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® £ >ITORIAL NOTES. .
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NOTES. Sti"h+ r^aE>es *or concealing the powder-puff K„ n"a]iy. Sometimes it is carried in a little Of g, Powder; sometimes it is contained in Con^dKerchief' aD<* at °^er times a block of ^Ud en8ec^ P°wder ;,s carried in a bon-bon box, it ^an<3kerchief is stealthily dusted over ail(i then applied to the face. Ca^ ^etter Plan til an all of the above is to j. about one the new packets of pow- 1 in -eaves. These little books can be placed 811 Card-case, and do not present nearly as ^Sestive an appearance as the powder-puff, the Can k6 easily detached and passed over I ^ace, and the effect is very much s*actcry and refreshing than applying *der, while no fear need be felt that the *8 not quite a success, as one of the passed .lightly over the face gives it soft bloom, far superior to that obtained er the use of the puff. ■^rs. Langtry, giving her views on dress, prefers her gowns made in Paris, not CaOse English makers are not competent, because they lack a certain style and «v ■ which to the real artist in dress is ^8°lute]y essential to the complete effect. 6 Considers that the Parisienne makes the 1 of her opportunities in wearing "er and Englishwomen do not, though the J^ter look better in tailor-made or evening tha.n any ither women in the world, ^illiaery Mrs. Langtry thinks the English Pistes ran the French very close. are not bank clerkships open to women? e hours are short, the calling honourable 47ad Progressive, demanding honesty, punc- l1¡a.r, "b' leY, accuracy, and method, qualifications 8 leb are very often found in women more o than in men. The temptation to dishonesty the capacity for swindling are not so v 0ll £ in women, and for this reason, if women j0 6 employed in banks there might be less {/6ery, frauds, embezzlement, and ruined ^ies than there have been of late years. w™- Kendal is one of the most popular of be tnen, both in society and on the stage, and views of the former in relation to the r will, naturally, be of universal interest. th .^tress has done more to raise the tone of iju 8,;age than Mrs. Kendal, and her pcrfor- Yjg^ces are always finished and refined. Her H0 Ws are written in a clear, unprejudiced man- aQd the faults of her professional friends >ij n°t glossed over. Her story of the lady Utf0,fought being Bohemian was being un- J»ilxe is very good, as there are many a1vne- without knowing at all about it, and Mrs. Kendal's 8 Nation is an excellent one. Modern medical men have developed an Uity tbat *s aiaazil1^ iQ devising curious Unheard-of means of restoring the sick jg health. One of the lastest and most novel Vj he tub-of-water cure. It originated in I'M Ilria> and it is not merely a private enter- tb. se. but has been instituted as a feature of dee treatment at the general hospital, a large £ ^rtment of which is given up to the water- leQts. The women's section, which is the Ct largely patronised, is vast, sunny, and 4rrr Tubs of sliming porcelain are bg^^Sed at convenient intervals. After a W-lerjt has once been placed in a tub her Y4 a consists simply in staying in it-that a ans night and day, week after week, until (Q Malady, whatever it may be, haa yielded v, the effect# of xmremitting contact with at-er. ,80me patients are submerged to their chins, others are not obliged to have the water ^°ve their waists- Tne water is kept at blood c^t, and is changed three times during the :ie patients like the treatment, and ),),I themselves in various ways by reading, lJJa,.t. the guitar or violin, sewing, and even cards. Their food is strictly regulated b^jjOfctside dainties may be sent in. Wounds, Ion and all diseases involving considerable of integument benefit, greatly by the tub tmeut. w'eer>ing in a tub is an art that is acquired dja difficulty—occasionally the patient Ov-pp awakened suSdenly by her head falling 'ftonth "ttle and the water bubbling into her bu flexible wooden lattice covered with lljai. anc^ supplied with rubber pillows '•Ua^-3 re^t comfortable, and you may ^h'Slne Jourself living the life of a mermaid, !ch will make the situation a romantic one. autumn millinery will be very charming. >eready the Frenchwoman has started her *et or cloth toque. There will be a good °f velvet guipure used on hats this winter, ace and flowers will be used in conjunction Sat^e tails. Tinted autumn foliage in (>{ et has a very pretty effect, and appliques green and bronze velvet leaves thrown upon "bjj, ata cloth foundation make a pretty com- Ji^tion. Chrysanthemums and dahlias in *«»■' tTl3Lnxe' yellow, and petunia tints are the ^nable flowers for millinery, while lace is 4^7 touch worn. The newest toques are flat ^Ob turbari-like trimmed with birds or quills. straws and felts will both be popular. l^6 We to be inflicted with the prosp.ect of tho sleeves again? Let us hope not. I sv ^Sbt we had buried this awful fashion for be-1"' hut I see the little guffs at the wrist all ijj larger and larger, and as they gain tjg.^oportion so they lose in beauty. The W t sleeves of the past *ew years have been W^^ly more becoming, and the shape of the w* defined is much prettier than when 'not!S quantities of stuff are used to tt) "Vinous quantities of stuff are used to e it resemble a large bolster. •4. correspondent has seirt me a query as to ere the following quotation originates: — "Sow an action, Reap a hamt; Sow a habit., Reap a character; Sow a character, j Eeap a destiny.' >0^ave been -unsuccessful ta finding out whose Ul.1" they are, but my «u->rrespondent thinks occur in one of Thackeray's books. Can °f my readers hein t»e to a solution of difficulty?
ANSWEES TO CORRESPONDENTS.
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ANSWEES TO CORRESPONDENTS. tfi .Some time ago I published a recipe taking sloe gin- The following, I think, ti- tijj. ^ill find excellent:—Four pounds of sloes, fcl)?6 Pounds of crushed white sugar, one W0n the best ani oldest obtainable; ti|j faH this into a jar, and seal it up. Shake it t^0r a few minutes every day for a month, stand for another three or four, '1'b"r which the sloes mijst be strained out. ..f3 colour should be brifht red. ot DPY.For rice cal :-e: Half a pound br>tJ,ter> half a pound o? ground rice, half a b<wof flour, two eggv> a pinch of baking e, er- Melt the butt; and beat it to Ml earn- Sift in the sngivr, then the eggs, heateii. Mix the ricr- and flour together, Sl*t in slowly and kee.ts stirring. -1ave Been.'1--You will find the ^lit ^ne conclusion of a poem by frontier, entitled "jUaud uller." I am away hooks, and caj> only quote from ''a, °ry the few lines her^ following: — « maiden, alas lor judge, for rich and household drudge! ->^j^)Jty them both, and pity us all, who V the dreams of youth re-call; a11 sa^ words tongue or pen the est are these: 'It msght have been.' It "'ell for us all serine sweet hope lies ^1(1 y huried from huK^n eye3, tto)" the hereafter r.>^els may roll the lle trcm its grave awy." =-
REVIEWS.1 '1'b.
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REVIEWS. '1'b •Aici current number o the "Lady" deals t all with children c fashions, though lh stnre a^so a lar^e nus- 'ber of illustrations V a^hle gownB, hatt, and coat3, both ? cloth, for the s,utumn and winter i, the for ladies. The 8.)1:t special articles 1 7' ^ady are always interesting. °f the "Home Series," edited by White vGrant Eichards, London, 2d.), V* ho sch°ol outfits for girls and boys. is u6eful and Practical, and gives a l?n °* a complete and moderate outfit cost- Ce,5ent Portraits of the new American CUp an(i the Eooserelt children are in rent number of the "Gentlewoman." 1$tsq aitmnn fashions k.pb excellently illus- the society and theatrical gossip Of j interesting. The "Gentlewoman" is he most popular of ladies' journals. K
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yi0d fee* "ran down" and can't face £ properly, you have only to take Quinine Bitters (bottles 2s. 9d. tiiea you will be heaJthy and
I LETTER FROM PARIS
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LETTER FROM PARIS THE CZAR'S FORTHCOMING VISIT. Dearest Babil,- Great was the shock and deep the grief when Paris heard that the President of the great sister Republic had breathed his last. Americans are exceedingly popular in France, more especially in the capital, where their large and fashionable colony forms an im- portant factor of high life. Sincere sympathy is felt for them and the entire nation in the loss of Alr. M'Kinley. The outrage itself caused an unpleasant feeling, chiefly on account of the forthcoming Imperial visit. The thought uppermost in our minds was "what if anything should happen to the Czar when he is our guest?" For the moment the joy was overshadowed by the awful burden of responsibility which seemed to be felt by the entire nation as a thing overwhelming in its greatness. The precautions which are being taken for the safety of the Imperial visitors seem to be endless, but I fancy that the members of the secret service, who are to protect the Czar, will find that "uneasy lies the head of a private detective" whilst guarding such im- portant personages as the petit Nicolas" and his charming consort. There is a general feeling of disappointment now that it is known that the little Grand Duchesses are not to accompany their parents. The eldest little girl, the Grand Duchess Olga, made herself most popular when she visited Paris in her babyhood. She beamed on all passers-by and thoroughly enjoyed the glitter- ing raiment of the Garde Municipal. Many of the smart world have already left Paris for Compiegne, and after years of soli- tude the old-world town will, for the short space of four days, be the centre of a whirl of social gaiety, re-calling the most brilliant fetes of the Third Empire. The country sur- rounding the chateau is beautifully wooded and picturesque, and quite close to the town are many fine old properties, some still in the hands of descendants of their original owners. When the Court of the Third Empire was visiting Ccmpiegne the neighbouring castles and country houses were, many of them, much added to and improved. One of the finest is the Chateau du Francport, the residence of the Marquis de I'Aigle, whilst another fine old mansion belongs to the Comte de Bertier. The Viscomt de Chezelles has a large house at Frieres, close to Compiegne, and there are many others belonging to other members of the old nobility. There will be many house RED AND BLACK FIGURED SILK, With ecru lace, black velvet and black chiffon. White hat, with black velvet and white feather. parties for the coming festivities, and all the world and his wife intend to be present. In view of the gaieties of the coming week, Dame Fashion's votaries have made a gallant effort to garb themselves in a style worthy of so important an occasion, and ample success has crowned their efforts. It is, perhaps, a fortnight early for our autumn clothes, but really muslins and such like furbelows had become a little passe, and had to be re-placed. There is. too, a decidedly chilly wind just rustling through the leaves, and as the rain has been pouring on us steadily for the last 24 hours it is as well that the coming visit has hastened on our warmer raiment and prepared us to don our furs. Some of the smartest gowns imaginable are in homespun, whilst a new faced cloth is very much to the fore for our afternoon frocks. For travelling to and fro serge is to be quite the thing—not a fine smooth cloth, but a really rough serge that looks not unlike the old-fashioned horse-cloth. Perhaps it sounds odd like this, but it has really a remark- able catchet quite its own, and promises to be all the rage. One of the young catelaines of a fine old manor close to Campiegne has ordered a really smart gown to be worn at the review. It is of blue serge ornamented with tabs of mohair braid, the bottom of the skirt pleated and vandycked. The short bolero bodice, trimmed like the skirt, is worn with a waist- coat of bright green cloth trimmed with black velvet and steel passementerie. The waist- band, very deep behind, narrows gradually to the front, where it is fastened with a fleur de lys buckle. Quite the prettiest and neatest of hats is to be worn with this costume. It is of blue felt turned up round the brim, with a band of velvet, the crown being surrounded with a fold of dark-green Paisley panne. Under the left side of the brim a delicately- chased buckle holds in a fine ostrich plume, which droops over the hair. Tres chic! Many shades of red will be seen, for this is to be the smartest colour for autumn wear, and. trimmed with some contrasting colour, will make up in many smart ways. As last year all listened to the cry of "ton sur ton," this winter contrasts are to have their revenge entire and complete. No longer are wo to have evaporated shades on darker grounds; but she who will grace fashion's foremost row must go in for such things as green on red, pale blue on green, and the many other which seemed last winter to set our teeth on edge. I hear that for the gala performance in the theatre of the castle many of the dresses to be worn are white. This is a delicate compli- ment to the Czarina, for it is well known that this is her favourite colour, which she wears on all possible occasions. Should the days be cold and warm wrap3 a necessity, some really delightful vestments have been prepared. The "highwayman" cloak is the most in favour, as it does away with the drawback of the tight-fitting coat. As a rule, this cloak is worn exceedingly long, entirely covering the gown, whilst many have three short capes, and often a stand-up collar in the well-known "Aiglon" shape. A few are lined with a rich brocade. but if the cloth is a heavy one many are left without anything to stiffen them. Jewellery will be more resplendent than ever, and the more one wears the better claim one has to be called up to date. I One of the newest articles to add to our jewel-case is a serpentine santoir, set with gems of many colours. Pendants of all sizes and description are smart, and for the moment, the quainter the better. Never before in the history of jewels has good work- manship been so appreciated, and many of; the master jewellers resort to crystal, arriber, and ivory, which, in the hands of an expert; workman, is turned out a chef d'oeuvre of taste and elegance. ¡. Yours ever, PARISIANA. H_
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Wben you ask for Gwilym Evans' Quinine Betters insist on having the right article, with the name "Gwilym Evans" on the label, stamp, and bottle. Then you are safe. Bottles 2<u 2d. and 43. 6d. ea«b. 41617—5
NOVELS FOR WOMEN. -0
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NOVELS FOR WOMEN. -0 TRUE TO HERSELF. "A Jilt's Journal," by "Rita," author of "Vanity: The Confessions of a Court Modiste," <tc. London: T. Fisher Unwin. 1901. This is a story which brings us face to face with "society," that section of it from which the Divorce Court draws most of its clients. and which supplies the public press with most of its sensational matter. The author, without any apparent reason, has divided it into three parts—"The DesiRe of Knowledge," "The Fruit of Knowledge," and "A Little Laughter and a Little Love." The original idea, possibly, was to produce a "three-decker," tut on second thoughts it was decided to boil the whole down to one. It might be developed into a much longer story without introducing hardly any fresh characters. The "American doctor," for instance, who appears on the scene and disappears so suddenly, might have occupied much more space than has been devoted to him. The first part is more elabo- rate and finished than the second, and the second than the third. The third, indeed, is little better than an outline, somewhat hurriedly written, though it forms an appro- priate sequel to the story. The general scheme of the story is of the simplest character, so simple that it is diffi- cult to say exactly what the plot is. It is a tale consisting of a series of events, the one growing out of the other, and the whole evolved out of the relationship of Paula Trent, the heroine, to the several characters with whom in the course of a couple of years she conies in contact, either at her uncle's or at Woodcotc, where the hero, Adam Herivale, her earliest suitor, lives, or at Quinton Court, the seat of Lord and Lady Quinton, or in London, where, like young ladies of her class gcneially. she is "brought out." An air of mystery surrounds Paula. Her father died when she was a mere child, and her motlier-well, Paula herself believes she also died many years ago. It is only after she has grown up the girl learns the truth. arnd an awful revelation she gets. That mother committed the unpardonable sin in her early married days, went abroad, and eventually took to the stage under the assumed name of Madame Desallair.. It is in that capacity on a visit to this country Paula, divines her identity, and confides her dis- covery to her uncle, "the Professor," from whom she learns the whole affair. This part of the story lacks force and impressiveness, so much so that the reader does not share the painful feelings which Paula must have expe- rienced just then. The heroine is a difficult character to handle. She is a strong woman intellectually, with a will of her own, and conscious of possessing great personal charms. She sets out with a desire to know the mys- tery of life and experiment where her sex generally accept everything, nothing doubt- ing. It is difficult to portray a woman like this without making her appear ridiculous occasionally. "The Professor," Paula's uncle is a fine study. He is a recluse, cntiroiv devoted to study. Paula soon discovers that he possesses fine qualities beneath an unsym- pathetic exterior, and she succeeds eventually in drawing them out, and the bookworm becomes a genial and cultured gentleman who takes interest in Paula, and is anxious about her future happiness- Though advanced in years, he sympathises with youth, and enjoys to see them happy. Adam Herivale is one of Nature's gentlemen, a farmer of the better class, and a man in the best and highest sense of the word. Paula has impressed him from the first, and he is not slow to declare his passion. His talk betrays a tinge of vanity and self-conscious- ness, more so, perhaps, than is consistent with the fine traits which go to make up his cha- racter. Possibly, Adam cost least trouble in producing, but he is the finest creation in the whole story. Lady Quinton and her counterpart. Lady Brancepeth, are two women of the world, both living a double life, and both "rnn-1ing their husbands for a show." The former is Paula's chaperone, and the latter, who is considered a great beauty, casts eager eyes on young Herivale, and is natu- rally annoyed by his attentions to Paula. Her jealousy nearly accomplishes the girl's ruin. Both women require most careful handling, and it is questionable whether "Rita" has always exercised good taste and judgment. These two and "the set" with whom they mix have no redeeming features, and "Rita's" portraiture leaves a bad impres- sion on the mind. The minor characters are met with everywhere, excepting, perhaps, Paula's two school friends, Claire le Creux and Lesley Heath, and Merrieless, the maid, and "Old BlJx." These are delineated with rare skill. The etory has its uses. It is a faithful description of life in high places—that is, in a certain section of the "Upper Ten," where pleasure and wealth are gods and where gossip and scandal, intrigue and incessant demands of fashion and prestige occupy the thoughts of the men and women, who live in a world of their own. which is safely hedged in from vulgar eyes. It should be understood, how-1 ever, that the portrait drawn by "Rita" by no means represents life as it is lived in the great majority of "The Stately Homes of England."
THE DECLINE OF CHIVALRY -I
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THE DECLINE OF CHIVALRY Dear Editress,-Ilave the days of chivalry gone? Well, if any woman on this earth can answer that question I can, as I have been pnprotected since I was 24, when I became a widow. Have the days of chivalry gone? Did they ever exist? In the Middle Ages the knight who stuck his lady's gage on his helmet and went out to fight in her name only did it as an excuse for fighting. In that game age the noble women and maidens often had to take refuge tn convents to save themselves from outrage and, sometimes, murder. The Married Woman's Property Act has only existed for about seventeen years. Before that a man could squande- his wife's property and then kick her out. In my own particular case, as a widow left with a young baby to bring up, I never meet wit!i anything but attempts to cheat or grossly insult me under the pretence I of sympathy. Go and look about you in our streets. Can a woman or girl who is more than passably good-looking go from one end of the street to the other without being insulted in a way not worthy of savages? I Look in a railway-station and watch) a number of people trying to get into a carriage. Great, big men hustle and elbow women and even a helpless child out of their way. The same in I trams or getting into any public building. I am a member of a travelling theatrical com- pa,ny, and I speak not only of this, but of nearly all others. If there is one dressing- room better than another it is appropriated by the stage-manager for either him Keif or his special friends. They will see delicate women toiling up a hill under a heavy bag, and if they have nothing of their own to carry never offer help. They rush the moment they arrive in a town and secure the best rooms; they see woman wandering about, often in the rain, and never even try to suggest a place to go to. I met a case lately when some ladies in a small town had been seeking rooms for over three hours, and had travelled from early morning. They went to the door of a, house where three gentlemen (?) were lodging, and they never even asked them to have a cup of tea, though their own tea was going on. I have known a man get a woman out of a com- pany because he wanted a particular friend of his in, and that same woman was in need of every farthing she earned, being utterly alone in the world. Oh, yes, a woman has to go about on her own to find out how much chivalry exists in a man. Women, in my pro- fession especially, are exposed tto insult, and many of them have to tell me bitter stories of the insults they receive from men in their own profession (who should know better) and men outside as well. I don't doubt there are some chivalrous men. I have met about tiiree, I think, and I have been travelling about nearly seventeen years. Men are mostly cads where they see a woman is unprotected, and the black-coated and silk-hatted one is the worst. I could prolong this and give you facts I and dates if you like, but it would fill the whole of your paper.-I am, &c., KATHLEEN. Dear Editress,-TheTC is much to be said pro and con. about the wnestion yon set us. One view of the matter I would like to ven- tilate is that times have changed, and we know the proverb, "Other times, other manners." In our own country chivalry and costume seem to go together. We had the most polished manners when we wore ruffles and plumed hats and swords. To-day, more- over, we live at too great a rate to pay so much attention to all these niceties as in olden times. But at bottom it may with considerable force be argued that there is as much innate chivalry as ever, though we do not make quite such a fantastic fuss about it. Has woman lost her charm? Not altogether. Well, so long as woman charms, so long will chivalry remain^—o- i^
IFEMININE FASHIONSI AND FANCIES.…
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FEMININE FASHIONS I AND FANCIES. The Feast of St. Michael and All Angels will be celebrated within a few days, and there is no doubt that this anniversary is regarded variously—by some persons as L solemn commemoration, associated with sacred tradition; by others the 29th day of Sep- tember is but a synonym for rent-day, when the pockets of the landlords are enriched at the expense of those of their tenants, so that this anniversary is sure to be recognised with mixed feelings, according as the indi- vidual occupies the enviable status of land- holder or the less desirable position of tenant. Now, too, is the time for offering up the sacrificial goose-stubble goose-on the altars of gastronomical art. Everyone knows one legend that accounts for the customary eating of goose on Michaelmas Day. There is, however, another and less familiar story in connection with the maligned goose-I say "maligned" because its name has become a recognised and familiar designate for a. foolish body, although it has never been proved that the goose is really the least sagacious of fowls. The legend just referred to asserts that St. Martin was tormented by a goose, and that the exasperated saint killed and roasted the bird, and then ate it, dying after the meal—whether of indigestion, fol- lowing reflection, is not stated. Anyway, St Martin's death was attributed to the goose, "and all good Christians," so goes the legend, "have ever since sacrificed the goose on the day of St. Martin." He was born in the year 316, and was created bishop of Tour. In early life, and when following the profession of arms, he divided his cloak with a beggar, and later saw a vision in which Christ was making known to his angels this act of charity as shown: to Himself. The feast oi Martin is November 11—half quarter day. It is said to have taken the place of an old Pagan custom, inheriting some of its usages, and this, possibly, explains the fact that St. Martin is regarded as the patron of drinking and jovial meetings, he being at the same time the patron saint of reformed drunkards. It is necessary that the latter clause should be added, otherwise we might wonder how St. Martin was deemed a fit sub- ject for canonisation. S t. Michael is described by theologians as the chief of the four archangels, and in Christian art as the prince of the celestial armies. He is depicted as a beautiful young man of severe counte- nance, armed and winged. In the final judgment St. Michael is represented with scales, in which he weighs the souls of the risen dead. HINTS. Sleeves are made quite long, a materials are thicker the merest puffs of silk, forming the under-sleeves, have re-placed the lace and muslin half-sleeves commonly worn during the summer months. The newest I shape dispenses entirely with undersleeves. The fulness above the wristband is formed by tucking the sleeve closely a few inches below the shoulder point and to within five or six inches above the wrist, then it falls free, until gathered into a band. This is a sensible fashion for winter, keeping the hands and wrists warmer than an open sleeve can do, and those who suffer from chilblains will certainly benefit by wearing sleeves tight at the wrist. VESTS FOR TAILOR-MADE COSTUMES. One of the changes made necessary by colder weather is the substitution of tight- fitting vests for pouched fronts of lace, muslin, and like thin materials. A black coat and skirt made by a London tailor was fitted with a black and white striped silk vest, cut on the cross. It looked exceedingly smart The buttons fastening the vest were gilt, very small, and the ilumber-well. I did not count them, but there must have been two dozen at least. Some figures look to greater advantage in a waistcoat that fastens invisibly at mo side under the ooat. I believe it is described as a "Breton' vest, and is very 'neat in appearance. MILLINERY. There is very little to be said about new millinery, for it is too early to wear felt and beaver. Ribbon and quill feathers as trim- ming have re-placed lighter materials. Double brims are still popular. May they continue to be, for the straight, hard, single edge to a hat is rarely becoming to any face, and is disastrous in effect to large-featured women and to angular faces generally. The double brim, with its inserted trimming, has a softening and, therefore, an agreeable influence on the wearer's looks. It is said that milliners follow the lead of the hair- dressers, and this is as it should be. for we carry -our hair always, we put on our head- gear occasionally; therefore, it is well that our appearance is more dependent on the artist in hair than upon the erratic notions of the milliner, who is apt to consider her own taste rather than the effect of it on the person of her customer. One's coiffure is adjusted to the shape of the features and the contour of the head generally, the subject being under the hands of the hairdresser. This is not the case when French millinery is sold to customers in London. EVENING DRESS. I A very charming and graceful fashion has appeared for full dress: the under-dress, of some lustrous material, is made to fit the figure; over this under-dress falls an entire lace robe. It is set on at the edge of the low bodice, descending in Empire style, loose, flowing, and unconflned; but the contour of the figure is distinctly visible under the trans- parent over-dress. A STRIKING DRESS. I have just heard of an evening gown that showed a. daring combination of colours, namely yellow and mauve, with shoulder straps of velvet in a deep shade of purple. The dress was yellow chiffon or crepe—1 forget which. It was embroidered with mauve ribbon, and trimmed with the starry flowei-m of the purple Jacmanii. The description sounds startling, but I am told the gown was a great success. Roman satin, soft and wonderfully lustrous, makes lovely evening dresses, and lace of any kind looks quite at its best in conjunction with this artistic material. Only in black is Roman satin to be avoided. In yellow, pale green, pale blue, and oyster- white this make of satins is most effective. FRUIT IN SEASON. Take as many large tomatoes as there are people to eat them, cut a round off the top, and with a small spoon remove the pips, which put aside Make a stuffing of shallots, mushrooms, and crumbs of bread, in the pro- portion of nine shallots and half a pound of mushrooms ts. every ten tomatoes. Mince the shallots separately and very small; toes in a saucepan with butter. When cooked add the mushrooms, also cut, a little minced parsley, salt, pepper, and enough crumbs of bread to make a good thick paste. Squeeze the tomato pips, and with the juice moisten the stuffing. Divide as required, fill each tomato, re-place the round top, put on a buttered tin, and bake, basting as required. TO FRY OYSTERS Scald them in their own liquor, wipe them dry. Make a thin batter, drop the oysters in. Take up with a spoonful of batter to each oyster, and fry in boiling lard until a light brown colour. Lay on a napkin, and serve very hot. • I "PATIENCE." J "When the evening lamps are lighted "ar-a this is rarely now-we bethink ourselves how we shall pass the hours before bed-time. Some turn to needlework, some to books, others to music, and, last, though by no means least, to "Patience"—Patience, that everyone appears to have a craze for, and each player seems to havs his or her favourite game out' of the two—or is it three?—hundred varieties already invented and constantly added to. Small square tables are to be found in most houses, and one may see many members of one family severally etruggling with ths difficulties of the game. Some of the cleverest men find "Patience" recreative and entirely restful; so a packet of "Patience" cards finds a place in most handbags. With a newspaper spread on the knees, one can—-not, perhaps, without some difficulty and chance of sudden derangement, calling for the exercise of that Christian virtue from which the game derives its name-beguile in part the tedium of a pro- tracted railway journey. I have been playing lately a four-handed "Patience" christened- wherefore I know not—"Gaboose." It is very amusing, and more sociable than the many games of "Patience" restricted to one player only. A certain sapient person once said that "whist should be taught as a provision or occupation for old age." The cultivation of "Patience" is, perhaps, wiser, for it is true- pathetically true-that sometimes one of an aged pair is left alone; the children have long ago left the parental home, and gone to take their part in the great battle of life, ana 80 the fireside^ oace tiw jseutee. Mhap^y^ family group, is now deserted, except for that one lonely representative. "Mercifully grant that we may grow old together" is a motto that has been found inside some ancient engraved wedding rings. I believe the text is found in the Apocrypha, but separation must soon or late come, and then it is the one pathetic figure I am thinking of, looking back on me past "long vanished." I knew one such a. while ago, who found at times patience in his solitude by an occasional game of "Patience." Now the cards are laid away for ever, and strangers gather round the hearth-stone so sacred to the memory of many who were ever welcome there. "THE BLACK ART." A frivolous, but amusing, game is described as "The Black Art." Do not be alarmed, it is an innocent art, unconnected with any weird deeds or unlawful practices. The com- pany includes, beside the chief player, a. confederate. The first-named leaves the room. and then some object is selected by the others which the absentee, when re-called, must discover. Returning, the confederate questions him thus, "Is it this, or that?" pointing to several objects, but not naming the right one. At length he indicates some- thing coloured black, to which a negative is returned, but the clue has now been given, and the object next pointed out is the one selected. Of course, if it should be black, the player understands that it is black object No 2 which is the right thing. THE HARVEST OF THE HEDGES has now to be gathered. Blackberries are ripening very fast, and the sloes are getting darker in colour every day. Now is the time to make sloe gin, or damascenes, which are not damsons proper, may be used instead of sloes You will have some large, wide-mouth bottles ready. See that they are dry and perfectly sweet. Stalk and pick the fruit, and with a coarse needle prick it over. Fill the bottles, and then shake over two ounces of crushed sugar candy and a few bitter almonds blanched and sliced. Add a clove or two and a strip of thinly-pared rind of a lemon. Fill the bottles with best unsweetened gin, cork well, and store for three months, shaking the bottles occasionally. Then strain off the liquid, and re-bottle it. To be good it will require keeping four or five months at least. Bullace plums are frequently used instead of sloes.
WELSH PASTOR'S JUBILEE
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WELSH PASTOR'S JUBILEE A special and largely attended meeting was held on Tuesday at rlabernacle Welsh Congre- gational Church, Efailisaf, to celebrates the completion of the fiftieth year of the ministry of the Rev. J. Taibirion Davies as pastor of the Church. The meeting was also to cele- brate the jubilee of the Church, the last penny of the debt having been paid. Though Mr. Dr.vies is a veteran, he still looks hale, active, zind strong. He was for many years pastor ot th three Churches at Efailisaf. Taihirion, and Bronllwyn, but, on account of the great distance between the Churches, he resigned charge of the two latter some years ago. Mr. E. H Davie*. J.P. (Pentre), who presided over the meeting, said he had always looked upon Mr. Davies as one of the great pillars of Nonconformity, and a man that the denomina- tion was proud of. (Cheers.) Mrs. Morgans (Ystradferwigisaf), one of the senior members of the Church, then presented Mr. Davies with gold spectacles in a handsome case with a uitable inscription. The Rev. J. Taihirion Davies, who looked remarkably strong, then gave an interesting, but brief, history of the cause since his settle- ment at the place. He said the cause started and 27 aL Taihirion. In 1856 the chapel was built. On'the 30th of September and the 1st of October, 1851, liis ordination took place. Bronllwyn Chapel was erected in 1858. At that time there were 25 members at Efailisaf and 27 at Taihirion. In 1856 the chapel was repaired. The present handsome chapel was opened in 1870, and paid for in seven years. Mr. David Rees. solicitor, then spoke, eulogi- sing the good work Mr. Davies had done. He was followed by Mr. Thomas Rees, senior deacon, whc is a historical and humorous speech said that he had known Mr. Davies for fifty years, and that the union between Mr. Davies and the Church had been most happy. In 1859 Mr. Davies had his first testi- monial, and had received a testimonial almost every ten years since. He had received several calls, and had been the means of establishing a British School at LI ant wit Fardre. Mr. Davies had intended to resign, but the Church would not hear of it. (Cheers.) Capital addresses were also given by the Revs. T. George, Dinas; Lloyd (C.M.), Bryntirion; Richards (B.); J. Williams, Hafod; T. Hughes, Cardiff; and J. Thomas, Merthyr; Mr. Millward, Pentre, and many others. There were present between forty and fifty ministers and leading laymen of the connexion.
WELSH HEROES WHO HAVE FALLEN.
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WELSH HEROES WHO HAVE FALLEN. Lieutenant R. R. Lambton. of the 68th Regi- ment, Durham Light Infantry (previously reported wounded), was killed in the disaster to Majer Gough's small force near Dejagers Drift. This brave yoang officer, whose portrait we re-produce, was a son of Lady Victoria, Lambton and Colonel Lambton, of Brown. I Sub-lieutenant R. R. LAMBTON, 68th Durham Light Infantry. slade, Pembroke. His death is greatly deplorea throughout Pembrokeshire, and the greatest sympathy is felt for the family. His brother was killed at Magersfontein.
WELSH MEMORIAL TO THE LATE…
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WELSH MEMORIAL TO THE LATE QUEEN. At the monthly meeting of the Ruthin Dis- trict Council on Monday, Mr. Henry Williams presiding, a letter was read from the Lord- lieutenant of Denbighshire (Colonel Cornwallis West) regretting that the council declined to support the proposal for a national memorial to the late Queen in London, preferring instead a scheme for the erection of a local one. He begged to remind them that on the occasion of her late Majesty's Jubilee an attempt had been made to raise a sufficient sum for the re-construction of the monument on Moel Fammau, in the Clwydian' range. A sum of £ 500 was promised towards that object, but in the opinion of a competent architect that amount would have been quite insufficient, and the proposal was, therefore, dropped.—It was resolved that the clerk be instructed to communicate with the Mold, St. Asaph, and Holywell Urban District Councils, and also the county councils of Denbigh and Flint, with a view of getting them to co-operate, in order to carry out the scheme of restoring the Moel Fammau monument.
"REMOVED" FROM THE ARMY.
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"REMOVED" FROM THE ARMY. The "London Gazette" on Tuesday night con- tained the following announcement:— Reserve of OfEcers.-Captain H. E. Bamfylde, late Royal Artillery, is removed from the Army, his Majesty having no further occasion for his services; dated September 25, 19UL
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THE GREATEST WHEEL IN THE WORLD is erected at Earl s Court, and the largest adver- tisement in the world is displayed upon it HORLICK'S MALTED MILK is the subject of this publicity, and if you test our product you will ag-ree with us that it deserves the widest advertisement that we can give it, as a complete food equally adapted to all ages ana all conditions of life. It contains in itself sufficient nutriment to support a grown man or woman, and offers it in such a form that it is suitable for infants, in place of mother's milk, even from the moment of birth. Medical men and members of the nursing profession not only recommend Horlick's Malted Milk to their patients, but make use of it them- selves, when overworked or run down. Of all chemists, price Is. 6d., 2s. 6d., and lis. Send for free sample and pamphlet of impor-! tant medical testimonials to Horlick and Co,! 31,J.\r.$g:q9. &IA
STAGE IN RELATIONI TO SOCIETY.…
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STAGE IN RELATION TO SOCIETY. IF [By Mrs. KENDAL.] "Society in relation to the stage" would sound as well and be almost as apt. Whatever the stage owes to society, society is, undoubtedly, deeply indebted to the stage. The stage is the fount of its dinner con- versation, the refuge of its erring and disabled, the invaluable background alike for its happiest efforts in charity and its spiciest divorce cases. This view of the question does not concern us here, however. Like the governess who is never tired of declaring she is a lady, the social status of the theatrical profession in England is so con- stantly insisted upon that one begins to have suspicions. Is the governess a lady? Are actors and actresses received by society with open arms? Obviously the governess may be a lady, and many actors and actresses we know are revived by society. The fear is lest, through a Datural reaction after centuries of society's scorn and contempt, actors should take this social petting too seriously, thereby, as the Americans say, "giving themselves away." By very temperament the actor falls an easy prey to lionising; he takes to posing and strutting and to a comic loftiness as a duck to water. Instead of turning to society for whatever relaxation and amusement his profession allows him, his natural temptation is to incor- porate society as a part of that profession. Painters do not sling an easel round their neck nor wear paint on their thumbs when they go out. nor does one at a party look for a pen behind every writer's ear. Why, then, do so many actors feel it incumbent to hang out a sign-board—a sign-boardther of affec- tation or of slovenliness. Most of us know what I must be pardoned for calling the motor-car effect that an actress often creates on entering a drawing-room—the tip-toe excitement, unrestrained curiosity, the almost inevitable, You can tell she's an actress." Kind people ascribe it to personality inseparable from art. the unkind to a wish to attract attention, the very unkind to the tawdrines3 and intentional tom-foolery they consider part and parcel of the theatre. Think for a moment of the millennium when every actress who is received at all shall be primarily a pleasant addition to society, not a mere stage advertisement (or stage deter- rent?)—when actors shall be neither patr ni- sing nor eccentric, and when all, as I have said elsewhere, shall of their own free will sit upon chairs as God and the upholsterers designed they should. In the meantime let us be properly thankful to society for its latter-day enlightenment, I DOTTED BATISTE FROCK, Trimmed with narrow bands of lace and white tucked muslin. Elbow sleeves and short bolero of white muslin. showing neither resentment nor a too con- scious gratitude. Special thanks are due, however, to dramatic amateurs. It is they who first taught society that actor and ape are not synony- mous, who first bridged over the dividing gulf —a gulf that still exists abroad. Can it be that in France and Germany the thrilling delights, the intoxicating possibilities of amateur theatricals are unknown, unguessed? When the society woman adopts the stage as a profession her example in conduct, dress, and ma-iners ought logically to be of ines- timable value to her new associates. In the majority of cases, however, it is not so. 1 Whether an actress views her profession as a profession sensibly or not, and behaves in it sensibly or not, usually just marks the diffe- rence between the woman born and bred in her work and the woman who has been used to another sphere in life and has gone on the j stage in later years. < It is a hard thing and a regrettable thing to have to say, but the stage has more often than not a demoralising effect upon the 1 woman who takes to it when her girlhood 's I past and who has had no practical acquain- 1 tance with it beforehand. By "demoralising effect" I mean a certain degeneracy into meretriciousness of dress, < speech, and manner, an apparent want of self- I respect that may easily belie the woman's true inclinations. I know an instance of a charming woman, used to the highest and best E society, who the moment she obtained an engagement with a. theatrical company flung off every conventicn and every restraint short ( of actual misconduct. When remonstrated with her astonishment was genuine and great. She explained with tears in her ey'18 that she I J thought she could be "Bohemian" with im- ( punity. 1 There is one surpassing interest that "smart" 1 society and my profession have in common- ] the scramble after cheap publicity by means of press interviews and press advertisement < generally. The illustrated press in particular is delightfully impartial. Duchesses and actresses, music-hall singers and countesses are mixed for ever in a dire confusion"; their photographs and the photographs of their friends, relations, boudoirs, husbands, and animals present one long. inextricable r tangle. Which is the more wildly interesting to know—that a certain actress keeps a dog without a tail, or that an uncertain duchess keeps a cat with two tails? When the photo- graphs of both animals appear side by side, is it wonderful that the cat is ascribed to the actress and the defective dog to the duchess? It becomes a case of- I gave her one, they gave me two, You gave us three or more; They all returned from him to you Though they were mine before. So long as society women allow their photo- graphs, names, and doings to appear at inter- vals in every rag" in the kingdom, who can criticise the actress for doing likewise, to whom notoriety at least represents so much bread and cheese? Someone has said that there are no great poets nowadays because there are no great drunkards. On the same principle it may be contended that in the future there will be no great actors because there will be no great social divisions. The great actor is distinguished by big subjective qualities, by breadth and virility of method, by a well-developed emotional side. Contrast these with the cultivated indiffe- rence of manner and petty refinements that good society demands, with the impassive society caterpillars" of which Dickens speaks. A potentially good actor may, undoubtedly, be spoilt by over-education, and I once heard it said of a man that be was not educated enough to make a thoroughly bad one. There is a half truth here that may be extended. There is danger in generalities, but they serve their purpose if only in calling forth specific contradictions. I bear in mind many exceptions whom glittering generalities" leave splendidly untouched. Finally, let us hope that in times to come it will be deemed as superfluous to discuss the Church in relation to Christianity or respe-it-- ability in relation to dulness as the stage in relation to society. MADGF. KENDAL. [Copyright in the United States of America 1;)12. FceJ 1
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{■■■BSBBrSSIBSBBESJIBSBISeer: >. JitclilFRKII °iira<^I'8 have yielded most satisfactory results 1 auw ?-Ur busmess has been built up by systematic- 1 I wir eeP,nf faith with our Customers In other i y fulfilling all that we promise in our I 1 monevSteSeatS' xfud by,°itine utmost value for J money, the purchaser returns to buy again. Once » bus,nc°:as=tanWa-VS 3 Customer' Naturally our-! i business »s still growing-, I i have that happy kuack of making countless t fnenub wherever they go. We merely outline their I ments-the goods do the rest. They are made in our own light, airy workrooms, and here are a I I ° V^e'r £ f)°d pemts thev are amply fuil in I size (not the skimpy, slop-made rubbish of un- ■ I scrupulous traders), most accurate in fit and cut [and THREE GOLD MEDALS have been awarded us for exceden c- of make and finish. Do I wonder that our ■ mess keeps growing? 'M1C'S nrc so ea°-v aad cannot fail to I via I j PSC-TURE LISTS OP COSTUMES. i PICTURE LISTS OF MANTLES. 1 J PICTURE LISTS OF UNDERWEAR. J PICTURE LESTS OF BLOUSES, i and, in fact, Picture Lists of any or all the Goods J we manufacture and distribute. Mav we send l them, Po-t Free? Simply drop us a Postcard 1 i mentioning 111l-^newspaper and addressed 0 j i I I I I L limn a aassJ^ w ejus s»asssaaiiaeaB^
TYPHOID AT EBBW VALE.
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TYPHOID AT EBBW VALE. PRIMITIVE METHODS IN FORCE. At the monthly meeting of Ebbw Vale District Council on Thursday evening, muter the presidency of Mr. T. Richards, J.P., au exhaustive report was made by Dr. J. W. Davies (medical officer of health) upon the serious epidemic of typhoid which has raged in the district during the last couple of months. During the past month fourteen cases had been notified, six of which had proved fatal. For the months of July and August twenty cases had been notified from the North Central Ward, and the whole of the six fatal cases occurred in that ward. Dr. Davies characterised the disease as of a very severe type, and was distinctly traceable to the large deposits of sewage and other refuse matter concentrated within the western portion of the Xorth Central Ward, the material with which it wap incorporated having proved defi- cient in absorbent power by reason of being mixed with cinders. In the presence of the moisture whicl: was unabsorbed putrifaction of the sewage took place. The surface of this seething mass, under the influence of the sun and drought during the recent hot season, and tne production of a considerable amount of infective dust, had resulted, and this, car- ried by the wind and flies, had penetrated into the pantries of the neighbouring houses and contaminated both the solid and liquid food. In face of the fact that all sanitary measures left to the well-meaning, but untrained, efforts of the public were only too likely to result in disaster by rendering almost certain the spread of infectious diseases throughout any densely-populated area, it was the bounden duty of the sanitary authority to adopt such measures as could be carried out, under direct official control. Typhoid fever was always indicative of defective sewage disposal, and, as had been repeatedly pointed out, the method of dealing with the refuse of that district was of a most primi- tive and dangerous character, calling for immediate rectification, the rapidly-increasing population making this matter daily a more and more acute one. The only effective method of refuse disposal possible of adop- tion in the district was destruction by fire. In his report Dr. Davies remarked that a dis- tressing feature of the present outbreak of typhoid fever had been the conspicuous absence of skilled nursing, so urgent a need in carrying out the special treatment called for in the district with a view to reducing: both its mortality and spread. It. was incum- bent upon the council at the present time to engage at least six of those nurses to act as outdoor nurses in conjunction with the in- door staff of an isolation hospital, whose dut it would be to nurse the sick in those households the head of which could not afford to pay heavy fees. The expenses of such nurs- ing could be met by small sums from those accommodated and by the rates. It voild be necessary, in conjunction with the new isolation pavilions which the council was about to erect in the grounds of Beaufort House, to put up a sufficiently large disin- fecting apparatus of approved pattern to deal with the infected clothing and bedding. One of the prolific causes of infectious out- breaks in the autumn season was the want of a sufficient, quantity of water to efficiently flush the drains and lay the dust. This had been especially the case at the present tim* at Ebbw Vale, where for the first time since the waterworks had been erected the water supply had completely failed, a calamity which pointed to the nrgent need of providing a larger storage capacity than at present existed. The council considered the report a very serious gne, and the various recommen- dations of the medical officer were exhaustively discussed. With reference to the disposal of refuse, which was such a serious source of danger to the community, it was reported that arrangements had now been completed for tipping it outside the boundaries of the town, and the danger would thereby be greatly minimised, if not altogether removed. A long discussion ensued on the recommen- dation of Dr. Davies, with reference to the engagement of skilled nurses. Mr. Lyons said it was not a question of cost, for during the present outbreak he knew of one family who would willingly have paid the greater part of the cost of a trained nurse if one could have been procured. He thought the time had arrived when a town, with a population of 22,000, should be able to main- tain district nurses, and for so large a popu- lation the cost would be infinitesimal. After further consideration, it was decided, on the motion of Mr. A. Jones, seconded by Mr. L. L. Lewis, that the clerk write the autho- rities of nursing institutions with a view of ascertaining upon what terms nurses could be engaged, and that the medical officer be authorised to engage a nurse when required. On the failure of the water supply of the district, the Surveyor (Mr. T. J. Thomas) reported that connections had been made with a reservoir belonging to the Ebbw Vale Com- pany, and the Sirhowy and Dukestown districts derived a supply from the Tredegar Water. works. All available local supplies had been made use of. The council's reservoir was rapidly being cleared of the peaty deposit. —The council considered the question of in- creasing the storage capacity in committee.
PORTHCAWi SEWERAGE. ! -\
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PORTHCAWi SEWERAGE. At the ordinary meeting of the Forthcawt Council on Monday, Mr. G. Sibbering Jones, I J.P., presiding, Mr. O. J. Brooke, in pursuance of a notice of motion to rescind a previous resolution, "That the council do tjpt seal the lease of the irrigation ground for purposes of erecting a rifle range" said he felt justified, because it was carried on the chairman's cast- ing vote, and some of the members had since altered their opinions. His first reason was that the sealing of the lease would greatly facilitate matters, the War Office being anxious to have the range completed by next spring. They had been dallying too long, and they were also threatened with an injunc- tion- The Chairman (interposing): I must call you to order, sir. Keep to the question, please. Mr. Brooke: I am ieadinjj on to that, sir. Mr. Griffin: I rise to a point of order, Mr. Chairman. Mr. Brooko is raising another question. Mr. Brooke: I can assure you, gentlemen. that sincj the appearance of this question in the press the marine extensions have ceased. The delay is serious, and I move that the lease be signed this evening. Mr. Robert Barnes seconded. Mr. Griffin had hoped that the new com- plexion the questi-n had assumed would change Mr. Brocke's opinion. Mr, Grace thought that it was the pressure of public opinicn which had induced Mr. Brooke to propose his motion, and, having complained of misleading paragraphs in the evening papers, said if they sealed the lease now it would be like a man selling his house before he had another place to go to. The Chairman: This is an important ques- tion, and I have tried to discover what pos- sessed Mr. Brooke to bring it forward. There are two positions the resolution will lead you to if it is carried—(1) You will have to allow the sewage to flow on the beach, or (2) you will have to prepare a scheme for its disposal out of a current rate. The motion was eventually defeated by five votes to three. For the motion there voted Messrs. Brooke, Elias (Newton), and R. Barnes; against, Messrs. Jones, Griffin, Elias (Nottage). Grace, and Clarkson. Mr. IL B. fJomlg reuftfuiiea actual,, "w ■%