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(Sitrkmng. [If any reader who isin a difficulty with reference to his garden,, will write directly to the ad- dress given beneath, his queries will be an- swered, free of charge, and by return of post. -EDITORI MARCH. This is just the busiest time of the year for garden work and seed-beds of all kinds must be prepared without delay. In the kitchen garden the seeds of nearly every kind of vege- table may be sown, provided the ground be fairly dry, and not at all pasty. Get together as great a bulk of manure as possible, an4 turn it several times, sprinkling with water if too dry, previous to making it up into a large square bed, when it must be allowed to settle down of itself. Put the frames in their places, and add a foot layer of light rich soil, and in a few days an excellent hot-bed will be ready for successional sowings of whatever it is con- sidered advisable to start under cover. Jeru- salem artichokes can be planted at once in deep, strong soil, whole sets being used if pos- sible. Sow globe artichoke seeds, and clear away the litter from established beds. Keep asparagus free from weeds; and prepare seed- beds on which to make sowings next month. Sow several varieties of cabbage in rich, fresh- ly manured beds, and start the first batch of Brussels sprouts on a warm border. Sow for the main and crops of broad beans, and plant out those which have been broughr on in frames or under glass. Use a frame for the earliest sowing of broccoli, but put out the seedlings directly they are large enough to transplant. It is a little risky sowing carrots before April, but if the weather seems to settle down mildly, a portion of the seeds for the main crop should be put in towards the middle or end of the month. A little protecting material of one kind or another will do wonders. The earliest crop of celery is obtained from small sowing made in a warm frame or house soon, but seed may also be nown in sunny unheated frames in about a fortnight or three weeks' time. If the main crop of parsnips was not sown in Janu- ary, get the seeds in at once in shalluw drills, about 18 inches apart. Make liberal sowings of fine marrow peas, such as the Duke of Albany, but on no account permit the rows to shade one another. Give the selected plots a liberal dressing of manure it will come in for the following crops, celery, etc. Get the prin- cipal potatoes ready for planting at the end of the month or in early April. Perennial herbs can be safely dividedand re-plantednow, and the seeds of most varieties may be sown on a warm, sunny border. Too much spinach cannot well be sown. If more is produced than be con- sumed, it will pay for cultivation when dug in as manure. Perpetual spinach beet is a splen- did variety for deep, rich, and rankly manured soils. The New Zealand sort can be sown to- wards the beginning of April. It is usual to start it in gentle heat. Quite at the end of the month sow good breadths of turnips, and make provision for an abundance of hard winter greens. Plant out strawberries just when they are starting into growth. If plants are wanted to fruit in the open ground, sow an early kind of tomato as soon as possible in well drained pots of firm sandy loam. Cover the seeds with tine soil, and start in a temperature of 65 de- grees. It is time to prepare for frame culture of cucumbers. Place the seeds singly in small pots of good soil in some warm, moist situation, and the seedlings will be ready to put in the frames in about a month's time. When making up the hot-bed, let the manure project from a foot to 18 inches all round the bottom of the frame. Drainage is a most important point. Garlic, shallots, and horseradish must be got in with the greatest expedition, as it is already late. Plant out lettuces from frames, and make extensive sowings of several varieties, since some are sure to run to seed in dry, hot soils. In the flower garden, hardy annuals can be sown this month and in April on a well pre- pared surface, which is neither so line as to be- come pasty when wet, nor yet too rough and cloddy to prevent the seeds germinating, when covered with a very fine layer ef dry soil. The great point in the culture of this class of plants is to prevent overcrowding by early and vi- gorous thinning out. Thinned out very boldly, the seedlings will not only bloom more abun- dantly and brilliantly, but they will rapidly cover large spaces of ground. It is seldom wise to sow until after the middle of March. Asters, stocks, and other hardy plants should be sown at two or three times in well drained seed pans, containing a compost of loam, leaf-mould, and sharp sand, placed in a cool vinery or green- house, or even on a partially spent hot-bed, where a temperature of 55 degrees can be relied on. Zinnia seeds require sowing quite at the end of March under similar conditions; though a temperature of fully 60 degrees is not too high for them. Abundant sowings of mignon- ette, poppies, etc., should be made where the plants are to bloom. Tuberous-rooted begonia seed can still be sown to provide a summer show of bloom and coleus seed can be started in well drained pots in a heat of some 65 de- grees. Calceolaria plants will need moving to larger pots when they begin to show fresh growth. At the end of March or in early April gladiolus corms may be planted in well pre- pared ground. Lobelia seed should be sown at once to produce border plants. Moderate heat is necessary. Many other tender and half- hardy flowers can be sown in gentle heat dur- ing the next few weeks. In the rose garden, the time of pruning all outdoor trees, except. ing teas, is at hand. It will not be safe to re- move winter protecting materials from delicate teas and noisettes, until nearly the end of the month. Planting can be done still if the opera- tion is carefully carried out, and if the trees are kept in water while out of the ground. Be especially careful with the ventilation of rose houses, and fumigate them at the first appear- ance of the aphides. Protect any wall fruit trees which may be coming into blossom, with fronds of fern or branches of spruce, but use as little of either as possible. If the weather continue open, grafting will be commenced just about the end of the month, but the exact time depends entirely on the season. Generally early April is to be preferred. E. KEMP TOOGOOD, F.R.H.S., Pro TOOGOOD & SONS, The Royal Seed Establishment, Southampton.