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-om. TWR.I



I AMATEUR GARDENERS' COLUJFN. In responee to numerous requests we have decided to dedicate a column of the 'Expro, I weekly to the interests of the amateur gardener. Hithertc we have incorporated horticultural matters in our "Farmer's Circle," where the farmer will continue to find helpful hints in tending his orchard and garden; but this new column will admit of a more comprehensive treat- ment of the subject, with special regard to the allotment or small private garden, the treatment of soil and seed and plants, according to the season. We invite readers to contribute short paragraphs describing anything of interest, or offering a useful tip," and to regard the oolumn as specially theirs. I am glad to note that in my neighbourhood the rosarian is rapidly multiplying. The rose was always the prime favouiite in my lattle vineyard, and after some years of study I have got together perhaps as choice a collection as one might wish. The great thing in establishing a rosary is to have regard not only to arrangement of colour, but to the habit and growth nud character of particular bushes, such as will ensure an almost continuous bloom from June to October. For this purpose you must have a judicious mix- ture of hybrid perpetuals, hybrid teas, and teas. Study the nurseryman's catalogue, which describes these varieties. I invariably make a choice each autumn aftercarefully comparing the descriptions of the roses in about half-a-dozen catalogues, and although well served by a southern grower, I find the best results are obtained from hushes that have been reared in a northern nursery. It stands to reason that if you bring any kind of plant into a colder clime there must be a doubt as to its doing well The same risk is not attendant upon the introduction of a northern grown rose into southern soil. Hence, I believe, the popularity of the Scotch potato. By all means get roses of a hardy stock. There is nothing uglier or more disappointing in the garden than ill-doing rose trees. Don't you agree ? Now is the time to get year new roses. Those of my readers who are not familiar with the best varieties may be interested to have the names of them. Here are three dozen to choose from. I have grown them all successfully at Newtown, and can confidently recommend them:- A K. Williams (carmine red); Captain Hay- ward (carmine crimson); Fisher Wolmes (rich purple crimson) Merveill de Lyon (pure white) Mrs John Laing (pink)-all hybrid perpetuals. Etoile de Lyon (sulphur yellow); Muriel Graham (cream); Souvenir de Pierre Notting (apricot yellow); White Maman Cochet-all tea scented. Admiral Dewey (light blush); Bardon Job 11" J"8 /It. 1"1 11 (very Drigni- uhujouii, captain unristy (nesn colour); Caroline Testout (bright satin pink); Chas. J. Graham (orange crimson); Dean Hole (silvery carmine) Dorothy Page Roberts (coppery pink); Dr Campbell Hall (coral rose); George C. Ward (orange vermillion); General McArthur (bright crimson); Gladys Harkness (salmon pink); Grace Darling (creamy white and peach) Gustav Grunnerwald (carmine with yellow centre); Gustave Regis (canary yellow); K. A. Victoria (cream); Killarney (flesh-shaded white) Lady Ashtown (pale pink); Liberty (velvety crimson); Madame Abel Chatenay (carmine); Lyon Rose (shrimp pink) Madam Ravary (golden yellow); Marquise Litta (carmine); Mrs John Bateman (deep china rose); Mrs W. J. Grant (imperial pink); Pharisaer (rosy white and salmon); Richmond (red scarlet)—all hybrid teas. One important factor in the production of a satisfying crop of rose blooms is the proper planting of the bushes. First of all the hole must be dug deep and wido enough to admit all the roots into an easy position. There must be no twisting of the roots to make them fit the hole. The hole must be made to fit them Don't forget that, please. And don't dig that hole at all in very wet or frosty weather. Better let the bushes lie in a trench till the ground is workable. Having dug the hole to a depth which will accommodate the roots and the stem on which the rose is grafted-the grafting point should just be under the surface of the soil, and nothing more,—place old cow manure in the bottom, and over that spread a few inches of soil-rich loam or clayey soil—tread the soil hard round the stem, and earth it up to safeguard the grafting against frost. Many people believe in covering the surface of the r63obed with a heavy layer of manure during the winter. I don't. My manur- ing is done in spring, when I dig it in, prepara- tory to carpetting the bed with small plants, and throughout the summer I apply liquid manure of cow dung, Clay's fertilizer, as welt as soap suds and soot water. The rose is a gross feeder, and two year old plants will take as much nourish- ment as you care to administer. They also like it in varied form. Be careful, however, to err on the safe side in this work by making the doses weak. Weak doses and frequent are better than a strong one, and this caution avoids the risk of injuring the plant. Also remember that first year roses will not stand the feeding liked by older ones. During their first year they are making roots. Do not arrest that process by poisoning it. As to soil, the rose takes best to a heavy loam. It does not flourish well in light soil, nor will it yield the best results where there is ground with too much clay. The grower must examine the soil and prepare it accordingly. The necessary pruning, which is done at the end of March, we will discuss later on. What is all-important now is proper planting in proper soil, and planning for effect in colour. These nippy nights have 1 knocked down the begonias, whose bulbs should now be dug up and set in shallow boxes to dry. Do not attempt to remove the stems or the bulbs will be spoiled. In a few days the stems will drop off. The boxes should be set on a warm shelf, or in sunshine, so that they may become perfectly dry. Turn them occasionally, and when they become dry rub off most of the soil and roots, but take care not to damage the skin. When onca properly dried store them away in boxes among dry sand; set the boxes in a cool place, but safe from frost. A warm place is unsuitable, as it starts growth prematurely, and so weakens, or even entirely spoils, the bulbs. Time, also, it is fw: lifting and storing the dahlias. Many people leave the roots in the ground all the year round. Flower they will, of course, but after a kind. If one is ambitious to have the best of flowers one must give them the best of attention. With a fork lift the roots, taking care not to damage the tubers. Remove all the soil with a pointed stick, and lay by for a few days to dry. A dry cellar is the best place to winter them in to keep free from frost. Stand the stems downward, as this helps to keep them from starting into growth too early. r- Regarding the planting of hyacinths, tulips, narcissus, and other spring flowering bulbs, no time should be lost. If very fine blooms be aimed at, good strong (rather than fine) soil must be chosen. Varieties vary so much in the size of the bulbs that it is difficult to say just the exact depth to plant, but a fairly safe rule is to set them so that the tops are about three inches below the surface. The small sorts may be an inch less. If it is intended that the bulbs are to remain in the ground for some years, allow about four inches between them; but if for only a season then an inch less will do. The choice of varieties must be determined by the condition of your purse, but here are a few fine sorts: Hyacinths.—Czar, Peter, King of the Yellows, Baroness Von Thuyll, Grand Blanch, L'Innocence, Gertrude, Regulua. Narcissus.—Sir Watkin, Emperor, Golden Spur, Incomparable, Princeps, Mrs Langtry. Tulips.—Chrysolora, L'Immaculee, Kaisercroon, Duchess de Parma, Rose Gris de Lin, Yellow Prince, Eldorado, Cardinal's Hat. Here endeth my first chapter. Does it interest you? If it does you will become not only a regular reader, but perhaps help me keep up the instructive character of this column by occasional contributions. GODFBET DANIBL.




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