The Welsh Coast Pioneer and Review for North Cambria

To the Cape via Canada. (BY C. ENGLAND COWAX.) IT seems a long way round to travel to South Africa via Canada. I grumbled c' 'isiderably at first, but since my arrival in Canada have com- pletely changed my mind. Superstition has many pains and penalties for those going to sea on Fridays, but for once in a way fortune—that fickle jade-smiled graciously. I left Liverpool on Friday, February 16th, on the s.s. "Monterey," the transport to convey Lord Strathcona's Horse to the Cape. We left, facing a westerly gale. The Mersey 1 was rough at the bar it was rougher, in the Channel worse still, and so on until we reached Halifax. We dropped the pilot at Point Lynas. The man was not held suspended on the vessel's side and suddenly dropped overboard, but was allowed to crawl down a rope ladder to the small boat beneath waiting for him. The boat in question was emulating a small marine switchback, and in the darkness it seemed no- thing short of a miracle how the pilot and his cockleshell escaped being swamped. Pilots must have the nine regulation lives of a cat. We thought it bad weather before, but we quickly realised what weather really was when we got fairly in the Channel. I was in bed, and my first intimation of anything unusual ocurring was feeling several strong desires to suddenly pitch head first out of my bunk. By a really in- genious device-a series of pillow wedges—I managed to so pack myself in that I escaped falling overboard. Dressing the next morning was a work of art and much labour, one of the minor difficulties being in catching my boots, which appeared to have been attacked with a violent fit of St. Vitus's Dance. Breakfast re- quired more art to get than one would imagine. Porridge is good in a way, but when you take milk, and call it cream, you have to be a skilled equilibrist. I watched the officers of the "Mon- terey," and, of course, did as they did-held the soup plate in my hand, and after a few minutes' practice was able to gather in an occasional spoonful, for both milk and porridge made fran- tic efforts-first to fling themselves on my knees, then to scatter themselves over the luckless man opposite. The porridge business I found, how- ever, was a mere trifle to the difficulty in con- trolling the peculiar and erratic movements of a cup of coffee and some ham and eggs. It was interesting as a first real experience, but uncom- monly slow work for a hungry man. It isn't pleasant either to see your eggs suddenly leap over the rack and deposit themselves in all their squashed glory on someone else's plate. This sort of thing went on at every meal. A snapshot of the scene would give a stranger the impres- sion that each person seated at table suspected his neighbour with having felonious intentions on some tit-bit not his own. We had to guard everything with such watchful care. The sea passage was a very bad one, but nobody on board was very bad in the way of "mal de mer." Personally, I never had a qualm, but seemed to do practically nothing but eat and drink, play chess or poker, and learn the banjo, the latter under difficulties, as may be imagined. I must put in a word of praise for the Mon- terey," despite the fearful seas that banged and bumped against her, she kept her way steady and sure-steadv under the circumstances. A bad sea boat would have had a difficulty in keeping her course. The officers on board, too, I must thank, for they were very kind. Your readers will learn with pleasure that the captain is a Welshman-Captain H. Parry, from Carnarvon way. When off the banks of Newfoundland the tem- perature suddenly dropped forty degrees, and straight away we ran into fog. Fog just there is what a sailor fears, it being the great region for icebergs. Fortunately, we were steered clear of the floating palaces. We arrived at Halifax at 1.15 a.m. on Monday, the 28th. The morning was fine and bracing but not sufficiently tempting to stay on deck. Of course, our first enquiry was about the war, and cheers were given as the good news was re- tailed. I cannot say that I was much impressed with the first view of Halifax, and I certainly have not been in the place long enough to know it better. Possibly on my return I will have more time. I left Halifax at 3.30 that afternoon, or, as the intercolonial railway guide has it, 14.30. After our train, these seem strange. The coaches are better than ours in some ways, but the track— the permanent way from Halifax to Quebec-is simply awful. Our train managed to keep the rails, which surprised me considerably, and only for my experience of difficulties on shipboard at night, I should certainly have given the rail- way credit for the finest rocking I ever received. I travelled with a Captain Crighton, of Montreal. He is doing the alterations on the "Monterey." We dined and breakfasted on board, and finally got to St. Levis at 2.30. The St. Lawrence was partially frozen over, and we crossed in a wooden ferry-boat, amidst a variety of cattle, horses, goods, and baggage. Arrived at Quebec, we were hailed by an army of fur-clad sleigh drivers, nearly all French Can- adians, possibly men of great integrity; but a finer set of befurred cut-throats I never beheld. We engaged one of these gentry, and after see- ing our baggage safely stowed away, we were enveloped in bear skins, and whirled away at a break-neck pace. Up steep hills cr down makes no matter to the average Canadian horse. He never falls, and trots over the hard, slippery snow with confidence. Quebec is a quaint old city-a mixture of ancient and modern, English and French- although, as far as population goes, the latter are much stronger. The same at Montreal and Ottawa. Further north it is English, and a real Canadian never tires telling you the fact. The province of Quebec wanted snow. The lumber logs could not be got to the river without a good "white mantle," and there had been no snow worth speaking of all winter. This we were told as soon as we reached the hotel- Chateau Frontenac-the finest hotel in Canada. It is a most picturesque-looking pile, standing high above the winding St. Lawrence, and com- manding a magnificent view. I hired a sleigh after luncheon and drove about. My jehu being loquacious and a good guide, I saw and realised much. On the Wednesday morning came the long- wanted snow. A gale from the N.E. blew the flakes into snow-dust, which drifted and swirled about in fantastical little rushes. In the after- noon, tired of being indoors-Canadians having their hotels, houses, and trains, street cars, and shops heated to an insufferable high temper- ature-I tried to get to the Houses of. Parlia- ment, but could not face the snow. At night, however, I made the second attempt. Three members and myself started off in a sleigh. We had a lovely appearance when we managed to get indoors—the back way, if you please. The snow had frozen on our coats, and had to be hit off, like so much ice. I had a good time, and was very much amused at the mixture of English and French, and the wild frenzy of some of the latter over a trifle was worth seeing. We left the house at ten-past eleven. The wind had risen, and so had the snow. Huge drifts, 20 feet high, surrounded the building, and men banged with it to force a passage. There was only one sleigh, and the jehu would only take two passengers. Naturally, we put the two old ones in, while the solicitor of the Canadian Pacific Railway and myself started to walk. Our journey occupied 45 minutes-a distance of 100 yards only. Most of the journey was done on hands and knees. Twice we were blown bang into a drift. You could not see a thing in front; the snow was blinding. Half-way we came across a belated street car snowed up. Then we had to cross an open space. Three times we were hurled back, and we had a little council of war, and decided to try and wriggle across on our stomachs, and that is how we got to the arches of the chateau. It was the worst blizzard ever known in Que- bec,—and it appears Quebec is noted for its storms. I was snowed up. No sleigh; no street cars; no trains. I have since visited Montreal and Ottawa, which I will describe again. At the present moment I am between Ottawa and Montreal in another snow-storm. The train is making valiant efforts to get out of a snow- drift, but in vain. We are snowed up. (To be Continued.)

Letters from the Seat of War "De Aar, Cape Colony, Wednesday, Feb. 28th, 1900. "Dearest Mother,—I can imagine how glad you all are to hear of Cronje's surrender. Prisoners are now coming through in large numbers. We have 500 of the City Imperial Volunteers in camp, but I believe they are preparing to march out to l'rieska. We have many bad cases in hospital now; serious wounds and bad fevers. The hospital is very full, many cases having to be placed in tents and marquees. About 8-30 last evening, we heard such tremendous cheering all over camp so I said to B-: Do let us go and see wheat it means it must be Lady- smith relieved,' so we went to the station, and when we got there we found a train had arrived with Lord Kitchener. That was what all the cheering was for. Immediately I got on the station I saw about a dozen wounded soldiers. I went up to them, and asked them if they were from our hospital? They said, 'Yes, we have been patched up a bit here, and are now going down to Wynberg. I asked them what they were doing there at that time, and the said they were ordered to be on the station at 8-30, to go by the mail train. Now the mail train leaves at four in the morning, and there those poor creatures were, sick and wounded (for they were all ban- danged up), and would have to sit until four in the morning. I call it downright cruelty. Three of them had lost their overcoats, and the wind had just begun to blow cold. Oh, I felt so sorry for them, and their faces looked so pale I said, "I am afraid you will have to sit here a long time, as your train does not go for so many hours.' Their faces looked very blank at this, but one big fellow looked at the others, and said, 'Never mind, boys; it's got to be faced, so let's make up "our minds, and put up with it.' I thought it so good of him, and I can assure you it meant no joke to a sick man. I asked them if thev would like a cushion each to help make them more comfortable. The said, yes, so B- and I came home and gave them one each, but I felt as if I should have to bring them home and make them comfortable, but you know how stringent all soldiers' rules are, and they had been told to sit there, and there was a hospital orderly in charge of them. One lad who looked scarcely 18, looked very ill. A shot had gone in under one shoulder and came out over his heart, and he spoke so cheerfully about his being very lucky. When I got home, I asked B-- if he had seen Lord Kitchener? He said, 'Yes, didn't you? he stood just behind vou,' but I was too much taken up with the sick men's troubles to notice anything. Don't you think matters might be made a little different to this? They had their rifles with them, and it looked so strange to me to see a man with his arm in a sling carrying a rifle. Lord Roberts has issued an order that no soldier in action should use a white handkerchief, for fear it should be mis- construed by the enemy for the white flag. The men are using red or dark blue ones when they have one at all. "A major here who is just back from Kim- berley tells a good tale. One of the Lancasters, while out skirmishing was charging a Boer with his lance. The Boer dropped on his knees (as is their usual plan when hard pressed), and put up his hands for mercy, saying as he did so, 'Muni, muni' ('Don't, don't). The Lancashire lad did not understand Dutch, so he answered, 'I don't want your money; I want your life,' and he settled him. I wish somebody would send a few pairs of slippers for the men—ever such cheap ones would do for them to shuffle about in, and that is what most of their walking amounts to. Pillowslips and sheets they greatly need, in the fever wards in fact, they need any- thing and everything. It is astonishing what it takes to make them even fairly comfortable. "Thursday. "There are several Canadians in hospital one is very badly wounded, shot through the jaw and tongue, poor fellow he could not swallow yesterday. These have come from the battle of Paardeberg. I could have given away any num- ber of shirts and socks if I had had them, ever so many of the men having no socks and no shoes. One made me laugh; he was hopping round using a broom for a crutch, and he said, 'If you could only get me some needles and a bit of wool, I will soon put a sock on my gored foot;' so I have been turning out my belongings to find him what he wanted. I have given away nearly all 13-s spare clothes, and all he says when I ask can I have them for the sick is, 'Yes, take them if you like, only don't come back with a long face.' As you may guess, I had a long talk with the Canadians. If possible, I am going to see them this afternoon. One called out to 11 me and said he was a 'Bluenose so I called back, 'So am I.' He looked pleased so I must look him up specially. Their chief wants seem to be shirts, socks, and underclothing of any descrip- tion. One wounded man there has a galvanised jug he took out of Cronje's tent, and he said, 'I mean to take that home if I have to hang it round my neck.' The men tease him over it, and he told me that another soldier had a tin of Swiss milk out of the same tent. When the battle was over several of the wounded between them managed to make some tea—(you know soldiers' resources)—and one of them said, 'This would be all right if we had some milk to put in it.' So the man who had the milk out of Cronie's tent was lying there wounded, and he said, 'One of you feel in my haversack, and you will find a tin I took out of old Cronje's tent.' They did so, but a shot had come right through the tin, and every drop of the milk was gone. The men were disappointed. Cronje went through here in the middle of the night. We all wanted to have a look at him, but failed. They are send- ing the ordinary Boer prisoners down in cattle trucks, with barbed wire stretched over the open- ings. One Boer whilst here put out his hand and snatched at a pannikin of tea that was offered him, with the result that he badly tore his arm on the wire. So he got a practical illus- tration of what they have made our poor men suffer. The Boer brutes are now putting verdi- gris on their bullets it is being served out to them for that purpose. Isn't it dreadful? Some Boer prisoners were passing our house in the train this morning, and a group of men stood near looking at them, and one of these men called to the Boers, 'Now you've got Majuba we're paying you out a bit.' The prisoners go through here in hundreds. I cannot imagine what they will do with them all; it will be quite an undertaking to guard so large a number. "Friday. "I have been having a long talk this afternoon with the wounded men from the Paardeberg battle, and they tell me that many of our men lost their lives through thirst. One man they found was not quite dead, but his tongue was so swollen, they could not get any liquid down his throat. When they found him his tongue hung g down to his chin, and was quite black. The way the majority lost their lives through thirst was because the Boers held the river, and our men fought until they were within 120 yards of the water, and they then seemed to have lost their heads, for they rushed forward anyhow, and the Boers shot them down. Poor lads how cruelly they must have suffered. The Canadians tell me that they could not get a drop of water after the battle. Their lips were all black and swollen for want of it. I knew what a cruel thing a march in this country would be for our men; they must have suffered tortures. The mail is in, and I have had two letters from you, I am glad to say. Several letters and parcels from ladies in England have arrived also. One lady sent some soft caps for the men, and they seemed so glad of them when I took them down. They have lost hats, shoes, towels, and their shirts and socks are either dirty or worn out. In fact, there is no end to their real wants, and they deserve everything that is given them; they are so brave and cheerful. I often wish I was rich to buy them the little necessities. One soldier is being sent from this hospital to Wyn- berg to-night, and he hasn't a hat to wear. I have promised to try and find him one. You would not believe unless you were amongst them how many things they need—absolute necessi- ties. There are about 30 tents and marquees full of sick and wounded here, besides the large hospital, and they have to make room for 100 more to-morrow. I am so glad of all the parcels that come from England, for if it is ever so tiny, it comforts somebody, and I give all away my- self, except in the fever wards, and those I send to the nurses, for at last the authorities have allowed six, and the men badly need them. The wounded only have the orderlies to attend them, and this afternoon an orderly told me that it took hours to dress the men's wounds in one ward alone. Have not time to finish my letter. "MAUBK." ♦

Vale of Clwyd Agricultural Society. Next Year's Show. Another Royal Visit Anticipated. THE annual meeting of the members of this society was held at the Eagles Hotel, Llanrwst, on Tuesday, under the presidency of Mr T. R. Jones. It was decided to hold this vear's show on Thurs- day, the 2nd of August. The desirability of in- creasing the prizes in the jumping contests was discussed. At the last show the prizes offered for the best jumpers were-ist, Cl- 2nd, ^8 and 3rd, ^3. After a long discussion, it was decided to collect donations to increase the premiums in these classes, and upwards of 15 guineas have already been promised. It was stated that in all proba- bility Royalty would be entertained at the Castle during that month.

Death and Funeral of the Rev. Principal Edwards, D.D., of Bala. As briefly mentioned in our last issue, the above- named eminent Welsh divine and scholar, who was doubtless the most profound theologian Wales ever produced, died at Bala on Thursday morning. The remains were on Tuesday interred at Aber- ystwyth. The body was in the morning conveyed to Bala College, which was crowded by students and sympathetic friends, and a brief service was conducted by the Rev Howell Hughes, Professor Williams, and Professor Davies. A great proces- I sion was afterwards formed to the railway station, consisting of students, ministers and clergy, mem- bers of the medical profession, representatives of Aberystwyth, Bangor, and Cardiff Universities, magistrates, county and corporation bodies, &c. The body of Principal Edwards was brought to Aberystwyth by the train due to arrive at 2-30. An hour or so previous the special train from Birken- head arrived, bringing a large number of students and friends from Bala and other parts of North Wales. The procession was headed by the clergy, among whom were the Ven. Archdeacon Protheroe, the Rev Predendary Williams, the Rev Griffith Ellis, Bootle the Rev T Levi, Aberystwyth the Rev Penllyn Jones, librarian, College of Wales Pro- fessor Ellis Edwards, Bala Dr Morriss, Aber- ystwyth, representing the Welsh Baptist Union. In all there were nearly 100 ministers. These were followed by Mr David Samuel, head- master, and staff, with a dozen pupils of the County School old students of the Aberystwyth College Principal Reichel, of Bangor, representing the University Court of Wales male and female students of Aberystwyth College, numbering about 350, and a large number of Bala theological stu- dents Principal T. E. Roberts, of Aberystwyth College. The general public were strongly represented, all the leading officials of the town and country, together with all the tradesmen, were either present or represented, and nearly every county in Wales had some one or other in official attendance. There were no decorations on the grave, everything being simple in character. The Rev T. Levi read the burial service, which throughout was conducted in the Welsh language, and he was followed by Professor Ellis Edwards, of Bala, who prayed. The Welsh hymn Tragwyddoldeb mawr yw Dy enw," was given out by the Rev Pennllyn Jones, and the singing was led by Mr David Jenkins. In the evening the memorial service was preached at the Tabernacle Chapel by the Rev Griffith Ellis, of Bootle, when there was a crowded congregation. 4

—— It is believed that the opposition to Mr Lloyd-George's obtaining the use of the Penrhyn Hall, Bangor, the only hall suitable for a largely- attended political meeting, has been withdrawn, and Mr Lloyd-George's visit is expected to take place on April nth. A good deal of talk has been devoted in the last week or two to the noisy scenes likely to be witnessed on the occasion of the forthcoming public appearance of the mem- ber for Carnarvon Boroughs in his own constitu- ency, but it seems probable that he will receive a cordial and respectful hearing.

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