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HI NTS UPON GARDENING. KITCHEN GARDEN.—The ground will be now, for the most part, covered, and everything in full growth. The hoe must never be idle; weeds grow faster than the crops, and exhaust the soil rapidly, and if allowed to seed make the mischief worse. Next to stopping blown weeds, the most important operation is that of watering. Plants lately put out should not be drenched to excess, or the chill will cheek them more than a drought would, and it is better to trust to moderate watering and shade combined than to keep the soil soddened about places that have barely taken root. Cucumbers, gourds, tomatoes, and capsicums may be put out; the soil should be rich; and for tomatoes a sunny aspect must be chosen. Sow beet, early horn carrots, scarlet runners, and Frenoh beans, turnips, lettuces, radishes, cabbages, spinach, endive, cauliflower, and peas and beans. All salad plants should have a shady position, or they may run to seed. Cropping: Sow succession beans, marrow peas, let- tuce, Portugal cabbage, cauliflowers, Walcherin broc- coli, stone turnip, and turnip radishes.—Celery to be got into trenches as fast as the ground can be made ready by the removal of other crops. Take up each with a ball, and do not injure a single leaf. Hoe over those that are established in trenches, to break the surface that has been hardened by watering.—Winter greens to be planted out in showery weather at every opportunity. If only one row can be got out at a time, it is a benefit to the seed-bed in giving the seedlings more room, and a benefit to the plants in preventing their getting drawn. FLOWER GARDEN.—Newly-made lawns want a little special care at this season. If the grass is thin, it must not be mown and swept in the usual way, for the roots of young grass suffer from the effects of a hot sun when there is not a close bottom to preserve moisture. It is a good plan to mow early, and leave the mowings till the evening, then sweep and clear up, and the grass will have 24 hours from the morning before the sun comes on it again, or, reckoning from the day before the mowing, 36 hours, which will materially assist in promoting a thickening of the bottom. Carna- I tions, picotees, and pinks may now be propagated by pipings on the north side of a fence, or in pots half filled with sandy loam. The old plan of striking them in heat and in exciting com- posts is quite exploded as a fallacy. Ranunculuses will want water frequently; they cannot endure drought. Pansies strike readily from short side. shoots the old hollow stems will strike also, but never make good plants; the new growth is that to be de. pended on. Dahlias not staked should be attended to forthwith; indeed, the stakes should be put in at the time of planting, so as to avoid damage to the roots when they have begun to grow. Perrennials should be sown for next season's blooming, so as to get strong plants. Sow thin in nursery beds, and prick out the plants in rows as soon as they make rough leaves. If left crowded together, they grow spindled, and never make strong plants. Roses need abundant supplies of water now, and green-fly must be kept down, or the bloom will be impoverished. As the hurry of the bedding-out is now over, a little time may be found to look over briars intended for budding soon, to cut away weak, ill-placed shoots, and shorten in the strong rambling shoots on which buds are to be entered. Generally the knife is used amongst the stocks at the time of budding, which gives them a check, and retards the taking of the buds. If cut in now, as may be needful, both to strengthen the shoots to be worked and make room between rows for the operation, they will break before budding time, and the sap will flow freely when it is wanted. Americans newly planted must have abundance of water overhead as well as at the root. Remove by carefully snapping out with finger and thumb the dead blooms of rhododendrons and azaleas, to prevent seeding. Auriculas will want occasional fumigating; keep them in a cool place, on a hard bottom, and pour water amongst them on the ground surface, to cause a moist air. Asters may now be turned out in the places where they are to bloom; make the ground rich, and choose showery weather. If the place is in- fested with snails, plant a few email lettuces behind the back row, which may be pulled up as soon as the asters are well rooted. Annuals of quick growth, sown now, will bloom late for succession. Nemophilas never make a better effect than from sowings in June, in moist, shady places. Asters and balsams to be planted out during moist, dull weather. Cinerarias may now be earthed-up, to promote the rooting of the suckers. Throw away all seedlings of inferior quality, and propagate only the best. They require a cool shady place while making suckers, which are to be removed as soon as rooted. Sow seed for next year, and pot off rooted cuttings.—Camellias may be got out in a shady place, on a bed of tiles or coal ashes, and kept frequently watered. Dahlias planted out to be staked before the roots extend. Plant out all that are in pots at once; they will do better in the ground now than with any more nursing. The shoots of dahlias may be bent down so as to render very short stakes sufficient.- Herbaceous plants may now be propagated from cut- tings as they go out of bloom. Alyssums, wallflowers, perennial iberis, &c., are easily propagated, and the borders may be richly furnished with them by a little timely trouble. Pansies Take cuttings of the best, look over seedlings, and root out and destroy all infe. rior ones. Sow again for autumn bloom. Tulips: Remove the shading, and let them have the benefit of rains and dews. Hollyhocks Stake at once, and tie in as soon as the stems are tall enough, and frequently look at the ties, to see they do not cut their swelling stems. Heavy manuring in the first instance is pre- ferable to watering with liquid manure, but in poor soils liquid manure may be used abundantly. FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD HOUSE.-Frait Searoh among raspberries every morning for snails, which take shelter on the stakes and among the side- shoots. If large fruit are required, thin the blooms at once, and give liquid manure. Stone-fruits look well this season, and no blight yet, but it may come suddenly, and must be prepared for. Disbud and nail in. Pot trees to have plenty of water, and if weakly in their new growth, pretty strong doses of liquid manure at intervals of at least a week each. Pinch, regulate, and where fruit shows thick, thin it out. —Apricots to be thinned, young shoots nailed in- caterpillars destroyed, and water-engine used smartly, if any sign of fly, which rarely troubles them.—Wall trees to be nailed in, and the shoots thinned as they grow, that there may be no crowding of unnecessary wood. Shoots that run away with undue vigour to be cut clean out to the base, unless in positions where much needed, in which case shorten them back.- Gardeners' Magazine.





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