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IN BILLINGSGATE MARKET. .…

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IN BILLINGSGATE MARKET. I) — LONDON'S GREAT FISH EMPORIUM. At ElRLY MORN IN THIS FAMOUS HESORT OF SLANG AND STRONG ODOURS—NEARLY Two CENTURIES OLD--THE COSTERS AND THE IMMENSE TRADE THEY Do IN A FEW HOURS. Half-past four o'clock in the tnornfng, and ferey dawn is slowly breaking over London town. It is a sultry summer morning. The air is heavy with the odour of fish. There kreorowds in the streets near Billingsgate, a bewildering assortment of wagons, and hurri- cane of voices that would deafen the people who were on the tower of Babel one day, now famous in history. Horses appear to be entangled in shafts and shafts in wheels, whila the cries, the shouts, the objurgations make a confused and deafening uproar. t The clock strikes fire and the market opens. In a moment the place swarms with life. The vessels are there hauled up in tiers in the river, laden with silvery cargoes the porters are there running to and fro between the ships and the market; the railway vans are there packed with fish brought from the railway stations; the salesmen are there at their stands or benches, and the buyers are there ready to buy and pay. r- Little business, however, is transacted until about six o'clock, the intervening hour being occupied chiefly in the transference of the consignments of fish from the vessels to the market, and putting the different stalls ship- shape for the business that will shortly begin. U It is nearly two centuries ago since Billings- gate was established. Since then it baa achieved and maintained a world-wide noto- riety, principally through the bad language popularly supposed to be used by the fre- qaenters thereof, 11 Billingsgate, however, is now a myth, whatever it may have been in the days gone by. When paying a visit to Billingsgate Market it is advisable to don an old suit of clothing. Not only does the market itself reek of fish, but so do all the lanes and streets approaching it. At early morn these thoroughfares are crowded with fish-carts for a distance of several hundred yards from Lower Thames-street. There is a never-ending stream of porters, each with a large box of fish curiously balanced on hia head. It is always best to give them the wall, for your Billingsgate aristocrat is no respecter of persons. The market is a long, low edifice, built on pillars, with a number of offices over the ground floor. On the roof is a figure of Britannia, pluckily holding on to that ever- lasting trident. The sculptor who carved the figure had no sense of the fitness of things, otherwise he would have made the statue holding her nose with her fingers. The smell of fish is strong down below, but what must it be up there? With some difficulty we cross the road, which is ankle deep in filth. This stalwart fellow, climbing the ribbed planks that lead from the river to the market, and bearing on his head two heavy baskets of fish, is a typical market man. He wears a tarpaulin hat, fitting close to his akull, something like a sou-wester," and boasting a brim of about 9in. in width at the rear and which curls up at the edge to catch and retain the moisture which would other- wise flow down his back from his dripping burden. The outer garment is a greyish- white hybrid surtout, half jaoket, half. smock-frock, reaching almost to the knee it is open at the breast, and displays a voluminous handkerchief tied in a double knot, the ends fluttering jauntily in the breeze. His trousers are of any material you like to imagine, as imagination alone can penetrate the coating of mud, which is all that is visible to the eye. While we have been describing his appearance he has vanished and a dozen more of precisely the same mould and similarly burdened have followed him. On they come in a continuous stream, rising out of the darkness below with startling regu- larity. These men bear themselves with an air of high official dignity, and not without reason, for they are the "fellowship "porters, who have the sole privilege of landing the fish from the vessels. They are the veritable Cary- tides of the commerce of Billingsgate. It is now nearly six o'clock and the trade is at its height. A continous tide of popu- lation flows in and out of the market, where the sharp shot of a thousand chattering tongues drums upon the ear in an uninter- rupted volley. There is, however, no dis- orderly riot or quarrelling. The sales are so istonishingly rapid as to be scarcely compre- hensive to a stranger. Many lots are sold upon the head of the porter, who yet hardly waits a minute in the throng before he dasbee down his burden and is off. Under the flaring gaslights and ranged the salesmen's desks. Behind each of these stands the partner or head assistant and the auctioneer proper, who stands where the boxes of fish are deposited by the porters. The auctioneers are waited upon by a form man-a very useful fellow if he knows his business well. This functionary takes oharge of each box as it arrives, and sees to its delivery when sold. The market-place is covered with the stalls of the salesmen, the tenants of the market, which are divided by narrow alleys that serve to condense the flood of porters more than ever, and makes it impossible to avoid an occasional collision. In one corner a man is conducting an auction in a hoarae greasy voice, aDd a hoarse greasy thunder rises up from the reeking crowd of purchasers, each time a tempting lot is put up. The crowd around his stand, which is composed of a couple of ricketty boxes, consists of about two hundred retail dealers, all elbowing and fighting and hustling to get near him, and all bawling as if to lift the roof off. Many of them abso- lutely drip with dishy water. They are literally as oily and are packed a good deal more closely than sardines in a tin. About seven :o'clock a new class of buyers come crowding in, and the whole place is so filled with them that one has to fight his way at every step. You find yourself all of a sudden surrounded by a very undisciplined regiment of London it oosters"-an extensive and peculiar class indigenous to the soil. They have already heard that this morning the market is well supplied with fish, and they have flooked by hundred with their barrows baskets, hand-oarta, and donkey carts in the hope of making a good day's work over half a lot of soles. The lot is generally a couple of baskets. 5„ What for this lot. sayg -6oe salesman. Eight shillings for one," bawls a coster lad. > » ol Eight and six, eight and nine, nine shil- lings; nine and two, nine and six, nine and ten, ten bob," from half a dosen tones in in. stant succession. "Say a sov the two," say the salesman. "I'll take the other," roars a coster, waiting for a chance. ,r „ Sold," explodes the auctioneer. Money and he holds ont his hand. The money is paid instantert and off goes the purchaser to clean the fish preparatory to cry, them >bout the town for the rest of the day. Thus the hoars go by, At ten o'clook the market is quiet. No one would imagine that 500 tons of fish had been sold there aud carted away in less than five hours. But such is the case, and to-day is only a fair sample of every day in the week. As we stroll out of the market, between pyramids of lobsters sold by the dozen or score, and of mighty crabs yet unslain in their baskets, comfortably packed with seaweed; past huge moudds of shrimps, sacks of oysters, and unknown quantities of mussels and whelks, I marvel at the myriad mouthed city that can daily stow any such colossal quantities of the products of the briny deep. I am getting meditative again, and I ask myself how and where this fishy infinity will be cooked and eaten. Cooked ? What is this delicious fragrance that steals up the nostrils and makes one forget in a moment the pungent and semi-putrid odours around one and the clamour of a thousand thirsty throats P It is indeed the smell of cooked fish-and excel- lently cooked too. For here, at the extremity of the market, are we not at the very doors of the Three Tuns, famous for its fish dinners and its good cheer ? Let us go in

The Pressed Rose. .

[No title]

A REFUGEE'S STORY. e

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