Weekly Mail

ALL BIGHTS RESERVED. I n In vain do I search the shops for some F novelty wherewith to season my discourse. quest is productive of nothing that can t *y_tihe smallest claim to the term "novel," f am bound to fall back on such trifling Rations of familiar modes therewith to content readers wto will search my column I ^hi0Itle *n^0rmi^0'11 rela'tive to prevailing I The Toque Supreme. i I observe that toques are becoming more I S^a-eral every day here in deserted London, I know for a fact that at Goodwood, I e the smartest toilettes are worn, the r toque reigned supreme among feminine head- I ^ars- It was thought some while back bonnets larger as to size and with longer not to speak of the threatened return ) of curtains—would come in with the first f °f autumn. Not 'so, it appears- Only i Joiwnalist—who is nothing if not up- but who has to write in some eases ] in advance of publication of a weekly | j^Per—can tell how mortifying it is to find ( «,* weather or the fashion to which j i e called attention has changed and put 1 ^together in the wrong. Such was my Tre last week. I wrote my article when •UiYering with oold and sorely in need of 's 8-nd flannels, and bv the time the J pnw-l was published the" grasshopper had i eco»ne a. burden by reason of the prevailing T^A' ^*ou prophesy that such and such 4 will maintain, and are convinced that 1 n Will verify your statement, and *hen, j l's if out of pure malice, the unexpected f| j^ppens, and you find yourself altogether B a^T mark. However, learning caution, H must, I see no danger of any falsifica- » ii011 the assertion that toques will prove p 9 headgear of the future. The new toque r ^und—not oval, as were those of seven -sars ago—and the crown is slightly uome- :.»iaped. Occasionally there is a turned-up j"1, more or less indented with rosettes of tivet or of ribbon. Sometimes quill feathers l&ce, with flowers, figure on the same :-ld laoe, with flowers, figure on the same j'Oque. Anyway, the aim is to keep it quite w and give a wide effect by trimming it k olUld the edge. Colours a.re there brought ™ Proximity that hitherto were considered Qkly antagonistic, and even now, wjtli }-, ,? sanction of fashion, appeaar irreconcile- V jJ. e- Toques made of deep yellow straw U a rough plait are the favourite basis for 9 milliner's operations. Maj.enfca flowers, e eea wings, with a touch of pink or of r *vi constitute the trimming, a -;n kless disregard of all pre-conceived1 rales 1 ;/e?;ird *0 colour propinquity being a oon- 'Plcttous feature of our latest millinery. Quilt? and Coverings. af/!L^laS keen a Puzz^e to ine the °n ^10usie^s,eper9 entertain for marceila they are weighty, without eorre- ^"onding warmth, and in this respect cannot of jy?^eRic coverings; and then the expense .*au-Qdrying them is not small, for the ^aite quilt soon soils, and repeated washing jj. 'aPt to tend to discolouration, for it is P°Ssible to rub it in the ordinary way, tlie said size and weight, and the is often tardily accomplished Wing to these drawbacks, unless, indeed, the ^J3"1,> exceptionally fine or windy. Out- lu) 8 the conditions named, the marcella quilt, Wsver immaculate as to colour, always I SIDE HAT. I ?a<le of Pretty hat for watering-place wear. It is j Sold straw, the inside of the brim being f Static! rjK w.ith green. It is simply trimmed with a th roses and black mercury wings, ft ilJh a no„i ?eck is worked a band of green velvet sta buckle. I?6«5S + | ?^e "(a,0 some dainty bedspread to re- fte- "^re-looking expanse of white that Z", 0 It unfurnished appearance to a i t is the custom in many houses for Mien 1?Senaaid to remove the counterpane xtfJ^ring tihe bed for the occupant j- ^tiretv the blanket exposed in *ts | Qj teaves much to be desired on the j '!rflaite KJ.f'-ance' There are many extremely gM^teads made for decoration by 1 ^4e,l-» » squares, richly embroidered and r white muslin-lined coloured ( ft°ver. r a 10in- frill, .is another popular Iton ^or use^u^ wear, I find printed Ox vi shcetmg excellent from every point is artistic and inexpensive, and 86 o^test admirably. With 18 its retention during the night ^^sistent with the views of the most y housewives. Then there are V Printed cottons, which make very "*8 bedspreads. That the patterns C°1ji°UTinJlS goes without saying. The ivM s0j?' too, is delightful—rich, dull tone 0j er blends also. This material is a Sht. ci-ape, and is very light in tih'np 6 price, I believe, is one shilling SPeQce the yard1. Ready-made, with ce all round, the spread costs le exrii' or a trifle more. Made at home W Wou^ 'J3 considerably less. I hv p?T give an adequate idea Jajvr.°Ur'nos of this artistic fabric; like Ka ailese designs, there is a quaint irre- j4s regards colour and pattern that Ig^Ption. Printed Bolton sheeting exPensive, and cretonne is cheaper rp}" of tine materials previously Ott^^ide,- i 0 a Pretty cretonne, with ftin a amount of yellow in it, whiclh ^P^n-co the yard, and with a wide ^QWTI a- Yer^ spreiad. Our quilts, which are not now in

SEASONABLE DISHES. FOUR DELICATE WAYS OF SERVING LAMB HERE COMMENDED. Remove the skin from a brest of lamb with most of the fat, and cut into neat pieces. Dredge these with flour and put them into a stewpan with an ounce or fresh butter, letting them remain until lightly browned on both sides; add enough warm water to nearly cover, some sprigs of parsley tied in a bunch, and a small onion. Cook until the meat will only require about twenty minutes' longer cooking skim the fat from the surface, take out the parsley and onion, throw away the former and mince the latter, returning it to the pot with three cupfuls of shelled g-reen peas. When the peas are tender, place the meat on a hot dish, take out the' peas with a perforated ladle, place them around the meat and send to the table with the gravy in a boat. Broiled Shoulder of Lamb. 1 Many excellent dishes can be made from the cheaper parts of lamb. Take the shoulder, weighing- two or three pounds, and cook slowly in water until tender lift out and press between two plates until cold. Then score the flesh to the bones in inch squares and rub well with a powder made by mixing one teaspoonful each of salt and pepper and half a teaspoonful of mustard. Broil over a clear fire, but several inches above it, until hot through, place on a hot dish, dot with butter, add a few drops of lemon juice, and serve. Lamb's Tongue with Brain Sauce. Boil one or 'more tongues in salted water until tender. Tie the brains in a piece of muslin, after washing them and picking the fibres from them, with a teaspwjjfful of minced parsley to each pair of brains, and simmer in salted water for fifteen minutes. Drain, chop fine, season with pepper and salt, add a gill of cream and a teaspoonful of butter cut in bits and rolled in flour. Simmer for two minutes, skin the tongue, place on a hot dish, and pour the brain sauce around it. Braised Shoulder. Have your butcher bone a shoulder of lamb, fill the opening with any kind of a forcemeat, sew up and braise slowly for two hours. Serve on a puree of spinach. As a regular braising- pan is seldom found in ordinary kitchens, it may not be amiss to say that as good a result can be obtained by skewering a few slices of very thin, fat bacon over the meat to be cooked, and then simmering slowly in a close-covered sauce- pan, adding only enough water to keep from burning.

USES FOR CHAMOIS. Articles Painted or Embroidered Chamois May be Cleaned. Many pretty things can be made of chamois skin. It takes oil or water colours beautifully, and can be embroidered if desired. A very handsome cloak scarf was painted in water colours with a design of a cluster of wild roses and forget-me-nots, and the motto, The hours are viewless angels," in brown. A narrow border of brown dotted with gold was put all round the scarf, and an irregular, wavy design in gold completely covered the entire surface around the flowers. The fringe was cut three inches deep and washed over with pale brown, showing dashes of gold. Chamois may be used to make a very pretty cushion and headrest for a small rocking chair. They should be painted with some pretty floral design, or a conventional pattern in bronze would look well. The headrest should be fringed. A chair painted white and gold would be particularly dainty ornamented in this manner. A handsome toilet set of blue satin, con- sisting of a cushion with two bottles, can be decorated with chamois. Paint a square of the material and have the edges pinked. Place this over the cushion and fasten the corners with bows of baby ribbon, finishing with a triple box-plaiting of satin ribbon. Cover the bottles with satin, and cover this with sitili cut in lattice work. Finish, the tops with box-plaiting of satin or a bow of satin ribbon.' Glove and handkerchief cases are often made of chamois. For a glove case take a piece of chamois 15in. long and 6in. wide for the upper part. About two-thirds of this should be cut across diagonally in a lattice-work pattern with a sharp knife, and each open- ing should be bordered with lines of gold and pale blue. The word" Gloves" should be lettered in blue and gold on the end of the case, and the two ends cut into fringe, each strip being Jin. wide and tipped with blue and gold. Line the eha.mois with blue silk, which will show through the openings. Make the bottom of the case of blue silk laid over sheet wad- ding well perfumed, and catch down with bows of baby ribbon or quilt. Finish the edges with a puff of silk. This case can be adapted for handkerchiefs or cravats with a few changes. Chamois makes pretty stand covers. Cut to fit the top of the. stand and decorate with painting- or gilding-. The edge should bs finished with fringe of the chamois, made by clipping it in quarter-inch strips. Paint the ends with colours used in decorating the top of the cover. In fancy work bags, ribbons two inches wide are combined with the chamois. For the top of the bag sew together four strips. each one-quarter of a yard long, two pala blue and two yellow. The upper edge is hemmed two inches deep, and two shirr. are run in for the draw-strings, which conr sist of narrow ribbon of the two shadeC Two chamois strips, five inches deep, font; the bottom of the bag. A fringe two inches deep is cut in the lower edge. A sprig of forget-me-nots is then painted on the chamois band and is bordered on each side with a painted blue band. Fancy little tobacco pouches made en- tirely of chamois are decorated with small overlapping circles in clusters, painted in various colours. The bottom of the bag is cut in fringe and the top edge ornamented with a row of painted circles, the chamois cut out around their upper edges. Gashes are cut an inch or so from the top in which to run ribbon draw-strings. A novel little bag, which need not be used for tobacco, can be made as follows Cut tha chamois in the form of a sunflower, having one row of long, brown petals, and lay this on a large round of brown plush or satin. Herringbone or buttonhole the chamois with heavy silk of yellow or brown each petal il thus sewed separately to the plush. Tha centre of the chamois should have a, round of cardboard between it and the plush, which forms a bottom for the bag. Finish with THE OLGA BONNET. This dainty hat is made in reddish hrown stlAft trimmed with a bunch of violets perched at the back. At either side are rosettes of white mousseline da soie and straw aigrettes, the whole being finished with a couple of mercury wings. drawing-strings of brown aud yellow silk cord and a crescent tassel of brown and yellow at the bottom. Coloured chamois is now sold, and diffe- rent colours are used together with very pretty effect. This material can easily ba stained with water colour, or oil colour thinned with turpentine, applied with a sponge. Tapestry colours are well adapted for painting- on chamois, but. oil and water colours are more generally used. Oil colours should be thinned with turpentine, as for dye-painting. Fancy articles decorated with embroidery or oil colours may be sent to the cleaners, whence they will be returned look- ing like new.

WINDOW-SHADE HINTS. In re-placing a window shade that has been torn from the roller, use nothing- but one-ounce tacks; longer tacks injure the. spring. Always fasten the round hole bracket on th. right-hand side of the window. Always place roller in brackets with shadf: rolled up. To strengthen the spring, draw the shadfe down a few revolutions, remove roller from brackets, roll up shade, and re-place. If the spring is too strong, remove rollet from brackets with shade rolled up, unroll t few turns and re-plaoe.. If the shade is tacked on properly it wifl hang toward the window. To fit a shade to a window with inside shutters, measure inside moulding nextto shutters To shorten a roller for window with inside shutters, measure from tip on spring side and allow half-inch for roller end; it will then roll freely in the brackets. Always see that roller is cut true and that roller end is free from imperfections arising from casting. To properly wind a spring roller for ordinary length shades, fifteen to sixteen revolutions length shades, fifteen to sixteen revolutions are sufficient. In mounting a shade on spring roller, place spring .rl to the left. A of bread, not too fresh, will remove all dni srom shades; never use oils.

use, should be re-covered if the cases are soiled, and so will be ready whon ohills of autumn render them necessary to our oom- fort once more. Burnet has some delightful printed sateens which have the effect of satin; these are to be had in various com- binations of colour and are especially suit- able for casing eider down quilts. Very in- expensive and smart bedspreads are Dhe brightly coloured rugs made of waste Italian silk. A large size costs 2s. only. Thrown over the foot of the bed they prove most effective. As sofa rugs they are equally appropriate. More than once before I have called attention to these charming and mar- vellously inexpensive cover's. I am seldom without two or three; they are so very cheerful-looking and retain their bright tints undimrfied to the end. Decorative Articles. While on the subject of useful and deco- rative articles, I may call attention to one that is .simply ornamental. It is a flower- 1 pot cover, made by cutting the sticks from a fan, after which it is stretched to th» v:o of the pot, where it will form a e, s < fluted folds. I think such a cover preff. to those made of orinkled paper or of -;[1k, &o., and it is certainly more durable, and does not collect dust so easily, or, rather, dust can, when collected, be removed with greater facility. Taste in selecting the colour of the fan to tone with that most conspicuous in the room the plant will occupy is pre- supposed. There are so many ways of making our rooms charming without going to the impossible—impossible to many people —expense of costly furniture, either antique or modern. Excess of drapery round and about objects that seem to appeal against it in the eyes of common-sense is rarely seen now, and, though a few well-disposed fans are by no means to be despised by the cheap decorator, their colouring should be correct To secure these fans one must, I think, go to L' b,-T-ty or to Stephens's or other dealers in "art" wares. Not long since, in the rooms of a friend who is by no means overburdened with money, I admired a corner book-sheli, or, rather, shelves, which cost a. mere trifle, answering the strictly useful purpose for which they were designed. The arrange- ment challenged admiration also. There were a series of three shelves fixed one above the other and at suitable distance apart. They were sup- ported by narrow cleats screwed into the wall. The woodwork was enamelled Indian- red, and the edges finished with leather to match, pinked at the edge and fastened with ornamental nails. If the home library be more extensive than my friend's is, there could be a series of five shelves or more, which, however, should not rise higher than *h,<- wood casing of the door, or doors, and where economy of the strictest order has to be exercised, instead of leather, strips of art serge or felt might be used to edge the shelves. The distance of the lowest bracket from the floor should not be less than 3Mt, As I have hmted before, I am no admirer of superfluous draperies of flimsy character, but portiers, window curtains, loose rugs thrown over sofas or large easy chairs, or maybe a length of silk or art serge draped on the upper edge of the tall screen (that I consider indispensable in bed and sitting rooms), and maybe hanging in graceful lines at either end—all such draperies tend much to improve the appearance of the room and greatly minister to the comfort of the occu- pant—to physical comfort, if not to mental satisfaction. I find it impossible to feel at rest in an ugly room—nor could I possibly pen my articles thereinthough often when occupying temporary apartments by the sea or lodgings in the country I have had to re^y entirely on the few cushions and dainty covers that always forms part of my impedi- menta to produce an. effect that will leave my mind free from the hampering, not to say paralysing, consciousness of the barren- ness and probable unredeeming ugliness of the normal surroundings. Flowers always are a. great refuge; one can choose colours that relieve and brighten; one or two bowls, and just a simple vase of good shape, are so easily packed. The vases of the lodging- housekeeper, as a rule, would almost vulgarise the choicest and most careifulily-selected flowers- Usually my first overt act when entering lodgings is to sweep q.vay-often to my landlady's disgust-all her so-called ornaments and, the antimacassars that, with- out beauty to protect, have not the least excuse for their presence, for there is never any freshness in the upholstering of sofas and chairs to protect. Wool mats are also abominable in my eyes—so away with them. One of the Italian rugs laid over the foot of the bed, and another on the sofa, with a, curtain of art serge hung over the door, the paint of which is often distressing in colour, and probably dirty in addition, not to mention the furniture panelling of the same piece of carpentery, will do much to redeem the homeliness of the most homely rooms, or the more exasperating tawdriness that paisses for airt in the uneducated eyes of their real owner. A green blind that one can tack up to exclude at will the glare so often experienced near the sea, will prove most restful, and as the chairs in lodgings, as a rule, have no claim whatever to be styled easy, a folding chair that may be extended to form a couch, with a cushion for a pillow, or be contracted into a seat, with upright back at will, will be found a great addition to comfort. A length of cre- tonne cut the size of four trunks, with a falling frill, will turn that receptacle into a. smart box ottoman. It may be for lack cf accommodation in your bedroom, the sitting- room will have to find standing room tor Hie trunk. The fortunate folk who can afford decent lodgings at six or seven guineas a YOUNG LADY'S COSTUME. This pretty dress is very becoming to slight girlish figures. The material is cotton crepon, striped diagonally in red and ecru and trimmed with embroidery in the same colours. A wrinkled band of red silk is worn around the waist. The square yoke effect is caused by a cluster of small tucks that finish at yoke depth at front aud back. Stylish sleeve caps of embroidery droop over the full double puffs that are gracefully arranged over coat-shaped linings, faced to the elbow with the material. Simulated cuffs of embroidery finish the wrists. The skirt is gored to distend stylishly at the bottom, the front and sides fit closely at the top, the fulness being con- fined to small space in centre of back, where it falls in graceful folds to the lower edge. week may scoff at suggestions of which they have, happily, no need to avail themselves. but a majority of us are, I fear, not in a pOlsition to despise such considerations in relation to comfort. Anyway, to have a few things, including favourite books, about one CHILD'S DRESS. I This pretty costume is made of mauve batiste trimmed with white guipure. The skirt is trimmed with an insertion of guipure surmounted by two large folds. The epaulettes are of mottsseline, finished with rosettes of ribbon, and the bodice is of guipure over batiste. tends to give an agreeable sense of home, even when the a,partments leave little to be desired on the score of material comforts. Hints for Seaside Trippers. Rainy days will come, and these are always a. trial to mothers, more especially when she has removed her family from the thousand and one interests of home life, and has located herself and them in lodgings where the rooms are probably small and means of indoor amusement have not been pro- vided, supposing that the state of the weather prohibits the supreme and varied atractions to be found on the sands. Now, the biow- -ijig of soap bubbles is a. never-failing source of amusement to the young. Indeed, I have known older people find great fun in blowing bubbles, requiring only a few short clay pipes and a soap bubble solution, made of warm water and Castille soap, to which a few drops of glycerine may be added. The water must be thick with soap and then you will obtain all the primary hues of the rain- bow. The glycerine tends to make a more 7 durable bubble. Naturally this amusement may entail slight damage to smart frocks and not improve costly carpets and furniture, but it is easy to attire children suitably,, and the carpets and furniture in seaside lodgings have stood rougher usage and appear little the worse for it. Each child should be furnished with a small bowl and a iiroe, and the tiny creatures will be merry over the bubble blowing for hours. If your nerves a-re not easily rasped—and I do sin- cerely hope they are not—the game of "Wolf" will certainly amuse the chicks, for they dearly love the sound of their own little tongues, and "Wolf' not only gives them a fine chance of exercising their lungs, but their imagination also in the production of their imagination also in the production of howls more or less unlike that of Little Bed Riding Eood's consumer and the rest of his terrible dsn. Some one must stand in the centre of the players and relate a story concerning wolves. When the narrator mentions the name "wolf" lie alone must howl: when, however, the plural is used the entire company must howl in chorus; should any fail to do this she, or he, is out for a few minutes. In the case of older children the player who forgets to howl out the word "wolves" must take the place of the narrator, and may retire or join the general company, as preferred. A Rich Seed Cake. One pound flour, lib. butter, lib. sifted sugar, eight eggs, powdered cinnamon and nutmeg -LOZ,, Izo.. carraway seeds, and one 4 glass of sherry. Warm the flour, beat the butter to a cream, mixing in the powdered susra-r, but not before the butter is creamed. Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs sepa- rately, and then pour them into the cream; mix them with flour and spices, then the rest of the ingredients, and stir for an hour. Butter a cake tin, and bake in a. quick oven until done. The lightness of a cake is mainly due to thorough incorporation of the in- gredients severally. -&.