The Welsh Coast Pioneer and Review for North Cambria

THE PRIMROSE LEAGUE AT ST ASAPH. FETE AT ELWY GROVE PARK. Thanks to the untiring efforts of Mrs Howard, of Wigfair, the dame president of the St. Asa-ph Habitation of the Primrose League, new life has been put into this organisation, and for the first time for some eight years a fete was held in connection with it to-day week in the grounds of Ehvy Grove Park. M Howard took in hand the rc-organismg of the Habitation, and ably assisted by Colonel Johnston, Mri Aitkin, and Miss Nesta Williams, the result is a very flour- ishing branch of the League. The attendance on Thursday was most encou- raging, and a very pleasant time was spent under ideal conditions. Among' those present were: Colonel and Mrs Howard, Mrs Mellor (Tany- bryn). Colonel and Mrs Johnston, Mr Harold Edwards (the Unionist candidate for Flintshire), Mr Sam Thompson (the Unionist candidate for West Denbighshire), Mr WT. Watts, Colonel II. 11 Captain and Mrs Wilkinson, Mr and Mrs Buxton, the Misses Bibby, Miss Nesta Williams, Mrs Aitkin. Mrs Walthall, etc. The stewards were Messrs Owen Edwards, D. Ro- berts, W. Clarke, J. E. Jones, and B. Roberts. After impromptu sports had been held, danc- ing was indulged in to music by the Llanddulas Band. Tea was then served in the room ad- joining the Plough Hotel, Mr and Mrs Roberts catering most satisfactorily. In the evening a meeting was held in the open air, when Coionel Johnston presided, and in in- troducing Mr Sam Thompson, said that one of the main purposes of the Primrise League was to provide political education for the people. It was an organisation which had done an immense amount of good, and at the present time it had over one million members (applause). Mr Sam Thompson, who had an enthusiastic reception, said that he was pleased to find that the St. Asaph Habitation of the Primrose League had had a very satisfactory resuscitation. Deal- ing with the objects of the League he pointed out that it was formed in memory of the great- est statesman that had ever lived-Lord Beacons- field. They had to bear in mind what had been the policy of that statesman, and to remember that he not only made Jus name with his foreign policy, but he had put on the statute book mea- sures which had benefited the working classes. Speaking as one who had worked for his living in a mine, he was able to say that the measures which Lord Beaconsfield passed for the miners had been of the greatest service to them. He was the first to pass into law a Bill which re- stricted the hours of miners, and he had passed the Truck Act (applause). Then, again; the country to-day was realising the wisdom of the words which Lord Beaconsfield uttered when the first step was taken towards the so-called Free Trade. On the day that the measure became law he told the House of Commons that England would live to find that a time of bitterness would come through the policy, of Free Trade, and it had come in no unmistakable a manner (hear, hear). The policy advocated by Lord Beacons- field in 1846 was the policy of the Unionist party to-day, and the country was beginning to awake to tha necessity of adopting Tariff Reform Up plaiise). The speaker then went on to briefly criticise the policy of the present Government, and condemned their Licensing Bill as a most unjust measure, which had a tendency to make everyone who had property uneasy. He hoped that the Primrose League in that district would be able to make its voice heard when the time for work and that the Unionist candidates for the borouglis and the county would be re- turned by a large majority (applause). Votes of thanks were then passed to the speakers, and to the ladies who had organised the fete. THE LATEST SKIRT. The majority of the newest skirts have ail the appearance of being made without a single seam. In reality there is a seam, of course, but in some cases it; is placed on the right side and is disguised by being made to button from top to bottom with real buttons and buttonholes, and at others is put on the left and hidden under a skilful arrangement of draped folds. Needless to say, these new skirts are extremely graceful and very becoming to any but very stout or very thin figures. RENOVATING OLD GOWNS. One of the most practical methods of reno- vating old gowns that has been suggested this winter is that of cutting open the seams and connecting the material instead with hairpin" work in worsted or silk. The old corsage is picked to pieces, cleaned, damped, and pressed, then simply cut into tho newer shape, the lack of "turning" for the scams being accounted for by this novel method. A shaped flounce may be attached to a plain skirt in the same way. WHEN MAKING UP MUSLIN. When making up muslin or any thin material, it is a good plan to stitch down each seam a piece of narrow tape. This keeps the seams quite firm, and also prevents them from stretch- mjr. when washed, and the uneven appearance which is often the result.. TAILORED GARMENTS. Many women who will venture gaily upon quite an elaborate frock or blouse feel that they dare not attempt anything in the shape of a costume or, more especially, of a tailor-made coat. III Tailored gti-trien?s cct-ta?inly have a finished, I)ro fessio.,ial air that I_ rl?,tlier alarzyi-.ri to the amateu r, but in realit.v ',bov are not -?t i)it m?)re difficult to Tiinagre than anv other iort c)f di7e.3?i- making, if only one be willing to spend a certain amount of time and trouble upon the making. The secret of success in tailoring lies in extreme- ly accurate cutting of the garment, and very thorough and careful pressing of every seam and stitchJltg. In cutting out it is an excellent plan, if the pattern does not allow of turnings, to place the paper pattern on the material, pin it iirmly down, and then go all round the edges with a piece of tailor's chalk. The exact size and shape of the pattern are thus left on the material, and it is an easy matter to baste all the pieces together on the chalk lines, thus ensuring an accurate hang and fit. When pressing, unless the material be of very delicate colour, it is better to use a damp cloth over the seam to be pressed, and to finish off with a fairly hot iron, the result being a perfectly flat seam. A USEFUL COAT. And now, turn to the coat in our illustra- tion. It is a long coat with Raglan sleeves, which is a particularly useful garment for autumn, winter, and early spring wear. This coat is cut on such simple and practical lines, and with such an absence of exaggeration, that 0 it will remain fashionable for an indefinite period, and is, therefore, well worth carrying out I, mater al. lle,,tvy ser go,od twced, a g( frieze, and blanket cloth arc all suitable fabrics for the purpose. Harris tweed being particular- ly good, as it turns anything but the heaviest rain. The coat is quite slack-fitting all round, and has a single-breasted invisible fastening down the front. From the neck turn back plain re- vers and collar of the material odged with a. line of machine stitching. The sleeves arc of simple coat-shape, finished with plain turn-back cuffs, and are set into the top of the coat with the Raglan seams, which always produce such a smart, effect. For this coat 4h yards of 44-inch material is required. r CONG COAT WITH RAGLAX SLEEVES.

LADIES. LADIES. MRS W. O.BROOKES-BROOKES,the eminent Lady Specialist in all Female Complaints, has much pleasure in announcing that her REMEDY for restoring regularity WITHOUT MEDICINE is the only positive, safe, certain, and speedy I one known. It acts almost immediately, and I does not interfere with household duties. I guarantee every case. Send t )nc,3 stamped addi-egsed envelope for full par'icu I lars and most convincing testimonials (Guaranteed Genuine under a penalty of £1000) to Mrs W. C. BROOKES-BROOKES, 220, Ard- gowan-road, Catford, London. 2279p A boat made of flowers was among the tri- butes at the funeral of Mr Claapcr, the boat- builder, at Putney. MILLINERY. mmmkv&mmms ARE NOW MAKING A SMART SHOW OF Autumn & Winter Millinery, FLOWERS, WINGS, etc. LATEST STYLES AT MODERATE PRICES Marlborough House, Conway Road, COLWYN BAY. HEPWORTH'S (LIMITED.) Tailors and Gent's Outfitters. New Autumn Goods. I NOW SHOWING IN ALL DEPARTMENTS THE LATEST DESIGNS AND COLOURINGS. I Men's Suits to Measure, 30/- to 55/=. WE GUARANTEE STYLft, FIT and WORKMANSHIP, MEN'S SUITS READY TO WEAR. A GRAND SELECTION. 21/- TO SUIT ALL SIZES. IN THE Outfitting Department, TYIE LATEST IN EVERYTHING AT POPULAR PRICES, LLANDUDNO, RHYL, COLWYN BAY.. — OUR MOTTO IS— Excellence of Workmanship at The very lowest possible charges. EVANS AND HUGHES, BHNGOR, LADIES' anJ GENTLEMEN'S TAILORS and OUTFITTERS. Every Description of Tailoring PROMPTLY EXECUTED. Ladies' Costumes a Speciality. 338, HIGH STREET, BANGOR, Our Representative makes periodical call* in Denbighshire and Flilltshire, 22296p E 0 1 C I N E.?hk\ll PERFECT MEDICINE. Indigestion, Aiizmia, Liver Conplaa i?n) liri. usness, JOHNSON's CHINE, PL Sr 1/1.1 per box, are the best. For Blood )nflarc,,mation las. Said Varicose VeiiisLSErlys,.ipe "Poison L s, JO X 01 Leg. HNSON'S X ?l .2 3:is a ure. Advice free. JOHNSON Bros' ases Speciali.,ts,Wrine Hil],Crew 0 ?r* A T ft ?? ir' 'v A L H 0 T T J& JM? iL? iL? ?? iL JtL 60 ?f?ft 61 ? I?i?h Rt???t ?J??f aL%J&J???? ?L? <&.y AJLAj?iLA ???!&??' ????ta — R H Y L. '%AT MA TC S 11 f Vr]L Aa ")K I Ib? r AUTUMN WEAR,, K A CHARMING SELECTION OF LONG COATS FROM 16/9 IN TWEEDS AND I BLANKET CLOTHS. THE LATEST PARISIAN STYLES IN MIl LINERY AT MODERATE PRICES. Novelties in all Depart ments., Inspection invited 1

BEEN AWARDED OVER 30 FIRST PRIZES AND DIPLOMAS FOR WELSH TWEEDS AND DRESS MATERIALS. JOHN JONES, MANUFACTURER OF WnLSH TWEEDS, FLANNELS &■ j Patterns and Prices on Application. Wool taken in exchange for Goods. PATRONISED by H.R.fl. Princess Louise of Sehleswig- Holstein, the Grand Duko Michael of Russia, Her Grace the Duchess of Beaufort, Viscountess Falmouth, His Excellency the Governor of Jersey, and others of the Mobility thioughout the United Kingdom. RYNKIR WOLLEN FACTORY, DOLBENMAEN, NORTH WALES. 2,35t¡)

A LADY NOVELIST'S ADVEN- TURES. fkMAZING STORIES OF THE LATE "LUCAS CLEEVE." S20,000 FORGERY. PEER'S FAILURE; RUIN OF TWO CLERGYMEN More amazing, certainly, than the caj-cer of my woman depicted in her own novels iva.3 the career of Mrs Adeline Gc'trgina ^Isabel Kings- pote, better known as ''Lucas CUeeve," wboae 'rfe&i-h has just ooourr-od at Gha^eau d Oex, JSvvitwriand. The lady had in her veias the bil- -land, cunib'n-f?-I -4?c,t, bl,,od of l,.n,? I w'?h tytat (),f ..r Nvw 'Ur I Lgrael. lier fathe I cilry I)rummond W,>Ifl Lord Randolph Churchill's old aliy, and borne time Bntisn Ambassador at Madrid. Her grandfather was Joseph Wolffo, the con- verted Jew, who became a Chuich of England missionary, and by the power of his hypnotic Bye procured the release of two English offi- cers from the Khan of Bokha-ra Her grand- Jnother was Lady Georgina Walpole, a daughter of the second Earl of Oxford. The grand- daughter seemed to inherit the fascinating in- fluence of hor grandaire, for he made men in all ,aD kg do her will. She married Colonel 'Howard Kingsc-oie, wfaooe father, Sir Niffel Kingsoote, stood high in Court circles. The first hint that English society received of the lady's peculiar financial getuus was in oonneotian with the cheque of a certain "wll- kncr.vn peer. Moved by a recital of her finan- cial difficultiee. tihe peer gave the lady a ch!-q,,ic for a beggarly £ 2000. So modest a tribute to her silvery voice and bear beautiful eyes did not ,plei.se Mrs Kingscote. Whefi the cheque was presented it had grown to F,20,000, a sum un- 'dreaml of by the peer in hia most wildly gene- rous aberrations. He, however, paid up like a sportsman, and everybody was happy, especially Mrs Kingscote. Mrs Kingscote \va.< at this fimo (1893) borrowing money at 60 p?r cent, from a West End usurer, and was up to her eyes m debt- Ea.rlv in the nineties Mrs Kingsccrte fir3t met Lord Byron—unhappily for lus lordship. At ? i v,?,,i a n tiiis t,?e C;otjml K'Ln-scoW had been 1* important military command, and Mrs Kings- cote desired to set up an establishment at tHeadlingten. Money was scarce, and the lady thought her that here was a.n ex,Ilent chance for her triend, Lewd Byron. Sh3 would find bun a splendid investment. She wanted his lordship to part with some €25,000. 'r,JÏ3 was a large order, even though Mrs Kingscote, to quote her own words, rcg-arded hia lordship aS "Lh,-? b,*g,-est ?LliOt in England." th?re- r)ro' d t?at the advance .3hou'?cl be s',afc- pose guarded by a handsome seeirrit The security ;was invented by the genius of a gentleman who had discovered a way of manufacturing b ots that would have immortal soles. This gentle- man told his story to Lord Byron, mentioning that the United States had ottered him a trifle of ;c",oo,ooo for the patent. The inventor pro- mised to settle Mrs Kingso^te's bills when he came into his fortune, and held out hopes of imonense profits to friends who wculd oblige her in the meantime. J At the same time, two Oxfordshire clergymen were hooked- She told one of them tliat she had a revft-sionary interest in £ 130,000,as though the eternal boot scheme were not enough to t inapt the sovereigns out of My reverend ca.pi- talist's pockets. All that the two pardons de- rived from the affair was ruin. Lo^d Byron's reward was a dozen of champagne sent by Col- one! Kingsoote, and, as Lord Byron pathetic- aliv observed in the bankruptcy oourt, probably paid for out of his own money. When one of the clergymen wrote that he must consult his Solicitors Mrs Kingscote replied in a letter which Mr Registrar Walsh, at the Oxford Bankruptcy Court, subsgcjuently described as "a letter of incredible crue^y." She remarked, among other things, that the rev. gentleman's letter was discourteous, adding: "I have not had £ 15.000, nor is your name the least incen- tive to anyone to lend, as you are known to owe a great deal. I merely asked you for it be- cause it gave confidence to Lord Byron. Another of Mrs Ivingscote's escapades was tho) marriage of her sister-in-law, Mrs Marie Stephanie Drummond Wolff, to Major W. A. 'Adams, in 1394 At the time the lSCiy was 45, and was on the verge of bankruptcy Mr3 Kinte came to Major Adams, and, describ- ing the state of the lady's affairs, asked him to save her by marrying her. How this was to effect the lady's financial salvation is not very clear. But the notion appealed to Major Adams. The major saw the lady for the first time in his life on November 1st, 1894. and on November 7th he married her. It was arranged tha, they should not live together, and he left, for India to re-join his regiment. 'l'he bride was good enough, however, to writfc her hus- band the following letter :— "Myi dear William,—I want you to have this letter to show in case at any time there should b?, '.n,,].rstand 'n?, and that *t .3h.uld be MIZ thotl,-ht that VOU ?istionou rably had L)4haved to mo. The marriage which took place between, us on November 7th. '94, was arranged by Mrs Howard Kingscote before y had seefi me or I you. It was undertaken to sa.ve me frcm the effects of a crime I had committed. At f, i a, time I was heavily in debt I was threatened irs 1..11 bankruotoy, and also with worse trouble, as, for the sake of Mrs Howard Kingscotc, I had committed perjury. The only way for me c' 1-c! E,XPCILZTCI. and the, of tlif?Oo troubles fur me to marry at onc". At the •request of Mrs Howard Kingscote, and with my consent, you went through the marriage <ere- marlY with me. I did it to save. myself, but I have never been your wife except, in name. ,You sacrificed yourself for me, and I undertook ne\er to ask you to support me. You have t.0 behaved in a perfectly honourable way to me throughout our acquaintance, and I can never tliank you, enough or be grateful to yow enough for the sacrifice you have made for me. I hope ho one will ever misunderstand the facts of the case which 1 have stated here, and which actu- all,: occurred.—I am. "STEPHANIE" Tb#t her gratitude was not mere empty words the lady proceeded to prove by supplying mat- erials for a divorce..When, in 1899, Major Adams obtained a divorce, Mr Justice Buck- nill said that, though his oonduct was "quixotic," it was no inconsistent with that of an English gentleman- One of the most extraordinary affairs attri- buted to Mrs Kingscote is connected with the marriage of an earl to the daughter of a Re- gent-street modiste. The modiste was inclu-ed to receive the earl into his family in settlement of the match-maker's bill for dressmaking, so the story runs.

Prison Commissioners and Directors in their sunuaj report state that the total number re- ceived into the local prisons of England and .Wales was 196,233, a diminution of 3049 com- pared with tlid previous year. ^On Saturday night, Mrs Saj-ah Davies, agied £ 2 years, a widow, who lived at Half-way Cot- tage. Holway, llolvwoll, fell downstairs and diod as a result shortly afterwards. She had been in ill health of late, and had been medi- cally attended-

HOW SOME WOMEN MAKE MONEY. We now live in an age of feminine finance, and we have for once copied our one-time mas- ters, and gone in hot and strong for i,he busi- ness of commissions. ?es ti-?o n-bo(I-orn ivo.-ntn n-t-,Lnceuvreci In most ca., the matter through her favou-rito tradespeople. The motor industry is a happy hunting- !on on c ground ;and th, c,,nrniss' sciki t4roLigh wonlanlv infl.?,iinoe s<).(-on rilo?.int-A tip in a, n,?-rry inanner. Titen, thi2 3Llol)s for (ires.3 and fancy articles are also most productive and these include jewellers, d rcss, boot- makers, hairdressers, and photographers—even the French laundress is sometimes pressed into the business- GOWNED FREE OF CHARGE. It .eems an open secret that many smart woinen are gowned free of charge, ov, Ito the number of new land paying) Ul,tolr.ors that they recommend or introduce to they dress- makers. Or, at the least, a b Ig of 50rper cent.—is taken off their bills as a mark of gratitude for "favours received." Then, if Lady Larkawav recommends her tame jeweller to Mrs Goldstein, and the latter promptly orders a round orown of diamonds, the obliging tradesman at once r 'ses to the siituation. He presents a bangle or muff-chain, or else sends his bill receipted in return for such a profitable introduction. And the same game goes on at the milliner's, who either supplies hats gratis, or cfeo sells at cost-price the latest Paris models. So the world wags; and many a smart womsn geta her wardrobe gratis, and 60 makes a fat profit out of Let- friends' needs and extravagances. MEALS FOR NOTHING. And the system is applied with equal success to matters of food and of furniture. A society woman eats many a free meal at an hotel or restaurant because she recommends the place; or, best of all, writes it up in the newspapers. And in the same way she receives fine fruit from the fruiterer's, a dainty fish from the con- fectioner's, or a present of wine from her wine merchant. And money can be picked up by other methods, which serve the same purpose as a commission. Most of Us study art, and are expert judges of curios and bric-a-brac. A clever woman makes friends with an art dealer, goes to his shop, samples his wares, and charms him by her easy manner and keen intelligence. The next move is to bring him a good number of rich and generous customers. And so the trick is done; and the fair lady receives as her reward a Louis XV. table or a Sheraton sideboard, or else gets her own boudoir or drawing-room furnished free, gratis, and for nothing. And Mrs Neish, in her clever book, "The Ways of Lady Isabel," tells a story of how a smart woman did business under the cloak of charity: "She owned an old curiosity-shop, but passed it off as the property of a poor friend; and then, as an apparent kindness, supplied her with goods (most- ly faked) and sent her customers by the dozen." In fact, a rich harvest can be reaped by means of pictures and bric-a-brac. More than one society lady acts as saleswoman for West End art dealers. BOGUS HEIRLOOMS. Old pictures and bits of good furniture are got from their shops, arranged in her house, described as heirlooms, and sold at a fancy price to her innocent and confiding acquaintances. After which "deal" a handsome commission is received from the Bond-street tradesman. And the same practices may be carried on among professionals. A clever but unknown artist can be recommended to one's friends, and then a lovely portrait of oneself will be painted by way of recompense. Or introductions can be given to a younger singer, who, as a return, will sing at evening-parties or at teas on Sunday afternoon. This somehow leads up to the subject of bazaars. Often, of course, they are beyond re- proach, and all is arranged in a straightfor- ward manner- But weird tales have gone the rounds as to lotteries, missing jewels, and great sales and small profits. Ah, well I in these days charity begins at home—and covers a multitude of sins. Before I end up. a word shall be said on the price paid for social introductions. Those in the know are well aware that muoh cash changes hands on these occasions. lady Pursang pre- sents Mrs Newmarch at Court, and, later on, sends out oards for her ball or concert. And we note that after this the Pursang family are once more in their own house in Mayfair, or that her ladyship has new jewels or a new automobile. Such favours as these are, how- ever, often paid in kind rather than in ready money. The smart lady stays for weeks on end at her rich friends' country houses, or she stops with them in Paris or at Monte Carlo, or else goes for a long trip in their 800-ton steam yacht. And she is made free of their opera- box, and had the loan of their motor-cars. WHY NOT THE SIMPLE LIFE? Indeed, things have come to such a pass that, many of us are afraid to introduce a friend, sell a ohdna cup, or reoommend a dressmaker- Well, everyone must play their own hand and work out their own (financial) salvation. But, to my mind, the betwr way is to lead the "simple life," or—If we must go tha pace—to iet one's brains force on one'3 bank balance. For these modern methods lack honour and honesty, and make one inclined to endorse Meredith's remark "Women will be the last tiling to be civilised."

DANCIXG SUFFRAGETTE. MRS DRUMMOND GIVES THE HIGHLAND FLING OUTSIDE HOLLOWAY PRISON. Her militant co-workers gave a Highland vvoicomo to Miss Mary Phillips, one of the suffragettes, on her release from Ilollowav Gaol. To the music of -pipers in Caledonian cos- tume, she was drawn m a vehicle by a team of suffragettes from the prison gates to the Queens Hall, where she Wat; entertained to are a *cf us t. The vehicle in which Miss Phillips made her triumphal journey was decorated with white and purple heather and thistles, a banner being placed in front with the warning words, "To Mr Assuith. Ye inauna tramp on the Scotch thistle, la.ddie." Mrs Drummond, in Royal Stuart tartan, with Glengarry bonnet surmounted by the black cock's feather, managed t.o get admitted into the yard at HollO\vay, where she danced the Highland fling to the huge enjoyment of the policemen on duty.

Lord Morlev, Secretary for India, has ap- proved a proposal that India shall pay an extra £ 300,000 to the War Office towards the cost of the Army. Canon Singleton was on Monday, at St. Joseph's Church, Seaeombe, consecrated Roman Catholio Bishop of Shrewsbury in succession to the late Dr. Allen.

? —?————?- ? -?—? The Gwa!ia Hosiery Co., Ltd., HOLYWELL, North Wa)es. ? t <??L——?\?-J\?——T??L? REAL WELSH FLANNEL SHIRTS, PANTS, ? -—— VESTS, BLOUSES, SHAWLS, { ?? ? ? TURNOVERS, etc., etc., ? ALSO MAKERS OF THE WELL-KNOWN tt ? ?NATIONAL" and "LLEWELLYN" Shirts ?nd Shirting. }j } PRICES AND SAMPLES ON APPLICATION, j) ??=======-?=====M?????&?=?!

A CHARMING GOWN. With a view to autumn and winter require- ments for indoor afternoon wwjr I am giving you this week a. charming afternoon gown specially designed by u-ur artist for my readers" requirements. This pretty gown, though so r smart and dainty in effect, is by no means ex- pensive, and if mcido with detachable sleeves and vost for cleaning purposes would wear rigihi. tlirougii the autumn and winter. The I materia] in which it is intended to be carried cut j a very soft and supple caslunerc of a delightful tone of (mushroom brown. The bodice, which is slightly reminiscent of the pma- fore style, is cut rather low over the shouldors, and is split down the front to within a short distance of the waist. The edges are finished by two Minute, orossfolds, or rather rolls, cif mushroom brown satin In cither side of the opening in front come- four satin buttons em- I brojdored watih tarnished gold. Above the bodice comes a square-necked, vest of some heavy guipure in a soft I vo ry tone—Irish crochet would be particularly charming—or, if liked, hoavy tilct lace lightly embroidered in tones of mushroom and faint bluo with a touch off tar- I titi?y nlib,-d -c,,d. Al,,ov?, tl)lg a chemisett e of finely tucked Brussels net ill exactly the same slwide as the guipure. The sloev "9 <-g tnvo na?crow abo%,f) 2c,ti of iq fiiil,,Iod at the. t?h,-? Ott-or, 11 edge 1-Y the double picings of satin. From be- neath those ovor-skeves come dainty wristlong sleyves of net, tucked to match the vest. The skirt is perfectly plain, very Ion, and slightly trained at the back. A waistband of mush- room-brown satin completes the pretty frock. A pal 3 blue brooch otf knot of ribbon at the throat and :t paie blue ribbon threaded through f'h» hair and tied in a smart bow on the loft side would form a fitting finish to this c'narmieg toilette. BUCKLES VERY FASHIONABLE, We seem to be on the verge of another rage for buckles of every kind as c-nament for bar. gowns, and even blouses. Some of these buakles are really beautiful, and many, alas cost such a considerable a.mount that the Hat or ihoy adorn has its prioo very appre- ciably enhanced by tiheir presence. Some- of tho prettiest are made of dull go-ld imetai en- crusted with big bosses of imitation pink coral. Others, equally attractive, a re plain ovals of transluce-nt cmamel in a colour that corresponds or oontmsts. well with the hat they are intended to adorn. Another very modisSi buckle is made of dull oxydised silver, of metal that passes as suoh, studded with pieces of lapis-lazuli, tur- quoise, or malaoliite. Some extremely smart c ,x"t p -?!r or in Ir?s ,.L,re rriadi?,- of birni,,ih-k-d copp gtc?el, either plain or set with pieces of enamel, imita- t'on pr(,cic,us stones, or jet. T?-o great d,,7aw- i ?ck to tho,3 la-,t-n-ani,-d buckles, how,-ver, is t ?hat tl.,ey apt tj (t'is--olctir a,,id rtist l?, Nvaj-n much in the open air in wet weather; conse- quentlv they are not the (most serviceable things few a hat. A WORD ABOUT SLEEVES. A great many of the new evening and after- noon gowns of the moro dressy type are made with sleevo. of a contrasting' ,material to that. of the gown. For instance, a oashmere frock will have sleeves of satin, velvet, dyed not on lace, or taffetas. Many of theoo contrasting sleeves are very elaborate, being swathed round the arm and caught front slwvulder to wrist down the back to the arm by buttons of varying magnificence. The narrow double boll-sleeves are just as popular as ever. They are usually completed by a swathed or tuoked undersleevo of net or some similar transparent material. I PRETTY AFTERNOON FROCK OF MUSHROOM- J BROWN CASHMERE. ]

A SMART NEW SKIRT AND SOME ETCETERAS. I J Our sketch this week is a little bit suggestive Of a collection of odds and ends, but the little etceteras of dress are such a very important part of one's attire just now that I thought my readers would be interested to hear of the latest 4T n(,-Velties i,i es,,3 accK?ssDries. W.0 W. I -"in with the piece de resistanc??, i I bt the skirt. This is quite the newest and smart- 0311 thing in walking skirts, and is both practi- cal and becoming. It is really a two-piece sheath skirt, and has a seam down' the centre of botih front and baok. The front seam con- stitutes the opening, and is buttoned from top to bottom with buttons covered with material to match the skirt, the entrance being effected by simply opening a few of the top buttons. A little below the haps the buttoned seam is stitched fast, so that there is no tear of its be- ing suddenly and embarrassingly opened from top to bottom. This design Id look v-ory wc)tl well oarrl'cd out in cloth, ca,,?ilijnere,. Fyei-o.,e, frik?ze, ec4rdurov velvctekn, or fan,?--v worst-,ed.?, It is a p?artioulaxly simple- pattern to make u-p, and should specially reocmimcnd itself to the ama- teur. Up in the left-hand corner we have one of the most fashionable coat-skcves of the autumn. Aft you will observe, it has a very of fulness/ at the shoulder, is of full-length, and is spkt up nearly to the elbow at the back of the arm, the opening being- buttoned from top to bottom by small buttons covered wit'h the material of the coat. A lina of machining fin- ishing the edges of this opening and the bot- tom of the sleeve. In the opposite corner is another very mcdis-h coat-sleeve. This model is set into the shoulder without any fulness at all, exactly like a man's coat-sleeve, and is finished at the wrist by a smart little turn back cuff faced with velvet or satin. I iet ween the sleeves is one of the new buckks so much used just now for the adornment of hats and frocks. The buckle is oblong, quito the most popular shape, and is made of bright brick-red enamel of translucent clearness, fin- ished all round with a raised rim of dull sil- vered metal. This same design is carried out in turquoise blue, emerald and myrtle green, deep purple and dark blue. Below are sketched two of the fa.ihiomVe hatpins which play such an important part in modish chapeauix. The hatpin on the left is an enormous rounded piece of roughly shaped imi- tation pearl, which is enriched bv dull gold metal work, carried out in a charming design of leaves and berries. The other hatpin is a huge disc of turquoise blue enamel, covered by a network of raised lines of dull silver, and edged with an orna- mented rim of similar metal. A big imitation pearl finishes the centre of this fascinating hat- pin.

A NEW RUFFLE. A pretty new ruffle for autumn and winter wear has just made its appearance upon the modistic horizon. It is made of some thin soft fur such as beaver, mink, mole, seal, or ermine, and is arranged in a series of wide box- pleats all round the neck. These pleats are caught down in the middle by a thick roll of velvet, and stand well out on each side of the face. The finishing touch is given by a box- pleated inner frill of ivory lace, which greatly softens the edge of the ruffle and makes it in- finitely more becoming. These ruffles are ex- tremely smart and effective, but they are only suited to women with reasonably long necks. The short-necked woman will be well-advised to oschew them. I

IS GREEN UNLUCKY p FASHION FAVOURS IT-WOMAN ASKS SHALL SHE WEAR IT. FOR FROCKS AND HATS. Is green unlucky? j Many women are asking the question now that Dame Fashion has decreed that greens of ail kinds aj-e to take a prominent place amongst the many bewildering and beautiful colours of tho approaching autumn and winter seasons. In West End shops greens are shown in every shade, from the palest cau-de-nil to. the deepest emerald. They include moss greens, grass greens, salad and lettuce greens, saga gr,uew, and bottle greens. NOT LIKED ON THE STAG For years women! have been wary of choosing an all-green gown, this feeling been born of a vag-uo idea. that the wearing of green fo e- bodes some ill-luck. Many girls would not even 0 sarr' gr,,en hat for th 'o reason: "All theatrical people condemn green as be- itijg unlucky," said a London actress to a "Daily Mirror" reporter. "They dread a par- ticular colour scheme of green to be included in the upholstery of a scene, or to be intro- duced largely into the dresses. As for deli- berately choosing green to wear on the stage, they would not think of it." West End drapers, with their establishments stocked with all the latest shades of green, which appear in hats, dresses, coats, boas, and trimmings, have anxiously awaited the decision of the world of women as to whether it would acoept the decree of fashion or bow down to old superstition. NAVY BLUES OUSTED. "A few ladies still object to green, thinking it uriltick id .y. Sal a West Etid draifier to the "Daily Mirror," "but it is proved that super- stition counts for nothing when fashion leads by the fact that wo are selling as many green costumes; and coats as of the same garments in browns and other shades. "Dark greens will quite take the place of the hitherto popular navy blue during the com- ing winter." "We are selling more hats in green than in any other shade," an Oxford-street milliner stated, "in fact we are all the time replenish- ing our stock- "There would be a great many unlucky peo- ple in the world this winter if the old super- stition were true."