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RIJRAL NOTES. BovtlfvY j- XTJla- iJjK. GLOUCESTERSHIRE. AN"" „ ■ERy TO CORRESPONDENTS. ~I7n vitry0li Poultry-keeping.—Mary Ground.— t and Profit," published at a«, London, W.C., prlce 2s. 6d„ will suit of rr ellillgtoOf Tr?e.-Bertha ;H:i.ve!ork.—It is the foM al Conl* (rlganteo., one of oar most orna- Or avnis trees, and a great favourite „A p J* ana parks. Itm ^t Tree.—" X. Y\V— It is not a k'a eracot^ DF»1e beech-the most effective tsT?5 yon OI b!1 Purple-leaved trees. Tim veiH hpoVfindicate that the tree is in the 1 cannot say which variety flnJ Pretti' lu Oloom sent. It is evidently a in eii>Tarietj** and they are '1 thnt y Thev succeed best in T'a»« f c;ontains neat. W *iite:r?e:la.rSoiiiums.-AV. B. P. Willian.- 'ie Thp-1S 15 Ciaribel and the other Fairy fl^nt rs Pelargoniums are. very pretty on yo'n 6 l!ley carry badly, and the two are v-W611* were all to pieces, as they gene- oT^Uty f J1 sent a distance. th0a,Yera"p°LPansy-—A Newark Reader."—It is &K^rirkin?er:t- The flower is a large one, but Tf^are not sufficiently defined to be W? Qo rJ y are aH «s good, however, you n Si*no~ son to grumble about the result of b' -Me- i*tEy Packet oi' seed. «vwe Vou on Legs.—"Nonplussed."—Is the S'ltP-6•'tePt them in damp? They are 'erin= from cramp or rheumatism. of £ ,wann, dry bed. Procure a shilling ^"arrish's chemical food from a Wy in n,'1,!3 €i-!ch puppy a teaspconful of this t e"'I1Sr1(1 iV Give them p.snty of milk. Do 5riVe P em> but let them run about. Jjn'^ yo,?^try from Ireland.—H. Bland.—I Ireland udvertise in tins paper for poultry ?0ne Qitt 0r elsewhere, when you would rCcrv ^ouohf 0l^ei's, and you could select what I w^eiTri+1Wou!->i suit you best. I do not fuiK?ll'd hi P'aco you name for farming. ./the i f 21"d If you would tell me more liA ^1 i'o • v of thin go you wish to get into. l0re it. it °UnS" Pheasants.—" J. S. — I do not ^0ii^elsaiitl!i t0° coarse, and quite unsuitable c^kl i Uutl- they are ut least hail-grown. %z3lesr ilul it through a very fine sieve. I. se It, to th-11 f0T the pheasants, and give the Wit fiu chickens. Gould the miller not 41CiaTlotlfei-eif r yoa:J 1 am sure Jle could, or i. t Waj h cannot. It seems a rich meai, ll^m e SUd to ieai n how you succeed. Stort Shearer.—a iiuif-and- ^ixtjiv0 °1 barley and maize meal is a So]' 6li trleiJ,e" -it will make them grow last, ana j" It you can bo.i any oid bones do «( meai m the liquid whau it is tW I'tdiiH ll. a little sloppy, but not too much W it vi,)Itllxture- ieeu them lour times a ltiem wel1 to run over the fieiu, Y^tty la the morning, when they p.eii 6*°«Uj». 'r0rrai' snails, and otner lood. C,?'B,ree Martially Blown Over.—" Kew Nl t I>rohn^ot it up and re-plant it. This tiw^ia th klix it. Eemove a lutie of tiie i-L PUil tj*e ^tem on the side it :s blown irt.m, C!'ee uPrigilt- -Drive a stake in in °f f d, ar\ £ ide. Gi\e it a good hold :n the or j „tls the =t2Ki to it with a soft piece W1, and tviuie- Put the soil back round the Hp QU tr^ad ^t all round very firmly. It i),11 firat. ?Ke lo omit putting a stake to it hi^°W-PIAUIETL Phi' Towil Gardens. J. B.The her- tili ? ia a t w a yery hardy plant, and grows ^eiffh^Qst town garden. They do not nower ot iRt 0f"wr September. The spikes attain a 81ir->i0lti a,?1 t,vo t0 three feet, and the heads WlbietoArLVery showy. They are very if vr Th centres of beds or back l:nes in W did .re(lttire plenty of manure, and W'°U sho-ii s 111 a »ooci deai before plant- iot ?°ver it' Put some more round them now r e Un^i-uT?3* v'Tith a little soil, when it will ■Wo,, e«t ti^0ru T^orn Hedge.—" St. Helens."— Is tha i?. to take cuttings from a thorn ^i&Pri 0 ^m?er' from November till March, ^ui !fr°ci%p0n- very lreely. and are generally ^tai be nnt 30wn at the time the cuttings *e«jj °l s-uiiVi 11?' -A- s°il containing a good 'tiotw ■f'ork it 1 8 b?st for both cuttings and es deep It <er. and insert the cuttings three f;Utfjl^'r>-U .1 "t them in rows one foot apart !?• Tbp"r;ace of four inches from each ^etn -tniice ,is also sown in rows at the y fiore rn' an^ they are transplanted to give Tjj^Ung 0,11 the next or following winter, V,8 the Rhyr'l,us Tree.—" Farmer's Wife."— C°1iit trali°"u:u or f«ver tree of some of Jiliid Jy- I lu ^°lonies. It is not hardy in this ? Sflv^Oter tried it. It survived a i:^e w 'd attained a height of 6ft., when ^ticj ,'ttle nln^t cut it off. You should take &oi-i 1 t'tieni 5- out of the pot, separate them, in smali pots. Give them v'^ld mUr,til ti soil. Put them in the be,. ^hcrii n,irey ^)e?ln to grow; then you can thf" .^d tetklut of doors till the- end of fteptem- (^'8iouiricl0vv* rj era i-1 then, and keep them in ty^'t to the winter. They ara not ^Sbt^^ru^-L. M. Lamer.—Thanks for this i-ter- They seed freely, and, no Parta hJ^as.^Persed. like other wild flowers, ?Pr«ad 'rds^Jle seed ;s carried to different v~6 bpllc^ ihern diffused with the wind. They Sf'r'0Qn- ,0,Be ,.„'?-se too. in parts, where they "'3<1 for ;"triblished. bat this is easily jPIrr,r? Vq'')~ the bulbs produce little side OijtVy r. and the habit of these is to *Oof "libs" from the parent bulb. If a Sr jv. 'iQapn 41 re planted now in a BBace one Th *rt0re iiC liie P^-t-oh would probably be a j-ard 9.re ,vcxt^nt half a. dozen years hence, jfilp.r-lj hardy. ^Jfnrrnnt Bushes Unhealthy.—Tne 'ts 'Lhe hi ^itoots you send are badly infested iri^f ia currant mite. This pest burrows H}i50s3ibiJ ? eaf buris s;; effectually that it is rsw*ate ° rpach it with anything to cxter- ar6 iy fop there is, unfortunately, no tL never u' ,T!ie bushes it takes possession of is t^ly r any use afterwards, and ,RWi^0ct t "P' can Sn^?e3t to and others bm 'fl do .V* out and burn them. This you Wo'rtQ°ncej as they will not improve, th6 f°rtv ^an you should not plant anv "'1, ll1ite in-V^fi"3,,ar- If you did next winter y°U find its v'ay to them again. earrt^nie Tii'ar.^ J0ft r,ore do not plant them in -^n. *.> but in another part of your n .-l-nc!'arubber Plant.—" M. A."— flo",ver .fl,-111 a length of one foot. Fill a ^Up„lri it n- °f sandy soil, and insert the ^ili Terl. arid tua ct(tting. It should then be somJ10 so'l kept moist afterwards. It f^iat"oin; Weeks to root, and if kept in a hat.tat«H 'tTilt.mosPhere this operation will 2t>e + ''1 niaL ■*■' is only the ends of the shoots Mien°P tbov ^fttir.gg, and if it has more than -i thig v.??y all be taken off and potted, th-e '^n fr tieeo done the p'ant. should be 8eciih3- T;n« ,a. f°'Jt to eighteen inches from *ill a, dvy-i-p^'Ject of cutting it so low is to ile Prori, ,ashy nlant, as several branches 5&Vi!?,Iesif i+ ■ 11 tl10 stem. and when these aUt 4, ■• Wbf i-V1?l l,e famished from the pot 0tHy ^t'an t'v,^ ls a more beautiful type of Jf„ 4 few i„°?e tall ones with a long stem and <Vv 3 °h 1 es on the {°i" ifct °tUr lavvnV'1 ~"L-inburgh Lawn."—The soil 10 gro ™mt be V £ 1 •y poor—too poor, ;n ail'I rr ^rj-3s' and moss over-runs it I^iji op ket some rhort, half-decaycd "fUjiU ^-J'er f°^he:l manure. Spread a over t 3 0V€r the sur face. Rake or Mil Crev: t° work the small manure into the *1° si^11 be»i and you w"ill fillci that the grass of it1 to grow OT1 parts v.-here there is v^ntr' Or jc -^t. present. If you cannot get ^Uch of' u1" 's tco unsightly for you, a f6^SoA Unfr,^?0116 dusfc would benefit it ver>' ?? for ■rn^-tinately, it is a little late in the ? I ffa,-°Vatins lawns. If you had done v, &Ve h a £ iv'ce about this in March it it is ?r°curp een much better. In November ^Uci^p.cbean sOille basic siag and sow this in it. 80", it a ttre, and very effective in pro- ?\r' It tho inmroved class of vegetation. ^■Th ^ca ci e, rate of 6cwt. p3i- acre. Jhe ar^ }?clK.eils Dying in Shell.—" JCo. 1,555." w tch d3,1"10'^ reasons for chicks dying :n Sr0<)rfani0 times they are too weak to also v. 0a-UsP -L'om fowls that are related i^diicg his. Weak breeding stock would friy g.*1^ XJUch «ggs. They are very common, tfls p„ am always urging readers to ^3 arp'?n/'ion G> their breeding birds when +? hat ? Set 'ntended for hat<-fcing. When the .he s^ch. rr,,11 a too dry place they often fail i Tt ?1 bop. Parchment-like sabstanoe inside tT*tchj a]v/'rn°'s drv- and they cannot break a great- advantage to keen the s a .ln a moist atmosphere. Where dS0rile t^i°-l?n that it is dry the eggs should v *5 b«f water sprinkled over them a [•^bl,, *'en ti, °r,6 they are due to hatch. Do yours. ? hen is off feeding. I think nro- w Sood iifVe suffered in this way. It is "°0<3 ar:es r, n to emptv round the nests in t0 J* ln ^ry weather. Moisture is a tolling1. rns E0{FEPlXs I>' THE SUMMER TLME. ina:j arious sorts, especially the well- Th^-611 are favourite plants in all ?fQ.„'itioil 'r ^re-h, green foliage and graceful f«rJ>r' tljf, e hiost attractive, and when well 'ri bad aie always much admired, but a 011 h5,i?e condition is one of the most un- Plants. If the instructions I gave fro,1 they^v''V5 earlier in the spring were fol- Set ?f> anci I10w be forming immy young ?rep-! every effort should be made to ^Qn^c'c>lour -?evel°P fully and retain their borf'>s bec_ this can be done now, and the for jvf r°l3tl=t, thej- will then remain Bxd„;10u^. and ,)e a constant orna- y I'acl g them to draughts of cold air fri!l f'ern-r-t^em- is which causes °ear it ,° be scraggy in growth. They a \vih !ender. vte*' when hardened, but not air whf. ,allow them to remain in very wing j]1]6 t!^e wiRcl°w i;i open and the ^a^a°essurv + tiy through. I know it is Into ti?lace th« r °Pen windows. but at such tip e foom ns at one 6ide or further °tbp» r°orn r' °r' 1:f there are two windows J^ad'e ?en one and put the fern in the ^t"0\v: le. but ,yery. desirable to retain their thern • °ften done excessively. «^,>Ucate a i semi-darkness will make ths h .not "kg fd"d too pale in colour. Thev ?* £ oiifi?llt of h y exposed to the sun during 6 d-T to it i,, S4. strength, but they may be Jy- Thev v for°Part and afterpart of tve<Jlen^ys to' thev'-1 I10t be kej)t witJl one h*y ^ly' as v,t snt' but turn them round tvT,"Ul bp-j !n grown in this manner fe W ^ich i Utltully furnished all round a. V'erv fires kemaiWays most fav°ured. There ((!lite dry at,v,U!:) m rooms now to produce ^ois* Jl:sa-?ree. a -.wf^bere, with which ferns ofr<i °r a v, aen growing they delight in r obt.Vini ^umul atmosphere. The best *"te,. are ° hls w to place the pots in ■fJfi bQtt 10 usu-ti °Wlng in saucers filled with h! Hot Of tL way With these is to rest t«eiP tae pot in the water, but that Wailla*1astantly "la"ner of treating them. a'1 the v,nn1? in water causes the I o* the pot to become °"3 and soil suck up the water, and the plants usually become too wet at the root. This is much against their healthy growth. I do not know vfunrthing that is more so, and the growth of ferns in rooms is brought oftener to a standstill from this cause than any other. Once the soil at the roots becomes spongy the health of the plant will suffer and no good results will follow. I approve of having the saucers under them filled with water, as the evaporation which arises around the fronds is highly bene- ficial to them, but in using saucers place a little block of some kind in the middle of them and so high as just to be above the water level. Stand the bottom of the pot on this; the water will then be unable to saturate the roots or interfere with the drainage, and much healthier plants will be the result than in the usual way. Never give cold water to ferns. Always take the chill off. This is alsb a great help to them. Do not empty the water into the middle of the fronds or cro^vn, but put it on the soil at the edge. Putting it always in the middle often causes some of the fronds to decay. Should any frond decay remove it at once. If from any cause the roots become too dry ,and the fronds draop the, pot shoülc! at once be placed up to its rim in a. bucket of tepid water and allowed to remain there for half an hour. but ov-erdry- ness at thG root L most injurious to them, and ayoici it if possible. There is always a dis- position to give ferns liquid manure when growing, with the view of making them grow faster and become finer plants, but be sure they have plenty of root: hefore any liquid is given them. and then a liquid made from horse droppings and soot, given weakly, will benefit them. EGGS WITH PALE,COLOURED YOLKS. I heur from some readers that their eggs are not all so rich and deep yellow in the colour cf the yolk as they would like. I am quite familiar with what they mean. Where a variety or many fowls are kept all will not lay the same coloured eggs, either outwardly or inwardly. Eggs brown in colour are the favourites. They a.re looked upon a. being the most rich and nutritious. I am not of this opinion, as the colour of the shell has little or nothing to do with the contents. Very often a brown-shelled egg is found as ■pale in the yolk as a, white-shelled one, but while the colour of the shell makes no diffe- rence to the quality of the egg I think the colour of the yolk does. The rich-coloured one is certainly the best, and the very pale yolks give great indication of deficiency. It is the nature of some breeds to lay brown-shelled eggs ttnd others white, but it is the nature of none to lay eggs with yolks that are more white than yellow, and I quite agree with those who find many pale-yolked eggs inquiring for a remedy. Feeding has much, or, indeed, everything, to do with it. I have found potatoes and sharps two of the foods that caused the hens to lay palc-yolked eggs, and I have discontinued the me of sharps, and potatoes are not given at any time in any quantity. Meal composed of half barley an;* half maize is a rich food, and the hens that. are fed much on it rarely lay pale-yolked eggs. Th3 meal should be scalded hy emptying some boiling water on the top of it and then mixing. A little poa, meal added is excellent to Droduce the richest eggs, as grains, oats, wheat, and barley are all in favour of the right coloured yolks. Any kind of meat or gristle is also a help in this direction, and as an artificial material for improving the colour of the eggs as far as it is possible a sprinkling of Thorley's ovum mixed in the meal imparts great richness. These pods will, undoubtedly, produce the best class of eg-gs, but should any hea persist in laying eggs too pale in yolk she should be doctored a little by giving her half a teaspoonfui of Epsom Salts every other day for a week. Mix the salts in a little lard and push the ball down her »throat. These remarks apply to both fowls in confined runs and those with their liberty. HURRYING PEAS INTO PODS. Pea plants have grown very well this spring. Many of them are now showing flower, and their owners will be anxious to see them in pod and ready for gathering, as they are such a very favourite vegetable with all. Stimu- lating them at the root will not make them pod faster. It would induce them to make more growth, but that is not wanted, as they arc already in good leaf. The best means 1 know of to induce the pods to form and fill hurriedly is to nip the point out of every, straw. The extreme point only should be taken off. This will stop all further growth. The flowers near the top of the pari removed will open, but the lower flowers will soon pod, and it is astonishing how quickly they will fill afterwards. If the tops were left on t.heywould go on growing, and the energy of the plants would be used to meet this, whereas when they are stopped they have nothing to do but fill their pods. The stopping should be done sys- tematically, and not merely ,a growth here and there. VEGETABLE MARROWS, Vegetable marrows are very generally grown. They are purely a summer crop, but the fruit may he preserved in various ways' for winter use. The plants have a ve-ry pretty trailing habit, end are so-ornamental in this respect as to be admissible as decorative subjects. Last summer some beautiful results were obtained in the flower garden, Regent's Park, London, by edging some of the large foliage beds with vegetable marrows. The idea was somewhat original, especially in a swell Lon- don park, but the effect was most pleasing, and may very well be imitated. "The Garden," a horticultural paper, noted above all others for the artisticness of its illustrations, gave a most attractive picture of the arrangement. Vegetable marrow plants are obtainable in various ways. Many of them are offered for pale in markets, and are obtainable how. As they are sold at threepence or fourpence each, it is no great expense securing them in this way. One or two plants will afford as many marrows as the majority of households require. Get a wheelbarrow load or two of manure, make it into a mound, put a layer of soil over it to a depth of six inches, and plant the marrow on the top of the mound. As soon as it begins to lengthen in the stem peg it on to the soil to keep it from blowing about. Let it scramble as it may, but take the point out of any shoot that is intruding on anything else. If they are planted'to be ornamental in flower beds or borders a mound cannot be formed, but some manure should be dug into the soil where they are to be planted. The roots like richness. They may also be used as climbers, and trained up walls or on posts or trellises. The finest fruit is obtainable in this way. When the plants are raised from seed make a mound of stable manure. Cover it with soil, and put a few seeds in the top. The manure may ferment a little and'crcate a heat, and this will induce germination and rapid growth. Once they start into growth they are rapid in their action, and will be in fruit early in August. All should be grown in the sunshine. When the reverse the fruit does not form freely, and too much shade is often the cause of sterility. There are various kinds of marrows. The most choice for the table is the "Pen-y- byd" (the best in the world), and the large green is a good one where size is favoured. A PECULIAR SHOWER OF RAIN. On Thursday. April 11, we had a severe thunderstorm about six p.m. It became so dark in a welfrightcd room that I had to light a lamp to see to read the newspaper. Rain fell in a deluge for nearly an hour, and when it ceased the w^ter that had collected in dishes and receptacles, as well as in pools on the surface of the ground, was as black as ink. I never saw such dusky rain fall before. Prac- tice is my forte, and I am not scientific enough to define the elements of its dense coloured composition. It undoubtedly contained much soot, as next day my white Leghorn chickens and Aylesbury ducklings, which have access to the long grass in a coming crop of hay, became as black as sweeps in going through the long grass. I am in hopes that it is of a fertilising character for the garden and field crops, and that it also made the leaves on the fruit and other trees distasteful to the pests which injure them so much in many cases at this season. I shall certainly watch the result with interest. THINNING YOUNG VEGETABLE PLANTS. All young vegetables are now growing freely. The seed has germinated well and the crops are very promising, but the quality they attain will depend to a great extent on the attention they receive in thinning. If all are allowed to grow there will be a close mat of tops, but very poor roots in the case of vegetables of this type, while those which yield tops of a useful kind must also have room to develop individually. Overcrowded vegetables of all kinds are always deficient in quality. They never sell well in the market, and what is rejected there is of little use for private con- sumption. It is, therefore, most desirable that the thinning of them should be done pro- perly and in good time. When the operation is delayed the young piants will grow up in a thicket, and when any are removed those remaining generally fall over to one side. This hinders their after-development very much. The time to thin is just before they become crowded. I prefer making two attempts at thinning The first time the plants are left at half the distance they will stand at when growing as a crop. Parsnips are thinned the first time to four or five inches apart, turnips to three inches, carrots to about the same or a little less, beetroot to three inches, and so on. Wheii the leaves again meet every other planets drawn out, and al! are then in a robust state, and will continue so. The object of thinning them only half the distance the first time is in case of any failure, but that does not often occur now. All weeds should be removed when thinning is done, and run the Dutch hoe between the rows. INSECTS ON ROSE BUSHES. As is always the case in the time when the growth on roses is young, tender, a.nd juicy, I am hearing frequently from readers that their roses are infested with insects, mainly little green flies. I know the pest well. Indeed, everyone who grows roses do, as no plants are exempt from. it. They are experienced vege- tarians and capital judges. They avoid the old tough leaves and congregate and devour ¡ the choice pieces. The tender ends of the shoots and the newly-formed buds are their happy harbours and feeding grounds. They soon stop the progress of whatever they attack, and the growths and buds on which they are on will never develop into usefulness. They give nothing but disappointment, and this is especially keenly felt in the case of roses, as all look forward to their coming and appre- ciate them so much. In. large places, where there are syringes, garden engines, hoes, and such like, the bushes can be cleaned readily, or, indeed, the pests prevented from coming on, but smuM growers have often to do the best they can to prevent havoc, and without any special appliance. It is these I wish to benefit in a manner which will be inexpensive and effectual. Sonp-suds-a, liquid well known to every housewife—is one of the best cleansers that can be used. Put a wineglass full of paraffin oil to each gallon of the suds. Let one person stir it with a stick, and while this is going on another should put it on the roses. If a little syringe is obtainable use it; if not, get a watering pot with a perforated top at the end of the spout, and sprinkle the bushes through with this. It may also be put 011 them from a sponge, or, indeed, in any way that will moisten the foliage and buds. The evening is the best time to put it on, as it does not dry up quickly then, and the loaves remain moist till morning. Clean water may be applied in the same manner in the morning, as it will remove any dirt that the suds deposited. Anything in ths way of tobacco soaked in water and put en them is also very destructive to the insects. THE SAVOY CROP. The savoy v.-ould be considered a coane and unacceptable vegetable in the summer time, when the-seasonable aud choicer vegetables are plentiful, but when the frost or cold weather comes in late autumn and early winter and the better class vegetables fail savoys are must acceptable. As a November and Decem- ber green they are invaluable, and if the weather is not too severe they often remain good throughout the greater part of the winter. They bear a. considerable amount of frost, especially if well grown, and have formed hard heads, which is their best condition. It is a mistake to sow them too early, as they head too soon and decay accordingly. Early in June is the best time to sow the seed. The Green Globe is the best variety. The seed may be sown in a little bed or a row. The plants will be ready for putting out in July, and may be planted in ground that has become vacant after early potatoes and other crops. CATERPILLARS OX GOOSEBERRY BUSHES. The caterpillar is the greatest enemy the gooseberry has, and when once they take pos- session of a bush there is an end to its useful- no-s for the year, as well as a deterioration, which will be experienced the following year as well. It is when growth is young that they are troublesome. They cat the leaves whole- sale. They will soon defoliate a bush and leave nothing but the bare sterns, the little stumps of the leave. and the fruit fully ex- posed. 'U hen this occurs, as it does in very many cases, the fruit ceases to swell and it is a failure. The wood sometimes shrinks, too, and, although new growth may be formed later, it will* be of a very weakly descrip- tion, as will also the growth that is formed next year. The caterpillars multiply and .spread from blEll to bush rapidly, and they no sooner clear one than they are on another, or often they are all being eaten at the same time. Some say if broad beans are planted so as to come in contact with the gooseberry leaves the caterpillars will avoid them. That has never been my experience. I do not under- stand how it could he either a preventative or a remedy. My system is to keep a sharp look-out daily for the first appearance of a caterpillar on any part of the bushes, ana when once seen pick it off with the hands and destroy it at once. If this is done promptly and persevered in for a week or two at this time I venture to say that there will be no damage resulting from caterpillars. It is no great task, and a great number of bushes may be gone over in fifteen minutes, or half an hour at most. It is when they arc unheeded that they spread and establish themselves, and when this occurs hand picking is futile. Then other means must be resorted to. Dusting the bushes with fine fresh lime will destroy the caterpillars and stay their depredations. If hellebore powder, obtainable from the chemist's, is dusted over them it will kill them effectually, and this is the most destruc- tive substance I know of for caterpillars, but it is poisonous, and must be washed off the fruit next day with clean water. CUCUMBERS IN THE OPEN AIR. Those who have no glasshouses or frames to, grow cucumbers in may grow them in the open air now. The open-air variety is called the Ridge cucumber. Its leaves and habit are very .similar to the indoor cucumber, but it is very hardy, and will live and bear fruit quite well ,a,nywhere from now until October. The fruits are not more than six or eight inches in length, but they are quite as good in flavour as the large hothouse ones. This cucumber is the best of all for pickling, and in some parts acres of them are grown to supply fruit for this purpose, which afterwards become familiar to us in the pickles bought in the shops. They are very prolific, and the little fruit are often seen in crowds on the stems. I need not detail their culture, but would refer readers to my remarks on growing vegetable marrows in this issue on mounds. If the Ridge cucumbers are treated in the same way they will be a success in every respect. FOOD FOR YOUNG CANARIES. "Lancashire Coppy" writes;—"As a keeper of canaries in a large way, I know there are many of your readers who only keep a pair or two of these birds who are not very familiar with their rearing, and who would like to he success- ful in this. I will be glad to give them a few hints on their treatment, The hatching may be left to the hen, but the bringing up of the young birds successfully depends to a con- siderable extent on the owners, and especially on the kind of food they receive. Use little .shallow tins for feeding. Have two for each •cage; lEe them on alternate days. Be sure and wash or scald the disused tin each day. Nothing is more injurious to young canaries than tainted or sour food. The food cannot (be too sweet. Mix it up every day. Never ■use any that was mixed to-day to-morrow. It will soon be found out how much they require eacn day. and do not mix any more. My favourite food is stale or crumply buns and finely chopped egg. I have reared hundreds of canaries on no other kind of food. Boil a hen's egg hard and rub it through a very fine sieve. 1 he bun should also be rubbed through this If buns are not available biscuit may be sub- stituted. Do not put the whole of the food prepared into the feeding tin at once, but twice, or even three times, a day. A teas'poon- ful or less will be ample at once. The parents will convey it to the young ones, and when the young ones are able to feed themselves and are put in another cage still continue the egg food until they are quite strong. Cleanliness is most essential, not only for the comfcrt of the birds, but also to prevent the increase of vermin, which is most injurious and, indeed, deadly to young birds. Fresh green food must also be given them daHy. Lettuce, chickweed, groundsel, and dandelion are all suitable, but it ia well to vary it. The dandelion especially is highly beneficial, but all must be fresh. It will be well to note tha.t tho successful rearing of the young birds depends wholly on the good health of the parents, and if they can be kept right the youngsters .are not likely to suffer. I am still a grat believer in keeping a rusty nail in their drinking water constantly, and clea,n water must be given them every morning." PLANTING OUT DAHLIAS. Dahlias which have been started into growth in the spring will now have shoots on them a foot or more in height. Seedlings will also have attained a good height, and they will all have been gradually exposed to the open air of late. When quite hardened they may be planted out. They will now be very much better in this position than in the pots or boxes they have been growing in. To produce plenty of shoots and the finest flowers they must be planted in rich soil. It is useless growing dahlias in poor soil. The blooms would be deficient and of no durability. I may, however, remark that it is a mistake to plant them in too much manure, as some do, as they then make too much growth and do not flower so freely as desired. If a layer of manure is put in the soil in which they are to be planted to a depth of three inches and well dug in that will be enough. It should be deeply dug in to induce the roots to pene- trate into the cool soil and away from the drought. Make the holes large enough to re- ceive the roots without having to cram them in. Put the soil firmly round them and place a stake to each one on the same day as they are planted. Tie the shoots to these, as they are easily broken with the wind. Do not put the stakes higher than the height the plants are likely to atain. Three feet is enough. Dahlias are not very suitable for windy posi- tions, but in exposed localities sheltered spots can generally be found for them, and they are especially fine autumn flowers.

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IGRANTING INDULGENCES IN LLAXDAFF…

---._---WELSHMEN AND MARGARINE.

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