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Bead Trimming:.

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It is surprising the number of unimportant novelties that spring up almost daily, but being unimportant they in no wise change the appearance of existing fashions, which practically are established for the rest of the winter. The liking for colour contrasts in no way has diminished. The deep hem-or. as it is called, a false hem- of one colour attached to a skirt of quite another hue-is a, very popular fashion. It is one I do not at all admire, but every woman to her taste. A black velvet skirt may have a deep hem of blue; this is a favourite contrast. There is likewise a shade of violet that is fre- quently allied to black, and these colours YI a,re respectively friendly to skirts of grey velvet, but the best-dressed women I meet invaxiably wear straight skirts of a single colour, that is. during the day time. Their evening frocks certainly show less restraint, for the transparent over-dress almost invari- ably is a strong contrast to the one it veils. Bead Trimming. Bead Trimming:. Bead fringes figure on many evening gowns, 1 saw a dress of white satin veiled with black ninon, this overskirt being fringed with milk-white beads. I mention this model, but do so that it may be avoided rather than copied. One conspicuous feature of the present modes is that of bestowing aal much care and elaboration on the back of a dress as on the front of it. Years ago, if the view of the figure behind was neat, little further was demanded. Dressmakers then concentrated almost the whole of their atten- tion on the front part of the figure; but now the back and front of a dress are fashioned similarly, or nearly so. The pinafore style of make has probably contributed to this change of style, and there is much to be said in favour of it. for we cannot always keep our faces turned either to friend or to foe. They must see our backs almost as fre- quently as they see our faces; and. being "0 I constantly in evidence, it is deemed essential that nothing should be neglected to make the. rear view as pleasing as the front view usually is. Short Waists. The rivalry between short waists and waists where waists were meant to be ended in the victory of the former-that i6, the majority of the dressmakers and their fol- lowers scored, but there is a large contingent that remained faithful to Nature or con- trived to make a compromise with Fashion. At present this coming to terms means a very wide waist-band, which extends upward from the natural waist-line. It may be made of silk. satin, velvet, or brocade, repeating the colour of the dress in its entirety, or. otherwise, be a medley of pretty contrasting colours or shades of one colour. This make » of waist-bands is more generally becoming j t'i a large figure than narrower bands are, but it ought not to be necessary to impress on the possessors of full figures" the fact that a band in a contrasting colour is un- desirable. Brocade, velvet, and patterned belts undoubtedly increase in appearance the size of a large waist, and, therefore, ought to be avoided. Hats. Although very large hats are still much worn. toques have the larger following. The backward tilt is now emphasised by a big butterfly bow or very pointed Mercury wings set on the extreme edge of the toque, which reets just on the nape of the neck. Yet tilted backward, as toquee are, the faces of; the wearers still remain in obscurity. There was lately an amusing caricature in one of the illustrated weeklies. Two faehjonable s dameE; approach each other. bending forward. and peering under each other's toques at very close quarters, to see if it were a etra.nger or a friend. They looked very like two infuriated fowls preparing for a mutual onslaught, rather than for the exchange of agreeable amenities. y Latest Hair Fashions. According to precedent, hairdressers come from all parts of England to take a share in the "Postiche" competition that is held in the Metropolis two or three timee a year, when they set. or decide, on what is to be fashionable, both in colour and style, for the time being. There were also asseftibled last week some French artists, who demonstrated the very latest Paris methods of arranging the hair. The Grecian style was almost universally adopted by both parties, but for i English face? the chignon, be it plain or formed of curled hair. is more raised than "has been seen of late, and, though not piled j up on the top of the head, there is some indication that a coronal of hair comiag well { to the front above the forehead will be worn. It is surprising that women so blindly adopt one particular style of coiffure. It stands to reason that the same arrangement cannot: suit all faces equally well. There are broad faces and narrow faces and moon faces. There are Grecian noseiz and Roman noees md turned-up noses; foreheads high and low, lot to mention length of throat and differ- ence of stature. How can it ever be possible ihat one style of coiffure can really suit ';ypes so diverse? Yet, when the hairdressers :neet and lay the law with regard to future fashions in hair, it is a case of all we like sheep," but not alone is it the style of dress- ing the hair that is dictated, for, at the hair-' dressers' conference held a week ago, it was decided that the colour must be auburn. It may not suit every complexion, but. no matter, red-brown hair some women will have if they dye to obtain it. Turning over some recipes. I came across a prescription in manu- script of a stain that was made up for sale in a very large laboratory. Of its value as a. •tain I know personally nothing. 1 give the prescription for what it is- worth. Chestnut Hair Dye. Take one drachm of permanganate of potass, two drachms of powdered gum arabic. and three ounces of triple rosewater. Dissolve. Apply carefully with a soft tooth- btush, to avoid staining the skin. It is asserted that this preparation will give a beautiful chestnut tint to the hair. The late Dr. Anna Kingsford. who was a pioneer of the beauty doctor brigade, if not the very first practitioner after the infamous Madame Rachel, declared that permanganate of potass was not injurious to the hair, but rather otherwise, if used in moderation.. So that I am not afraid to place this prescrip- tion before the nublic. Dr. Kingsford was a fUlly-qualified M.D. She was a most lovely w,,man, too, and valued her* good looks, a every woman should do. To preserve them she, made a study of the art of beauty, in addition to her extended knowledge of medicine. While she lived Dr. Kingsford was a much sought authority; she was no charlatan, but an earnest student of the art she practised and most strenuously pro- mulgated. I happen to have several of her prescriptions, which were. I believe, justly esteemed by those to whom they were given. Cold Feet. It is certain that no one can sleep well if the feet are cold, and some authorities inveigh lkgrinet the use of hot-water bottles, no matter whether they are indiarubber or stone bottles. Apart from the more serious accusations brought against these undoubted comforts, it is generally believed that they are prevocative of chilblains. I have given from time to time directions for making, both crochet and knitted bed-socks, but a new idea has been suggested J to me. A blanket bag is said to keep the feet warmer! than bed socks, and I think it likely, for travellers in Arctic regions sleep in bags, Buy a baby's cot blanket, and make it into! a bag. It should be lengthy enough to cover the knees of the sleeper when in bed. The mouth of the bag should not be very ide. and. the blanket being soft and woolly. it will make an efficient foot warmer. What to Give? This is a problem many of us are trying to tolre. With a well-filled purse one's choice ie very little restricted, but even then judg- merit is needed, otherwise—and it '8 no! uncommon experience—the typical white I elephant is presented, and you get no real gratitude, only conventional thanks. When the present is quite useless, the kind intention that prompted the gift is greatly discounted. If you cannot think of any special liking or particular and individual want and can only give a moderate sum for the prospective gift. let it be something that is certain to be useful, if not now. then later on. Gloves it is not wise to give, unless you know your friend's size and the colour desired. Hand- kerchiefs are certain to be of use soon or syne, and half-a-dozen or even a quarter dozen of dainty handkerchiefs could not fail to be acceptable. They will never go out of fashion, and it is not possible that there will ever he a law like that once in force in Dresden, which restricted the use cf pocket- handkerchiefs to the higher classes. Then the colour never goes out of fashion. I have i,n illustrated catalogue, which includes hand- kerchiefs of every description. They are made of the very finest linen. A dainty variety has a narrow hem-stitched border, Hlged with fine Syrian lace, It costs half-a- jrown. This one might give to one", most affluent friend without being perturbed by the smallness of the gift. There are other samples richly embroidered by ha,nd. and some are initialled. Their price is not by any means extravagant, and one cr more of them could not fail to be an appreciated Christmas or New Year's Gift. Pure Irish linen handkerchiefs, hem-stitohed with nar- row. wide, or medium hems, cost from 5s. a dozen. This make wears well, and the linen I keeps its colour admirably. Itaisin Stoninir. When a large Quantity of the fruit hu to r be seeded the process may be facilitated if a little hot water is poured over the raisins, which, after being stoned, should be dried before the fire or in a. cloth previous to using them for puddings, cakes. Ac. A dust of flour should be sprinkled over currants and raisins before they are mixed with other ingredients when making cakes, Ac. 'I Garlic Pickle for Hams. The recipe here following was given to a friend of mine by a popular ecclesiastic. The excellence of the hams cured in this manner has been proved over and over again. The flayour is unlike that of any ham I ever tasted. Of course, if garlic is disliked, it is a different matter, but I know of few relishes which are nicer than a slice of grilled ham cured in the way I name. Quantity required for two hamsHalf a pound cf garlic or less. to be chopped fine, two ounces of saltpetre, half an ounce of salt prunella, and one pound of coarse brown sugar. Mix thoroughly with as much salt as you think sufficient, one pound or more. Rub this mixture most thoroughly into the hams every day for a week; atfterwards turn them in the pickle every day for a month, when they will be ready for drying, or for smoking. If rubbed with smoke essence the flavour of smoke is imparted. It is possible tliat less garlic would be preferred. Personally, I like ham cured exactly according to the recipe given. An excellent pickle without garlic is made of two ounces of saltpetre, one pound of common salt, one pound of coarse brown 1 sugar, one ounce of bay salt, half an ounce of salt prunella, and one ounce of black- pepper; mix thoroughly. This quantity will be required for any ham weighing sixteen pounds. The pickle must be thoroughly nibbed into the ham every day-for six weeks; turning it in the pickle without rubbing will not answer at all. Tomato Jam. I Stew about half a peck of tomatoes. Fikim. and when cooked thoroughly add a pint of the juice to a pint of sugar. Slice six iernons, thin, and add a stick or two of cinnamon j Boil the whole till a spoonful on a plate will jelly, pour the jam into glasses and cover down. down. Gingerbread Sponge. This is an American recipe. Required: Half a pound of golden syrup; two ounces of butter, one egg. half an ounce of ground ginger. ten ounces of floor. two ounces of sugar, about two tablespoonfuls of milk, and half a tea spoonful of soda. Put the flour, ginger, and sugar into a bowl. In a sauce- pan stir the milk, butter, and syrup until dis- solved. then stir these into the dry ingredients. Dissolve the soda. in a. little milk, add this and a well-beaten egg to the other ingre- dients. Pour the mixture into a shallow tin. lined with greased paper, and bake for thirty or forty irunutes in a slow oven. Divide into fingers when cold. Keep in an air-tight tin. Fried Chicken. This is a, favourite American dish, but -chicken cooked in like fashion is very rarely Berved on our tables. Joint the bird, dip the pieces in flour, and then fry them in deep boiling fat as brown as you wish. Put a steamer over a kettle of boiling water, and as each joint browns remove it to the steamer' Cover it close,, and steam for about half an hour or a little longer. If the frying docs not perfectly cook the chicken, steam- ing will finish it. and it will not be dry or hard, but juicy and delicious. Sausages. J Cook them for a few minutes, say ten. in boiling water before frying, and they will be far tenderer, and sure to be cooked well through- thus ensuring their wholesomeness. Cumberland Hash. Required, two tablespoonfuls cf butter, one of red currant jelly, some slices of cold roast mutton, one gill of gravy, a, teaspoonful of vinegar, some dry mustard, and a little corn- flour to thicken. Melt the butter and the Jelly in a frying pan, and when it just simmers put in some nicely-trimmed slices of cold mutton. Heat the meat carefully, taking care that it does not get crisp; Jhave ready a hot dish. with a mound of mashed potatoes on it. Put the gravy in a saucepan with the vinegar, dry mustard, and thicken with half a teaspoonful of cornflour mostly mixed with cold water. Let it boil up. dust with pepper and salt, and pour over the meat. A Good Way to Serve Beets. After beets have been boiled cut them in slices and dress as followsPut together in a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter aiid a scant dessertspoonful of flour; let them a scant dessertspoonful of flour; let them bubble a minute, then add three-quarters of a cupful of hot water. Let the mixture boil up. season it with salt and pepper, then add I a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Stir ¡ this in. and add the juice of a lemon. Pour the sauce over the beets, let them come gently to the boil, then serve very hot.

SHE HAS CROSSED HER LAST FERRY."

WOMEN & HISTORIC SHRINES

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SOCIAL AND PERSONAL.I I I…

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MISSING RELATIVES.

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