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GOSSIP ON D: K » R. THE continued prevalence of ungenial east winds has somewhat retarded the display of costume of light fabrics such as are usually looked for at the middle of April. The London modistehowever, are far from being unemployed; and a writer in the queen, in an article on "Dress at the Leadmg Dressmakers,- describes the productions of some of the foremost houses. We make the following extracts: Two morning gowns illustrate useful everyday dresses. Skirt of Sicilienne, of a dark terra cotta tone, over it a tunic of fawn cashmere, covered with a small red brocade in terrv; the back of this tumc was box- plaited, and no under skirt was visible m front it was simply'draped on one side. Pointed bodice of the cashmere. A smoke-coloured silk skirt, over it a dark blue cashmere, with a brocade in red terry; an in- visible plaiting of red at the hem, the stuff plainly draped over the silk, which was arranged in broad plaits where the drapery allowed it to be seen, but not all round. The interminable kiltings and box-plait- ings round the skirts are giving place to greater sim- plicity. For a visiting day dress, a bolder mixture of colouring. Petticoat of buttercup-toned corded silk, over it a dark green peacock cashmere, with a cross- stitch brocade in the buttercup colour no trimming but long looped satin bows. A FEW evening dresses. A peach-coloured tulle made in little plaits, and a drapery of tulle at the back over it a short tunic of peach satin, falling in a I'Ouf only half a yard deep at the back below this, in front, a deep garniture of shaded violets, from the peach tone to the darkest tone of violet forming a point in the centre. White poult de soie silks are now the best fashion, the front quite plain, but cut in tiny battlements at the edge, with tufts of shaded chenille between each, and so arranged as to form slight paniers at the waist, falling at the back a long plain train of pistaechio-coloured velvet an ad- mirable contrast to the white; a white silk butterfly bow of large dimensions at the back of the waist. These butterfly bows and the front breadths draped at the waist are notable features in the best dresses bodice with long, sharp points, and milled at the back. Most dinner gowns have the backs arranged as trains; and in the day dresses the back drapery reaches to the hem. A CREAM embroidered crape is liberally trimmed with Valenciennes, indescribably draped, but so gathered beneath that the fulness falls to the hem. Low down on the skirt are large rosettes of white satin ribbon; it is caught up on the hips en panicr. The bodice is bedizened with crystals; the sleeve ends above the elbow, a transparent pufi'covering the elbow —a new style of sleeve. On many ball gowns there are round bunches of some simple tlower, fastening down the draperv in many places. Red tulle is still most fashionable. The novelty is the front breadth of the richest cut velvet of the same shade-an un- common combination with tulle. Large sprays of red geranium, with variegated leaves, complete this dress. TIIE same writer, adverting to the subject, of millinery, says A black straw bonnet, covered all over with gold net, so transparent, that you can see the straw beneath. On the top a cream net hand- kerchief, lace-edged, and wrought in gold, caught together with very long gold-headed pins. There is one prevailing shape in bonnets, small and close, giving ample room for the hair to be dressed high. the brim coming flat on the head, and generally bordered with beads or loops of gold braid, but with very large upstanding tufts or bouquets on the top, and two small-headed gold pins with gold or onyx heads. The jjarie Stuart shape is new made with A '*r come slightly on one side. Straws are orn. A luscau was composed, not of plaited straw, but tine straw cords radiating from the centre of the crown, and trimmed with dark green velvet; a spray of green bearded wheat on the top—bearded wheat is one of the best worn garnitures. Muslin bonnets are embroidered in gold. A transparent black lace bonnet was an exception to (he prevailing shape; it mid a square crown, lined with gold cloth, a huge cluster of daffodils outride. A soft red straw was so supple, that the straw itself was caught up into plaits at the back and sides. It was lined with brown, and had a bouquet of large Marguerites, marigolds, and yellow heath. These mixed bouquets are much worn. Both hats and bonnets are covered with silk em- broidered crape. IN the same article the following articles of the newest fashion are enumerated Bright red parasols, or rather cn-tout-cas, with carved brown bone handles, long and flat. Shaded velvet tulips of several tones, with leaves, carried down the side of a ball gown. Ostrich feather fans in the form of an arch, with a plume of ostrich and osprey at the side. Bridesmaids' fans in the shape of a half-open one, with handle, and covered with flowers. Palm-shaped fans covered with lace, intermixed with flowers, to match those on the dress. Handkerchiefs with narrow borders, each side of alternative colours, grey and blue, brown and pink. The Muscovite shoe, with one strap, buckled and but- toned over the instep, lined with Suede kid, sewn in white, having holes punctured round the foot. A most serviceable glove, the Castor Suede, much stronger than ordinary Suede, and made with many butt ons. Silk stockings, with real lace insertion in three rows covering the front of the foot. IN a further article on Spring Novelties," the Queen says: Pretty aprons, for morning wear, are of muslin and coloured embroidery, effectively trimmed with Russian lace, the muslin covered with tiny spots of red and blue, or shades of brown on a white or ecru ground. One of muslin of the latter tint was formed of narrow kilts, with one box-plait, arranged on the right side, on which was a pocket adorned with ribbon bows. The kilts were tucked at the bottom, and the apron was surrounded with a frill of muslin, cut in half circles and worked with parti-coloured cotton. In every scollop was a round of blue batiste, and on each was depicted a rural scene, a cottage—a bridge, with trees and flowers outlined in scarlet thread. At the neck was a round collar of twisted red and blue ribbon, and from thence fell a gathered blouse of muslin, turned under, and confined by a band, spreading again as a folded loop, and hanging below the waist the bib of this novel apron was also trimmed with embroidery, and it was fastened far back on the shoulders by butterfly bows of ribbon. Other aprons were trimmed with English open-worked embroidery, nely worked with red or blue silk, the centres being also covered with small sprays of conventional orna- ments treated with coloured silks. (■VITLLACK ^ace> always fashionable, and more so now mnnti6™' enters largely into the composition of all PrePare^ f°r early spring and capes for iacket rrnWtiar't striking novelty is the epaulette beads 'anrl v. • f'k canvas embroidered with stitch' in ifa aTmg J effect of the Russian cross- stitch in it's close-set regular pattern. It is close- fitting, and beautifully cut, and the front has tabs at the edge, bordered with tassels of jet. Across the paniers. The end, a™ jXAf lengths. A cape of black Mirecourt kep from the neck in a pretty curve to the elbows,' hadThe pattern outlined in gold thread and bordered with a netting and fringe of fine chenille, spotted with gold to match. A velvet Guards' collar surrounded the neck, with upstanding frill of lace and in front were stole ends of velvet, reaching below the waist, and finished with chenille fringe. TiiE Paris correspondent of the same journal says that a few evening parties have taken place lately. At the Comtesse Aimerj de Larochefoucauld's last reunion the Duchesse de Mouchy was present m a white gauze dress studded with silver spots; low bodice draped with white satin; a diamond necklet that formed a grecque between two rivieres, and filled the throat as closely as a band of velvet; the comb was ornamented with a smaller grecque; a 5jngle large diamond at each ear. The Comtesse de ourtales, who was much complimented on the marriage of her son with Mile. Cottier, wore n Te dress with low bodice, trimmed in the a style, which is much in vogue; it is an §auze scarf that crosses the chest like an order, diarr,13 jtened on the right shoulder with a large tulle ° Slower. The Comtesse Aimery wore blue cr ,7plt as mist, and the scarf on her bodice butWfr back, being secured by two diamond ^ulle f i,' w^ite roses without foliage draped the ^he J» • 8k""t» ar>d also composed the head-dress. gatjn ri.ncess de la Tour d'Auvergne was in pink » trimmed with garnet velvet, which was em- broidered in butterflies of all colours. The Comtesse de Puysegur wore black satin, covered with Chantilly lace and her sortie de bal was a magnificent mantle as long as the dress, in white Genoa velvet, with a large Medecis collar forming a background to her head. THERE is much novelty in the trimmings for both dresses and mantles, especially in the Pompadour passementeries that have raised figures and are made of beads of one colour. The designs are fruit, such as cherries, currants, plums, &c., amid leaves of beads. The smaller fruits are copied in full size, but pears and the larger fruits are shown only in half, as if cut in two. Such gimps are exceedingly effective at the side of skirts and as tabliers for dresses. There are passementeries made entirely of steel, which are glittering and showy, and others in which gilt, and jet are intermixed with steel. Solid jet rings three inches in diameter, for ornamenting black costumes, are novel; and so are long palm leaves of fine jet, with fringe attached, for the same purpose. TIIE newest jetted nets in the piece and as flounces have raised Pompadour figures. Very fine beads are used to produce the feather, fruit, and leaf designs. Steel beads and chenille also are frequently mixed with the jet. Grey beads are used on grey net, and exceedingly well they look as trimmings on grey satin and gfrey silk. But for summer silks, the embroidered batistes' manufactured in Switzerland will be exten- sively used over red, blue, brown, and dark green silks they are rich looking, and their beauty is now further enhanced by the introduction of gilt threads on the outlines of the figures, and also of coloured figures to match the silk on which they are mounted.








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