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GARDENING OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK. (From the Gardeners' Magazine.) Cucumbers must have steady bottom-heat to pro- duce fine fruit. It is a common falacy that when the weather becomes warm the beds may be left to cool down, but it is rarely fine fruit are cut from the frames that are never lined after the first heat is out. Keep a moist atmosphere for cucumbers absorb immensely by their leaves. Lettuce.—This useful salid is too much neglected after the early part of the season, through the tendency of the plants to bolt in hot water. This may be pre- vented by planting in a rich cool soil, and give some amount of shade. Peas.—good autumn crops may be had by sowing now such sorts as Wrinkled Marrow, Hair's Dwarf Mammoth, and Veitch's Perfection. A layer of manure should be put at the bottom of the trench, to draw the roots down, and prevent suffering by drought. Potatoes to be frequently hoed between. A dressing of wood-ashes and guano between the rows of the main crops now considerably increase the paoduce, especially on sandy or chalky soil, where disease rarely appears on moist loams and clays it will be less safe and less necessary. As fast as crops are taken off, trench and manure for broccolis, cauliflowers, and winter greens. Leeks to be planted out in rows nine inches apart every way, in very rich moist soil. Asparagus.—Any more cutting of this crop will ruin the plantations. To many it may seem needless to make this remark, but people are cutting asparagus now, and we must advise them to desist, unless they have made up their minds to the policy of killing the goose, &c. Where the beds have not had much atten- tion, let them be at once pointed in with a fork, all weeds raked off, and the surface covered with a mulch of half-rotten dung. Manure rotted to powder should never be used as a mulch there is no strength in it. Beans to be topped as soon as they show flower, and crops ready for use to be topped back a second time to within a leaf or two of the plumpest of the small pods. Earth up advancing crops. Broccoli must now be got out to furnish a supply during autumn. Manure liberally, and if the planting is done m dry weather, give water as abundantly as possible. Better, however, to get the ground ready and wait for showers, both to save labour and to give the plants a better start, for a free natural growth is especially requisite with broccolis and cauliflowers. Transplant from the seed-bed to a piece of rich light soil the plants from the late sowings. Small clubs just appearing on the roots may generally be removed with the thumb-nail, but where clubs are formidable, from the size of the plants, throw the plants aside and burn them. Cauliflower.-Plant out, and remember that for this crop the soil cannot be too rich; they will actually grow well in dung only, if well rotted. Hoe between those coming forward, but do not earth up the stems except of such as are loose at the collar. Celery requires a heavy watering where the ground is dry. If the fly has attacked the leaves, pick them off and burn up; generally a few leaves only are touched, and they can be spared. But as no crop will bear to be entirely disleafed, where the grub has got the upper hand it will be in vain to expect much pro- f duce. We once lost a long row of Chenopodium atri- plicis by the grub of celery-fly, a plant we never before saw attacked this indicates a partiality for the spinach worts, which is rather a serious matter. Dustings of soot, therefore, so useful to protect celery, may be needed also among beets and spinach. Winter greens to be planted out at every oppor- tunity. It is most important to get out good growths of Brussels sprouts as early as possible. PLOW KIT GARDEN. —Roses that have bloomed freely require to be pruned back, and have a mulch and plenty of water to assist the autumn bloom. Half-ripe shoots of most of the perpetuals may be struck now, with the help of a moderate bottom-heat; but it is full early yet, and better to wait a week or two than waste time in putting in soft shoots. Buds to be entered on bridrs with discretion if either the buds or the shoots to be entered on are in a soft state, they will not take the bark must be firm, or the work cannot be done properly. One night's heavy rain will do more to perfect the stocks and scions than a week of artificial watering. Roses strike from cuttings now with great certainty. The safest way is to make a hot bed at once, and the same day put in cuttings of young wood three or four inches long singly in thumb- pots. Water the cuttings, place them in a cold frame, and shade with mats. There let them remain for a week, by which time the hotbed will be sweet, and the heat steady, and the cuttings will have formed a callus. Place them on the bed, and shut up give air by degrees, and keep them from flagging by frequent sprinklings rather than by heavy waterings. Shoots that have just flowered, or that have flowers on them, will root with certainty Chrysanthemums require liquid manure now, and frequent sprinkling overhead. Tie out as fast as the side-shoots break, for if they once harden out of shape it is no easy matter to restore them to a proper form. Plants recently struck may be planted out in a bed, where they will require less care as to watering than in pots, and may be taken up in dull weather without losing a leaf. It is not too late now to strike a few pompones to flower under glass, to make the house gay in the autumn. Flower Beds need a slight hoeing before the plants meet, and the subjects that require pegging should be kept regular betimes, and especial care to be taken to get plenty of shoots on the north side of every plant, leaving the south side to take care of itself, which it is pretty sure to do. Rhododendrons.—In all cases, unless seed is wanted (and generally it is of no use), the dead trusses should be removed without injury to the young shoots. If seeds are allowed to ripen, the growth is checked, and there will be less bloom next year. As to the young growth, generally speaking, it is best to let it grow in its own way there is no shrub so orderly in its habit as the Rhododendron but where the growth in any one direction is irregular, the knife may be used now to cut it back, and it will be best to cut to the old wood in such a way that it will break and fill up any gap caused by the pruning. Water can scarcely be given in too great a quantity now to Rhododendrons and Kalniias nevertheless in turfy peat and loam sunk below the level (they should never be above the level) it is rarely they require artificial watering. As a rule, the removal of the dead blossoms by a dexte- rous snap of the thumb, easily acquired by practice, is all the attention Rhododendrons require in the open air but we are supposing them to be in beds of good peat, or peat and loam chopped up together if they are in what is called "common garden soil," or stiff clay, it will be a trouble to keep them alive. Old beds may be refreshed by a top-dressing of cow-dung. It should be remembered that American plants thrive best when they get rather thick, as then the roots are screened from the sun. Rhododendrons in pots mostly want a shift now, but it must always be a small one, as too great a shift will be likely to cause the bloom buds to start prematurely, which will result, not in a second bloom, but in a crop of leaves, to the loss of bloom next year.



-----,_---MARTIAL LAW.