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(larktttttg. If any reader who is in difficulty with reference to his garden, will write direct to the ad- dress given bene th, his queries will be an. swered, free of charge, and by return of post. —EDITOKI Some correspondents omit to add their names, or merely end with initials. In these cases it is obviously impossible to reply.—E.K.T. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN IN JANUARY. GENERAL. Wheel out mannre during frost, but keep off the land while it is soft after rain. Push on all preparatory work, such as the trenching of spare plots and making ready of rich beds for peas and beans. It must be home in mind that the rougher land can be thrown up before frost, so much the greater will be its fertility. GLOBE ARTICHOKES. The young leafage should be slightly earthed up. and covered with some dry, light litter, which must be removed in April, when the ring of earth should h3 drawn away, a dossing of rotten manure applied, and the beds forked over without injuring the roots. ASPARAGUS. Beds should be well manured now, but it is better not to fork the manure in. BEANS. Broad beans may be sown towards the end of the month on warm, rich borders in double rows tnree feet asunder, placing the two lines forming each double row nine inches distant from one another, arranging the seeds about seven inches apart for the plants to come alter- nately, and using a quart to 25 feet. Cover with three or four inches of good soil. CABBAGES. Continue planting out whenever weather per- mits. Spare plots are always usefully ern. ployed under crops of cabbages, as these veget- ables are generally acceptable at any season. CAULIFLOWERS. Make a first sowing in boxes on a gentle hot- bed or. under a cool frame in a very warm corner, using an ounce of seed to four square yards in shallow drills 10 inches apart. The produce will be ready for planting out in April. CRESS. Make successional smaH sowings of cress in boxesunder glass, using an ounce of seed to 1 square yards. Cover thinly with fine soil, or else press the seed down firmly, and lay a sheet of glass over each box or pan till germination is accomplished. Cut the produce directly it is fit for use and while each stem is plump, green, and tender. Too thick sowing often re suits in 'damping off' The young seedlings commence to decay near the surface of the soil in rings, and the disease spreads with great rapidity. Admit air freely to the plants; water moderately only. keeping the surface as dry as possible and, above everything, change the soil for each crop. CUCUMBERS. Cucumbers do best in turfy or peat loam, with some admixture of leaf mould. Early crops are, of course, specially valuable. Sow the seeds two inches deep, about a month be- fore the plants are required, in pots or pans of light, rich, turfy loam, on a hot-bed or in a sunny corner of the greenhouse. In the latter case the pobs or pans must be covered with slates until germination is accomplished. For house culture it is customary IjO cover the hot- water pipes with large inverted pans, and these in turnlwith slates and a bed of strawy manure and leaves. Lightly cover the whole with soil, and heap up mounds of turfy loam every five feet along the bed. Raise the heat to about 75 degrees, with a minimum night temperature of 60 degrees; and plant out a strong young cu. cumber, or sow several seeds, in each head. Treat as advised beneath for frame culture, save only that the side shoots and fruiting stems require stopping, while the plants, of course, must be trained up wires or strings at least a foot from the glass. Once a fortnight top-dress the mounds with a layer of warm soil, and keep the walls and passages frequently damped. In frames preserve a day tempera- ture of 80 degrees, and a night heat of 60 de- grees. If a little air can be admitted through the whole day without the temperature falling below that specified, it will be very beneficial. Always keep a can of warmfwater in the corner of the frame, so that it may become of the same temperature as the plants. Syringe both foliage and frame twice or thrice daily, and never permit the roots to become dry under. neath. Give air and water in proportion as the temperature rises and falls, decreasing the supply in cold or bad weather, and increasing it as the heat becomes greater. When the plants have made four leaves, pinch out the tip, and treat the new shoots then produced in a similar manner, when they in turn have each a like number of leaves. After this, nothing ingthe way of stopping or training is necessary beyond the occasional removal of crowded or old shoots and leaves, pegging down unruly vines to cover the bed, and stopping each fruit ing stem at the second leaf beyond the fruit. Hand fertilization is usually essential. As often as the roots show on the surface, give a top dressing of good loam. HORSE RADISH. Roots should be planted early in spring, twelve inches apart, the crowns being just be- neath the surface of the ground. Those with. out crowns must be placed a little more deeply. Thoroughly trenched, rich, and rather moist soils are best. LETTUCE. Make small sowings in pans in a greenhouse or frame to provide plants for putting out during April. Prick out the seedlings as early as possible into frames or boxes of light, rich soil. MUSTARD. Treat white mustard as advised for cress, re- membering that the former arrives at maturity a week before the latter. PEAS. Early outdoor cropB may be sown on a warm, sheltered, sloping, south border, in good soil, but for very early dishes seeds must be sown on turves, turned grass side underneath, in frames, or in pots or long shallow troughs un- der glass. Directly the seedlings are visible dust them over lightly with lime and soot mixed, to protect them from slugs, and thin them out to about two inches apart when they are two or three inches high. Early outdoor sowings must be shielded from keen winds, and it is well to support the plants with brushwood when they are three or four inches high. As the seedling appear under glass, air must be given whenever possible, to promote sturdy growth, and it will, of course, be necessary to water occasionally. POTATOES, Towards the end of January pack a number of sets on end closely, one layer deep, in shallow boxes, which must be placed near the glass in a cool conservatory, or in some other light position, where they will be safe from frost. Select a dry. warm, and good border, and, if it be not sheltered by a wall, line it out into ridges six inches high and about two feet apart. The addition of mellow, thoroughly decayed manure and sand will be beneficial. RADISHES. Most acceptable crops can be obtained in ;-any warm and light position, such as a par- tially spent hot-bed. To ensure a good succes- sion, cover about two feet of half decayed stable manure with four or five inches of soil in a frame, so arranged that the surface of the bed is near the glass, and make thin broadcast sowings every two or three weeks. SEA KALE. Cover the plants with proper pots or with a layer of about a foot in depth of clean leaves, kept in position by planks and a little earth. Plants may be forced where growing by cover- ing the beds and sea kale pots with a good layer of fermenting manure. TOMATOES. Sow in sandy soil in a warm house to provide plants for growing under glass. Maintain a temperature of 60 t ) 65 degrees at night, and 75 degrees by day, and prick out the seedlings singly into small pots directly they have made two leaves, E. KEMP TOOGOOD, F.R.H.S., pro Toogood and Sons, The Royal Seed Establishment, Southampton.


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