County Observer and Monmouthshire Central Advertiser Abergavenny and Raglan Herald Usk and Pontypool Messenger and Chepstow Argus

THE MOUSTACHE IN THE FIFTIES "Back in 1850," remarks a writer in the New Orleans Times-Democrat, a moustache was regarded with great suspicion all through the Mississippi Valley. It was supposed to be a mark of either a military swashbuckler or a gambler, and a gentle- man, particularly if he wanted to go into society, shaved smooth. In fact, a thatched upper lip eventually became such a well-recognised badge of the trade, that card-sharps who wanted to avoid sus- picion were forced to shave clean. One noted pro- fessional, who worked the big river boats, looked a great deal like a sanctimonious deacon when his moustache was removed, and he used to make a point of dressing in a long-tailed rusty black coat with a white cravat. Going up to Vicksburg one night, I was sitting in earshot when he attracted the attention of a group of gay young gentlemen, playing poker in the main saloon. He was seated by him- self reading a book, and was evidently unknown to the party. I'll bet that old rascal plays poker on the sly,' said one of the crowd. Ask him to join us,' said another as a joke, and the first speaker acted on the suggestion. The stranger was very reluctant at first, but finally said he calculated he wasn't too old to learn,' and took a hand. A couple of hours later he got off at a landing with every dollar in the crowd, remarking casually that he would now give his moustache a chance. On another occasion I was going up to Louisville on some important business and had been warned especially to look out for gamblers. We had the usual crowd of sharpers on board, but they were all shaved clean, and it chanced that among our passengers were a lot of army men fresh from the West, where moustaches were countenanced. Consequently, when we reach the old Gait, House, at Louisville, and I made some inquiries of friends, I was chagrined to find that all the people I had been fraternizing with were gamblers and all HH se I had been snubbing and avoiding were gentle- men." r -— ———'

LIEUT. COLONEL EUSTACE BEAUMONT BURNAB Y, who has been Common Crier and Sergeant- at-Arin s of the City of London since 1889, and previously for over three years City Marshal, has sent in his resignation to the Lord Mayor, having undertaken other duties. Colonel Burnaby served for 18 years in the Line Battalion of the Lincolnshire Regiment in India, and was afterwards second in command for seven years of the 4th Battalion of that Regiment. He received the Jubilee Medals in 1887 and 1897. His office- comtii only known as that of Macebenrer-is in the gift of the Court of Common Council. FIVE generations alive in one family is not a com- mon occurrence, but Mr. William Smith, late of Haswell, and now residing at Tursgale Colliery, can boast that he has lived to see ftu!o1 generations of his descendants. Mr. Smith, who is 89 years of age. ,has a daughter, Mrs. Slater, who aged is 66, living f at Haswell. Her daughter, Mrs. Brown, aged 14 who resides at Ryhope, is the mother of Mrs. Bur- ùaip, aged 22, who lives in the same village, and the latter is the mother of a six months' old baby, thus êrmpleting five generations. Mr. Smith has nint children, 49 grandchildren, 40 great-grandchildren, a..1d one great-great-grandehild. THE smallest conscript in France is being perpetu- ally ousted from his proud position by the discovery of a still smaller one, but this time it looks as if the record will be held for some time by M. Emile May, of Cunel, in the canton of Montfaucon, who recently commenced his period of military servioe. That young gentleman stands 3ft. 9 £ in. in his stock- ings, and weighs only 421b. He is in no way de- formed, and his mind is considerably more deve- loped than his person. Until his appearance, the smallest conscript in the French Army had measured 4ft. I'litt. in height, and scaled 641b.. a reoord which M. Mayot's proportions have altogethei put in the shade.

I THE COLORADO DETECTIVE. I Night was falling over a snow-covered landscape, dreary and bleak, as a horseman dismounted before the Albuquerque Hotel, at Mazitlan, a Colorado frontier town, and, entering the barroom of the place, Run,, himself into a chair near the stove, with that abandon to its pleasing warmth a long journey in- spires. Amid the babel of noise caused by the discussions of quarrelsome gamesters and maudlin inebriates, his coming in was unnoticed. There was little out of the common in his plain mountain garb at d bearded face to attract the attention of any one. He glanced quickly, searchingly, about the room. The smoke-clouded atmosphere failed to conceal a quiver of satisfaction and interest as his eyes rested on four men seated at a table near by-.so near that his shoulder almost brushed the back of cne, who sat on a stool watching the others play a game of cards. The clew was a trf one," he murmured, softly. Mark Steiner, you ar my man." The conversation of the men beside him indicated that the subject of his BJlilquy was the man on the stool. Tobacco, Steiner! You're usually well supplied." The man addressed drew from his pocket the tan-coloured plug of tobacco common to the frontier, and opened a huge jackknife to divide the same. A keen interest sprang into the watcher's eyes. His glance was eager as it fell on the horn-handled knife he drew nearer to the man, and as the latter returned the knife carelessly to an outside coat- pocket, the stranger reached toward it with the deft rapidity of an expert pickpocket, secured the knife, secreted it in his hand, and then, arising, passed into the next room, where the restaurant portion of the tavern was located. As he sat awaiting the meal he had ordered, his eyes scanned the stolen knife ,vith an eager glance. I knew it-I have proved it!" he uttered ex- citedly. Steiner was at Mingo Junction; Steiner was in the game, and Steiner must be taken back to the place where Eric Landor lies under penalty of death, or an innocent man will suffer." He scarcely touched the meal served to him a few moments later. With impatient restlessness he paced the cold veranda in front of the hotel for some time after leaving the room. Then, with a glance inside to see that Steiner was still there, he started down the street, and entered the little stone building at its remote end—the town hall and police station of the place. When he emerged, half an hour later, a close vehicle, resembling an ambulance kept in his wake and as he, with a gesture to the driver, reached the veranda, the carriage was driven close to the side of the hotel. The stranger took from his pocket r. folded piece of paper, and stood near the door, his slouched hat drawn well over his face. A hostler from the stables was coming toward the house. The stranger stopped him, placed a gold piece in his hand, and, drawing him to the window, pointed through it, and whispered a few words in his ear. With an intelligent nod, the hostler took the paper and entered the room. From the window the stranger saw him execute hit mission. The hostler approached Steiner and slipped the note into his hand. The man started, and then, unfolding the paper, held it from the view of his companions and read it. "He will come," murmured the watcher at the window. The note reading,' From Mingo Junction —trouble brewing—Dave,' will bring him to time." He glided to the side of the door. Steiner came out, closed the door, and peered at the form close to his own. Dave Brinley ?" he whispered. Yes, you can see him. This way." The stranger caught Steiner's arm as if to hurry him to where the sender of the note awaited him. Steiner was thus led to the end of the veranda, and almost thrust through the open door of the vehicle in waiting. There was the first utterance of alarm from Steiner's lips as the door was closed from the outside with a sharp click. Through a small window near the front the rays of a dimly-burning lamp illuminated the interior of the vehicle. "What does this mean?" demanded Steiner. "I thought Brinley-- Was waiting for you. He is. But we will have to drive some distance." "But this waggon-what is it?", inquired Steiner, alarmed suspicious. Can you not surmise ?" The impressive voice startled the decoyed man, No." It is the Mazitland prison van, borrowed for the occasion." An ejaculation of dismayed rage escaped Steiner's lips. He made a spring for the door. The vehicle starting abruptly sent him with a lurch to the floor. Before he could realize it, a pair of handcuffs in- closed his wrists. Who are you ? What does this mean," he de- manded. The stranger smiled calmly, and lifted his hat. "Albion Warde, the frontier detective I" gasped Steiner, in amazement. Exactly," admitted the stranger. Steiner's face was ghastly white; his startled eyes, fixed on the detective, seemed to be studying out the problem of his peculiar situation. Where are you taking me?" he asked, hoarsely, after a pause. "Kidnapping a man to suit a de- tective fancy-- Warde interrupted him with a derisive laugh. "It isn't kidnapping, my friend-it's a plain arrest." "For what?" Can you not guess 1" I've done nothing to deserve it. I've been back in the mountains, mining, for a month or more." Until three nights ago, when you stopped at Mingo Junction." The prisoner started violently. Do you understand me now ?" demanded the de- tective. "No," hoarsely muttered Steiner. Then I will tell you a brief story. Three nights since, Delphin Garland, storekeeper at Mingo Junc- tion, was found murdered, and all his money stolen. His pretty daughter, Tereas, discovered the tragedy. The last visitor at the store had been Eric Landor, her lover, The Vigilance Committee naturally visited his cabin. They found a package of money belong- ing to Garland in his desk. He was arrested. He denied his guilt; but border justice is stern. He dies to-morrow night, unless the real murderer is discovered." "The real murderer!" repeated the prisoner, ap- prehensively. prehensively. Yes. I came there incidentally the next morning. Landor was an old schoolmate of mine. I became satisfied of his innocence. I started out to prove it. I have succeeded." Steiner shuddered perceptibly as he realised the reputation of the detective for shrewdness and per- tinacity in following up a criminal case. The men who murdered Delphin Garland left clews behind them. The placing of the money pack- age in Eric Landor's desk was a flimsy trick to get the rival of Dave Brinley, your accomplice, out of the way. My friend, I am taking you to see Brinley, as I promised but it is at Mingo Junction you must meet him face to face in the prisoner's dock, and decide which of you two killed Delphin Garland, for you were at Mingo Junction last Saturday night." The prisoner did not speak at once. His face had grown steadily paler at the detective's disclosures. His manacled hands trembled visibly. y" You make a bold charge," he gasped, finally. "Your proofs?" Will be in order when the time comes to present them, never fear. You are a hard one, Steiner, and when I incidentally learned you had visited Brinley's cabin the night of the murder, and had disappeared as mysteriously as you came, I set out to trace to your charge the clues left behind you." What clues ?" came in choked accents from the prisoner's lips. "There were two assassins. I know that. One did the deed the other watched at the window. In doing so, he scraped a small patch of frost from the panes. he did something more—he held a red wax candle which lighted the way to the room where Delphin Garland kept money. The candle left drippings on the floor that knife which scraped the panes had a peculiar nick in the blade. This is it." The detective had suddenly exhibited the knife he had stolen from Steiner's pocket in the barroom. The light of the lamp in the carriage revealed the blade with its irregular nick, and showed, clinging to the hane, eeveal email particles of a light reddish colour. The eyes of the prisoner seemed fascinated by the words and actions of his captor. He resembled a man confronted with a surprise he could not under- stand. ■ That red wax rubbed from the candle you used, continued Warde, is nothing you will say. Wax candles ain't so common on the frontier, my friend, and I traced the candle to the wake of a miner you attended the night before the murder, ten miles from the junction. I thought the stranger at the cabin of Brinley was yourself. I have traced you here. I know it now, and Brinley's evidence will complete the link of proof." The cowardly traitor I" cr'ed Steiner, in a trans- port of rage. "Has he turned against me? It was he who did the deed. See here, Albion Warde, I give in to you. I swear I was led to go with him when half-drunk, and I only got twenty dollars of the money. I'll tell the truth if it ain't too late, ii he means to let me swing for the affair." The detective's eyes gleamed triumphantly but tc all outward seeming he was calm and indifferent-a bearing which intensified the excitement of his cap- tive. Yon can do as you like," he said carelessly. Then I'll make a clean breast of it. We did do the deed, but Brinley killed the storekeeper." Ten miles further on, at the town of Warrenville, the detective temporarily left the prisoner in charge of the driver, and hastened to the telegraph office of the place. The message he sent was directed to the marshal at Mingo Junction. He briefly related the capture of the real murderer of Delphin Garland, and added that he would arrive as soon as possible over the mountain road. Delay the execution, if I am late," he telegraphed, or you will hang an innocent man." Then he deposited sufficient money to have the message carried from the nearest telegraph office to Mingo Junction, post-haste. I have but one fear," he murmured, anxiously, as he returned to the prison-van. "The snow-clogged roads may detain me, and Dave Brinley, with his rough followers, may insist on the execution ere I arrive." His fears were not unreasonablo. At Mingo Junc- tion his telegram was received in the morning on the following day. It brought a wild hope to the unfortunate prisoner, Eric Landor, and to the bereaved daughter of the murdered man, who was positive of the innocence of her lover; but it also inspired Dave Brinley to re- newed hatred for his rival and anxiety for himself. He was the bully of the place, and his followers were reckless, desperate men. Albion Warde, who calls himself a detective, sends a vague telegram about catching the real mur- derer," he said to the marshal. It's sheer non- sense, and a trick to put off the hanging. He's a friend of Landor, and wants to save the feller. We'll have no fooling, Mr. Marshal. The evidence is clear against Landor, and he dies at nightfall, according to the verdict of the court, or we'll try lynch law." And the marshal, overcome by threats, agreed that he would wait no longer for Warde than the hour appointed for the execution. Dave Brinley's mind was far more perturbed, however, over the new complication in the case than be allowed others to believe. The mention in the telegram of the arrest of Steiner revealed to him plainly one fact-Steiner had confessed the truth. There's only two alternatives," he muttered, as he wandered restlessly from the town. I must either make tracks or prevent Warde and his prisoner from reaching Mingo Junction and I'll do it!" Villain that he was, he was, geady for any desperate deed, and his evil mind sugsted a plan which might effect his desire, and he set to work to carry it out. The road over the mountains was a narrow one. On the verge of the cliff leading down into the town a pathway crept around the hill, dangerous in fair weather, positively perilous in the present slippery condition of the road. Long experience enabled drivers to round .ts curves in safety, but, as Dave Brinley knew, only by pro- ceeding very cautiously. A turn to the left or right at the wrong moment would send a waggon over the precipice-a sudden start of the horses would insure a disaster. A narrow cut led to the point where the roadway turned to the valley. Here Brinley stationed him- self. From behind a huge bo ulder he looked excitedly up the snowy cliff, as he saw a team of horses and a covered waggon coming into view. With trembling hand, he held his rifle aimed at the horses. He was shut out from the view of the town. As the steeds neared him, turning a sharpe curve at a slow canter, he fired twice. With a leap both horses arose on their haunches, the vehicle swung upon their plunging bodies, rolled to one side and fell sideways over the edge of the cliff, held swinging there at the mercy of a frail pin in the pole, or movement of the dying steeds. The driver had been thrown senseless to the ground. At a glance, Brinley discerned that the disaster had not been complete at a glance, too, he recognised the waggon. He felt satisfied that its inmates could not escape, with the door locked, and hastened toward the spot. He had drawn a knife from his pocket. One keen cut severed the traces. The vehicle swayed. The weight of the horses and the pole alone held it from falling sheer a hundred feet into the yawning chasm below. With feverish haste, Brinley raised his knife to sever the other trace. Then he started. There was a crashing of glass; a man's hand, holding a revolver, reached through the little window in front of the vehicle. A shriek of pain rang from Brinley's lips as a bullet fired from the pistol of the detective struck his throat, and he fell to the ground, mortally wounded. And then, trembling for their safety, as the vehicle seemed to strain to carry its living freight to the abyss below, the detective began to pry the frame from the window, and an aperture sufficiently large to climb to security. He succeeded at last, extracted Steiner, and breathed a mighty sigh of relief as he gazed shudder- ingly over the edge of the precipice. The driver, recovering, aided him in earring wounded Brinley down the road. Abandoning the dead horses and the vehicle, and Steiner, manacled, following them, they took up their slow progress to Mingo Junction. Dave Brinley was dying when he reached the town. The preparations for the execution of Eric Landor were suspended as the marshal listened to the detec- tive's story. An hour later Landor was a free man, restored to the loving arms of Teresa Garland, and Steiner was an inmate of the town gaol. He escaped the fury of the excited populace that his part in the murder was palliated by his confession, and that a long term in the penitentiary would be sufficient punishment. "There was no hanging at Mingo Junction, for Brinley died that night. The stolen money was recovered Steiner was sent to the state prison. Eric Lander married Teresa soon after, with a grateful friendship for the man to whom he owed his life. th, Colorado Detective.

THE Russian Minister of Railways has prepared a time-table showing that when the Trans-Siberian Railway is finished the journey around the world can be made in 35 days. His Majesty the King has graciously consented to become patron of the Royal Literary Fund and her Majesty the Queen has signified her intention of be- coming patroness of the Women's Holiday Fund. A DIlOY, electrically lit, is moored in the North Sea before Bunsum, in Holstein, to give warning of the dangerous sands at that place. Even a slight motion of the waves generates sufficient electricity for illumination, and clockwork in the interior regu- lates the half-minute lighting and extinguishing apparatus. TIIE attempt to dispose of the wrecked P. and O. steamer Sobraon by auction at Hong-kong has failed. The bidding only reached 7500 Mexican dollars, and at that price she was withdrawn, together with the cargo. THE King has given his gracious permission for the subscribers, competitors, and executive of the Windsor and Eton Amateur Regatta to use the tow- ing-path adjoining the royal grounds in the Dachet reach, on the occasion of the fixture on August 3 next. THE Home Secretary has intimated that there is no intention of increasing the pay of Metropolitan Police outside the London County Council area. The salary of the police within that area has recently been increased. THE Lord Chief Justice has appointed Mr. T. Willes Chitty, of the Inner Temple and North- Eastern Circuit, a Master of the King's Bench Division, in succession to Mr. Manley Smith, who recently retired., Mr. Chitty was called to the Bar in 1877. < v

THE DANGER OF ANTHRAX IN I TANNING. Sir Kenelm Digby presided the other day over a conference held at the Home Office of representa- tives of various firms of tanners, shipowners, car- riers, and warehousemen engaged in handling hides with the object of considering the best method of Eroviding against infection from anthrax. Sir Kenelm •igby said that acting under the powers conferred by the Factory Act of 1891 the Secretary of State had y issued certain rules to be observed in the treatment of hides and skins, but as it appeared that in some cases work was unnecessarily restricted by them the repre- sentatives of the industry had been asked to meet in order to consider their terms. It had been said that the principal danger arose in the working of China hides and skins, but the figure obtained by the De- partment showed plainly that there was also danger from East India hides. The first question they had to discuss was in reference to the rule that the occu- pier should provide efficient means of protection for the neck, arms, and hands for the use of persons employed in packing, unpacking, sorting, carrying, or handling any dry or drysalted foreign or East India hides and skins. It had been represented to the Department that a covering for the hands was unnecessary, and that the wearing of gloves interfered with the man in the performance of his duty, such as estimating the quality of the hide, &c. The Home Office were inclined to agree with that, and evidence showed that it was not necessary to cover the hand so long as there was a covering drawn tight at the wrists and at the neck to prevent, the dust from the hides going up the arms or down the neck. Mr. W. L. Jackson, M.P., said it was the desire of the conference that they should come to some conclusion regarding the regula- tions which, I while giving the maximum pro- tection, would involve the minimum of re- striction and interference with trade. With regard to the inclusion of East India hides in the regulations, he might say that he had been con- nected with. the tanning trade for nearly 50 years, treating hardly anything but East India hides, and he had nerer had a case of anthrax. He believed that the cases that had occurred had been due to Bombay hides, which were obtained under different conditions from those shipped from Calcutta. It appeared to him that there was some connection between the famine and plague and the infection of anthrax derived from those hides. So far as he knew there nefer had been a suspicion with regard to the hides coming from Bombay until the past two or three years, but during that period the import had in consequence of the famine and the death of cattle enormously increased; he believed he was within the facts in saying it had increased two hundred-fold. With regard to China, going back over a period of years, whenever there had been a famine in that country there was an outbreak of anthrax in London, and he was inclined to think that supported his view. In the opinion of the trade representatives present it was not necessary to include East India hides within the category of dangerous. He submitted that instead of placing a ban on all East India hides, it would be sufficient to use the words Bombay hides. Other speakers followed, the consensus of opinion being against any tight covering over the body of the worker. Another rule, that no person having an open cut or sore on the face, neck, arm, or hand should be allowed to work until the wound was healed or had been properly dressed, was objected to by Mr. Jackson, who asked, on behalf of the meeting, that it should be struck out altogether. Sir Kenelm Digby said that he con- sidered it was the intention of the department that the employer should only be responsible where the fact of the man having such a wound came under his notice. At the conclusion of the conference the chairman promised that all the suggestions made by the speakers should be fully considered before new rules were drafted.

A RAILWAY MURDER. On the Paris Ceinture Railway the other evening I a clerk, named Dussollier, 21 years of age, shot his sweetheart with a revolver whilst the train was passing through the tunnel under PereLachaise Ceme- tery, and threw her body on to the permanent way. To destroy all traces of the crime, or, perhaps, to give the supposition that the young woman had committed suicide, the murderer threw her umbrella and other effects after her. A passenger in the next carriage, who had heard the shots, had Dussollier arrested as he was attempting to leave to Charonne- station. At first the prisoner denied all knowledge of the crime; and declared that he did not know the young woman but later on, he made a full confes- sion. He said he had been engaged to Mile. Pons for over two years, but his parents refused to allow him to marry because he was too young. He added: I wrote to her to meet me at Vincennes yesterday. We spent the day together, and went to the Bois de Boulogne. There we had a dispute, because she de- clined to acquiesce in my requests. Coming back by train, we had another similar dispute. I threatened to kill her. You dare,' she replied, getting up. I then fired my revolver three times at her. She fell against the door, which I had only to open to let the body fall on to the permanent way." Dussollier denies that he had premeditated the crime, which, he says, he committed in a moment of passion.

THE A.S.R.S. The annual report of the Amalgamated Society of Railway Servants shows that in 1900 very satisfac- tory progress has been made. There are now 628 branches, which is an increase of twelve since the commencement of the year, while there is shown to have been an increase. of 2204 members during the year. The society's income from all sources during the twelve months amounted to E74,218 6s. 2d., an increase of E4853 14s. 4d. upon the previous year. The total expenditure during the year was £ 53,552 13s. 2d.

THE VRYHEID DISTRICT. The Vryheid district, which the Premier of hiatal has just stated may ultimately be ceded to Natal, is what was known as the new Republic, a district 3000 square miles in extent in the north-west of Zululand. It was granted to the Boers in 1886 by the Usutu, a Zulu clan, for the services they rendered in defeating the Umandhlakazi, a rival faction (men of great strength). Lucas Meyer, the Boer leader, was appointed the first President of the new Republic. Vryheid, the capital, is only a country village, but it forms a good trade eentre for the district. Before the war broke out, a railway was in process of con- struction between Dundee, in Natal, and Vryheid.

RBAR-ADMIRAL SIR WILLIAM ACKLAND, who is to become second in command of the Channel Squadron, is one of the youngest Admirals in the list, being in his 54th year. Sir William saw the whole of the war between Chili and Peru in 1877, being attached to the Chilian Army. Sir William entered the service in 1861, beeame captain in 1885, and secured flag rank fourteen years later. He has commanded the Royal yacht. A CERTAIN well-known barrister is a married man and lives in a flat at Westminster. Recently his wife has been away in the country, and the man of law shut up the flat and went to stay with aome friends in town. Happening to go to his flat to fetch some papers, he noticed that a pet cat, which was the only occupant the flat was looking thin. Dressed in his professional tail coat and top hat, he went out to a fried fish shop in a small street near by and asked for some of the malodorous delicacies. The compro- mising nature of the situation was brought home by the answer snapped at him from behind the counter: Ye'11 have to wait, the 'taters ain't ready." The barrister's attempt to explain that the fish was for a cat, and that cats do not require 'taters," led to such a heated discussion that he fled in despair. IT is dangereus to visit a barber if you cannot speak his language. A. young Englishman spending an hour or two at Venice, on his way home from the East, thought to improve his personal appearance by a visit to the local representative of the brush and razor fraternity. All went well until, seeing what he took to be the singeing apparatus, the Englishman indicated by gesture a desire for its application. Un- fortunately he became absorbed in a paper, and did not look up till the process was ended. The glass re- flected his head covered with clustering curls. Thus had the barber interpreted his pantomimed request. When the traveller joined the rest of his party in the train it was noticed that he kept his hat on, saying that he felt a draught-but truth will out when a schoolboy brother starts investigations. LoRD LAWRENCE and Captain Walter Campbell have been succeeded by the Earl of Kintore and the Hon. Alexander Yorke as Lord and Groom in Wait- ing-txf his Majesty the King.

[ THE WOMAN'S WORLD. THERE are are so many different shapes and stylas of hats this year (says the London Journal) that the problem of choosing from them is more difficult than ever. Eccentric is a term that certainly may be applied to any and every one of this summer's shapes. The colourings are less striking than were seen last year, and there are fewer violent contrasts, but ex- traordinary combinations of materials are shown in single hats, and weird shapes make even the so-called simple hats to appear decidedly complex. Whether the season's hat will look well depends largely upon how the hair is arranged. It must be dressed low over the forehead, for the shapes that were fashion- able last year with the hair brushed back from the forehead may not be worn now. At present, the desire seems to be to have the hair pushed down on one side of the forehead and the hat put on at right angles, to show this supposedly soft lock. CURIOUS enough are many of the new hats. Some flute the brim and bend it down, others turn it up until it rests upon the crown if its width is very great. Many of these are tied up basket-wise. Ribbons from the centre of the crown on top and from somewhere in the region of the^head-lining meet about midway, and tie into choux large and small, with a quill for decoration. One quill of the fashion- able size is sufficient for any, if not too much for many hats. Extreme width is their charm. Some- times outer rows of a different colouring tell how they are made up, and others are tinted, one tone throughout making where suitable a handsome orna- ment for a simple hat. ALTHOUGH the" new fashions for the spring in Paris are now entirely brought out, one has not yet been able to judge what the particular rage of the season is to be. The smart material for chic walking and visiting gowns, however, is decidedly proved to be black or dark-toned taffetas. Judging by the popu- larity of this material worn at the Coneours Hippique for smart tailor-made gowns it ought to be greatly in demand this season. French tailor- mades are quite different from English tailors mades, as everyone knows-so that nobody will be astonished to learn that all the very smartest tailor-made gowns are to be built of so thin a material as taffetas. The skirt, tight-clinging at the hips and full around the lower hem, is trimmed with innumerable rows of narrow black velvet ribbon, put on either in circles, in straight lines, or in some fantastic design. Simple cloth strappings are also, worn as a garniture for these taffetas gowns, but arc not so popular as velvet. However plain the taffetas skirt may be, the corsage-bolero of taffetas is not only trimmed with the ubiquitous petit velours or cloth strapping, but is also profusely tucked as well. SMART and serviceable shirts for morning wear are of holland, with turn-down collar and cuffs of white linen. ———— CRYSTALINE is a new material, of light texture, re- sembling satin muslin, which will be extensively used for blouses as the season advances. A VERY lovely dress is built almost entirely of cream military braid in graduated widths from waist to hem, alternating with an open-work inser- tion of thick lace of the same tint as the braid. ZIGZAG and horizontal insertions are more popular than upright or straight ones, and a prevailing mode is to commence with a deep band of lace insertion at the foot, graduating at intervals of an inch or so up to the waist to a very narrow width indeed. A NEW style of skirt, described in the Echo, is tucked from the waist, and has a very narrow front breadth, over which the side gores are stitched in such a way that a quarter-inch fold projects over the front breadth. This is practically a narrow tuck, and is in keeping with those which appear at the waist. The tucks begin as near the front breadth as possible, the first being nearly a quarter of a yard deep, the ninth and last little more than an inch. Voile is a capital material for making these tucked skirts, which, by the way, are often finished with a flounce, which is both shaped and tucked, and possibly also trimmed with fancy ribbon or velvet just over a quarter of an inch in width. Let me describe one of electric blue. The flounce was about a quarter of a yard deep when three narrow tucks had been made just above the half-inch hem. Two rows of narrow magpie velvet trimmed this flounce in a series of Vandykes, deep enough almost to touch the tucks. Between each of these Vandykes five tiny tucks started from the top of the flounce a.:d ran down for varying lengths, the centre tuck measuring four inches, the outside ones barely two. WASHING coat and skirt costumes are already ap- pearing, the loose, sacque-backed bolero lending it- self well to this purpose, far better, indeed, than the tight-fitting coat of the last few seasons, which never survived its pristine beauty under the hands of the laundry folk. White, grey, blue, dark olive green, and buS linen all look well made up in this way, and are preferable to the stiffer pique and drill. Delightful effects are given by the addition of wash- ing silk collars, either spotted or striped silk, the former looking best. These are cut Tery wide, reach- ing to the shoulders, have high collars, and are frilled all round the edge back and front, the waist- belt being of the same silk with a well-tried bow in front, the draped belt showing all round beneath the loose bolero. It is easy, given a white or ivory wash- ing material, to vary the costume by wearing a different collar, waistbelt, and hat trimming. Hand- some silver, steel, or mother-o'-pearl buttons, easily detachable when the costume is washed, are used, but only two large ones on the front of the bolero, which is merely intended to be worn open, over a full vest of silk or cambric, and two, linked, for the wrist- bands of the somewhat loose, long sleeves, which wash better than those of narrower make. A RING worn on the finger of Queen Alexandra, which was given by King Edward to his bride at the time of his marriage, contains the word Bertie worked in six kinds of jewels, each gem beginning with the requisite letter for forming the word-beryl, emerald, ruby, turquoise, jacinth, and emerald. The Duke of Connaught always wears a ring with "Marguerite" worked across it in pearls, while the Duchess dis- plays a similar circlet containing the word Arthur." All the Royal family adopt the fashion of wearing a wedding-ring on the third finger of the right hand during the engagement, and they transfer it to the left hand on the marriage-day. SOME of the most successful burglars (remarks the Evening News) receive the assistance of women, and many daring robberies owe their prosperous termi- nation to the women who have aided the marauders in their desperate transactions. Women are not so easily suspected as men, and are thus able to glean much information concerning the house about to be despoiled, its fastenings, and the habits of its occu- pants, &c., which is impartedto the men, who pay them for their services. A recently con- victed confessed that she earned quite a considerable sum, sometimes as much as 30s., for thus assisting men of shady character. IF you get a bit of dust or anyttring in your eye, don't immediately begin to rob it, but instead close both eyes, hold your head forward, and blow your nose hard. If this does not have the desired effect, rub the uninjured eye gently, holding your head downwards at the same time. ONE important factor often neglected in the care of children (says the Sun) is fresh air. They should have a good airing out of doors at least once a day, when the weather is favourable. Thus they get plenty of oxygen so vital to growth and develop- ment, become hardened and accustomed to the vicissitudes of a changeable climate. They should have plenty of sleep, small amounts of the proper kind of food at regular intervals, daily baths, fol- lowed by mild friction with a soft towel, preferably before their morning airing. A great doctor once remarked that bad venti- lation deforms more children and destroys more health than accidents of plague. Baby should never be put to sleep in bed or perambulator with the head under the bed elothing, to inhale the air already breathed. By doing this you are smother- ing the life out of your child's lungs. How would you like to drink the water yoa wash in? Well, when you cover your baby's head up you force him to inhale into his lungs air that is just as bad, and just as impure. Remember that the night nursery needs ventilation as much as the day one, and see that one of the windows is left open at night. A Bcreeiuto protect the bed from draught will remove any danger of taking cold.