Weekly Mail

t: FEMININE FANCIES, FOIBLES, AND FASHIONS. o BY" MURIEL." tILL RIGHTS RESER VED. BODICES GROWING LONGER AND LONGER. English women still affeot the long basque bodice that, as a rule, is so detrimental to their appearance, making tall, angular women look like giraffes, and cutting off, in seeming, inches which short, stout women cannot afford to lose. This sounds anomalous, but it is not so in reality. It is strange how few women appear to choose what is individually Becoming. They hear that a certain style is to be worn, and none other suffices; or they read that a particular material is fashionable, and straightway—irrespective of all personal cOllsidera tions-rush to buy it. To be strictly fashionable at the expense of her lo ks is a mistake that no sensible woman ever makes. As a rule, Englishwomen's figures are less rounded than those of Frenchwomen. Some of the former are angola; others are dumpy. There seems to be no strictly national type as in Frai ce, where that which becomes one woman will, probably, suit the majority but suppose a distinctive characte- ristic, the possessor will bo sure to turn it to account, or otherwise adopt some style of dress that will by no means exaggerate what is in itself defective. The deep basque, whether of lace or other fabric, does not improve the plump, diminu- tive figure of the daughters of France.. So they eschew it, and wear a far more becoming corsage, cut with short, sharp po;-n- back and front, the edge being outlined with a narrow ribbon, which erds in a smart little bow and ends falling to the heels. The ribbon is brought to a point in front, when the bodice is finished in some other way. It is customary to tie a long length of ribbon velvet round the neck, the loops and ends n falling low on the back of the skirt. This is a revival of a long abandoned fashion. Indeed, it was contemporary with crinoline. Some dressmakers are cutting basque bodices to reach the knees, a fashion that would seem to point to the return of double skirts. The long three-quarter double-breasted coat I have spoken of earlier is an outcome of these elongated bodices, for nothing in its way looks worse than a jacket shorter than the basque of the bodice over which it is worn. UnlIke the long coat, which reaches to the feet and gives the appearance of height, the three-quarter garment absolutely dwarfs a short figure. J FEW CAN KEEP PACE WITH FASHION. The frequent changes of fashions from one style to another diametrically opposed to the former is a source of great anxiety to people of small means. It is almost impossible to keep within reason- able distance of Fashion, far less keep pace with her. So long, however, as she exhibits such erratic movements, it is advisable that women who have only a small dress allowance should refrain from buying anything that is'very expensive, with the idea that it will "Iast for years." This sounds like a contradiction of my usual teaching- that the best you can afford is generally the most economical in point of wear. My maxim still holds good in respect to most dress fabrics, for their style can be altered from dme to time to meet changes of fashion, allowing that the pattern is not an obtrusive one. As regards under-wear, furniture, and the like, the best quality is, undeniably, the best in most senses. But at present it is dangerous to pur- chase an expensive out-of-door garment that will not readily wear shabby, unless you are possessed of independent means or happen to be independent of other people's opinion. The first situation permits you to cast off the garment when it ceases to be fashionable; the other makes the wearer impervious to remark on the cut of her clothes. Apropos to this, a friend of mine last year bought a most expensive seal coat, at that time much larger in the skirt than most of its contemporaries. Had fashion dictated the curtailment of basques instead of their present elongation, my friend had been able to keep pace, but now she is really in a difficulty. The only way to lengthen a short coat is to add a basque, but if the material cannot bo matched, 1 hardly know what to advise by way of improvement, Unless it be a deep basque and sleeves of astrachan. Imitations of astrachan and Persian lamb are often good and unpretend- ing, being quite free from the meretricious appearance which is characteristic of imita- tions generally and furs in particular. A good seal coat is best left untouched. Its ,costlincss will enable it to pass muster, since few people can afford a seal coat every winter. LAST YEAR ASTRACHAN THIS YEAR FURs. Furs proper were little worn last year, it we except astrachan, on which there was a great run. At this season furs appear to have re-gained all their popularity. I am told that rough kinds are give precedence to smooth and shiny furs—sable, marten, seal, skunk, otter, beaver, and the like. Be this true or not it is certain that, rough furs, as a .rule, are most becoming. As is the case with dress materials, a shiny surfaoe seldom proves so becoming to the wearer as unfaced goods. WE TAKE No THOUGHT OF THE MORROW. Time was when the purchase of a set of furs, of a dress, or of an out-of-door garment was a matter of great weight and importance, necessitating much deliberation. The price given for articles that would last, and were meant to last, three generations or more pre- supposed coiisiderable"outlay and the exercise of careful discrimination, such as the wife of the immortal vicar displayed in her choice of a gown. Similar consideration fetters our choice now, but in a different way. At the close of the nineteenth century we do not hand down our wardrobes as heirlooms, nor even endow the next in succession with them. Fashion and the manufacturers forbid it, and we have no disposition to show ourselves pos- sessed only of a set of garments that none but an antiquary would set store Ly. Thus our taste inclines to less durable goods, necessitating frequent changes. Succeeding generations would go poorly clad, indeed might be driven to the primitive dress of coats of skins, did their clothing depend on present manufac- tures only. Some of us are delighted pos- sessors of chests of the most exquisite bro- cades, laces, &o., in which our g, eat-gi and- mothers lived, loved, suffered, and departed. They are practically priceless, for none like them are for sale-not often at least. At first eight we turn these relics over with a tender reverence, born of their association with the domestic history of our dead forbears. This quaint jewelled glove, for example, covered a now vanished hand that fan fluttered in it a snowy bosom rose and fell beneath the envious veil of this yellow lace scarf. This brocade, stiff enough to stand alone may have rustled softly as the youthful wearer tremulously responded to lover's caress, or by its harsher frou froto have proclaimed the dangerous proximity ol their mistress to the delinquents in buttery or still-room. This is by no means f reverential age, and, though the owner of th( oak coffer may at first grow sentimental ovei its contents and touch it with reverent bands, she, being of this generation, is surf o be practical and will not fail to tnrn the treasure to account for her personal adorn- ment, forgetting that she by so doing deprives those who will come after of the gratification she herself has experienced before she made a modern vest or other gar- ment out of the Pompadour brocade or cut the rare old cobweb-like lace to make a fashionable steinkirke, so that the little Philistine goes on her way rejoicing, it is a rare quality, that of self-denial exer- cised to benefit those who come after us, to forego positive and present pleasure, or other satisfaction, in order that our own descen- dants or the descendants of others may reap prospective advantage of any kind. Were probability certainty, then there would be less merit in the sacrifice; but it is deplorable to find such abnegation result in mischief and wrong-doing. Parents sometimes deny them- selves greatly in order to leave their children wealthy. Not infrequently they, like the prodigal in the Scriptures, when thay come into their inheritance, waste their substance with riotous living, are none the better, but rather the worse, for the generous impulses of their progenitors. FOR OCTOBER. I must cease to moralise, however, and give some particulars of prevailing modes. The weather prophets have come to the fore with a prediction of a month's fine, genial weather. May it be fulfilled. Some of our dressmakers seem to anticipate that October, at least, will be dry and warm for the time of the year, and have, consequently, made some rather smart gowns, which are worn out of doors with no other addition but a fur, or feather boa, or with a pelerine of fur, neither of which conceals the elegance with which the bodice is cut. Thus, for example, a navy serge dress, with skirt cut with one seam, gored so much that all fullness is taken from the waist, though there is considerable amplitude at the hem, and the short train rests a few inches on the ground. There is an improvement in the make of skirts or rather of skirt bands. The method will prevent that unseemly division so frequently apparent when bodices or jerseys are detached. The waistband, though meant to conceal the division, rarely succeeds in doing so. The better way is to put the skirt into a band 2in. in width, the fastenings being on u either side and none behind. AN IMPROVEMENT IN POCKETS. The slits at the sides must not come too forward, and to prevent gaping should be neatly buttoned under a narrow flap, or the apertures may be used for pocket holes, and one of the difficulties attending modern fashion be removed, for pockets in the posi- tion described would be very accessible. The skirt band being fastened on either side, the upper waistband finds a secure foundation, and no unseemly gap is likely to appear when the blouse bodice is put on and the ordinary pocket hole is existent. Mrs. Willard, wife of the well-known actor, introduced the improvement, I believe. To return to the description of the serge gown, I have to tell that it is made with the front shaped exactly like a gentleman's waistcoat, only cut rather longer. This is serge, the back and sleeves are of blue surah, and the former is drawn in at the waist by means of ribbons attached to steel buckles, in close resemblance to the means supplied by tailors to tighten or loosen a man's vest at the waist. It is a curious oonceit, but, being novel, will probably enjoy a certain temporary popularity. BRACED BLOUSES. Many blouses are made with Swiss oorslets and bretelles (braces) fastened on the shoulders with tiny buckles. IT WAS NOT ALWAYS THUS. Strong contrasts of colour are likely to prevail, and many new shades are singularly akin to such as were termed crude" when the aesthetic oraze for pale, indefinite tones com- menced. Colours seen in combination just now are somewhat startling—blue and yel- lowish brown, green and brown, red and brown, and so ou. BORDERS DY THE YARD. The tendency to confine trimmings to the extreme edge of the skirt is strengthened by the introduction of galen and appliques espe- cially designed for the purpose. Messrs. Petcy Robinson and Co. have some remarkably pretty borders of varied characters. AFTER THE UMBRELLA. The H umbrella," so-called, is another fashionable skirt. Three yards and a half of very wide material is sufficient to cut one. One yard and a half extra is required for the jacket or coat. In short, six yards of double- width cloth will make any of the fashionable gowns. THE LAZY WITX NOT I?ELISH THE CHANGE. Though rather early in the autumn, devotees of Terpsichore are anxious to attend her rites, and not a few small and early dances have already been given in town. There is always a certain satisfaction in being the first to provide a popular entertainment, and it is sure to be doubly welcome to the lovers of dancing who have bad little lately of this favourite exercise. The languid motion which is all that is possible in aense^- crowded rooms in warm weather is not to be called dancing, and here, par parenthesc, let me add that more vigorous movements and a certain attention given to steps are re-placing the drowsy, indifferent, and languid per- formance which was only an apology for dancing. THE EMPIRE STYLE FOR THE YOUNG. Young girls look very well in the Empire style. That means a very short, full, round- waisted bodice, with a soft silk sash tied round the figure, terminating in a butterfly bow and long ends at the back. Of couise, such a style is only becoming to girls in their first youth. A dress of this kind might be made in pink silk, veiled in embroidered silk muslin faintly tinged with pink. SILK UNDERSKIRTS. I observe that silk underskirts with net or mousseline overskirts are likely to be popular. To JUDGE BY APPEARANCES. There is a pleasing simple elegance about a dress of Indian cashmere made in the Empire fashion, and trimmed with gold fringe and beetles' wings. So far as it is impossible to jud^e from present appearance it is likely that ball dresses will bo chiefly made of silk, brocade, and other si ken fabrics. CHARMING. Quite young girls wear figured silks. A pretty toilet for evening wear was of white silk sprigged with red flowers, made with bodice and paniers of red sIlk to match the I flowers. A oharming dress and quite Watteau-like," was the universal opinion passed on it. A dress of white silk made ) with a bodioe of white velvet brocade, with loose fronts opening over a full vest of canary colour silk, was a very charming quiet dinner [ dress, and could be worn at theatre or conoert. There is much economy in these silk gowns, for though the outlay at first may exoeed that were net, tulle, and similar textiles purchased, r it is certain that silk wears three tiwes as b long as those flimsy stuffs, and is convertible j to many uses and in many ways after its first ofreshness is lost, One evening's wear M sufficient to ruin completely muslin, net, and! tulle, should there be no foundation of silk. WHEN WELL DONE THE EFFECT IS ADMIRABLE. Not a few young married ladies prefer velvet for their dinner gowns. Some are handsomely trimmed with jewelled bands. Corslets are embroidered with imitation gems wrought in with gold or silver thread, and there are other and like jewelled effeots which light up admirably at night, and, if judiciously selected, have none of the meretricious effect whioh bad taste displayed in excess of decoration and ill-chosen colours must inevitably produce. I remember seeing a large picture of Macarts—I think it was a group of Venetian dames dressed in velvet robes, gorgeous with jewelled embroidery. I wish that it were possible to describe the effect. At this distance of time I will not attempt it but I almost think the embroiderers employed in "home art work" supply lengths of jewelled galon, both wide and narrow, by way of patterns, so that copyists could carry on the design with happier resultagiihan are usually obtained at present. It has been said, with some justice, that amateur embroiderers select gems too large and too bright, and that they group their colours badly. I consider that jewelled embroidery might be made an artistic feature of evening dress, but I confess I have no desire to see it become so until workers in this class of embroidery learn that excess of colour does not necessarily mean beauty. Some of the best stained windows in our places of worship might be studied with ad- vantage in relation to the disposal and arrange- ment of colours. ANOTHER REVIVAL. Writing of evening dresses, I have to chronicle the fact that long discarded beithes are to be worn again, not only to outline low- necked dresses, but to trim the shoulders of high fitted bodices. SLEEVES CHANGE TOO. For morning costumes sleeves are wide and full to the elbow. The long cuff or lower half is tight and usually of velvet; it opens up to the elbow and is buttoned with very small silk buttons. HORTICULTURAL. I may remind my readers that if they wish hyacinths to flower at Christmas now is the time to pot I he bulbs or otherwise to place them in glasses, as may be. The water should barely touoh the bulb. Whether planted in earth, mould, or water, the hyacinths should be kept in a oool, dry place and in the dark for at least six weeks before being brought into the light, else the leaves may spring into luxuriance before the roots are duly established. To avoid disappoint- ment procure your bulbs from a trustworthy florist, and to ensure a succession of flowers the bulbs should be planted in order to meet that requirement. As the hyacinth blossom lasts about a fortnight the inference is obvious. Few lovers of the indoor plants that blossom in perfection in winter without the artificial heat of a greenhouse remember that laurus- tinus is a most generous giver. The shrub should be early placed in tubs or large pots, and its orop of purely white, sweet-scented flowers will more than re-pay any trouble bestowed. The aralia is a very handsome foliage plant, but a flowering one is always acceptable, and especially so when flowers are rare, PLANTS RAISED WHILE You WAIT. Last week I mentioned a sort of magic de- velopment of salad seeds, and, by a strange coincidence, soon afterwards I came across the following description in the (i Year Book of Faots" of flowers forced into bloom in much the same miraculous manner "A group of geraniums and arose tree were planted in two rather deep boxe, of garden mould previously prepared with some chemical manure, afterwards b .jng covered with gla.5 shades. Mr. Herbert pioc eded to pour over the roots from a imiall watering-pot a chemical mixture which ciuscd great heat, as shown by an intense steam of vapour rising and evolved within the shades. Thi, was nllowed to some extent to escape through a ventilating hole at the top, which at fitst was kept closed. The effect upon the geraniums was almost, instantaneous, the buds bursting in less than six minutes, the plants being in full bloom in ten minutes, and the blooms were gathered and distributed by the exhibitor to ladies present." To day, when we hear so much about Mahat- mas and miracles, we may surely believe what has been so confidently asserted, that all such apparently occult demonstrations are reducible to causes very easily accounted for. Possibly the great Indian trick of raising a date palm just under the nose-a trick that a very quick- witted friend of mine, lately returned from India, bore witness to and believed in—is accomplished by some such means as 1 describe above. A friend who looks over my shoulder relates, apropos to the matter,that she recently read an account of a photograph taken under the circumstances. With his own eyes the artist saw the palm raised by the conjuror, but the photograph, while faithfully re-pro- ducing all the other features of the scene, showed no sign of the miraculous growth. The idea started is that the spectators were hypnotised—that under the influence of that power they imagined they saw what had no actual existence. To Correspondents. "MARJORIE S.Fur afternoon tea you might use Montpelier butter as a variation, but, of cour*f, not banishing bread and butter of ordinary kind. Pick the leaves of a quantity of watercress, mince its finely as possible and dry in a cloth, then mince still uiore finely; knead withns much good fresh butter as the mince will ttlke up, adding a little salt; spread oil bread as usual, and garnish ilie slices with spay" of watercress. For ea'ing with cheese work the mixture into b d!s the size (,f blidi' eggs, and add salt, and pepper to taste. Chopped celery may be substituted for the cress. "DORA."—Mushroom scallops are made as fol- lows :-l'ake good mushrooms peel and soak them in lemon juice. Have ready a while sauce, into which half a lemon has been strained; add an eggspoonful of mushroom ketchup. Take the soaked mushrooms and stew them very gently in the sauce; when tender, put into scallop shells; cover with bread crumbs, and p ace small pieces of butter at the top biown with a red hot salamander or hot kitchen shovel. Another savoury is mushroom omelet. The mushrooms are minced and mixed with the egg, and fried in the usual way. Or they can he made into a puree, with butter, pepper, salt, a little milk, and a drain of mushroom ketchup; a pinch of flour may be stirred in to give consistence. When the omelet is ready insert the mixture between the folds. An omelet pan is almost indispensable. It must never be used for other purposei, and should rarely be cleaned, but just wipedjwith a drv cloth after use, and set carefully aside wrapped in paper to keep from dust.