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GOSSIP ON DRESS.

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GOSSIP ON DRESS. Sov-m of the dresses worn at a garticE^arly smart at home this woefe (observes a fasfejon writer in the London Globe) were good illustrations of the pre- vailing fashions. A tall and handsome woman wore white cloth, edged with a narrow band of black fox, and provided with a deep collar and cuffs of similar fur. The small bonnet was composed of a few folds of white cloth, similar to that of which the dress was made. Among several pretty grey costumes was one in which light grey cloth gave the idea of a second gown wore over one of dark grey velvet. The fronts, cctt out in semi-circles along the edge, met at the waist but diverged towards the shoulders, showing the grey velvet between. At the back, a similar line was followed. In the skirt the same idea was carried out. A long boa in feathers of the two shades of grey was worn with this. The little bonnet consisted of a fold or two of coral-pink velvet. Another grey dress opened over an under- skirt of black velvet, which showed at either side. The edges of the overskirt were bo-dered with chin- 1 cbilla of the thickest and softest sort. A dark blue silk dress was very richly embroidered in gold, and was accompanied by a small gold boanet. The hostess wore grey, braided with black. Yet another of her guests appealed ia grey, with a folded vest of shot red and grey silk, and the orthodox velvet sleeves. A very uncommon looking dress was in shot silk, woven in large sections, each of which dis- played a varied modification of the dominant colours of the whole composition. In one there was more red than blue, in another more blue than red, while in a third a bluish-grey prevailed, and in a fourth a warm amber asserted itself. This seems to be a new kind of silk, and more will probably be heard of it anon. THERE has lately been invented (writes a lady representative of the Fall Mall Gazette) a feather- weight wig. It has a fringe; the hair is short and is made up into small curls, and it entirely dispenses with the necessity of doing the hair. Novelists who write about the beginning of the present century always count it a virtue to their hero or heroine that he or she wore his or her hair instead of the usual powdered wig. Those writers who supply us with records of fashionable life nowadays would have a difficulty in confirming this detail; for you can't tell whether a fashionable woman is wearing her own hair or not, so cunningly are these costly wigs made. IT must not be supposed that women wear these wigs to guard against a jibe similar to that which was so fatal to those little boys who told the prophet to go up," and reminded him of his baldness. Nothing of the kind. Of course, a good many wigs-the majority of wigs probably-are worn to conceal defects but they are also largely worn by women who don't want the trouble of doing up their own hair. Why, at the big Drawing-room last year, my informant said, there were 30 of his wigs walking about. Of course a wig can be dressed on a block, and it is made so artfu ly on an elastic foundation that it fits too tightly for the difference between the false and the true to be discovered. Here," said the hair-dresser, "here is a wig I am making for an old lady with silver-grey hair. When she goes visiting to houses where she does not care to take her hair, she will take this with her; and she will have her hair dressed in two minutes." I ASKED what wa.s the best hair for wig-making. II French," was the answer. Only French hair is any use. Russian and Italian are no good for Englishwomen; they are both too coarse. For myself, as a German, I think that Englishwomen have poor hair but this I put down to their exces- sive meddling with it—too much brushing and comb- ing and washing—than to any natural defect." Here the wig-maker held up a bit of French hair that bad been bought off the head of a girl—perhaps a latter- day Fantine-in France by a travelling hair mer- chant, and said, I shouldn't like to say this had ever seen a brush." Coming to another topic, I asked what he found the average colour for wigs. Medium brown, undoubtedly. But I always try to persuade a woman for whom I am making a wig to have a colour that will match her own hair. This is the most natural, but sometimes it is the most impos- sible course. Sometimes a woman will have a wig about two shades lighter than her own hair for even- ing wear, but this is permissible. It is when a red- headed woman wants raven black tresses that the thing becomes nonsensical." Now about the fringe. Do you think the fringe is going out?" "No; there is not the slightest fear of that happening. The fringe is so fashionable that I have to keep 30 different patterns. Eng- lishwomen need a fringe-so many of them have high foreheads. It is only women with low foreheads who can afford to brush their hair severely back." MANY of the smartest new bonnets (remarks a correspondent of the Queen, writing on demi-saison millinery) are entirely black, and depend on jet for the enlivenment of their sombre hue. The most bizarre of these is composed of a large jet butterfly, its upper wings bent upward so as to form a crest, its lower ones downward, while in front the glitter- ing antennte quiver above a small bow of black velvet. Another charming little black bonnet is the Henri III., an almost exact copy of the small puffed capotes worn by the Valois King and his mignons, encircled by a coronet of jet, and with a miniature panache of black ostrich feathers set at the side. More generally becoming to English faces, however, is the daintiest of little close bonnets made of jet open work, resembling in form a sixteenth century coif, and with three or four knots of yellow cowslips set here and there, tied with tiny black velvet bows. Another coif bonnet of somewhat similar shape, deli- cately pointed over the brow, is of grey cloth mixed with black velvet and oxydised silver galon. ASTRAXAN is much used this year in both bonnets and hats, with excellent effect, as witness a little bonnet composed simply of two square side wings of Astrakan, and a large puff of emerald-green velvet between them. Another bonnet, entirely in black, has a close coif brim of astrakan, with a diadem of square cut jet and an open crown formed of a twist of black velvet, with a feather aigrette set at one side. THESE open crowns I What will not women venture at the bidding of fashion, even though neuralgia and rheumatism be the penalty to be paid. Does the favour these open crowns are received with show that women Fear no more the heat o' the sun, Nor the furious winter's rages," because false hair is once again worn, and so their pretty polls are once more protected without the need of cosy head-gear ? Whatever be the reason, it is certain that there are almost as many crownless bon- nets to be seen now as there were in the hottest days of July. Conspicuous among these is a marvellous garland, rather than bonnet, composed of a narrow 'fillet of green velvet, a bunch of violets and pale vio- let baby ribbon, and at the back a tangle of violets and their youngest, freshest, greenest leaves. Less vernal than this is a flat toque composed of three horseshoe ftllets of twisted olive and fawn velvet, with a great bunch of red and cream chrysanthe- mums fastening them together at the back. I VIOLETS are the flower in the newest bonnets, and the Bonapartist blossom is shown to advantage in a bonnet also composed of horseshoe fillets, a wreath of Russian violets being set between two twists of brown velvet, all of which are tied together at the back with an upstanding bow of the velvet; while a tiny Marie Stuart bonnet of reseda-green chenille has the brim wreathed with Parma violets, and no other ornament save a small reseda aigrette and osprey in front. PERHAPS the prettiest bonnet on view at one of the leading London bouses is a wonderful interlacement of green velvet and black jet openwork, with a bow of narrow green velvet, a frou-frou of black lace in front, and a black swallow perched on one side as though arrested on its southward flight. These black swallows-poor Procne plunged into deeper mourn- ing for Itys than nature intended--are seen on many of the wide-brimmed black felt hats, which are bor- dered with Astrakan, and are so curiously and vari- ously crumpled and twisted that I despair of attempt- ing to describe the odd but picturesque and becoming forms into which deftest fingers have bent and fastened them. PERHAPS quaintoess reaches its furthest point in an adaptation of a college cap, the cap itself being made of Astrakan, and the black velvet trencher bent up and down, backward and forward. Stili, it is only after the most careful scrutiny that one dis- covert tie original academic ah'p;» thul ciev-ny transformed, the eye being further deceived by the cluster of black cocks' wings, arranged coquettishly under tSae brim on one side. OTHER attractive hats there are in plenty, but space will not allow me to do more than mention a little pork-pie or Spanish -he,, in black Astrakan, trimmed with small pompons of the same, which would be an ideal hat for winter travelling or rough weather. A smart black felt tricorn, with a flight of white birds perched thereon; and a grey felt, with a much-crumpled brim, up bent round the crown, which is entirely hidden by a profusion of tiny black ostrich plumes.

, :WILLS AND BEQUESTS.

LIGHT GOLD COINS.

GARDENING FOR THE WEEK. ---

DEATH OF THE SULTAN OF i ZANZIBAR.…

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MRS. GRUNDY.

A TEACUP STORM.

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DELAGOA BAY.

A CRY FROM SIBERIA. ''

SELF-AIDED EMIGRATION. --

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