Skip to main content
Hide Articles List

10 articles on this Page

------------5 - '.AGRICULTURE.…

[No title]



HINTS UPON GARDENING. KITCHEN GARDEN.— Cardoona must now be tied and banked up with earth to blanch the ilasfcy part of the stems. They wiH not be perfectly blanched for five or six weeks, so it would not be wise to delay the earthing-Tip much beyond this time. Leeks may still be planted out, and those already grown to good size may be earthed-up to blanch them. Peas lately sown must be supplied with water unless favoured with much rain. It commonly happens that late sown peas become hopelessly invested with mildew, and make no return. We have explained on several occasions how to prevent this by sowing in shallow trenches which admit of frequently flooding them with water. Where they have been sown on the level in the usual way, they must, of course, be earthed-up slightly, but it would pay well for the little trouble oc- casioned to make a channel on each side of the row to receive and hold a liberal allowance of water. Spinach must be sown now for winter. The common prickly spinach is an excellent variety, but the true Flanders is far better. Turnips may still be sown to stand the winter, but it will soon be too late to sow any kind of seeds for winter crops. Celery to be earthed-up with care after heavy rain or a good water- ing take care the mould does not get into the hearts. Winter greens: Thia week offers the last fair and favourable opportunity for securing a sufficiency of winter and spring produee in the kitchen garden, and whatever is to be done must be done to make sure of supplies at a time when it is impossible to get them up quickly. Plant out every morsel of winter greens that may be left in seed-beds, or where first pricked out to strengthen, including broccoli, cabbage, kale, &c. &o. Sow collards, red Dutch and sugarloaf cab- bage, endive. Hammersmith lettuce, salad onions, golden and Normandy cress, Flanders spinach, stone turnip. FLOWER G.&rDF,T.- Chrysanthemums should not be topped any more, as in the event of a cool autumn, those topped later than the first week in August will fail to bloom. The quickest way now to secure a few nice small plants to give two or three blooms each is to layer the shoots in pots. These late layers, if taken from the tops of strong shoots, make very pretty specimens for the conservatory. In selecting the shoots for laying, take such as will make plants of good shape at once. Many ugly old plants now sprawling about to the discredit of the place might be turned to good account to supply small plants by layera. Intermediate stock to be sown in pans and boxe3 in frames, or in some shady place under a wall. When large enough to handle, pot them for the winter, and house them in a light,dry, airy pit. A little frost will not hurt them. Lilies: The time is at hand when lilies, having lately rested, begin to grow again. The brief period of rest affords an opportunity for taking them up and divid- ing the roots. This is the time too for making prepa- rations for planting lilies out of doors. There can be no doubt at all that all the liliums in cultivation may be grown to perfection in good borders in the open ground. Those who are thinking of making a display of liliesnext year would do well to referto The O'Shaue's article on the subject in the Gardener's Magazine of July 29,1865. Bulbs of all kinds must be thought of in good time. If there is not a good store of stuff for potting, set about preparing it without loss of time. There can be no harm in potting a few hyacinths and Van Thol tulips at once. Auriculas require repotting to remove offsets, and secure a good bloom next season. The soil should be fall of fibre, and in a sweet and fresh condition. Pat the offsets in thumbs, singly, in a sandy mixture, and shut them up close for a week; this is better than inserting them round the sides of pots, as they can be allowed to fill the thumbs with roots, and then have a good shift at once. Bedding plants to be propagated without delay for next year. To save trouble both now and during winter, select a few strong plants of verbenas, tropaeoluma, petunias, and lobelias, and pot them in large pots, with one-third of drainage in the pots, and shut them up in a frame and keep shaded for a week; then let them be exposed to all weathers till the probability of frost requires them to be housed. Keep these to force for cuttings next spring, so 80S to be free of the necessity of propagating any of them now. The whole stock of geraniums and calceolarias for next year's bedding should be struck this season—geraniums at once, calceolarias within a fortnight, in a moist shady pit. Save seed of cineraria maritima, if you want anything new in the way of silver edgings. Carastium may be left out all winter, so no need to propagate that now. If thought desirable to propagate verbenas now, in order to have an early bloom next year, take the points of growing shoots about three inches in length, and strike in pans of sand, and from these shift-not into pots, but into shallow boxes of any convenient form and size, in which they will winter better, and occasion less trouble in watering. Hollyhocks require plenty of water to open their top buds well, and all choice kinds on which it is desirable to have a few good blossoms to the last should be dis- budded. Take off first every other bud all the way up, then remove a few more on the side farthest from the walk, on what may be called the backs of the plants, and then go over them again and remove a few buds wherever they are crowded; finally, top the stems to uniform heights, if the plants form a compartment of themselves when they are scattered about there is no occasion to top them.—Thrip: Tobacco-water will do something to render the flower- buds and young tops of dahlias unpalatable to this insect, and that is the only chemical agent we can recommend. In every case where plants are infested by thrip, we consider it of the very first importance to give abundance of water at the roots; this will do wonders. In some places the beds of geraniums and verbenas are almost eaten up by thrip, but these will immediately recover if liberally watered.- Gardener's Magazine.



[No title]



[No title]