Carnarvon and Denbigh Herald and North and South Wales Independent

HOME AND FASHION. A LETTER FOR MOTHERS AND I DAUGHTERS. By MADAME ROSE. A SMART COSTUME. HE costume comprising a short semi-sack coat is just as much in favour as ever it was. Indeed, many of the newest and smartest costumes are made with coats of this description, and it is probable that as the winter advances we shall see a great deal of this mode. I saw a very effective example of the kind whilst spending a few days in Paris last week. The costume in question was carried out in fine smooth cloth in a lovely tone of Bor- deaux red. The coat was arranged with a cut edge in place of the usual breast seam. From beneath this edge came another cut band of cloth, which projected over the sleeve in epau- lette fashion, and narrowed towards the bottom of the coat, where it met the edge of the first band. The coat itself was exceedingly short, barely touching the waistline, but from beneath its edge came two cut bands of cloth, the second considerably longer than the first, and both ar- ranged with rounded corners. In front the coat crossed over, and fastened with three large, handsome buttons, below which it was cut away I in such a fashion as to leave an inoh space be- tween the fronts, a space which gradually widened towards the bottom of the coat. This space was filled by a scarcely perceptible waist- coat of Bordeaux velvet which, however, served the useful purpose of protection from the cold. Of velvet also was the little rounded collar which was turned back from the neck, as well as the pointed cuffs on the three-quarter length sleeves. The skirt was cut long, and very slightly trained at the back, and was arranged with a succession of well-pressed and stitched tucks over the hips. Theso tucks came on either side of a panel front, and were released about half-way between waist and knee.

SMART NEW MILLINERY. ALL SHAPES FASHIONABLE.—AS the winter ad- vances the millinery displayed by the leading houses becomes more and more tempting, as well as more original in shape and colouring. I was looking over a large consignment of model hats two or three days ago, and among these hats-which, by the way, had just come over from a famous Paris house—selected two chapeaux as quite the smartest and prettiest things there. The first was a rather curious shape of dark green velvet. The crown was high, not very large, and had its top crushed in to a depth of an inch or so. Round this crown was folded a wide band of thick, heavy silk ribbon patterned in a- Paisley design in soft, rich shades. The brim, which was fairly wide, was slightly bent down all round. Beneath it at the i back was arranged a big cache-peigne of the Paisley ribbon, which gave the hat a sharp tilt forward, producing a rather curious and ex- tremely smart effect. The chapeau was com- pleted by a made-up grey bird perched on the left side. The bird consisted of a large head and very small body of grey feathers, from beneath which came a veritable cascade of'multi-coloured I soft Paradise plumes. The second hat was also of velvet, but there all resemblance between the I two ceased. The velvet employed in this case was of a rich Bordeaux shade, very deep and I soft in colour. The brim was straight and not [ very wide, and was slightly upturned at the back ( and sides. The crown, in contrast, wae of the Tam-o'-Shanter type, the velvet being draped in full, heavy folds over the shape, and drawn at -61 the back into a succession of loops and edges, with most novel effect. Springing from beneath these folds at the back, and encircling the crown to the front, was arranged a spray of grey velvet grapes, interspersed with large vel- vet leaves. The grapes were lightly powdered bere and there with silver dust, while the leaves were veined with silver to match, the whole forming a charming colour combination with the rich purplish-red background.

A FASHIONABLE ALLIANCE. Two LOVELY SHADES.—Quite one of the most modish and successful colour combinations of the present winter is the alliance of brown and orange. I concede that the idea is by no means original, brown and orange having played their part in many bygone seasons, but the particular shades scLected just now are rather unusual, and their alliance produces an unexpectedly novel effect. The brown employed in this conjunction is very subdued in shade, quite a mousy-greyish brown in fact; and the orange used with it is of .,hat peculiarly brilliant shade known as tange- rine. The orange, I must tell you, does not appear in any great quantity upon the garment .itself, but rather upon the accessories worn with it. For instance, a smart costume of this greyish- brown cloth will be trimmed with brown velvet, brown strappings and braid, and will be supple- mented with a tiny waistcoat of ivory cloth em- broidered with gold thread and just a touch of the tangerine. But the ivory hat accompanying will be trimmed with a great knot of tangerine velvet, holding in place long brown ostrich feathers shading to orange tips.

THE NEW BEEF TEA. A cup of delicious Savoury Beef Tea for Id. sounds incredibly cheap, but it can be made from a Id. tablet of Eiffel Tower Ox Cup. Send postcard for sample to Foster Clark, Dept. C, Maidstone, I THAT WEARY <Q- g-FEELING-p -d £ *» Is a sure indication of disordered o'-j f=r-i digestion. Impurities are being drawn |—T=t r^c) into your blood from imperfectly di- „ni p—i gested food, and your whole system is r-v- g clogged. That is why you are always —r-j tired, why you never, even in the r-r- "jjy morning, feel really fresh. You must ^ol —r~i see to this at once, before worse r—r—i fVj happens. Take MOTHER SEIGEL'S 2^ pr-i SYRUP. It tones stomach, liver and i->- bowels, and restores the vigour of y/" =r-t heakh. BEGIN TAKING IT TO-DAY. R^J health. BEGIN TAKING IT TO-DAY. J^= MEANS too INDIGESTION fpn IMA I had no appetite, and whnt I did eat £ 3= VVc! caused intense pain at my stomach, 1o' and wind. I suffered from headache >-VJi and a dull pain in my back. I could b'- )= £ not sleep. Sometimes a dizzy feeling ^3= )= £ not sleep. Sometimes a dizzy feeling ^3= ( o would come over me, and I was a b'-< pyJj martyr to constipation. I was so weary fVy that I could hardly drag through the h'-i day. But when things were at their >-v-) worst MOTHER SEIGF.L.'S SYRUP com- b'- pletely cured me."—From Mrs. Mary ^3= Vvc! Hayes, 57, Glenavon Rd., Romford Rd., <o'- != £ Stratford, London, E. July igth, igo6. I M §0 I MOTHER SEIGELS SYRUP IS THE SURE CURE. rTJ The 216 bottle contains three times

A PRETTY MATERIAL FOR EVENING QOWNS. GAUZE AGAIX.—A pretty new material has just been introduced for evening wear. This is & filmy, very transparent gauze, which is striped at intervals with inch-wide bands of satin. The gauze and satin are always of the same colour, but rarely of the same shade. For instance, a gown of palest rose gauze will be banded with stripes of deep-rose satin. Or, possibly, the effect is reversed, and the satin stripes of some pale delicate shade appear upon a gauzy background of some deeper tone. In either case the lace which adorns these gowns is treated in the same fashion-the design is picked out with both the shades introduced upon the frock.

ABOUT RIBBONS. QUITE A CRAZE.—Ribbons are playing a very important part in the »nodistic world at present, and very beautiful and original many of them are. One of the latest and most popular designs consists of a series of stripes in all colours upon a plain ground. If the ribbon be of silk, the stripes will assuredly be of satin; but if the back- ground be of satin the stripes will be of silk. Green, black, blue, brown, crimson, and grey follow each other in regular order upon a back- ground of whiter ivory, or silvery grey. As for the proper use of these gay, variegated ribbons, they are employed to trim smart morning hats, which this year affect a studied simplicity of shape and adornment. The ribbon is made into large full rosettes, which are placed on the left- hand side of the hat, and hold in place wings or quills of black, white, or variegated feathers.

HAIR ORNAMENTS. NEVER PRETTIER.-Ornaments for the hair be- come an important question as soon as the epoch of winter festivities approaches. This year they 'cu are particularly pretty and becoming, and many of them have the additional advantage of being possible of achievement at home by the deft- fingered maiden. Quite one of the prettiest and newest affairs is a wreath of jewelled myrtle leaves. The leaves are cut out of velvet, stiff- ened with a tiny piece of wire, and sewn all round the edge with tiny imitation seed pearls, or coloured and white crystal beads. Equally pretty and fashionable is an ornament made of tiny marabout plumes, frosted all over with glittering diamond dust, and held together at the bottom by a knot of vivid velvet or a pair of small "Mercury" wings.

FOR EVENING WEAR. FLOWERS" FLOWERS !—Charming little boaa for evening wear are made of soft shaded gauze, which is first crimped lightly and then twisted up into the semblance of some flower or other. Roses and' chrysanthemums are the favourite flowers for the purpose, their large size and many petals making them especially suitable. When the flowers are made, they are mounted on wide satin ribbon which has been previously bordered with a finger-width of fur on either edge. All sorts of colours are used, the natural oolouring of the flowers imitated having nothing to do with the matter. A final touch of dainti- ness is given to the boa by lightly powdering the flowers with small crystal beads, which effectively suggest sparkling dewdrops.

A PRETTY COSY. TEA-TIME.-The cosy, dear comfortable thing, is a tiny bit out of favour with the ultra- fashionable dame, but is none the less used by more everyday beings, who would be loth to part with its serviceable presence. A very pretty and distinctly novel, cosy may be made from quite inexpensive materials, A conventional design of some kind—every fancy-work shop abounds with such patterns, *all ready for stamp- ing-is first traced on to coarse linen of the colour which is known as toile ancienne," and Is nothing more or less than unbleached linen. This design is then outlined in heavy button- hole stitch with white embroidery cotton. The background is cut away with a pair of sharp scissors, leaving the design with a sort of heavy late-like effect. This embroidered linen is then mounted over a cosy-shaped piece of linen of some pretty contrasting shade, such as pale blue, green, or rose. The cosy is made up in the usual way, and is finished with a cord of alternate coloured and white strands.

Paisley Flour" Scopes only take fifteen: minutes to make with Browij* Polsoo s raising powder "Paisley Flour." (Trade Marty They are for eating hot fresh from the oven. The Paisley Flour makes them so easily digested. If you have any over next day re-heat in the oven and they will be almost as good as new. They are great favourites for breakfast. The recipe is in every 7d. and 3id. packet. Won't you try it ? Mrs Upperton: 'Has your new house all the modern improvements?—'Mrs Newly rich Lud, yes! 'We've got an automobile garbage in the rear and electric lights in every room. Beliciotis Mazawattee Tea. Brightens- and Delicious Mazawattee Tea. StimJuAaites the Delicious Mlazawaittee Tea. System. 1/6, 1/8, Delicious Miazarar&ttee Tea.. 2{-, 2/6. per ?.

TEACHERS' CONFERENCE AT BANGOR THE PAYMENT OF SALARIES. NATIONAL SYSTEM OF EDUCATION, TWO INTERESTING ADDRESSES. Mr J. Issard Davies, M.A., chairman of the Staff Committee of the Carnarvonshire County Education Committee, on Saturday presided at a public meeting held in the gymnasium of the Jiarigor Y.M.GA., under the auspices of the Carnarvonshire and the Anglesey Associa- tions of County Teachers. THE CHAIRMAN ON THE TEACHERS' PROFESSION. The Chairman, who was received with chieers, said he was very sensible of the warmth of their welcome :and the goodl feeling with which they received the chairman of the County Staff Committee. He cordially reciprocated that good feeling, and a-skedl them to believe that the esteemed it a, very higth compliment indeed to be invited to preside at their meet- ing that day (h*ar, h<MU-j. It was the first timehe had the privilege of meeting the mem- bers of the Union, and lie availed himself of it to express personally, and on behalf of the local education authority, their sincere sym- pathy with the teachers in the very trying crisis they were passing through (hear, hear)! Tt was not pleasant to be knocked about when re, was not pleasant to be knocked about when they were one of the principals in a dispute, or the dispute was one of their own seeking; but, to be knocked about, and to have to bear the hrunt of the quarrel with which they had nothing whatever to do, w,a.s more unpleasant still, and to bear it uncomplainingly, as they had done, indicated a patience and. forbearance and a personal discipline that reflected the greatest credit IUipOn thte profession, and the members of their Union (aipnlause). Of course it was impossible to say what the Outcome of the ,Present State of Chaos might be. The local education authority, ow- "u? uncertainty, had not been able to do whiait they ought to have done to perfect' their administration, and the conse- quence was that the teachers suffered, the children suffered1, and, as to education generally, for three years, they had been prac- y+ ™arkl?f time hear). He was tw ?*, con?/atulate Aem on the ite J V"1 ty h'ad at last abandoned with, V ,non, Possumus," and met them scale woSt 6alarieS- ttonght that scale would compare more than fiavourably (hmr W) H 1 f rUnder Hs notice .w^n+ i USed estimate that the that WaS cos'LmS the teachers of and £ 2000 sor»ethllig between £ 1500 S^iv2?V5 h-f€#timate had been had fonnTtW a smile of ^credulity, he rpi that was much below the mark The advance in the salaries of two cW« ■a one' arts. 68 and 60—.amounted to £ 1764 a year So much of the scale had been con- firmed, and those two classes were, now in the srr11 ,of Tbe ?roPosed scai"" S: aIS V A classes .certificated; assistant teachers and head teachers-pointed to an advance of (hear W^g taci1ease of £ 53715 He thought they would authority had^11^ Carnarvon local oti l y J1?*1 ;been as compared with other counties, in giving them a scale, an I Increase of practically 40 per Cent. was not a. had amends. He noticed that there was a Large number of lady teachers present,^ and he would dike to point out a feature in the scale which should give them the greatest encouragement. In Scotland, taking the average salary paid fu the head male and lemmle teachers, the latter averaged about JB90 a yeair less than the male teachers; in Ireland year ,Iess 5 in 'England and Wales' about £:50 lees; in their own county, it was only «,bo<nt jEMO less (applause). Personally, he did not see why there should be this large inargin between the male and female teacher (hear, hear). The female teacher had to under- go tihe same (training, pass the same examina- tions, devote the same hours to her work, and produce the game results. No less than 75 per 'Sr^i01tl £ rnty Ha „„'t „«!forwr«rt disparage the teaching power of the sex, but the proportion was absurd, amd neither in the interest' of efficient education nor economy he suppOISed Q legacy of the parsimony of the old School Board, who thought more of the amount of the rate thta they often did of the efficiency of the school. lite was also false economy. The training, of our teachers was an n hf th& male teadh€r when trained, .generally devoted his life to the pro- fession, but as for The Female Teacher —as one inspector put it—the havoc wrought by matrimony among that remarkably attrac- tive class of the community-(Iaughter)-made -!»0 t? f a veiT expensive article ■ (laughter). He congi^tuMejd .botih jda^ses ot teachers in the county, because a low salary for the female teacher must spell, in the long run, a low salary for the male teacher. I He congratulated them that the margin in the county was so small between the two classes, r-la^s n.f+e ^as -no inducement to place one before sitting down, to refer to another '^oint in the scale, but he was sorry to say he could not; refer to it with the same pleasure and ap- proval. He meant the differentiation in salary beiween the untrained and trained certificated teacher (hear, hear). He underestood that it had causoeda good deal of heart-burning. He was glad that both classes of teachers were mak- ing common cause in this matter. He was entirely at one with them. The word "un- trained was a misnomer, and was misleading lh» so-called untrained certificated' teacher, in addition to passing an examination in the art of teaching had' had a splendid, training in the valuable school of ^experience, and to caM him strained did him a gross in- jnstice {hear, hear). There were, he believed, some 30,000 of these, teachers employed in teaohong all over the country, and. to penalise I them for life, a.s proposed in the scale, because the authorities had neglected to provide col- lege accommodation was A Monstrous Injustice (applause). He had opposed it in the past, and he wouldl never be a party to it (hear, hear). But he had no doubt when they made their representations to the. authority it would be modified to meet their wishes. The argu- ment used was this, and1 perhaps there was something in it. It arose first of all in fixing oi, artS" 68 and 50.. The fear was that if the salaries were fixed on too liberal a scale, these classes would never make an effort to go higher; aaid that if the non-collegiate teachers were placed on the same level as the collegiate teacher there Would .be no induce- ment for the rising generation of teachers to secure a college training at all. That was the argument they had to meet. He had appre- hension in the matter, but he wouldimpreM upon the teachers that there must be no lag- gards in the profession—no art. 68 content to remain art. 68--no art. 50 content to remain art. 50 (hear, hear^ He assured them the local authority would do their best for the i teacher, but the teacher must' justify it, and do the best for himself (applause). He pro- Pheswxl a great future for "the teacher, both as to his position and remuneration (hear, I hear). The country was beginning to realise the landiuous and exhausting nature of the teacher s profession, and the great- responsi- bility that rested upon his shoulders. It was true his work was elementary, but it was fundamental. The teachrr really In.id the foundation of the nation's greatness and pros- perity (cheers). He was The Architect of the Character of the nation. It might be easy to teach the usual elementary subjects, and that, according to the common notion, comprised his duty, but, as a celebrated American said, "to help the young soul, to add energy, to inspire hope, and to 'blow the coal into the flame of an use- ful life—that was not easy—it was the work of divine men" (applause). Mr Birrell bad sa;iodi some time ago that the good teacher was worthy of the highest honour. It was no dis- paragement that he was engaged in elementary teaching,, and1, speaking of the different classes of teachers, he appealed to them to form one great corporation, that thiere should be no look- ing down one upon the other, and if there were any looking down, the last person to be looked1 down upon was the man who laid the founda- tion of the structure (hear, hear). They had been told that they were now civil servants. Perhaps he (Mr Davies) was prejudiced, but he had always regarded the civil servant as a sort of machine, with no freedom of initiative, keeping his hours loyally and punctually, but doimg his work perfunctorily and without en- thusiasm (bear, hear). He .hoped the teacher would never develope into that type of civil 'servant. A toeactar without iniitiatjjve and without entjwusi&\pm would ire\ ur make Ibis mark in his profession (hear, hear). He was sorry to learn thBut some Meditated Migration. His advice was, "Don't." Wales is fully alive to the. value and importance of education, and can ill afford to lose even one of her best teachers. 'Besides, wha" was to be gained. They did not .better themselves. He read the other day that the chairman of the Shropshire Education Committee proclaimed as the motto of that committee "The best for the child at the lowest' expense to the ratepayer." There was no mention, of the teacher. The lowest expense was probably his interest in the matter. Shropshire, at any rate, was not a very pro- mising field' for migration. The. Carnarvon- shire Committee so far had adopted no motto, but when it did he would suggest The best for the teacher will in- sure the betSt for the clfild," and in the long run it would prove the safest and most economical investment for the rate- payer. Wales was now to the front in educa- tion, and he appealed to their patriotism to see that she maintained tha't. position (ap- plause). plause). NATIONAL SYSTEM OF EDUCATION. Mr T. P. Sykes, M.A., chairman of the National Union of Teachers, speaking on "Thei | essentials of a national system of education," said the eJerreentary school was the foundation' of .such a system, .and the ideal system was one in which the seconary and technical schools should grow out of the primary schools. In his view there were six essential conditions of a satisfactory system of national education. First, that the children be assembled every day in well-built, well-lighted, well-warmed, Iand well-ventilated school buildings (hear, hear). (Secondly, there should be an abundant supply of the best, up-to-date furniture and school material generally. Those were the tools with which the teacher worked, and it was1 in these matters the- personality of the teacher had scope for its display. Thirdly, the school should be taught by a full comple- ment of properly qualified teachers. There were 20,000 primary schools, attended by over 6,000,000 children, taught by 160,000 teachers of all sorts. Of that large number of teachers, 74,572, or 46.5 per cent., were certificated teachers; 40,661, or 25.3 per cent, uncertifi- cated teachers; 18,271, or 11.4 per cent., sup- plementary teachers; and 2698, or 16.8 per cent., pupil-teachers and probationers. That was not a satisfactory state of things. If the best teaching mateviail was t.4t, be obtained Z, better remuneration must be given. Fourthly, the classes should be small enough to allow of individual attenuion being given to the children (hear, hear). That was the bedrock of all educational reform. Their classes at present were twice as large as they ought to be (hear, hear). Fifthly, children should regularly at- tend school iup to 14 years of age. Sixthly, there should be the most cordial co-operation possible between the members of the education committees and officials on the one hand, as having the direction of the educational ma- chinery, and the teachers, who were face to face with the children every day, and by whom the real work of education must be done, if done at all (applause). Professor Phillips said that although the old! Ochool Board1 system had in many cases been condemned, it had not been improved upon (laughter and hear, hlear). As an old member of a School Board, be oould confidently state that many of xhose1 Boards, if not all, were actuated by the one desire to do their best for the teachers, knowing that in doing that they were at the same time doing the best for the. children (applause).

I REVOLUTION IN THE KITCHEN A HINT TO HOUSEWIVES. GtRiEAT FIRiEE OFIFER TO "CARNARVON HERALD" SERIES READERS. Every lady knows the ordinary extmatct6 of beef are too expensive. It is a. great hardship upon people wi)th comparatively limited means that they cannot enjoy a cup of .beef tea wifch- out being obliged to purchase a bottle which, I aifter being uncorked1, probably loses part of ite strength. Messrs Foster, Clark, and Co., of Maidstone, have overcome this difficulty, and they are now offering to the public the celebrated1 "Eiffel Tower OK Cup" in the form of a Jelly Square. The concentrated goodness of tihe Ox with a portion of Vegetable flavoring, enters into the manufacture of Ox Cup, whidh explains the rich flavor and nourisQunent oon- tained in each tablet. Ladies will ask Wlhltr Ox Cup is so cheap. We reply that we have discovered the secret oi preppxiug it in jelly taibLet form, by which means the heavy cost of bottles, oases, efco., is saved, and con- sequently mudh ■better value can be given in, the article itself. With these jellhy squares these is squares there is no bother or fuss of taking- out. of a. bottle, and further there are no sticky fingers. We recommend every readier of the "Oarr- narvon Herald'' Series to try a. penny tablet; ,it only requires to be dissolved in boiling water, but it will produce a breakfast cup of strong, meaty Beef Tea, appetising and nourishing. A penny packet can be converted into Soup at a moment's notice. Wibere Ox Cup. how- ever, will be of the greatest aeeiisffcarfnce is in the kitchen, because its uses are many. [Being a perfect gravy, it makes excellent foun- dation for Stews, and will be found particu- "larly handy in the preparation of a hurried. mieaJ. It is also very strongly recommended for Invalids. The following letter is interesting to r-eaaers of "The. Carnarvon Herald" Series: Devonport, November 2nd, 1906. G. Foster, Clark and Co., Maidstone. Sirs,—I have just tried your Ox Cup. Per- mit me to congratulate you on the successful production of such a. splendid beveffaa*. Providing people will once try it, I feel sure that other beef teas will be swept out of thtt market. I am perfectly sUJr- prised at it* strength and its goodness for a penuy. Can ypu jpos- silMy maintain such quality at tille price, R. K Referring to last paragraph, we can and we shall maintain the present high guality of Ox Cup.—iG. Foster, Clark, and Co., "Maidstone. OUR SPECIAL FREE OFFER. We want every reader of "The Carnarvon BPerald" Series to teost Ox Cup, because we know that when once you have test-ed it it will be- come indispensable in the household. It is sold in Id and 3id packet# at all Grocers and. Stores, but we are willing to send to every reader of "The Carnarvon Herald" Series a frw sample on application. A postcard will 00, to G. Foster, Clark, and Co., Dept., 92, Maidstone.

"Mv boy," said young Jackson, "you are simply taikine nonsense."—"I know it," re- plied his younger brother, "but it's because I warat you to understand what I say.' Delicious Mazawattee Tea. Brightens and Delicious Mazawattee Tea. StimulaJtes the Delicious Mazawattee Tea. System. 1/6, 1/8, Delicious Mazawattee Tea. 22/6 per lb.

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