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A TRIP TO THE CONTINENT.

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A TRIP TO THE CONTINENT. [BY H. HARWOOD, CARNARVON.] GENOA, 30th September, 1889. Many years having elapsed since I had a real out and out holiday, I made up my mind that as scon as certain long pending business arrange- ments were finally settled, I would devote at least six weeks to a pleasure trip through some portions of Europe. My holiday did not come as sooe as I expected, but come it did at last, and on the 23rd September last, I and my wife left the good old town of Carnarvon for London. At Rugby we were joined by my son Tom, and we arrived at Euston in good time that afternoon. Mr Seeling (Mersrs Gaze's representative, of whom I cannot speak too highly, he doing all he possibly could to maka our p^rtv comfortable) met us at Charing Cross next morning, whence we left by tiiat train via Folkestone for Boulogne. The trip across the channel was a rough one, and the majority of those on board suffered severely from sea sickness. We, fortunately, lad our sea-leas on, and came through the ordeal without much discomfort. The lauding at Boulogne was of course attended by the usual bustle and contusion, the French outdoor porters almost running away with bewildered voyageurs, luggage and all. We were under the protecting wing of Mr Seelig, and in peace. By and by we took our seats in the Paris express, and at seven o'clock p.m. were safely deposited in this gayest of all cities under heaven. After dinner, which was served immediately on our arrival, we had a quitt stroll through the Jardin de Paris. At a reasonably late hour retired to rest, which I may say none of us were unwilling to do as we had up to then travel a distan-ce of 539 miles. Oa the following day (Wednesday), we "did" the ex hibition, and the Eiffel Tower of course. Stayed at the Hotel da Burgundy. On Thursday, at 8.40 a.m., we left Paris for Marseilles, a distance of 536 miles, arriving at the latter place at mid- eight. Wd dined en route in the saloon, while travelling at the rate of 60 miles an hour. all the way I was struck with the number of women workirg in the fields, doing work that in our country would be done by men. Another curiosity in my eyes was the ploughing by teams of oxen. Marseilles station is very fine, being surrounded by groves of orange, lemon, and olive trees. We stayed the night at the Grand Hotel de Marseille. Next morning (Friday, September 27th), we pir- took of a good breakfast at eight o'clock, and afterwards enjoyed a carriage drive through the city, visiting the principal sights. The weather was exceedingly hot, and the sky of a beautiful blue colour. There is a very fine harbour here, with great number of large pleasure yachts. At 11 a.m., we left for Nice (150 miles), where we arrived at five p.m. The country through which we passed was most delightful—scores of miles of olive, fig, orange, and pepper trees, besides tomatoes and vines. We also passed the Island of Sr. Marguerite, where there is a fort, in which the Man in the Iron Mask was confined from 1686 to 1698, and where, in more recent times, Marsha 1 Bazaine was also a prisoner. Nice is a delightful place. We stayed at the Hotel de Beau-Rivag i. On Saturday, Sept. 28th, some of our party, self included, had a dip in the Mediterranean, and very pleasant we found it. Men and women bathe together in these places. Afterwards we had a stroll through the market, the Old City, where the streets are very narrow and old-tashioned. I noticed particularly during our ramble some very fine fat snails exposed for sale. They are exactly the same species as those we find in our gardens at home, and are considered a dainty dish here. But not any for me, thank you." We left Nice at three p.m. for Mentone, where we arrived ac five p.m. The country here again was very rich with luscious fruit of all kinds. Dined at the Grand Hotel du Louvre. After dinner we took train to the world-famous gambling city of Monte Carlo. All but two of our party were admitted into the gambling saloons. The two victims were my son Tom and Mr Griffin (Mr Griffin, I may here remark in passing, is the life and soul of our party). The reason for their non admittance into the gambling rooms could never be guessed, I am sure, by any one at Carnarvon. It was because they wore knickerbockers In the saloons a won- derful sight met our eyes. At the tables, of which there were a great number, were seated young girls and old women, as well as young and old men, with heaps of notes, gold, and silver in front of them, trying their luck. I have no hesitation in saying that thousands of pounds changed bands during the short time I stayed there. It was certainly far from a pleasant sight to see young females risking their all in such a man- ner. We returned to Mentone by train, and as two of our party wera, as I have J faid, refused admission to the saloons on Saturday, we drove over on Sunday and again visited the p'ace, where we found the same kind of thing going on, thousands and thousands of pounds changing hands. Gambling is carried on by means of cjrds, dice, roulette tables, in all the Cafes, both at Monte Carlo and Mentone. At the latter place a fair was held on Sunday, and open gaming was carried on in the streets. I also noticed number of women washing clothes in the river on that day. Before leaving Mentone I must not omit saying that the proprietor of the hotel at which we stayed here, Monsieur Wasmus, is one of the right sort, a regular John Bull, very obligicg, a jolly fellow, and keeps a rattling good brand of Scotch whiskey. This hotel is splendidly furnished, and the charges very reasonable. I can, with confidence, recom- mend anyone visiting the Sunny South to this hotel. 1 emitted to say that during our visit to Monte Carlo, one of our party tried his hand at the tables, and as he won a good stake, stood the whole party a champagne dinner on Saturday. I was victimised on Saturday, not at Monte Carlo, but at M"l1t! ne. As the weather was so very hot, I very fool shlyjfdrewjback the mosquito curtains of my bed, and was instantly assailed by a swarm of these troublesome flies, and nearly eaten up, my bald head especially being literally riddled, and even now I look as if I had recently suffered from small pox. Rain fell slightly at Mentone on Saturday—the first since the 1st June last. One of the fJLj :cts 'If interest passed during our journey was Renao, where, it will be remembered, the lit German Emperor Frederick was staying when he w,.s called to his father's deathbed, and also the C'nteau, near Mentone, where our G,aci,),;s Q,jPen recently stayed. 0 1 Mond y, 30th September, we left Mentone by express frain at 7.0 a.m. for Genoa. We crossed the »rofit er c bout ten minutes after starting, and were snooted to the annoyance of an examioa- tion of ur iuggage. This is a thorough nuisance to trav^iie• -specially ladies, who are obliged to I aubi-ri't. to h :v ng their boxes turned inside out by th^e generally rough officials. We passed through .al-.out (0 tunnels during this journey, and I n it; •><! ri the ne:ghbourhood of Alassio a regular •cloud of' v. bite butterflies, extending for miles, and 5..b'iDg nothing so much as a heavy fall of snow. W"H also noticed the disastrous effects .of the gr^it earthquakes which occurred some time ago. Hundreds of buildings are in rims, and t je peasants are now living in wooden huts. Saw the Alps. capped with snow. Country a very rich with fruit, not a yard of land 8t £ 'o« t., be wasted. We arrived in Genoa in time t) see s, of the sights before dinner. Next day (Tuesday, October 1st) we bad a good look round this famous city. It is a grand pov c. The Renaissance palaces are awfully grand, surpassing in numbers and magnificence those of ;a iy otSier city 1.0 Italy. In the palaces are some .0' the finest wovks of'Kubens and Vandjk*, who h..d !;Wr1 her;, also those of Titiar, Cerrigo, Mnvi.ll The Duke of Gdhera, who died in 1876, g nve 20.000,000, of francs lor improving the .ha?bour, ii!i condition that the Government gave the amount, and the work is now going °C. Th,v arc: ur is semi-circular in form. The street* 'If are paved with stones-no foot- pith or parapet, which tires pedestrians awfullj'. To.i V a (.Un'onidi has 18 splendid marble palaces, one ut'cei the other. The s «r.s of wealth here are' b;;v*:i the churches being simply grand. The C-pncliin Church of St. A'nunziatu is not quite r-isLci externally, but the interior is splendid, '.vitk gorgeous decorations. It is in the form of a xith a dome. the vault being I .supported by 12 fluted and inlaid columns, rhhiy gilded and painted. The old cathedral of San i Lorenzo is in the Gothic style. It has a tower 200 ft. high, the arches are of black and white marble. Ttiere is also some splendid bronze work and statuary. In the Sacrist they show the sacred catina (basin), a six-s,ded piece of glass brought from Cesarea in 1101, said to be that which held the paschal hmb at the Last Supper "f our Lord. We were here invited to view the sacred chapel of St. John the Baptist, but the ladies of our party were mysteriously prohibited, as women had been concerned in that S-tint's martyrdom. Heie also is Ruben's "Circumcision" and the same painter's Se Ignatius," also, Guida's "Assumptinn," all of which are really wonderful things. S inta Maria, or the Church of the Assumption, is one of the finest in Genoa, Regardless of the expense seems to be the i -l" 1 • _t.. .t 2.1 _l 1 r mono 01 tnose iu cuarg* vi iuese ClJurcues, lor there is simply no end to the profuse and gorgeous decorations with which they are bedecked. Yet at all the porches we found the halt, the lame, and the blind, piteously begging for alms. When we arrived here yesterday it was wet and cold, but to-day it is bright and warm. We drove to the Campo Santo, about 4 miles out. This cemetery is most eloquently illustrative of loving reverence and remembrance of the dead, and a perfect museum of beautiful monu- mental statuary. The burial ground is a system of sheltered colonnades, where the dead are deposited in sarcophagi. Only the poor people are buried in the earth outside the colonnades, wh ch are paved with mar- ble. The monuments and statuary are really beautiful, the drapery and lacework being beauti fully real. Mazzinl's tomb here, cost £ 5000. Here also are Moses and the prophets, Adam Here also are Moses and the prophets, Adam and Eve, etc (!). There is a famous echo in the chapel. Shops in Genoa are small, but well fur- nished. Houses are mostly six stories high, and the ladies are very handsome. The King's (or Red) Palace is magnificently furnished, and contains valuable work by IRubens, Vandyke, and others. We saw some Florentine tapestry of the 15th century. It was really beautiful work. The municipal buildings here are also grand, and con- tain, amongst other objects of interest which we were privileged to see, Paganin'is violin, authentic letters from Christopher Columbus to his son and to his bankers. There are a great many soldiers here, one barracks containing ten thousand men. Some of the soldiers look like brigands. Stayed at the Hotel de Londres. We left Genoa in the afternoon for Piza, arriving in tinae for the table d'hote at 7 p.m. Went through the vost marble quarries, which look like the great slate quarries at Llanberis, only the colour is vary different. We also passed some great Italian naval fortifica- tions. The distance from Genoa to Pisa is 100 miles, and there are 99 tunnels, so that during the jourrey we didn't see much of the country. What little I did see, though, was extremely pretty. We stayed here at The Grand Hotel, and spent the evening at the opera. I post this at Piza station, waiting for the lightning express to Rome, which is an hour and a half late. Will write you again from Rome. (To be continued)

THE CHURCH AND TITHES.

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