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I GfARDEff GOSSIP, I I (Prom. the u Gardener.") I Bedding Plant§.A11 plants that have becoana established in pots anod boxes should be at once removed te cold frames. The shade in fruit houses will become more and more dense each ,and under such conditions the plants quickly become drawn and leggy. Plants recently potted off from boxes may have a week or ten days in a warm, moist house to assist in rooting, when they should immediately be removed to cold frames, keeping the latter close for a few days. Flower Beds.—A light hoeimg of the surface of beds containing bulbs and flowering plants will work wonders in helping growth and pro- moting tidiness. Carefully clear the edges of the beds with the Dutch hoe, and throw the soil removed into the centre. All plants, such as c, bulbs, which require staking should receive at- tention before the hoeing is done. Hotbeds.—If enough dung is at hand to make a hotbed, even a slight one, utilise it thus by all means. Failing a greenhouse, this will be found an excellent aid of raising Asters, Stocks, Zin- nias, Phlox Drummondii, Golden Feather, and similar half hardy aninualv. The bed should be covered with 6 inches of soil, the seeds sown in boxes, and covered with a frame and glass light. Give air in quantity once the seedlings are well up, and transplant them when they have made two pairs of leaves. Watering Wall Trees.—To the unitiatsd it may sound somewhat ridiculous to talk of watering the roots of wall fruit trees now, but neverthe- less it will almost invariably do good and, never harm. We have not had too much water during the last twelve months, and it is the soil at the foot of brick walls that becomes dry the quickest; the bricks themselves want a share apart from the fact that unless the rain is driving directly on to the face of the wall its ha,se is always protected. Therefore, I should say water heavily now, and as frequently after- wards as may be desirable and can be made con- venient. There must be no half measures if lasting good is to be the result, so let, the appli- cation be anything from 4 to 6 gallons for every square yard of surface, covered. If the trees re- quire feeding, follow some hours after the clear water with weak liquid manure. < Anemone Ap,e,n,nina.-Windflowers are plentiful now, and for some time yet we shall be enjoying them as they carpet the ground or rise a little above the level of their sisters. Yet there are few more deserving of the attention of readers than this little plant from the Apennines. It is more satisfactory than the earlier A. blatnda, ac- commodating itself more readily to varying con- ditions of soil and isihade while, no mean con- sideration, it is much cheaper to purchase in quantity. It is glorious when seen, as the writer knows it in some gardens, by the thousand in the grass; but it is as lavish of its beauty to the owner of a small garden when in the border or on the rockery—even one good plant gives its pretty leaves and its numerous bonny light blue, many petalled flowers. It likes some amount of shade, and one has it both in dry soil and in that which is fairly moist. Honeysuckle Grown in Bush Form.—The com- mon Honeysuckle is a very sweet plant; its stems and branches are naturally stiff when the plant has been severely cut back. Some time ago I saw several specimens grown as bushes, and they looked remarkably strong and gave every promise of bearing plenty of flowers. We generally associate the Honeysuckle with walls, fences, and pillars but if a few plants are put out in. the open beds and duly pruned back, they soon become self-supporting, and are quite a success in beds as dot plants or as the sole occu- pants of beds. When the plants are first put out they should be trained to stakes these sup- ports may be removed in two years' time. » Cannas.—The tall Cannas are fit for using as centre specimens in small beds, for massing in the middle of large- one, and for handsome pot plants. Dwarf Cannas may be employed in window boxes; for bed' filling alternately with a plant of trailing habit, such as. the Verbena or Ivy-leaved Geranium, they look exceptionally handsome: needless to say that the latter plants should be either scarlet or white flowered', not pink. These Cannas are very suitable also for planting in garden urns and baskets. C. variegata, which has green leaves splashed and streaked with red and yellow, and a margin of carmine, has scarlet blossoms, and is a truly gorgeous subject for the beds or greenhouse. So simple IS Canna culture- that it should be made a feature of most gardeners' spring work. The seeds should be soaked for twenty-four hours in tepid water, and then a small portion of the hard skins of them may be scraped, away with a knife; great care must be taken not to injure the germ within. The compost should be kept constantly moist, and if the temperature of the green- house is as high as 75 degrees progress will be rapid. < Shirley Poppies.—The flowers of Poppies are short-lived, but they are plentifully produced and are so charming that one cannot forego the pleasure of growing some every year. I like them associated with Mignonette; the blossoms are borne on long, stout stalks well above the Mignonette, and viewed from a distance, they look like so many butterflies hovering above the sweet-scented flower named. The seeds of the Mignonette and the Poppies should be sc.wn broadcast, both thinly, then greater success will follow, as the Mignonette plants will branch out freely, and the Poppies give a better effect when in a, scattered condition. Any ordinary garden soil will do if it is free from wireworms. American Aloes.—These well known orna- mental plants were much in evidence last year, the rather dry season experienced being favour- able for them. It is curious to note what a large number of suckers are to be found at the base of a large plant at the close of the season. When established1 in small pots these make pretty window plants for south positions. The massive specimens of American Aloes to be seen in many of the public parks often give quite a tropical appearance. to the terrace or principal beds. Destroying. Refuse.—Often town gardeners are at a. loss as to the best means of dealing with the stalks, leaves, and other refuse that have accumulated, in the small front garden. Generally speaking, on account of the con- fined area, natural decomposition takes place very slowly indeed, and) is of small value to ,the soil. The best plan is to hand the lot over to the sanitary authorities for destruction. In one instance where an attempt was made to burn all the refuse collected, the result was most unpleasant for the owner atd also his neighbours. ° Manure for Flower Bedis.-All flower borders should be neat after the work of bedding out is finished; but I fail to understand how they can be when strawy manure is used late in the winter season. Just lately I have observed the manner in which flower beds have ibeen manured, and feel sure that the, straw will give much trouble later, when it and the soil are disturbed to put in the plants. In light, sandy ground, well decayed manure should be dug in in such a manner that the roots of the pla,nts will come into contact with it soon after they are planted, as it is advisable to keep the nourishing food ne,a,r the surface on account of its goodness being quickly washed down through the porous soil beyond the reach of the roots. There are thousands of flower beds only manured just prior to the placing out of the plants, and in sandy soil this is the correct thing to do. But when dealing with clayey land, I like to dig in some littery manure in the autumn, and again a. light dressing of decayed dung in the spring. The grounct. should be made fairly firm, and the heavy soil left as dug, with the exception of being broken up and raked on the surface. The former ought to be planted while moist after rain, and the latter when it is fairly dry. --Goo. Garmes,






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