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GOSSIP ON DRESS. Tn. sudden change from tropical heat to compara- tively chilly weather, which took place in the middle of last month, made ua (remarks the Graphic) pause in the midst of our preparations :for holiday-making, and contemplate with dismay the dainty muslin and other thin materials of which many of our costumes are composed; but unless we can indulge in an un- limited amount of trunks, and are going direct to a given spot, there to stay, it is well to put aside summer attire and to prepare for autumn, which makes itself felt in the early morning and after sun- down. FOR ordinary country house visiting there is very little difference in the series of costumes to be worn than in those of London society in the season from two to six changes of raiment are required, according to the amount of tennis parties, garden parties, carpet dances, and balls in perspective. THERE are many ways of enjoying a holiday besides a repitition of London festivities out of town. For example, if we do not care for Continental travelling, there is no more delightful way of spending a month or six weeks than in making a driving tour through some of the most picturesque parts of England. A well-built, roomy waggonette, with a pair of good strong horses, and a steady, experienced coachman, together with a pleasant party of Bay eight agreeable people, and an enjoyable holiday may be safely anti- cipated. Long light boxes should be made to fit under the seats of the carriage, one side for the use of the gentlemen, the other for the ladies-the latter may be provided with hassocks, which should serve for bonnet- boxes. and will be found useful when picnicking on the grass. Still more luxurious for a driving tour is a light-built coach which can be drawn by a pair of horses, as it is not always easy to drive four-in-hand up and down the 8eep hiih. of Devon and Cornwall. With a coach we may be independent of inns and hotels, in the daytime at all events, when the weather is fine overhead, as with a tarpaulin for our feet, and one or two of those convenient picnic tables which are so easily stowed away, we can thoroughly enjoy our alfresco meals, and need only take thought for a night's shelter for man and beast. Tnis is just the occasion when a tailor-made cos- tume is most desirable, as no right-minded woman of any age cares to look shabby or dowdy and yet it is well to avoid all superfluous luggage. A costume of undyed homespun wears remarkably well, and does not. show the dust. When the neutral tints do no: agree well with the wearer's complexion, a collar and plastron of some bright dark-coloured velveteen, with deep cuffs to match, remove that objection the skirt should he made with box pleats at the back, and long plain drapery in the front. A Norfolk blouse or a tight-filing single-breasted jacket looks neat and stylish when cut by au experienced hand; a light covert-coat may be strapped round the waist when the owner starts for a long walk on a sunny afternoon, which will most likely turn to a chilly evening. A shady willow bat trimmed with muslin is very comfortable on a warm day, and can be replaced by a weli-fitting felt bat when the atmosphere is damp and misty; all flowers and perishable trimmings should be avoided, excepting a bouquet of wild flowers and leaves gathered by the way-side. Many young people prefer a good long walk to driving for many hours. This can be easily managed thus: the actively disposed members of the party can start off early in the morning towards a given spot, their route carefully marked out, and each pedestrian being provided with a loud shrill whistle, in ottpe of straying away from the flock and losing his or her way. FOR these walking expeditions much of the enjoy- ment depends upon the boota or shoes worn. They should fit well but easily, with low, broad heels; soft, fine cashmere or merino stockings are best adapted for long walks; they also should fit well, without a thick seam or fold, which will produce Eainful blisters. This arrangement will give the orseB two or three hours extra rest, and the matrons of the party an opportunity of replenishing their ■tores. Some young friends of ours went last spring on a tonr of this description, and it was their proaa boast that they had a hot dinner, cooked in the open, once every day, early or late, according to circum- stances, the young folks of the party having coached themselves in the science of fancy cookery during the winter, and thus, with the aid of a marvellous little portable stove, they were enabled to produce most dainty dishes. It is well to make an occasional halt of a" few days at some interesting place, then the boxes which have been stowed away are produced* and dressy toilettes are brought to light. Materials which do not crush very quickly are Victorja mohair alpaca, wire grenadine, and our trusty friend, velve- teen the bodicea and waistcoats are easily packed, and the skirts, if judiciously made, fold up into a itnall apace. t FoR the second occasion the coatumee were more complicated. The petticoata were of maize-colour latin, with bunches of poppies, cornflowers, wheat, and hops, painted by hand; the upper dresses were Of silver-grey poplin, made in the Watteau style, very rtiuch bunched up at the back and sides by means of Cunningly arranged straps and strings, so that they could be folded flat. Maize-coloured satin stomachers, bibow sleeves, with deep lace ruffles. Leghorn hats, the wide brims of which were bent into fantastic ijhapes, were trimmed with grey watered ribbon, maize velvet, and a wreath of field flowers. THE third costumes were very easily packed; they consisted of skirts of soft white silk, with overskirts of embroidered Swiss muslin, gathered into a plain band low silk bodice, muslin high bodice, gathered into a pink satin band, embroidered in seed pearls: a Swiss band with very deep pointa back and front -o match; muslin sleeves in alternate rows of gatb- -g, and small puffs to the elbows, where they w-re finished off with lace ruffles and pink bows. It was lurprising what a limited space these six costnmes took in a flat-topped, wicker basket, which fitted under one of the seats of the coach. THIS is one of the months in the year when there is quite a dearth of novelties; the autumn fashions' are Hot yet brought out, and it is useless to invest in summer materials. A French fashion journal gives some very useful hints from a very high anthority in the art world as to the colours which best suit various types of female beauty A plump, fair woman may wear white in thin materials, mauve in all its deriva- tives down to violet; also reseda, seal brown, black, blue, and pale pink. Fair women with slender figures may wear any colours excepting violet and mauve, but they may with advantaee adopt biege, Scotch pltiid, bright yellow, and dull blue. Red-haired people may choose any colour, excepting pale grey, green, and blue-green." To these we would add any shade of red or yellow. Clear white skins, with chestnut hair, look equally well in black, white, rose-colour, turquoise, heliotrope, grenat, dark green, in fact, every colour, but they inust avoid faded shades. Veritable brunettes with blear olive complexions are charming in cream white, black, coral pink, bronze, copper, éeru, chestnut, straw- feolour, yellow, and sea-green. Pale complexions Íhould avoid light shades, blue goes badly with them, and bright pink make them look sallow. < V IBY rich passementeries are in course-of prepara- tion for the coming season they will form a very ex- pensive item in making a dress, but tuch stylish effects will be produced that in many cases their cost- liness will be condoned. Economy certainly does not Mem to be the order of the coming autumn. FOR smart occasions, which are sure to occur in the course of country house visiting, I have invested (pays Butterfly," in the Lady's Pictorial) in two lovely sowns. the one is a toilette of faille franqais in two shades of reseda. The skirt is of tbe paler shade, with a deep hem of darker velvet, the bodice and idraperies being of the same colour as the velvet. Bound the waist is a girdle of plaited silk cord, re- flating the various shades of the gown and brightened by a thread of reddish gold. The bodice of dark reseda, still opens over a full vest in the paler shade, the vest being crossed below the throat and at the Waist with V-shaped belts of dark reseda velvet. The whole effect, as you may imagine, is exceedingly pretty. The other smart gown is in two shades of heliotrope faille, very simply made with plain straight draperies f the darker colour in the front of the skirt, crossed y narrow stripes of a most original passementerie, in fine jet upon a foundation of gold gauze. Near the centre of the hem of the skirt in front of these draperies open over a pretty xwttiooat of pale heliotrope silk, closely em- broidered with crystals of the same delicate tint of jnauve. The back draperies are of the dark silk, with long revert in the paler shade, while the bedioe is yranfed to oorreepond, with » dftintj vest of pal*


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