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HINTS UPON GARDENING. ARTICHOKES are HOW coming to table in plenty, that is to say, where they are grown, which is in very few places. As the heads are cut, the plants must have attention; cut the stems off to the ground, re- move dead leaves, fork over the soil, and lay on a heavy dressing of half-rotten dung. If wood-ashes are at command, cover the dung with a thin layer; they need not be watered, for at this season the heavens will soon supply them with plenty, and the labour may -b-a saved. ASPARAGUS.—Any more cutting of this crop will ruin the plantations. To many it may seem needless to make this remark, but people are cutting asparagus now, and we must advise them to desist, unless they have made up their minds to the policy of killing the goose, &c. Where the beds have not had much attention, let them be at once pointed in with a fork, all weeds raked off, and the surface covered with a mulch of half-rotten dung. Manure rotted to powder should never be used as a mulch-there is no strength in it. BEANS to be topped as soon as they show flower, and crops ready for use to be topped back a second time to within a leaf or two of the plumpest of the small pods. Earth up advancing crops. BROCCOLI must now be got out to furnish a supply during autumn. Manure liberally, and if the planting is done in dry weather, give water as abundantly as possible. CAULIFLOWER.—Plant out, and remember that for this crop the soil cannot be too rich; they will actually grow well in dung only, if well rotted. Hoe between those coming forward, but do not earth up the stems except of such as are loose at the collar. CELERY requires a heavy watering where the ground ia dry. If the fly has attacked the leaves, pick them off and burn up; generally a few leaves only are touched, and they can be spared. But as no crop will bear to be entirely disleafed, where the grub has got the upper hand, it will be in vain to expect much pro- duce. We once lost a long row of chenopodium atripliois by the grub of celery fly-a plant we never before saw attacked; this indicates a partiality for the spinach-worts, which is rather a serious matter. Dustings of soot, therefore, so useful te protect celery, may be needed also among beets and spinach. CONSERVATORY will require air night and day, unless there are many stove plants, in which case shut up while the sun is on the house. Use water in plenty, and liquid manure wherever it seems to be required. Free-growing soft-wooded plants may be assisted now by placing the pots in pans of water, and sprinkling the paths morning and evening. CUCUMBERS must have steady bottom-hest to pro. duce fine fruit. It is a common fallacy that when the weather becomes warm the beds may be left to cool down, but it is rarely fine fruit are out from frames that are never lined after the first heat is out. Keep a moist atmosphere, for cucumbers absorb immensely by their leaves- FRUIT GARDEN.-PLit netting over currants, goose- berries, and cherries, to keep the birds from the fruit. To retard or keep hanging currants and gooseberries, cover with mats. Strawberry runners to be pegged down in pots, and the superfluous runners to be cut awav an inch or two from the stools. PEAS.—Good autumn crops may be had by sowing now such sorts as wrinkled marrow, Hair's dwarf mammoth, and Veitch's perfection. A layer of manure should be put at the bottom of the trench, to draw the roots down, and prevent suffering by drought. PINES should have every needtul attention now, as at this season plenty of growth may be secured for the succession plants. Those swelling their fruit will need the help of liquid manure and atmospheric moisture, with a good steady heat. POTATOES to be frequently hoed between. A dressing of wood-ashes and guano between the rows of the main crops now will considerably increase the produce, especially on sandy or chalky soil, where disease rarely appears; on moist loams and claya it will be less safe and less necessary. As fast as erops are taken off, trench and manure for brocsolis, cauli- flowers, and winter greens. RASPBERRIES to have their suckers reduced to three or lour to every sto l; those left will rise strong, and ripen their wood well, but a forest of spray will be all weak alike, and at the winter pruning there will be a temptation to leave all, because for strength there will be little choice. Never dig between raspberries; it causes them to throw their suckers a long way from the stools; but surface manurings at this time of year, and no disturbance of the earth, causes strong suckers te rise near home. ROSES require now to be pruned back, and have a mulch and plenty of water to assist the autumn bloom. Half.ripe sbootfl of most of the perpetuals mav be struck now, with the help of a moderate bottom- heat but it is full early yet, and better to wait a week or two than waste time in putting in soft shoots. Buds to be entered on briars with discretion. If either the buds or the shoots to be entered on are in a soft state they will not take; the bark must be firm, or the work cannot be done properly. One night's heavy rain will do more to perfect the stocks and scions than a wek of artificial watering. WINTER FLOWERS must be thought of now. Pro- pagate euphorbia and splondens; repot and propagate poinsettia pulcherrimum; give salvia splendens another shift; set out in the open air solanum capsioastrum, and callicarpa purpurea: put all potted shrubs for winter blooming in a cool, moist 1 I bottom tor a month, then remove tnem to a sunny I position under a wall or fence, to hasten the ripening of the wood. WINTER GREENS to be planted out at every op- portunity. It is most important to get out good growths of Brussels sprouts as early as possible.— Gardeners' Magazine,


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