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ALL III U ' >:si<]RVi5U 1


ALL III U >:si<]RVi5U 1 "The passion for dress has never been so Vehement, so extravagant, so unreasonable as Ko. 2,572. BOY'S SCHOOL SUIT, 6 TO 8 AND 8 TO 10 YEARS. The new and fashionable suit here shown is com- posed of light and (lark fawn drill, hollaed, gmatea, Btnped linen or serge being equally suitable, rhe kiuok^rbockers :tro made in the usual maimer, being buttoned in the centre of fro at, and gathered at the *nee into a lxand of the dark material, fastened at .-ha with a buckle. The blouae is arranged with a *>°x-pieat down the centre of front, under which it fastens with 1 uttons the lower edge W gathered to 4he size required and stitched between a narrow iKUid, •V-iied under, and fastened with a button. A turn- <«\n collar of dark frill completes the neck, and the |1i1:V 'pvi\s are gathered ifito a wristband of the same, iXnese at the top being gathered into -the arm- hole. to yards of 26-ineh material will Ik* re- itllred, and i a yard for trimming, two buckles, nail 311x1 of ribbon. Tlie pattern w in 10 parts—lialf frr-nt and back of knickerbockers, knee hand, right ?"<l left front, and half back of blouse, collar, waist- one sleeve, and wristband. in 1895." So it has been written in the P^.?fes of a monthly publication and it has further said therein that "there is no Possibility of the sexes starting together on <\Ily basis of equality until women give up all the time they now devote to making •^emselves beautiful." An admired 9°ntributor to a contemporary writes ln her usual charming manner ln vindication of women's natural taste for pretty garments, and declares "It is almost ft law of Nature that we shall seek to make Ollrselves attractive, according to the chances and changes of the power we call Fashion, and try to avail ourselves of all the artistic. Resources at command." So say all or most of us. While women will take the trouble to clothe themselves attractively, so as to ^hance their natural charms, they will cer- thinly command the admiration, notice, and liervice of moo; and, while they care for a(lmiration, women will never desire equality ^ith men, which implies loss of attractive- loss of leisure, and loss of that protec- >on which, however they prate to the oon- rary, Is still dear to them. We cannot altet' 1)1,r natures, and the "Advanced" Women ho pretend to despise pretty garments and down as weak and foolisli those of their x who like to enhance their charms, by the °' 2.532. A WALKING COSTUME, 22, 25, AND 29 A 1NOH WAIST. flun walking costume is here shown, made of The £ loy>, and bUek bilk breAd for trimming. frnni H'K»uld be lined throughout with luienette darts goree are fitted to the figure A band fulness at back pleated into the band, tinueri P braid covers both front seams, and ij? con- finiaherl °U'V? skirt two inches from lower edge, j<Kiket Nv another row two inches above. The Wain v luite tightrfitting, and arranged with a MUttenp,i material secured on the left side and edge ofVtV''18ib!y wth hooks on the tight -side. The niece L fr()nt, which is cut in one with first sidr- t° the i„, ^pcorated with a row of buttons and bra d f>i <i0lli,if • yhere they are met, bv a rever sailor collar tnafel. A cloih' edg«d with two rows of braid to Over 6 oolla.r-band. Gig-ot aleeves are arranged into the t shape linings, and gathered frith tne armhole, finished at the waist to 7a Wuntlet cuff, trimmed with braid. lo £ varri«ar?f' of ^8-inch cloth wilt be required, and 'rorit \t, ot braki- The pattern is in 13 parts—hah *it.H and back of skirt, half vest, front JXilw 7X„81<lepiece, second sidepiece SUM! back o •tefcva *r» rever collar, upper wid undsr part 01 Un<taon, sleeve and cuff. **d. nf J Ww ^inty apparel, do not appeal to us. a vaat majority is scored by the lovers of becoming clothes And I believe both sexes are more than willing that the highest number should always remain with women who do not afreet masculine attire, nor mas- culine manners, nor, indeed, desire to be- neither pretend to be—other than Nature, not to mention a higher Power, evidently meant them to be-good girls, good wives, good mothers, sincere friends, gentle, chari- table, loving, modest; in short, womanly. I take heart of grace, therefore, and am encouraged to hope I may long continue to find interested readers of this column, for the majority of us love to look our best. I always fostered this very natural predilec- tion, convinced that ,{:nnen are not to be regarded as "frivolously minded" because they take a little interest in their personal adornment and find the performance of social duties pleasanter than haranguing on plat- forms and airing their imagined grievances aga-uist the other sex. Men and women con- trived to live in love and unity long before the "Advanoed" Woman was born or thought of. Some of them did noble—not to say heroic-deeds; they brought up sons and daughters who, ill their turn—doing honour to their training—were a credit to their progenitors, and to the world at large brought blessing and honour. No need to make com- parisons private records and national history furnish lis with thousands of such honoured names, and the quieter walks of life have and still do abound with Christian men and women who unobtrusively fulfil that greatest of obligations—the doing of their duty in that state of life into which it has pleased God to call them. It seems to me there is here summed up concisely, i.e., in a sentence, the whole duty of man, as set forth in a bookj very little read nowadays, but always a favourite of mine. It was the work of a member of the Lyttleton family, and, I be- lieve, was written more than a century ago at Hagley, in Worcestershire, the seat of the Lyttletons for many generations past. "The Whole Duty of Man" is the title of the book, and therein is set forth what that duty con- sists of. With "Tlie Imitation of Christ," by Tliornas a Kempis, and the volume men- tioned above, we shall need no "Advanced" Women to teach us the conduct of life, whether temporal or spiritual. There is no need either to apologise for the introduction here of serious matter. I have always main- tained tha.t a taste for dainty clothing is not inconsistent with intellectual ability, and all that is included and implied by that term, and I know I always find warmly interested readers when I touch on serious topics, and such as deal with matters wholly distinct from the topic introduced each week, namely, the question of clothes. The "King's Daughters." we know, were handsomely ap- parelled. But it seems as if I were apolo- gising for writing about clothes not at all, a.s I hasten, after some delay, to prove. "A Name to Conjure With." "Aooordian pleated" — these are words to conjure with. Every material seems to be crimped, goffered, or pleated. Silk, ribbon, chiffon, muslin—each and all are subject to this mode of treatment, and the fashion is so pretty and convenient, too, that we may reasonably hope" it will long continue in favour. For the loose-fronted vests now popular nothing can be better than accord-tan pleatgd silk if striped, the changeful face of the silk as it expands or contracts is charming; and when plain silk is pleated the effect produced is much softer and more becoming than it would be had not hot-pressing produced those fine, close folds, which need not be described further. Ribbon striped in various colours, and then aceordian pleated, is extensively used by milliners, When stretched, it forms fans of massed colours, thus fulfilling Fashion's dictum, I which is the introduction of as much colour variety as possible on hats and bonnets. Pique—known sometimes as "linen cordu- roy "—is very much worn during the present hot 'Heather. There is a certain firmness in this,ima,terial which makes it possible to cut from it the fashionable godet skirt, standing out all round tlie feet, but by no means any- thing but plain over the liips and in front, all fulness at the top of the skirt being strictly confined to the back, where it is arranged in double box-pleats. White, pink, blue, and mauve pique's are sold, and many piques are printed with a tiny flower in some con- trasting shade. Co-tumes of this kind keep cleau and in good condition much longer than cotton goods usually do. but are far less serviceable than alpaca; even white alpaca- is more serviceable than a coloured pique would prove. Young people (girls) always look well in white; and, if something want- ing in the complexion renders advisable the introduction of a little colour by way of re- lief, I suggest a loose vest of mauve aceor- dia.n-pleated silk, and a collar band and waist band of velvet in the same shade of mauve, or a black pleated silk vest, with velvet collar and cuffs, would be fashionable and elegant. Black alpaca, made up with a pleated vest of white silk and folded collar of silk, would be eminently servicable and attractive, and not in the least dowdy-look- ing. A white rough straw hat, sailor-shape, with a thick ruche of white satin ribbon round the crown, would be a suitable head- dress, or a black satin ruche in place of white; either is correct. Mauve and black are preferrable to pink and blue as a relief to 'white alpaca. These last-mamed colours really vulgarise it, though pale blue can be worn with black alpaca without producing the undesirable effect I have named. Cordu- roy costumes are deservedly popular. They are durability itself, so to speak; and, in pale golden tan, made up with black satin, are exceedingly smart-looking. I have seen a gown of this material made with sailor- collar revers and cuffs of black satin. I wish my readers could have seen it also, for I feel sure my description conveys no adequate idea of the elegance of this costume. By no means choose a thickly-ribbed corduroy, such as men wear neither run into the opposite extreme and choose too fine a cord—"Cord, du roi"—•the wear of some Kings of France, I believe, and now the chosen garb of some of ITaishion's queens Cool and Pretty Gowns. For cool and pretty gown-qualities that in the eyes of the majority lose nothing by the additional fact that the material is inex- pensive—nothing is better than all wool French delaines. Trimmed with ribbon in any of the thousand and one ways approved of fashion, no more dainty gowns could be de- sired by the most exigent of Fashion's youth- ful followers. Ma-trons may suitably wear delaines in da.rk colours for undress occasions, but the material is not rich enough for after- noon gowns, though, in lighter combinations of colour, delaine, trimmer ribbon, leaves nothing to bs desired on the score of smart- ness. White or cream book muslin, with raised spots, made up over white silk, is extensively used for bridemaids' dresses, garden parties, and similar smart day lime tions. Blouse bodices (to wtar over silk skirts) made of spotted muslin are very general. I think white satin ribbon the most suitable trimming, when the blouse is worn with or with coloured skirts, supposing no over-skirt of muslin is part of the gown- Should, however, the under skirt of silk be pink, the ribbon trimming on the bodice- blouse would correspond, of course. Muslins, daintilv sprigged with small flowers-plllk or china-blue on wit ite—would make up charm- inglv with ribbons repeating the colour of the' flower. But. with this notice of many other attractive fabrics, I must add there is really no chance that the ever-popular crepon will lose prestige. when making" an up-to-date skirt of such un- substantial material as muslin, delaine, corah- silk, Pongee-silk, Ac., difficulty must be ex- perienced in fitting the upper part of the skirt with that severity of outline demanded by \resent fashion. fttlness alkw-— such is the arbitary and distinct dictum of preva.iling fashion on this point. But dress- makers are equal to the occasion and, when they make up their fabrics, they gather them round the figure below the waist. This, gathering is done in a series of closelv-placed threads, or otherwise the gathers are arranged in groups, with adequate space between. About a quarter of a yard below the waist is the regulation depth for these gathers, hut no hard-and-fast rule can apply, as figure exigencies must be considered. Brides' Costume. A charming travelling dress prepared for a bride is of electric blue crepon. trimmed with electric blue satin and ecru guipure lace. The smart little toque provided is of burnt straw, trimmed with pink velvet, black chiffon rosettes, and a black aigrette. The bridemaids at this wedding are to wear white crepon gowns, trimmed white satin; hats of black fancy straw, trimmed wreaths of June roses. Dove-colour cashmere, trimmed white satin, was chosen for the going-away costume of a bride of my acquaintance, and, allowing the complexion offers no serious objection, a more elegant one could not he selected. Old aud New Shoes. It wi!! be remembered that I invariably counsel attention to foot coverings. Nothing in its way can look worse than a pair of shabby or ill-fitting shoes worn with an ex- pensive costume or one claiming attention No. 2,571. A USEFUL JACKET, 12 TO 14 AND 14 TO 16 YEARS. an(! serviceable coat ig of fawn cloth, with brown velvet for trimming. It is also suitable lor tweed, homespun or serge, to correspond with the skirt, and velvet in a darker ehade for trimming. ,are fitted to the figure by one breast darn each side, and turned back from the ncck to form revers, whioh terminate at the waist, where it fa.steni! with a ela.p. The two eidepieces and back are t.ght-fitting, and cut so that the fuinesa beAGW waist etaads out in the fashionable flutes. The neck has a roll collar of cloth to rn^et the levers, both being covered by a rever collar of velvet interlined with canvas. A velvet pocket flap lined with sarcenet is stitched just below waist on each front to imitate pockets. The sleeves are pleated into the armliole and trimmed at the wrist, with gauntlet culfo of velvet lined wtWroe.iet, and. interlined with canvas, 21 to 2i yardo of 54-meh cloth will he required, with i of a yard of 26-inch velvet. The pattern iF, in 9 parts front, two side pieces tuid back of jacket, rever collar, cuff, pocket flap, up|>er and under part of on the score of smartness. I was, therefore, gveatly interested in an exhibition of "Old khoes and New Shoes," held at the Cord- wainers'-hall, Cannon-street. It included boots and shoes of all shapes, sizes, and materials, many of the older exhibits claiming NO. 1,617. THE "SYLVIAN" BLOUSE, 22 AND 25 INCH WAIST. This stylish blouse is made of fancy delaine, trimmed with torchon lace insertion, or it may be copied in zephyr crepon, or cambric, for whioh the same trimmings are suitable. It is fastened invisibly with hooks in tlie centre of the front, where it is trimmed with a row of insertion, the blouse being set. in a single pleat Oil eithav side of this, with a row of inser- tion on the outsi le. The back is also arranged in a similar manner. A belt of the material keeps it in ptsition at the waist. A turndown collar, trimmed across with rows of insertion, will finish the m'ck. The sleeves are jratbered in the armhole, and also into a cuff at tlio wriefc, which is also trimmed across with rows of insertion. 2i to 2f yards of 44-inch material will be required, and 5 to 61 yards of iasertion. Tha pattern is in six parts—half front and lack of blouse, collar, belt, sleeve, and cuff. to have been worn by celebrated personages in the long agone. Among these is a huge top boot said to have covered one of the pedal extremities of a regicide, though it is claimed for Oliver Cromwell that he was the most justified of all regicides. Another inte- resting relic is a, shoe said to have been worn by Marie Stuart. The boots worn. by the famous John Churchill, Duke of Marl- borough, at the Battle of Blenheim are on view, and not far -away we isee a cap, gloves, and shoes worn by Lord Byron in' Greece' A very interesting exhibit is a pair of boots of large size, made out of the ear of an African elephant. The exhibition also in- cludes many curious copies of boots and shoes worn from 1216 to 1760, and many interesting specimens are lent by the authorities of the South Kensington Museum; also by the cor- porations of the cities of London, Liverpool, and Exeter severally, and by private curio collectors. Modern Crispins supply their quota to the show, for on the ground floor the entire process of modern bootmaking is shown. I felt the greatest possible interest in the objects I inspected, to some of which, as well be seen, a more than common interest attaches. So long as bare feet are regarded as a symbol of vagabondism, their covering will always remain a matter of importance. We have one and all a personal concern in their ma.nufa.cture, for not only do boots and aboea contribute to ear r&apaotabilify bat to our physical wellbeing and noral credit likewise. I defy anyone to be amiable, "bland," and, as the on Lady Jones further puts it, "deeply religious" when en- during the agony inflicted by a tight boot or shoe. In the days of the Inquisition the torture chamber boasted of an instrument made in the form of a boot. We have often good reason to feel great sympathy with those on whom that cruel boot was fitted, for it is proverbial that a fellow-feeling makes us wondrous kind. I cannot quote verbatim the epitaph I have just alluded to, but it runs something after the following inconsequent fashion:—"Here lies the body of Lady o' Looney, grand-niece to Burke. She was bland, passionate, and deeply religous. She painted in water colours, a.nd sent several pictures to the exhibition. She was sister to Lady Jones. 'And of such is the Kingdom of Heaven.' I fear I shall be said to have arrived at the age of anecdotage, for the fol- lowing was recalled to memory by the anni- versary of the death of Charles Sickens, on which day many of his admirers made a pilgrimage to Gad's Hill, where some of this favourite author's works wsre penned, in a summer-house in the garden. It was at Gad's Hill that the novelist died twenty-five years ago. Now for the anecdote. A dear old friend of mine (happily, still alive), who was very intimate with the father of Mrs. Dickens, was with his own family visiting Broadstairs, Charles Dickens and his wife and children being then temporarily located in the cottage on the cliff, now known as "Bleak Huuse"-the name given, it will be re- membered, to one of the author's most charm- ing books. The actor, Macready, and some other of the friends whom Dickens loved to gather around him, were then visiting Broad- stairs, and, of course, constantly seen in company with him. My old friend tells me that, being on the beach one fine morning, I he inquired of an old salt if lie knew which way Mr. Dickens had gone, and received the' following reply —"]STo; I doant; but I see him here just now with one of his accom- plices 1" The accomplice spoken of was none other than the late Mr. Macready. Recipes. Strawberries supplied as a dessert are not now crushed. They should be sliced, placed in a glass bowl, and sprinkled with sugar; whipped, sweetened cream is served in a glass dish. It should be very stiff-the cream, I mean—and sprinkled with "hundreds and thousands." Orange Cocoanut Cream.—This is a very delicious dish, to be eaten either at the dinner or supper table, or served after dinner as a dessert dish. Remove the skin from the fruit, and take out the orange pips with great ca,re, so as to destroy the shape of the flakes. Lay the oranges in a glass dish or china bowl, and put over a ?ood layer of dedicated cocoa- nut. Finally, whip some cream to a stiff froth, .sprinkle with seed-comfits, and serve. The dessioated cocoanut can be bought at any grocer's. Cocoanut Cones.—Take one pound pow- dered sugar, 5lb. dessioated cocoanut, the whites of five eggs; whip the eggs to a very ,stiff froth, adding the sugar as you go on, until the whole will stand alone. Now beat in the cocoanut little by little. Lastly, mould the paste into small cones, and arrange them on buttered paper in a baking tin. Bake in a very moderate oven.