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GARDENING GOSSIP. I Continue to plant Endive as ground becomes vacant. The material obtained may not be large, but where a regular supply of salad must be maintained it will be found useful. Look over the quarters of cauliflower and broccoli daily, covering any heads needing pro- tection with the leaves this not only wards off slight frost, but helps to prevent the "flower" from being a bad colour. Clear off as rapidly as possible old rows of peas. Get manure on to the vacant ground, and dig or trench in as opportunity offers. Tie up late celery as time can be spared, but do not hurry the earthing process. The begin- z, ning of November will be soon enough for this 0 work to be finished with the latest rows. Look over Broccolis that are coming into use, and protect by turning down the leaves, or place some of them head downwards on a rafter in a cool shed. Onions which have been stored should be occa- sionally looked over, as some are sure to decay and the mischief may spread to the bulk. Place a few primulas and cinerarias into a little extra warmth to induce early flowering, as, apart from chrysanthemums, there will be no great supply of flowers just now. In forcing bulbs at this season gentle bottom heat is almost a necessity, especially when the flowers are required for a certain date. It will be best to use retarded crowns of Lilies of the Valley for present forcing. The ordinary crowns will not be found so reliable for a week or two longer. 0 A slight shade over the expanded blooms of chrysanthemums will be found of benefit during brief spells of bright sunshine. Tomatoes for winter fruiting will need careful treatment to keep them healthily growing and cropping at this season. Never stint fuel for winter cucumbers. Low temperatures are at the bottom of most of the failures in growing them. Where it is intended to plant fruit trees, the land should have a thorough preparation. If really poor, some good manure will be needed. Do not plant in undrained ground, as this can only result in sappy, unfruitful growth. In many districts dahlias are as a rule safe in the ground during winter if covered with some protecting material, but it is safer to take up the tubers and store them in a frostproof room or cellar. Attend to ivy and other creepers on walls, as sometimes when a small portion gets loose the 1 wind will obtain a hold and tear down great breadths. Remove dead blossoms from beds and borders and gather up leaves. A littery appearance quickly prevails in flower gardens at this season unless great attention is given. Keep a bright look out now for slugs and other zll insects in the cool orchid house, especially about Odontoglossum grande, the flower spikes of which are especially acceptable to these pests. Rooted cuttings of the less hardy bedding plants, still in frames, should now be transferred to some light structure, where artificial heat is available when required. Geraniums rooted in boxes and still in the open must also be housed, previous to which remove all dead and decaying leaves. Strawberries.—Cut down the crop of weeds which has sprung up between the rows of plants recently inserted. It is necessary at this season to rake off the thickest of the weeds. Applying Liquid Manure.—Very old fruit trees which need assistance are much benefited at this season by copious supplies of liquid manure poured over the roots as far as they extend. Crop Clearing.—Many crops fail to be cleared off the ground about this time. A thorough clear- ance should be effected, the practice of leaving pea haulm, cauliflower stalks, etc., till a more convenient time being a distinctly bad one. As a means of harbouring vermin of many kinds, if for no other cogent reason, its condemnation would be complete. Potatoes.—Lift what remains of this crop, and if not already done select perfect tubers of the late sorts for seed. No better means of preser- vation is to be found than the old one of "pit- ting" use plenty of straw as a protection against hard frost. Seakale.—For early cutting it is necessary to wait till a nip of frost. Some people allow the roots to lie a few days previous to putting them in to force. This vegetable requires a high tem- perature, and comes on rapidly in a propagating pit. Lettuces.—Lettuces of a usable size should be kept dry by covering them with frames. Late Cuttings.—There is no time better than the present for inserting, in cold frames, cut- tings of such popular plants as Violas, Pansies, Calceolarias, Pentstemons, and others of a like nature. The bottom of the interna] beds should be composed of some such porous material as coal cinders crushed down hard. The soil srper- imposed thereon need not exceed 4 inches in depth. When the cuttings have all been inserted and the soil has been moistened, close down the lights for the winter. Hardy Plant Arrai-igements. -This is the best time of the year to renew beds and borders com- posed altogether or mainly of hardy plants. Much of the dowdy appearance of the latter, es- pecially in autumn, is attributable to being too long on the ground, and to the latter requiring cultivation. Manure is of much value as an aid to the production of bright flowers, but the material when applied should be in a decayed condition, and should be thoroughly incorporated with the soil. Lifting Late Bulbs.—As opportunity presents itself Gladioli should be lifted, and if the corma can be left on the surface of the soil for a few days they will be much improved. Begonia tubers keep best when a little soil is preserved round them. Montbretias, when lifted annually, should be at once transferred to a deep bed of soil in a cold frame. On no account should they be dried off- Tulips of all sorts may be planted as soon as possible, and a bulb planting generally should p be brought to a conclusion. Where mice abound, Crocuses should be planted 8 to 10 inches deep. This is a sure means of circumventing these mis- chievous quadrupeds. Planting Fruit Trees.—The holes for the recep- tion of the trees should be wide and shallow, to allow space for spreading out the roots. Prune injured roots smoothly and cover the fibres with fine soil. Primroses.—Generally speaking (says M. Hawthorne in "The Gardener") all hardy prim- roses, members of the order Primulacese, are best raised under glass, as the seeds may take a long while to germinate, and a covering preserves them from disturbance. There is not the slightest reason, however, why the humblest gardener should not grow them from seed; hand frames are cheap enough to be bought by anyone, bell- glasses will do equally well, while I know few better ways of protecting seeds out of doors than by placing bricks in a square around them (one brick high is sufficient) and laying sheets of glass flat upon these. A charmingly tidy, useful little frame is thus obtained. Sow the seeds in good r soil on a north border, then cover as advised. The evaporation from the wet ground will make drops on the glass and keep the spot sufficiently The evaporation from the wet ground will make drops on the glass and keep the spot sufficiently moist for some time then a watering must be given, for the soil should never be allowed to dry up- • up.

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