Welsh Newspapers

Search 15 million Welsh newspaper articles

Hide Articles List

11 articles on this Page

AT OUR COUNTY TOWN.

News
Cite
Share

AT OUR COUNTY TOWN. The other day I was something like the Irishman, who, when asked if he had ever seen the Queen, replied that he had not, but that he had an uncle who once very nearly saw the "Juke o' York." Ine,er saw a per- son who did not like Monmouth, but the other day I met a person who had. Not like Mon- mouth ? Well, if that was not enough to stag- ger one, I don't know what was. I was bound to ask a little more about it. Why not like it? Oh, it was such a dull, low place; no good shops, no society, no nothing." I WAS astonished, having known the old town pretty intimately some years ago. And who might be the person who had failed to find in Monmouth anything attractive or sufficiently respectable ? Well, it was (don't laugh, dear old friends in the dear old place) an excise- man's wife Far be it from me to say a word in disparagement of excisemen or their wives but the idea of this lady setting herself up to deliver such a judgment will be received as an excellent joke. To me, as to every one else to whom I had spoken of it, Monmouth ap- peared, on the day I left it as on the day on which, when a boy, I first set foot in it, as it did to tho poet Gray, the delight of my eyes and the very seat of pleasure." I had, since my return to Monmouthshire, from day to day been obliged to postpone a trip to my old home but when I came to hear the place vil- ified like that, drat it, flesh and blood could hold out no longer, and the train was soon tearing over the country with at least one tra- veller in whom many emotions were contend- ing, on his way to see what the years had done. I had heard of many alterations, of many re- verses of fortune, of many deaths; and I hard- ly knew what to expect or whom to look for. I had seen the old rifle corps, of which I was one of the earliest members and in which I could once number many of my recruits, and I had failed to recognize more than half-a- dozen faces in it. The old comrades were not there; children had grown up into men and taken their places; and I felt as among aliens, How would it be when I stood in the well- known streets? I almost dreaded lest my experience should be like that of poor llip Van Winkle. As the train sped along, scene after scene, many of them laden with happy memories, was recognised. There this had happened; there that. All were beautiful as ever. Import- ant undertakings, which I had seen planned, had been realised; and the rather jolty line of railway, of which I saw the first sod cut, bore me at last through the tunnel, the excavation of which we used to watch day by day, to the platform at Monmouth. Not recognised ? I was shaking hands di- rectly after I stepped out of the carriage, and when the turnpike road was reached, there was Charlie, the 'bus couductor, wishing me well with a beaming smile, as if I had left but yesterday. Not recognised ? It was quite a task to grasp all the kindly hands that were stretched out as we walked on, and a long, long time before the top of the town could be reached. The old Freemasonry which draws Monmouth people together in any part of the globe, and which has put fresh life into many a weary spirit fainting in the antipodes, ia as strong as ever. Splendid shops have arisen where I knew little poke-hole places; strange names are over some of the doors; and dull, low Monmouth" (Heaven save the mark!) is apparently gradually soaring in affluence. But the Monmouth people are still one great fami- ly and I was touched (as who would not be ?) to find a little grave which I left in the ceme- tery one mass of flowers, nurtured carefully through the long years by kind-hearted per- sons on whom I have no claim of relationship. Accept, good friends, my warmest gratitude. No more striking proof of your dispositions could be given; and it shall not be my fault if I do not, in return, do you some good by spreading the true report of the beauties and the kindliness which make your town a Paradise. Yes; Monmouth is flourishing. Dull as it may have been, it never figured much in the bankruptcy lists and if the improvements go on as they have commenced, few towns will be able to boast so magnificent a street as Monnow-street, already one of the finest, broadest, cleanest, to be met with in the pro- vinces. The inhabitants generally have a jaunty, well-to-do air: and the increased at- tractions of their premises show that money is being made. Thoroughly Conservative in their political principles, they are yet rapidly advancing in all that regards social life, what- ever rabid Liberals may say as to the possi- bility ot such a concurrence. The public build- ings are increasing in number, and some of the old ones are being remodelled with ex- tended accommodation and greater architectu- ral pretensions. As for the Town Hall and t Mary's church, though both arc wanting in correct taste, the former is not devoid of a cer- tain amount of sombre majesty and its courts Inve been praised by some of the most cap- tious judges of assize, and the church is far from being an unpleasant place to sit in. Monmouth derives its greatest claim to at- tention from the great beauty of its scenery and the facilities which it, as a centre point, affords for short excursions, to places of note and of unique attractions. Within a radius of a few miles may be reckoned a greater num- ber of magnificent and diversified views and of superb castellated and ecclesiastical ruins than is to be found in like extent anywhere else in the kingdom; and it is, consequently, visited in summer time by thousands of tourists, who never depart without recommending to others those high enjoyments which they have here experienced. It is but comparatively a few years since the grandeurs of the Wye Tour were made known, and every season must bring it still further in repute. And whoever sails down the broad and glorious Wye, the acknowledged Queen of British rivers, will assuredly miss much and have much to regret unless he makes a pause of at least a few days at Monmouth. There is the Kymin Hill to climb, for the sake of the exquisitely varied panorama It com- mands. There is the old Roman road, lead- ing towards Stanton and the singular "rock- ing stone" known as the Buckstone. I may safely say that the prospect from the Buck- stone is unparalelled in Britain: a vast ex- panse of woods sweeping over hill and dale, a rolling sea of verdure, backed by a most stri- king combination of picturesque hills. No stranger can look upon it without an exclama- tion of surprise and delight. The Buckstone itself, a huge mass of rock poised on a small base on the summit of a hill, and supposed to have been used by the Ancient Druids in their most sacred mysteries, is invested with intense interest; and no one should return from it without seeing the woodland view at the turn- pike and what is called the Double View" near Stanton church. The great changes which the landscapes undergo as the visitor moves but a few hundred yards are astonish- ing and delightful. Newton Court should be reached, as it reveals the vale of Monmouth in a new and charming aspect; and, farther on towards Ross, the Ancient British camp on the summit of Little Doward Hill is classic ground. Here the great Caractacus or Cara- doc (I have Darned one of my youngsters after him, believing that the possession of a noble name may stimulate a lad for good) battled with tho Romans, and the ford across the Wye below is still called the Slaughter. And it was somewhere near this ancient fortress, if not on th very spot itself, that the renowned Yortigern was, with all his family, burned alive in his stronghold hy Aurelius Ambrosius. A journey by road should be made thence to the rocky height of Rymond's Yat, which com- mapds four majestic ravines, through which the Wye pursues its course, the one looking to- wards Monmouth being celebrated by all our writers on the Sublime and Beautiful. The ruined castles of Raglan (the most pii-turesque 1 ju England), Goodrich, SkcnUith, (.u'osmoiit (the scene of Jack o' Kent's adventures with the devil), the extraordinary Fairy Oak at Newcastle, the vast inland views commanded by Garway and other hills, the fine scenery all down the Wye, the famous ruins of Tintern Abbey, and the undescvibahle magnificence of the prospect from the Wyndeliff; all these are within easy distances from Monmouth. And the old county town itself contains something to look at and something to think about. It is known that it occupies the site of the Roman station Blestium, and that the Saxons effected a settlement in the county in the reign of Edward the Confessor; and that is all that is known about it until the time of Wil- liam the Conqueror, though it is supposed that iron-works, the memory of which is perpetu- ated by the name Cinderhill-street, existed here at a very remote period. The Normans surrounded the town with a wall, comprising an area of some twenty five acres, with four gates, one at top of Monnow-slreet, one at Wye-bridge, one still represented by a tower at Old Dixton-gate, and one known as Monk's- gate towards the present County Gaol. Two or three walls are all that remain of the once proud Castle, built by William Fitz- Osborne, dapifer or stewardof the household to the Conqueror. No doubt Fitz-Osborne was pleased with the king's present of so fine an estate; but the king was not always pleased with his catering. On one occasion, when a crane that was scarcely half-roasted was served up at the royal table, William lifted his royal fist and would have taken summary vengeance on Fitz-Osborne had not one Eudo (who was soon afterwards appointed dapifer) warded off the blow. Edward the First, before he came to the throne, became possessed of the Castle on agreeing to pay the debts of the then own- er, and obtained from the king his father a charter of liberties to the corporation and bur- gesses. That interesting document was pro- duced in 1819 in a dispute between the then Duke of Beaufort and the burgesses, but has since been lost. On the 20th of November, 1326, the unhappy Edward the Second (who had been captured on the 16th, hiding in the woods around Llantrissant in company with Despencer and Baldock) here gave up the great seal to Sir W. Blount, and in less than twelve months afterwards was horribly murdered at Berkeley. But the most memorable event that ever happened in the Castle was the birth of Henry the Fifth, son of the wily Henry Bo- lingbroke (afterwards Henry the Fourth) by his first wife, Mary de Bohun. There is a legend that the Monmouth bells were brought from Azincourt by the great Fifth Harry after his memorable victory over the French, and it has been very nicely versified by Mr C. S. Herve, an artist who visited Monmouth some few years ago. The" goot men" of the town have named the space in front of the Town Hall Azincourt-square (enly they don't spell it right), and have erected a very short- bellied image, purporting to be that of their hero, over the entrance to the said Hall. Some years ago the folks, when going to church one Sunday morning, were provoked to laughter by finding the martial statue looking rather dissipated in a shabby beaver hat, with which some wags had crowned him. We find that in 1630, the assizes were held in the Castle, the hall in which they were held being re- served from a grant made in that year to Charles Herbert and others and they con- tinued to be held there until 1724, when the Town Hall was built. In 1647 an order was given for dismantling the Castle, and since then it has gradually gone to the bad." In its later years a part of it was used as a prison. The slighted walls were freely pillaged for building materials; a stately mansion, called the Castle House, rose on the site of the an- cient keep, and the third Duke of Beaufort was born therein; and the courts once trod by mail-clad warriors were converted into a gar- den. In its turn, the Castle House was doomed to reverses It was tenanted by less opulent families its grounds were parcelled out into bits; and cabbages and pigsties flourished on the birthplace of one of England's greatest kings. The House became a school for young ladies, and was next converted, when the mi- litia was embodied, about 1853, into a bar- racks and armoury. Well do I recollect the expressions of regret when the noble staircases and costly ceilings wore doomed to such a pur- pose. But the townspeople came to look on it as a matter of business, and, great as are the nuisances entailed on the "assembling" and breaking-up" days, would be rather sorry to lose the annual muster of red jackets. The gardens have given place to a hard, level pa- rade ground, and the addition of a substantial wing on each side the fine old house gives it rather a comical appearance. Monmouth, occupying the position it does in the Marches or borders of Wales, has had its inevitable share of assaults and bloody frays. In 1223 it was attacked by Richard Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, and Llewellin, Prince of Wales, who marched upon it from Grosmont. The garrison went out to meet them, a desper- ate fight took place, a bridge over the Monnow broke down under the contending parties, ma- ny were drowned, and the garrison was driven back with great slaughter. In the Civil Wars the town had rather a warm time of it. We read of its being taken by the Parliamentarians, through the treachery of Colonel Kyrle, who served under Holtby, then governor of Mon- mouth for King Charles. Col. Massey, with whom Kyrle had been secretly negotiating, pretended to attack the town and then retired. Kyrle was sent out to follow him, :ind, pre- tending to return with oners, caused rhe drawbridge which formed part of Wye-bridge to be let down, and so introduced Colonel Massey's soldiers. We also read of a clever surprise by the Cavaliers from Raglan and Goodrich, who, while Throgmorton (who had been entrusted with the command of Mon- mouth) had gone to attack Chepstow castle, crept in the night to the Hereford side of the town, climbed a bank, killed the guard at the gate (Monk's Gate ?), and took Col. Erough-i ton and 200 prisoners asleep in their beds, with all their arms and provisions. In a meadow near Dixton Church is a large tumulus, said bv local tradition to have been used as a bat- tery by the Parliamentary forces in some attack on the town; but an excavation, made about 20 years ago, disclosed bones and Roman pot- tery, denoting its true character. The County Gaol, a castellated building, the Town Hall, the churches of St Mary and St Thomas (the latter a Norman building pic- turesquely restored), the curious gateway on Monnow Bridge, the ornamented bay window of the building known as Geoffrey's Study, the New Market House, tho New Reading Room recently erected for the working classes at the cost of Mrs Jones (of the Ancre Hill), the New Grammar School, and the New Union Work- house, will of course command the attention of visitors to the town, and some of them have their stories to tell. The architecture of St Thomas's church de- notes its antiquity. There was a church of St. Cadoc, supposed to have stood on the bank of tho Monnow, about half-way down Mon- now-street. In the reign of Henry the First Wihenoc the Norman, then owner of the cas- tle, built a church for use of his soldiers and brought over a colony of monks from Salmur. This church and the monks were at first lo- cated within the walls of the castle, but were afterwards removed outside, and the Priory is said to have stood near where Geoffrey's Study nuw stands. The Priory church stood close to the east end of the parish church In the old parish church, pulled down in 1736 to make 1 room for the present structure, was the Cap- per's Chapel, better carved and gilded than any other part of the church. Allusions to Monmouth Caps are frequent in old writers. These caps were in great repute, and were made in the Over-Monnow suburb, formerly called Cappers' Town. The inhabitants of this suburb were nicknamed Cat-a-thumpings, and there used to be great jealousy between them and the "up-in-town" people.—W.H. G.

POLICE COURT.

---------THE USK MURDER.

THE REV. W. D. WALTERS'S LECTURE…

SCALDED TO DEATH AT CWMFRADWR.

CRICKET.

THE EMIGRANTS.

MEETING ON LOCAL TAXATION…

"HWECTIOX OF TIIK HANBURY…

PHILANTHROPIC FETE IN PONTYPOOL…

KILLED BY A FALL OF EARTH.