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I FIELD AJN1) FARM.

I GARDENING GOSSIP.

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I GARDENING GOSSIP. I (From "Gardening Illustrated.") I CONSERVATORY. Climbers in a roomy house should (Mr. E. Hobday says) be a special feature. Tacsonias are lovely now. Jasminum grandiflorum, Plumbago capensis, Sol- anum jasminoides, Sollya heterophylla, Rhyncos- permum jasminoides, Mandevillea suaveolens are all beautiful climbing plants, and are now, or will be shortly, wreathed with blossoms. The variegated variety of Cobsea scandens has beautiful foliage, and is well adapted for a cool-house, where there is room for the young shoots to hang and festoon about. Room also may be found for Fuchsias, Tea and Noisette Roses, Ivy-leaved Geraniums," Heliotropes, and the double Scarlet Geraniums." Raspail Im- proved are bright things on walls or pillars, and will furnish abundance of flowers for cutting. A good deal may be done with baskets. Achimenes, Tro- paolum Coolgardie (beautiful golden blossoms), Ivy Geraniums," Petunias, Lobelias, Harrison's Musk, Sedttm carneum variegatum, will make a nice selection for basket work, with Ferns for shady corners. One of the best Ferns for a basket at this season is Nephrolepis exaltata. Phle- bodium aureum is a good companion for it. Both should be started in a warm-house i nd moved to the conservatory for the summer when well established. Many plants which require heat in winter will do in the conservatory now. Bougainvillea glabra, that was at. one time regarded as a warm-house climber, will do well in the conservatory. In making borders for climbers the drainage must be right, as plants will not thrive if there is any stagnation at the roots. Most plants will grow and flower well in good yellow loam, enriched a little with leaf-mould, with all the bits of stick, Beech Nut husks, and everything likely to breed fungus sifted out of it. Water- ing now requires careful attention. Every plant when dry must have a thorough soaking, a-id it will be necessary to look over pot plants twice during the twenty four hours. The evening is a good time for watering, as then the con- dition of the plants can be better ascertained. But during such dry weather as the present a plant watered in the evening will require it again before mid-day on the day following. No glass-house ex- cept the warm stove) should be altogether closed in very hot weather, and shade either from climbers or something on the glass is absolutely necessary, if the foliage and blossoms are to be kept in good condi- tion. Hard-wooded plants may be taken to a coal- ash bed in a sheltered spot outside, and besides care- ful watering, must be syringed twice a day. This refers chiefly to plants which have completed their growth. STOVE. I Acalypha Sanderiana reminds one of the old- fashioned border annual Love-lies-bleeding. It is distinct from most warm-house plants, and will do in the conservatory in summer. I do not think it will make an ideal market plant, but as it is easily propagated we shall soon know if there is money in it for the market grower. Caladium argyrites is a charming little plant for table decoration, and will last well in the rooms. Cyperus alternifolius varie- gatus is a light and elegant table plant, and if it only came true from seeds there would be a run upon it. Coleusis seem to have gone out of fashion, but they are useful for those who cannot grow better things. To get colour in the foliage they must be grown in strong light. Himantophyllums, or Clivias, as they used to be called, are among the most useful plants for the small grower, as they are very accomodating as regards temperature, and when old make grand specimens in tubs or large pots. Shade must be used now, but as far as possible I regard shade to glass- houses as a necessary :evil, to be dispensed with as much M possible. RENOVATING OLD VINES. I There are cases where it pays to renovate old Vines instead of rooting them out and planting young ones. If an old Vine is healthy then mere age should not be used as an argument against its retention. If en- couraged to gradually renew itself by making new rods, cutting away the old rods as the young ones ex- tend, there is no reason why, if judiciously supported and nourished, a Vine should be worn out at thirty years. I am inclined to think that Vines with roots altogether inside wear out sooner than when they have a healthy root-run] outside in addition to the border inside, I always find the advantage of mulch- ing the inside as well as the outside border with some- thing good to encourage the surface roots, especially before the hot weather sets in. FRUIT GARDEN. I In many gardens the fruit crop will be a thin one if we except bush fruits, which are fairly plentiful. Strawberries are later than usual, and the drought is telling upon them. Of course small patches may be watered, but on a large scale irrigation becomes expensive when hand labour has to do the work. But irrigation is the simplest thing possible where the supply is plentiful, and elevated sufficiently to distribute itself. The expense of running a few iron pipes about a place is not great, with taps at suitable intervals to which a hose can be attached. When fruit-trees are grown in the garden round the edges of the vegetable quarters do not plant anything nearer than 4ft. of the stems, and keep the spade that distance away. Stone fruits should have a firm root run, but the roots should be well nourished. A tree that is making luxuriant growth does not want manure, but when the right season comes round (October) check the roots. It is the free bearing :tree that should be manured, and always on the surface. Peach-trees may be pruned any time, so far as the removal of useful wood is con- cerned. There are naked branches which are no good to the tree, and would be better removed. This is specially true of trees in pots. VEGETABLE GARDEN. I Discontinue the cutting of Asparagus and dress the beds with artificial manure, to be watered in, unless there is a liquid-manure tank available. Sow Parsley and Horn Carrots for winter use. Sow second early Peas. Scarlet Runners may be planted for a late and Horn Carrots for winter use. Sow second early Peas. Scarlet Runners may be planted for a late crop. Plant Broccoli and other winter Greens as fast as ground becomes vacant. Keep the hoe going con stantly in fine weather. Transplant Beet if more is required, and thin seedlings to nine or ten inches. An early kind of French Bean should be sown in preference to a late one now. Draw a little earth up to the stems of Beans, Peas, and all green crops of the Cabbage tribe. Sow main crop of Turnips. If the weather continues dry, soak the drills with liquid-manure, and sow the seeds on the damp soil. Look over Cucumbers and Tomatoes often under glass to stop and regulate the growth. Any Tomato plants not yet planted should go out at once-every day's delay now acts prejudicially. Things are later than usual this season, and every encouragement should be given to the Tomato crop. An occasional dose of liquid-manure and a forkful of mulch will add to the strength and consequent productiveness. Make up Mushroom-bed behind a north wall. Plant plenty of Celery. Sow Endive ¡ and Lettuces. I A. caOICII PINK Dianthus callizonum is among the choicest of the Pinks, and worth special care to make it a success. In point of size it may be compared with the more tufted D. alpinus or D. neglectus when these are of large size, and of richer colour than either. The large solitary blossoms, however, are produced on leafy stems that are 3in. or 4in. long, the tuft of leaves decidedly more spreading than in the other kinds named. A patch of this covered with its hand- some flowers would form a charming picture, and joining as a close succession to other species invests it with additional value.

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