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GARDENING OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK. (From the Cag,deg?.ei-s' Magazine.) Kitchen Garden.- When early crops are coming off, clear the ground and dig it over at once it is a folly to wait for the last handful of peas or beans. As soon as the rows cease to be profitable, destroy them, and clear the ground. Dig deep, that the heavy rains now to be expected may sink deep, and plant out Brussels sprouts, green collards, kale, savoys, cabbages, broccoli, &c. If the plants are crowded in the seed- bed, it is best to get them out at once. Have all ready, and in the evening put out as many rows as possible, and give a little water to every plant. Next morning lay a few boughs or mats over them to shade off the sun, and the next evening get out more, till the planting is finished. This is better than waiting for rain, which may be so heavy as to render the ground unfit to be trodden on, and, if succeeded immediately by heat, the plants will flag as much as if put out in dry weather, whereas, being already in the ground, the smallest shower benefits them. Seed-beds for winter spinach should now be made up and well- manured, and the seed got in without delay. In gathering French and runner beans, take all or none. If seed is desired, leave a row untouched. Never take green pods and seeds from the same plants. Take up onions, shallots, and garlic, as they ripen, and store for winter. Give asparagus beds plenty of liquid manure, and use the grass mowings from the lawn as mulchings to prevent the soil from cracking. Earth- up celery for early use, but the rows that are not forward must be kept open and well watered, as the plants grow very slowly after being earthed up, the object of the earthing being to blanch it only. Also plant out the main crop of celery as soon as the ground can be got ready. Cut down artichokes. Hoe be- tween all growing crops, and especially between potatoes. Top runners, and keep them well staked, but very tall sticks are not at all necessary, as they are only the more liable to be blown over by gusts of wind. Sow the last succession of runners and French beans also lettuce, endive, Stadtholder and Mitchell's cauliflower, radish, small salads, spinach, peas, and turnips. Land lying high and dry may be planted with potatoes now, for use early next spring. Peas may be sown this month for late supplies, and at this season it is as well to sow early as well as late sorts. Bedman's Imperial and Knight's Dwarf Marrow are good peas to sow the first week this month, for a supply very late in the season but Sutton's Emperor, Sangster's No. One, Ringleader, and other of the earliest sorts, often prove useful, and are soon cleared off the ground. The best way to grow peas now is in trenches. Take out the trench a depth of two feet, lay at the bottom six inches of rich rotten- dung, then fill up to within nine inches of the surface, and tread over. Then sow, and cover with two inches of mould, and bank up the sides of the trench, so that the peas will grow in a sunk alley of about six or eight inches depth. At each end of the alley, close it in with a spadeful of earth, so as to make a trough of it. As soon as the peas are up, sprinkle them plentifully with soot or wood-ashes stick directly, and then every evening in dry weather you can fill the alley with water, alternating twice a week with manure-water, and the crop will come wonderfully fine. This plan is the one we always adopt after the beginning of June, and we have for years had healthy rows of peas, and abundance of produce, when elsewhere the heat has turned them yellow before their time, and the gather- ing has scarcely paid for the seed. The method is not so troublesome as it appears, for the filling the trench with water is but a few minutes' work, and being sunk and closed at the ends, there is not a drop wasted. Cucumbers.—Keep liberally watered, and train and thin as necessary, to prevent crowding. They will take almost any quantity of liquid manure if in a good state at the roots. Flower Garden.—Budding is the most important operation this month. After heavy rains is the best time, and the operation should be performed at dawn or after sunset; but early morning is the best, as the sap then flows freely. The stocks should be vigorous and if the weather continues dry, and if the sap flows slowly, a drenching of liquid manure or plain water for two or three nights in succession will prepare them, without waiting for rain. Cuttings of all kinds may now be struck out of doors; Antirrhinums, Phloxes, Pentstemons, Alyssums, Dielytras, &c., and cuttings of Laurels, Aueubas, and other shrubs, must be struck in the shade but Geranium cuttings should be struck in the full sun, and the sooner they are got in the better plants will they make to stand the winter. Where long ripe branches of Geraniums can be spared, they are better than soft shoots and, if pinched for time, strike a lot of such ripe branches in five-inch pots, half a dozen in a pot, put all round, and they need not ''0 potted separately till spring, when started for redding out. Dahlias want special attention now as they come into bloom earwigs are very destructive to them, and must be trapped with beanstalks, or a handful of hay may be stuffed into an empty flower- pot and put on a stake, and the vermin shaken out into salt and water every morning. Another lot of Chrysanthemums should be struck this month, under hand-glasses, to make dwarf plants for the window and greenhouse m autumn. The pompones are the best for this purpose, and they may be stopped till the middle of August, to keep them dwarf and bushy. Train out Dahlias neatly, but do not cut them severely, for the loss of foliage only weakens the plant. Put in cuttings of scarlet Geraniums in the full sun either in a sandy border or in pots half filled with brocks, to be potted singly as soon as rooted. Get strong plants of Chrysanthemums into their places in the borders, so that the heavy rains this month may establish them. Layer Pinks, Carnations, and Picotees, and put pipings of the same into a gentle bottom-heat. Another lot of annuals may be sown early in the month, to keep up the gaiety of the borders. Bud Roses during cool moist weather. Dahlias must be humoured as to disbudding and tying, because every variety has its own peculiar style of growth. Disbud freely all soft-eyed varieties, but hard-eyed kinds allow to open all the blooms they make till they come good. Evergreens and shrubs of the free-growing kinds .may be propagated from this time to the end of i Yugust; cuttings put in a shady place will root im- mediately. Prepare now to plant evergreens, which move well from the end of July to the end of Septem- ber. In new ground this is the best season to plant them, but m established gardens the places intended for them are generally occupied with summer flowers. Hedges of all kinds, except holly, should now be clipped m. Hedges of large-leaved trees—such as laurel, aueubas, &c —ought to be cut back with a knife, as the shears will spoil their appearance for the whole season. Pinks to be propagated from pipings, layers or cuttings. The last is the simplest, most 'certain 'and therefore the best method. Rhododendrons and other hardy Americans maybe layered now. Beds of Americans much exposed to the sun will be benefited by being mulched with moss. Strawberries.—Runners of strawberries struck in pots may now be cut off, and the plants shifted into a size larger, or turned out into beds. Beds made now ha,v& the best chance of becoming strong before winter, t to bear abundantly next year. Strawberry-beds now want special attention. Strong-rooted runners should be taken off to form new plantations, and be pricked out into well-manured beds, pretty close together, to strengthen, preparatory to making new beds in_ Sep- tember or they may be laid in small pots, with a stone or peg to fix them, and will root directly. After three years, strawberry-beds cease to pay, and should be broken up and the ground trenched for winter crops. Stone Fruits.—Tie in and train as needful, and use the syringe to wall trees if the weather should be dry, and especially with east winds. Continue to bud stone fruit-trees, for orchard and pot culture. Thin out weak spray on all bush-fruits, and foreright shoots on wall-fruits. Maiden trees intended to be trained should be stopped, to make them break into side- shoots, as a whole season's growth is thus saved. Bush Fruits.—Keep gooseberry and currant bushes open in the centre, and leave on the bush-fruits only as much wood as will bear a fine crop next season. Cuttings of gooseberries and currants may be struck now in a moist shady border, and if sufficient canes were not got in last winter, the deficiency may now be made good, and a season be saved. Mulch raspberries with half-rotten dung.