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GARDENING OPERATIONS FOR THE WEEK. (From the Gardener's Magazine.) Broccoli from late sowings to be pricked out, and young plants in a forward state to be planted out, where they are to remain in soil deeply dug and liber- any manured. Brussels Sprouts to be planted out as fast as possible. Previous to the late rains we got out a large quantity m rows, between potatoes, and they are now looking remarkably well. The soil must be in good condition for these, for if they are not fine, they are scarcely worth having. J Collards should be planted in quantity, as ground can be obtained for them. Plant them rather thick. Celery to be planted at every opportunity. Deep trenches may be used now, but in another few weeks it will be advisable to make the trenches shallow be- cause the late planted crops will have to stand out the winter. Any remaining in seed-pans or boxes may now be pricked out in beds in the open ground. Spinach.—If requisite to sow now, give the prefer- ence to the prickly seeded variety, which is used for winter spinach, as it is less likely to bolt in case of hot dry weather. Tomatoes to be trained and stopped. If not fre- quently stopped a good crop cannot be expected. Root Crops, such as parsnip and beet, require now a final thinning there is no gain from crowded beds. Potatoes to be frequently hoed between we have no great faith in the practice of moulding up the rows, but it is everywhere practised, and is evidently not seriously detrimental to the crop. If children can be emploved to pick off the blossoms, the weight of the crop will be increased, but the difference will scarcely pay for any other kind of labour. Sow, for succession, Mazagan beans, York, Rosette Colewort, and Collard cabbage, cucumbers (Highland Mary is one of the best to start now), endive, French beans, onions, parsley, peas, turnip radish. Flower Garden. Rhododendrons, Kalmias and Andromedas may now be layered for increase it is the simplest and surest method of propagation, though slow nevertheless thev are always better on their own roots than grafted, and though many kinds sow them- selves in plenty, and produce thickets of seedlings if allowed, there is no dependence to be placed on them for character when at last they come into bloom. Old beds of American plants may be benefited now by top dressings of cow-dung quite rotten. Recently formed beds should not have it; nevertheless a mulching of some kind, especially amongst Kalmias, will be bene- ficial. Where moss is plentiful, there is nothing better to strew three or four inches thick over the whole of the soil it soon sinks to a close peaty layer, and pre- serves a moist condition of the roots. Carnations and Picotees have been terribly afflicted with fly of late, but the recent rams have pretty well cleansed them. The buds must be thinned, and all other needful preparations made to prepare for a good bloom. Dahlias must be safely staked, or the first gale will lay them low. Hollyhocks must be securely staked. Roses are looking well since the cool rains, and all blights and maggots have disappeared. Heavy rains do more for roses in a few hours than artificial aids can do in a whole season. Look over the stock of hrier" intended for budding, and cut away all superfluous shoots to the base, and slightly shorten those that are so placed as to be suitable for budding. By the time the general budding season arrives the shoots thus shortened will be in full growth again, and will take the buds more readily. In some places, however, thousands of briers have been budded already, and if the work can be well done, the early doing it is 9, great advantage, because of the growth that can be got dur- ing the present season. Therefore, we say, make ready to work the strongest briers at once, and as soon as plump buds can be obtained of the choicest varieties. Buds that remain dormant till the next spring do not generally make such good plants as buds that start away soon after being entered, and make ripe hard shoots before winter. We have found that when the shoots from the buds of the season were very sappy, a gentle lift of the stock by means of a four- tined fork, early in October, gave a check that hasten fd the ripening, and prevented loss in winter. We mention this now because some propagators prefer dormant buds, because of the risk in winter, whereas pushing buds can be used with equal safety if means are resorted to check the growth in time. Another matter worthy of mention is that the wild wood should not be cut away severely before entering the buds, as a loss of it checks the flow of sap, and defers the com- plete junction of the two barks. Bulbs in pots, that flowered in spring, and have now finished their growth, will be better worth keep- ing_ if the pots are placed on a shelf in a hot lean-to. This is the way we are now dealing with our stock the object is to roast them before shaking them out of the pots. Cape bulbs require much the same sort of treatment, but care must be taken to keep them grow- ing a reasonable time after flowering, till, in fact, they have "made themselves" for the next season. It is because we do not ripen bulds sufficiently that so few are of any value after having once flowered. Crysanthemums to have plenty of water, and to be assiduously trained. Cuttings struck now, and carefully grown, will make very pretty small specimen plants. Greenhouse and Conservatory.—Conservatory plants require abundance of water and a free circulation of air amongst them. Climbers must never be neglected, or the growth will become so confused that to restore anything like order much of it must be cut away. Moisten all walls, borders, and stone-work the last thing in the evening, to create a humid atmosphere. Beaucarneas and their allies are generally very badly treated, hence the rarity of good specimens. One of the greatest secrets of success is to give them abun- dance of water at this season it is scareely possible to overdo it. Fuchsias should be propagated now in quantity. Specimen plants will require abundance of water, and once a week liquid manure. Fuchsias in the open ground are generally disfigured with a superabundance of sticks, whereas in a good turfy soil, with a moderate amount of rotten dung, they ought to need but little artificial support, and a certain easy drooping habit is proper to their character. Most of the light fuchsias require to be well shaded, or the points of the calyx acquire a green tinge. Azaleas and Camellias, if still under glass, must have air night and day, and the floors kept damp. Use the syringe regularly till the flower-buds show at the points of the shoots, and then discontinue the use of the syringe. Soft-wooded plants, such as Cinerarias, herbaceous Calceolarias, Chinese Primulas, Pansies, Pyrethrums, &c., should be raised from seed now in quantity. If Primulas were sown in April for early bloom, it will be ns well to sow again for a successful batch. Re- member that to grow bad seed is just as much trouble as the best, so that the question of cost of seed should not be considered too closely. Procure the best that can be had from houses known to be above the shabby practice of mixing or misdescribing, and grow them in a good compost from the first. Soft-wooded plants rarely do any good if grown slowly they need abun- u dant nourishment, and if kept stout and strong rarely suffer from vermin. It is the bad practice of starving seedlings in the seed pans that creates the principal trouble of getting them clean afterwards. Hard-wooded plants that have flowered will require to be pruned in and set in a shady place to rest awhile, and repotted if needful when they have started into a new growth. Cinerarias are now very forward in the seed-bed, and the largest must be potted off and put in a frame. A bed of spent hops answers admirably for them.









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