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FEMININE FANCIES, OIBLES, AND FASHIONS, r v BY "MURIEL." TALL RIGHTS RESER VED. .0 THE INDIAN SUMMER IS HERE. The unexpected has happened, for, after all, when we wrote or talked about the St. Martin's summer that was ahead, few of us really entertained any idea that it would visit us. We merely pretended to believe what we wished to be true. Bat here is the hot weather, indeed. We may put on our summer things, and, oppressed by the unwonted heat, look with something akin to loathing at the heavy Harris tweeds and other thick woollen materials which a short time back were so pleasant to contemplate, shivering mortals that we were. Their value will be understood by us later on, for it is only a short respite we enjoy. THIS BY THE WAY. I hope that none of my readers intend to indulge in materials patterned with hairy discs, which look very like large moles or incipient beards. They arc really gross to a refined taste, as suggestive of what cannot be pleasant to the eye, nor in any case to be desired. THE BEGINNING OF THE TRAIN. Literally, all new skirts are made to rest a few inches on the ground. There may be many gores, or one gore only. The latter make commends itself to me as more elegant than a series of trimmed seams reaching from hem to waist. With double-width goods the material is carried round the figure, the selvege being at tjie top. At the back of the skirt there is a seam so much gored that there are few if any gathers at the waist, but the short train falls in ample folds as it descends. The effect is really graceful, and were it not that one thinks of the inevitable accumula- tions which must be gathered up during a walk through the streets. I would not fail to praise this stylp., but if cleanliness be next to godliness" then to commend such a fashion is downright an advocacy of unrighteous- ness. DUE TO THE THREE QUARTER CAPES. One fashion gives rise to contemporaries, and the long three-quarter pcket is responsi- ble for these lengthened skirts, for a very much elongated out of door coat looks ridi- culous worn above an all round short walking dress. Hence, the lengthening of skirts gene- rally. EXPECT A CHANGE. The long cape is by no means to reign paramount among winter garments. I have seen some double-breasted cloth ooatees that reached almost to the knees, and there are other shapes which alike deepen abnormally, so that I should not be surprised to see a re- turn to those princess tight-fitting coats with fur bordered edge so popularly worn seven or more years ago. They were very graceful, and a woman with a good figure who carried herself well never looked better than in one of these coals. BETTER TOO FEW THAN TOO MANY. No one seems at all sure whither fashion is tending. It seems certain that the only way to keep pace with her rapid transitions is to have only one or two gowns at the most- that is, just sufficient for one's requirement— and to wear those while they are strictly in the mode. When it changes wo can, without compunction, change our gowns, not being burdened with a superabundant wardrobe fitted to repletion with thinga entirely out of date. FOR THOSE WITH LIMITED INCOMES. I am glad to chronicle any fashion or means of embellishment that girls can work out at small cost, since their pin money is not usually in excess of their needs, and often quite out of proportion to their desire for pretty articles of dress. The following sug- gestion was the result of a visit to the City last week. There I saw a gown made with yoke and cuffs covered with guipure, the lace being jewelled with pink tepize3. There is no difficulty in enriching guipure in this manner, and for full dress the Pattern may be outlined with silver thread, I need hardly remind my readers that the pierced jewels to which I refer are sold at a very low price, so as to be within the reach of all. Imitation turquoises are, perhaps, more uied than rubies, amethysts, and similar gems, but the first-named mixed judiciously with imitation diamonds are extremely effec- tive, and for trimming black gowns cannot be surpassed. SLEEVES FOLLOW SKIRTS. Sleeves get longer and longer, extending over the back of the band sometimes. When 80 cut the material is hollowed away at the Wrist in the direction of the palm. Other- wise, the sleeve is made to reach below the wrist bone and then is rolled upwards. Two PAIRS OF SLEEVES. I see that ljSiJ Ellen Terry—whose taste in dress, like that of most actresses, is perfect— Wears under-sleeves, which come well below the sleeves pertaining to the gown, which are cut wide enough at the bottom to give room for the superadded and under-sleeve. The latter fit the arm, and are made of lace for evening wear, linen re-placing lace for day Wear. The under-sleeves worn many years ago were important features of the dress of that time, though the hideous, red cashmere Puffs, covered with barred, transparent muslin -the two of much valume-could not be called artistic. Neat little muslin puffs, ending in a band of velvet [round the wrist, were very pretty, however, and might be introduced with advantage in present styles, for the sleeves which button close to the wrist and are devoid of any finish seem rather too severe for beauty, and When the wrist is bony or red those defects are rendered undesirably conspicuous. The cavalier cuft is still worn, sometimes in very exaggerated form, but the prettier make is about four inches wide, suddenly sloping upwards and outwards. The edges are not joined, so to that the lining of silit shows slightly. A. few large, handsome buttons are sewn on in a line in the direction of the elbow they keep the edges of the cuff together. THEY COME AS A BOON AND A BLESSING. The shaded ribbon velvets, of which I have written before, are likely to supersede flowers and feathers as a trimming for millinery. The colours are so well blended that the rib- bons, though very smart, have no appearance of vulgarity, which is the usual effect pro- duoed by a mixture of vivid colours that are in strong contrast to each other-blue, pink, orange, violet, green, yellow, &c. Trimmed ,with the new ribbon, hats and bonnets can be irorn with almost any dress, for they are sure to repeat its colour. As the dull weather ..advances we shall be more than pleased- indeed grateful—for the brightening of the rtoiW W1.1,,11 these ribbons effeot. THEY WILL tl TA.KB." To wear a trained gown necessitates extra attention to foot covering, for the train must fee lifted oooasionally, and this exposes shabby ots remorselessly. I see that a maker of ftbionabfo boots is introducing side lagin ia place of buttons, which increase in appear- ance the size of the feet. Elastio sides were really an improvement upon buttons, but the elastio gave out and then looked very untidy, worse even than the slovenliness imported by the absence of one or two buttons. I believe that laced shoes will take the public fancy. Anything which tends to neat- ness is desirable. It is no un- common experience to see a smart gown worn with untidy boots. American women and French women are greatly our superiors in the attention they pay to this part of their toilet. Neatly covered hands and feet will competely redeem a somewhat shabby or old-fashioned gown-a fact of which, it seems, women are ignorant, or otherwise doubt. Very fanciful shoes are pretty enough in the shop windows, but only Cinderellas can afford to wear them. Slippers covered with embroidery and jewelled, as many are, must inevitably add size to the feet, which is a sacrifice to fashion few can afford to make. A handsome buckle on a neat plain shoe is the safest thing to wear when the feet are not fairy-like. DRESSES I HAVB SEEN AND LIKE. I, Messrs. Russell and Allen always have; something unique to show us. Among novelties displayed I saw a dress of almond j colour brocade, covered with a stlaggling pattern of yellpw marguerites, pink clover, j and appropriate foliage. At the foot of the gown was a very narrow and exceptionally full ruche made of thin silk, green, yellow, pink, and almond colour severally. This grouping of the colours, which appeared in the pattern of the brocade, had a very happy effect. Another dress for more useful wear was one of yellow green woollen material with a dull surface. The skirt opened nar- rowly on one side to show a panellof cream woollen, with narrow stripes of coral pink. This panel was accordian pleated, but only just wide enough to give relief to the green skirt, the edges on either side the opening being trimmed with narrow silver braid. The bodice, made with short points back and front, was outlined with ribbon velvet about an inoh and a half wide. It was carelessly knotted at the back, the ends falling as low as the hem of the gown. Very many dresses are made with bodices of this class. The long basque so universally worn was absolutely disfiguring to many figures, and re-action once set in, a rapid change of fashion may soon be looked for. IT MAY APPEAR EXTRAVAGANT, BUT IT IS NOT. Most elegant drases have a selection of gloves, hose, and veils, so that there may be perfect accord between the gown and its acces- sories. This abundance at first sight may appear to savour of extravagance, but it is not so; the practice is rather economical, to say nothing of elegance. Fashion in articles of this kind changes rarely, and certainly is not likely to do so before the articles are severally worn out. It makes all the difference to a woman's appearance this attention to the adjuncts of the toilet. A false note in music produces discord. The same jar in effect is that brought about by the introduction of any minor article of dress that is inhar- monious. A HINT TO GLOVE BUYERS. Tan shades in gloves tone best with dresses of particular colours. Mushroom colour gloves are agreeable with gowns of another shade. When about to purchase gloves it is, therefore, advisable to wear the dress they are intended to accompany. If the intended purchase is laid against the dress, it will be seen at once whether the colour harmonises or not. VEILS LONG AND SHORT. Mask veils are worn in Paris. They are so- called because they extend no farther than the tip of the nose. In contrast are veils that reach far below the chin, but this shape is chiefly seen in connection with wide brim bats. THERE IS AN ART IN IT. The art of putting on a veil neatly and in a becoming manner is too little studied. It really is an art and needs study. Most women fix on their veils in a haphazard fashion, which is productive of untidiness, to say nothing of the sacrifice of the becoming. A few rather long pins are very useful in the arrangement of a veil. It is a pity we cannot dispense with veils, but so long as fringes reign we must perforce resign ourselves to their pro- tectors. The very finest nets are chiefly worn, so fine as to be almost invisible. FOR LADY RANDOLPH. Whilst on the subject of foot coverings I omitted to say that I was shown a pair of shoes just made forLady I; Andolph Churohill. Nothing could be neater. The leather was of the finest glove kid, cut without the slightest embellishment. The laced part came well up on the instep, and the heel was broad and rather low. The shape of the prospective wearer's foot must be flatter than those of American women in general, and the size as represented by the shoe somewhat larger than ordinary among Americans. The whole work was done by band. Shoes that are harid-seivii keep their shape much longer than do machine made goods. About two guineas would be the price of the shoes I have described. A MUSICAL NOTION. Have my musical readers ever tried the effect produced by placing a newspaper lightly on the wires of a grand piano P A musical acquaintance of mine suggested the idea to me, and I pass it on. Among simple pretty ballads she sang were "Why should we say Good-bye," by Edith Cooke, and Fairies," by "Dolores." IDEAS FOR CHRISTMAS. The rapidly-shortening evenings leave us considerably more time for needlework; and against Christmas those who take time by the forelock and are in the habit of making their intended gifts instead of purchasing them out-of-hand are already on the look-out for novelties. To such readers' attention I commend the monster cosies usefully designed to keep hot the water provided for the matutinal tub, and particularly valuable when the sleeper is not prompt to respond to the call, as exemplified in the language of the immortal Watts :— 'Tis the voice of the sluggard; I heard him complain, You have woke me too s-on, I mustslumber again; As the door on its hinges, So ho on his bed, Turns his sides and his shoulders, And his heavy head." Meanwhile the water cools, more particu- larly when Jack Frost is abroad. It is assumed that the water is left in the can, and over this the cosy is lifted. It is made of scouring flannel, and lined with sateen in contrasting colour. Some large flower embroidered in outline or an applique design is worked [on either side. The bolder the effect the better, as fine work would be thrown away. Silk or worsted is carried round the edges, and a large bow of ribbon at the top serves to conceal a curtain ring covered wool. This is sewn firmly on, and serves as a handle to the cosy. Art serge, oosting Is. 4d. per yard, may be used in place of scouring flannel. But the heavier the substance the better, as likely to retain heat longer. Of course, it goes without saying that two or three sheets of wadding are required batvreen the lining and the exterior oover,

To Correspondents.


An Electrical Fly-catcher.


|That Girl Rilly. -0

Modesty of Great Workers.