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gardening Notes. BY JAMES CARTER AND CO. BROAD BEANS. The Broad Bean is a very hardy plant and succeeds best in a good stiff SOll, but one which has been plentifully manured and deeply dug in the previous autumn. In an ordinary garden the seed is sown in February and March, and unless the situation is a very cold one it is best to get the seed sown as soon as possible, so that the young plants may get a good start before a warmer time gets in. Cus- toms vary in different localities as to how the seed shall be sown, but there is no doubt no system beats sowing in a semi-double line. Some recommend the seed being put in with a dibble, but this method we do not hold with; we much prefer a shallow trench being made with a hoe, say about 2 inches deep and 3 inches wide, and into this the Beans should be pressed in this fashion: — about 4 inches apart, and if they appear too thickly when growing, it would be easy to thin some of them out. If necessary to put in more than one row, the lines should be about 3 feet apart* and the soil on either side kept constantly stirred with a Dutch hoo as soon as the plants begin to show above the surface. In districts where there is much wind it is advisable to stake them; the simplest plan is to put two stakes at each end of the row, so that they stand about 2 feet high when driven into the soil, and two rows of string from these run along the rows at in- tervals of a foot will materially protect the Bean stems from being blown over by sudden gusts of wind. In some localities, especially where the soil is light, the tops of the growth are liable to be attacked by a black fly, which, if allowed to remain, will soon spread over the whole plant. Directly it appears at the point of the growth this should bo nipped out and burned. Some gardeners say it is advisable if possible to keep the tops there until the pods have formed, or the check in the flow of sap will hinder the proper development of the Beans. So far we have not found this neces- sary. If it is the intention of the cultivator to exhibit his Beans, it is best to place a stake to each plant separately, and also take away a largo number of the pods when small, leav- ing not more than three or four to a plant, and each one at a separte joint. These will prob- ably grow to a large size, and be very service- able ior the purpose required. Twelve or sixteen pods are generally wanted to fill a dish on the exhibition table. A good dressing of stable dung spread upon either side of the row will help to keep the roots cool, and con- siderably prolong the fruiting season. When the crop is over the old stems should be lifted and burnt. CUCUMBER. Some amateur gardeners make a. great speciality of the cultivation of the Cucumber in their greenhouses, and as soon as they under- stand the peculiarities of the plant, they make a great success of it. Thu chief essentials to- wards success are healthy surroundings, a nice bed of clean loamy soil for the roots, and a moist atmosphere to induce quick growth, with opportunities for plenty of air during hot days. By the use of the word frame it is under- stood that the variety requires to be grown under glass, either in frame or in a green- house. It is generally recommended when they are cultivated in a frame that it shall be placed on a, hot b id but this is not at all necessary. The best method to follow is this: -If you do not possess a greenhouse, get a neighbour who does to raise the seeds for you. Sow the seed in February. One seed should be placed in a. small pot of nice loamy soil, or three seeds in a larger pot; these pots should be plunged into cocoanut fibre to keep the surroundings moist. Do not water at the top of the pot, but stand it in a filled saucer for a few minutes and let the moisture soak up from the bottom. The young plants, as soon as well started, should be kept in a very light position, but warm, and care must be taken that they do not got checked. If it is I r.itended to grow them on in a greenhouse, each plant may be put into a heap of nice sweet loamy soil, and trained up a trellis ac- cording to the space at command. If for cul- tivation in a frame, they must not be put out until all chances of severe frosts are past. As soon as five or six leaves ha,ve appeared the tops should be picked out to cause them to send out lateral shoots, and come into fruit a little sooner than they would if allowed to grow rampant before being stopped. In the early stages of their growth air should be carefully admitted as soon as the sun gets power in the morning, and closed early in the afternoon after the plants have been syringed, the house to retain all the sun bent possible. During the very hot sunshine, when the plants are growing rapidly, they should be shaded with a mat or something that may be available for a, few hours during the dav. The fruits in a frame should not lie on the soil, but have a piece of tile put under them, or something that will just keep them from direct contact with it. If a toad is kept in the frame it will catch all the vermin. The out-door Cucum- ber need not necessarily be raised under glass, but two or three seeds put into a raised mound i of prepared earth (loam and mannre) at the end of April or early in Mav, with a hand- j glass put over them, should come up freely enough; the glass protection should be kept, closed except from ten to four on warm days until the end of May. The hillock should be well watered once, about twelve hours before sow- ing the seed. When the plants are established they will come along rapidly and afford a good supply of robust fruit during the sum- mer. The chief points in the cultivation of all hardv Cucumbers is to provide plenty of moisture in hot dry weather and keep the fruits off the bare ground, or slugs and other vermin will damage them. Note.—If enquirers on any gardening matter will furnish their address when writing for information, we will gladly reply fully through the post without any charge to them- JAMES CARTER & CO., Royal Seedsmen, High Holborn, London, W.C.

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