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INTENSIVE CROPPING.

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By SPADE-WORKER. INTENSIVE CROPPING. Much can be done to increase the yield of i small plot by paying some attention to matter of inter-cropping, which is really a simple form of intensive gardening. One ne -is, however, to exercise common-sense, otherwise both the main and subsidiary crops may become crowded, with the result that neither will prove satisfactory. Most allot- ment-holders sow peas in rows from 3ft. to 4ft. apart. Now, what can be grown to advantage between them ? Nothing is better, I think, than cabbage lettuce, so seedlings of these should now be put out between the peas, or seeds may be sown there. The spaces between the enda of the rows of peas and potatoes ale valuable; for they are .shaded little, if at all. I am planting New Zealand spinach and vegetable marrows respectively in these positions. Thot»e who do not care for the flavour of ordinary spinach would like the milder taste of the New Zealand kind. It can be sown where it is to grow. I shall plant leeks and celery, putting the plants 9in. apart in a single row, between the early potatoes, for the tops of these will begin to die down in a month, and the ground will then be free for the other vegetables. I have raised a lot of French and haricot beans in pots in my small unheated greenhouse, and in the course of a week or so these will be planted out between the ends of the potato rowti or be- tween the rows of early peas, which will be ready to gather in about three weeks' time. In these and in other little ways which will suggest themselves, one can ob- tain a good deal of extra produce. KEEP THE HOE GOING. The recent dry weather has rendered necessary the continual use of the hoe with the object of preserving a dust-like surface, which effectually prevents the escape of moisture and so enables one to dispense with watering, which is usually a trouble- some matter on the allotment. When the soil has been broken down fairly fine by means of the draw hoe, the push or Dutch hoe should be employed, and once a fine tilth is obtained it can be maintained with- out difficulty. Gardening experts always advise the free use of the hoe in summer, but few allotment holders realise its great 11 vjlue; it often makes all the difference be- twen succor and failure, and especially if the Reason proves hot and dry. EFFECTIVE BIRD-SCARERS. There are many types of bird-scarers in use on allotments, and very weird and won- derful some of them are..One of the com- monest, and I believe one of the best, con- sists of a potato into which feathers are stuck, thp potato attached to a string depending from a stick. Another good bird- 1119 11 scarer is shown in the accompanying sketch. I A useful bird-soarer. In order to make it, you get a piece of 11), and cut from each corner towards the middle. Bore a hole through each corner (1, 2, 3, 4) and one in the middle. Turn each corner towards the middle, pass a long nail through the holes, and drive it into a ata-ke. This i* rattU-s vigoroi! >ly in the wind. Pieces of zinc or tin attached to a string are al-o good. Years ago we at hGm to rise wry early, each in his turn, use the "c!;liHJ-ers" which were most effective in k.vpi'ig the birds away, but you must be up v. Itn the dawn. Perhaps this is too "old- iashioned a plan for preeent-day plot- hoiders More "Prizewinning Hints" next week. TRANSPLANTING VEGETABLES. I have heard of allotment-holders who have successfully transplanted seedling car- rots and parsnips, but, as a rule, it is net a very profitable undertaking. If there are blank's to be filled it is worth trying, but the work must be done in showery weather or after the soil has been thoroughly moistened by watering. Beetroot may be transplanted without difficulty so, too, may pea.s and onions. Water them well after- wards. and before lifting them also if the soil is dry. Bean? are easily transplanted if not allowed to become dry. SEEDS TO SOW. Sow runner beans, haricot beans, and kid- ney beans, endive, parsley, Savoy cabbage, ridge cucumber, marrow, pumpkin, colow< rt (aii In-ialitable little cabbage for late autumn and winter), perpetual spinach, p shorthorn carrot, and globe hc-etruot. The Savoy cab- bage and cole-wort .seedlings will b £ planted out in due course. Take care of the seedling greens raised in April and May; before they become crowded plant them at 6in apart, and in a few weeks they will be sturdy specimens ready to be put out finally. If you neglect your winter greens now, they will never be really satisfactory. PRIZE COMPETITION FOR ALLOT- MENT HOLDERS. Eveiy week two prizes are offered for the best allotment hint or recipe. The prizes consist of useful gardening books. All en- tries for this competition must be addressed "Spadeworkfjr," care of Editor of this paper. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. A. R. H. T. writes that parts of his garden are infested with horsetail (equise- tuin), a wild plant fairly common in many districts. It is most frequent on moist land, and this would seem to indicate that our correspondent's garden needs draining. Digging out the roots and cutting off the shoots if, the only mear.s eradication. W. P. J.—When the onions are growing freely, towards the end of June, diluted bedroom slops may be used occasionally, though I would rather u&e them on celery and greens. The soil must be well hoed the day afterwards or it becomes "greasy." Sow swedes on the flat, unless your soil is heavy, then sow on a ridge. W. G. W_-The potato leaf does not ap- pear to be diseased. Its appearance indicates that the plants lack nourishment, and I shoud advise an application of superphos- phate of lime, 2oz. per yard length of row. Right.—I have not used the fertiliser you mention, but I understand that full direc-1 tions are issued with it. At this time of. year I should use it as a top-dressing. "Spadewovker" is "open to give practical advice, free of charge, to readers of this advice, free of charge, to readers of this paper. Replies will be sent by post if a J stamped addressed envelope is enclosed Address your inquiries to "Spadeworker," care of Editor. • ■

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