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> FEMININE FANCIES, FOIBLES, AND FASHWNS, BY MURIEL"ggs- :ALL RIGHTS RESERVEZ^ r. DRESSES FOR MUDDY WEATHEK. The need of a dress better suited to the JjHMlition of our streets and the country roads han is the slightly trained fashionable skirt 18 greatly felt. The gored skirt that fits the cody so closely is not so easily raised as its Inore voluminous predecessor, to say nothing f the added length. Mrs. Charles Hancock's »4tely invented semi-long promenade dress is really a most convenient style for women walk much and do not car^ to be Jumpered by apparel unsuited to the exercise .11, muddy weather, at the same time disliking ^pything that savours of eccentricity. Sensi- tive women, who, as a rule, entertain a strong tjojeotion to look particular, may wear the wess I mention and escape undesired notice and comment as being pioneers of a new Costume. A well-known dressmaker will supply a pattern of the convenient dress I advocate, made just a trifle longer than that exhibited a8 a model by the Dress Keform Society. 1 am oonvinced that no one would suspect that the garment had any claim to originality. WELL, SCARCELY IN ENGLAND. I believe that the Boston ladies have deter- mined to wear this winter a special make of Jesses, whioh freely expose the nether limbs, Wad in gaiters and very short petticoats. Young women do not shrink, it seems, from this projected display. Their elders will dis- creetly wear a oloak somewhat long—that is, by comparison, but reaching to the ankle Dlify. I expect that few Englishwomen will ttkalte any special provision against draggled though such condition is dirty and disgusting, to say nothing of its being *oinous to the dress so bedraggled, and often dangerous to health also. DRESS LIFTERS. I have heard of several new inventions for lifting skirts of ordinary length out of the Jnud, all more or less effective or ineffec- tive, and equally more or less difficult of satisfactory adjustment. A special dress for flftuddy weather is not the proud possession of man, women, though in muddy England. and among women whom foreigners justly consider an athletic raoe, delighting in an exercise that so many of their own country- women dislike or deem themselves incapable of, one might naturally suppose a garb that left the lower limbs free and the •tends unembarrassed, or, rather, at liberty to «old an umbrella if needed, would be an essen- tial of every woman's wardrobe. NEW BAIN-CLOAKS. Excellent is that particular make of rain- oloaks fashioned in two parts and resembling n all-round walking skirt, with separate iaoket of the reefer type. Nothing could be ^ore sensible as an outfit for a soaking day. "rovided the petticoats ^are out of the rain and a pair of stout bootys are present, with a Waterproof hat, the dress is complete, and an Jjnabrella can very well be dispensed with, but if the weather is doubtful only and the Waterproof is carried on the arm, this make of oloali is far less portable and convenient than are several others i its kind, less cum- bersome, and more easily slipped on when a 8^dden downpour fulfil# the anticipation rain. Should, however, the petticoats unduly long, the benefit derived «rom a waterproof is greatly minimised, whould trained dresses become general, as Qdioated by gored skirts and the Princess yle now striving for favour, a special drcao 0r walking must, I think, be devised pro The Beryl dress-lifter is as good as any, I think. The inoonvenience of having he hand permanently oobSpied in holding up One's dress certainly is very great. To raise the dress, it is only necessary to push up the guard which acts on a spring with slight pressure this guard is forced upward, and it is as easily depressed when the skirt resumes its position. Distinct from the dress, a strap round the waist is needed to secure the lifter, out if fixed when the g<gwn is made, the addi- tional thickness caused* bjf the Ifend will be •voided, CHARMING AND UsEtot. It is useless to write about"ffrsetty things out-of-door wear, so I wfi$describe a jyjarmigg gown made for a quiet dinner party. -|he material was blaok foulard, printed with Ileta6bed bouquets of lilac flowers, shading rOIn light to dark. The silk was out about a foot shorter than the foundation skirt, which was turned up with white satin, and met the cOrtailed breadth of silk under a narrow but Jfery full ruche of foulard, the ruche being 'rayed out on either side. Below was an in- Ikertlon of black lace, 3in. wide, the pattern of the lace being thrown into relief hy the white satin foundation. A second ruche, corresponding to that described above, divided the insertion from a narrow black lace flounce measuring Perhaps 5in. in depth, and trimmed close to *he edge with two rows of extremely narrow "lack ribbon velvet. 'J he bodice was out V shape. the opening being filled in with lilac ^lousseline de soie. The elbow sleeves were fitnmed to correspond with the skirt. Long Sloves of paie lilac-colour kid, studded with let on the back, were worn, and satin shoes to match completed a very elegant, but, at he same time, very useful gown. This style 18 capable of many variations as regards Colour. RESENT MODES MUST BE MADE IN SUB- STANTIAL MATERIAL. Some Amerioan ladies, who came direct from Paris, showed me several beautiful oos- Hoies made in that city. The two I admired tnost, perhaps, were of rich brocade of that Particular quality and richness oar great grandmothers admiringly described as hand- IJOIne enough to stand alone." The black brocade, gored in the new way, was totally devoid of trimming on the skirt. The cor- *aRe, very tight fitting, was trimmed with a ittle fine jet. So, too, were the black gloves to be Worn with the dress. The hat, en suite, Was of fine black ohip, trimmed simply with eXquisite ostrich plumes of the peculiar blue that goes so admirably with blaok. The other dress was of rich fawn colour silk, brocaded ^ith straggling pattern in brown. A 5in. bounce was set on very full, ai.d edged With two rows of narrow brown velvet. •Ihe corsage was shirred to form a short square yoke. Narrow puffs of brown velvet divided the shirred material-a complement Of three. rhe corsage was not made with a deep basque in either case. The lighter silk J^as further trimmed with a 3in. wide piece of "rown ribbon velvet, whioh, starting from under a smart bow in the centre of the back where the \Yaist ends, was carried under the right arm and brought up high on the chest, ending Under a corresponding bow. The rustling of the silk when moved was very marked, making the admired frou frou," to produce which 811k petticoats were introduced, partially suc- ceeding only, because the silk was not of the requisite quality. Soft, limp fabrics 0OIbniend themselves to me, but present blodes are beat, carried out in stuffs of Pouter substacMMh Gored skirts, for instance, only ppasiib&t when the material under reatoieut i&ceattfc substantial, j 7 A NEW IDEA IN SKIRT TRIMMING. A new way of trimming the bottom of an all-round skirt is to put a band of ribbon velvet. a little above the edge, adding over and under some of the imitation feather trimming, which costs Is. lid. the yard. The close resemblance this trimming bears to narrow feather bordering makes the substitute almost equal to the genuine article. Both kinds are dyed in colours of every shade, r and may be had in blaok and white, of course. NOTHING CAN SURPASS SWEET LAVENDER. Lovers of the lavender-scented house-linen, which is such a deiightful soporific as one lays a tired head on the pillow at night, may be glad to hear that the flowers, stripped from the parent stem and dried ready for use, are sold in Uovent Garden Market for Is. a packet. The supply from Micham has been less plentiful this year in consequence of the lack of sunshine, and also by reason of the severe winter, which killed many of the bushes. Nothing I like so well to perfume my drawers as natural lavender. The liquid scent is mixed with musk and other essences, which give out an odour not half so refreshing as the perfume that comes unadulterated from Mother Nature's still. A NOVEL LEMON-SQUEEZER. Lemons are so much used in drinks and in culinary and other preparations that I regret the information that the new fruit is not up to the usual standard, and will be expensive in consequence. So it behoves us to make the best of those we buy. There are some wonderfully handsome lemon-squeezers devised for use in the brewing of punch and other drinks to be concocted before visitors. And there is the homely but useful wood article, but that cannot be brought even to the ordinary table when a lemon squash is wanted. Very simple, and as inexpensive as simple, is a glass lemon-squeezer I have seen. It is entirely effective in getting easily all the juice from the fruit and without danger of pips flying about or the juice squirting over one's self or one's neighbours. The cost of the article is 2d, It is shaped like the half of a large fir cone. The surface is corrugated or sharply ridged at spaced distances. The lower edge turns out- ward and upward, forming a channel to catch the juice, which, by means of small holes drilled in this channel, is conveyed into the tumbler, upon which the lemon-squeezer rests. The lemon is cut in half, and the glass cone is forced gently into it; then the fruit is worked by band round and round, keeping the tumbler steady. In a very few seconds the whole of the pulp and juice will be cleared, and, devoid of pips, the liquid will be found at the bottom of the glass. As I have not seen this useful contrivance until lately, I fancy it may be new to my readers also. WORK FOR DARKER DAYS. Among pretty trifles sold in the fancy shops are some large satin ribbon rosettes in every colour, They cost lOd. each, and are devised for the purpose of keeping chair- baoks in position. Anyone who wishes to copy the idea, buying a rosette for a pattern, could make half a dozen at a time for much less than 5s., the regulation price. With the approach-the near approach of darker days, the addition of a little more colour in our rooms is desirable. Everything that tends to give even the appearance of bright- ness should be cultivated, as the mental barometer is very frequently influenced by surroundings, just as the mercury in the baro- meter proper rises and falls in accordance with atmospheric conditions. FLAVOUR YOUR VINEGAR. Few housewives, however excellent, think to prepare special vinegar for special pur- poses, yet a dish of salad mixed with tarragon vinegar is far superior to that which is treated with vinegar pure and simple. Garlic vinegar is desirable as a flavouring wnen tne pungent navour uf the clove is not objected to. Tarragon leaves are at their best in July, and should be gathered on a dry day. Let the leaves dry, then pack in a large pickle jar, and fill with good white wine vinegar. The longer the leaves steep in moderation the better. During the process the jar must be well stoppered. Strain finally, and bottle for use. Some people add a few peppercorns and a sprig or two of lemon, thyme, and eight or ten cloves to the brew. Garlic vinegar is prepared thus:—Take the skins from a garlic root; separate the cloves and put them in a jar in the proportion of loz. of garlic to a quart of vinegar cork well and seal. In a month's time strain into small bottles. The market gardener will supply tar- ragon leaves when not to be had in the home garden. Celery seeds and horseradish can be added to impart other flavouring. It is a well-known fact that the leaves of the ornamental shrub known as syringa will pro- duce a flavour so exactly like cucumber that it is not to be distinguished therefrom. The leaves should be steeped in spirit, and the essence can be used for claret and other cup" when cucumbers are nor in season. Salads with warm meats are seldom served in this country, but in France they are frequently sent up with hot viands, and those who have not compared the two cannot imagine what a difference there is in apparently the identical salad flavoured with different sorts of vinegar. MUSHROOM KETCHUP. Mushrooms are in season and very plenti- ful, and mushroom ketchup is an incompar- able flavouring for many dishes. It is so easily made that no housekeeper's cupboard should be without it. Put a layer of mushrooms into an earthenware dish, sprinkle a little salt over them, put in another layer and more salt thus alternately until all are dealt with. Let the mass remain several days, then mash fine, and to each quart put a tablespoonful of vinegar, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, one quarter of a teaspoonful of cloves, turn all into a stone jar, strain it in a pot of boiling water; boil two hours; then strain without squeezing the mass; boil the liquid for another hour; skim well and let it stand to settle then pour very carefully through tanning cloth or a fine hair sieve; bottle, and seal. Jt is advisable to keep in small bottles. INVALID BROTH. A nice sweet broth for an invalid is made according to the recipe given :—Boil some rice or tapioca in a little water; beat up an egg in half a pint of milk, in which an ounce of butter has been dissolved; sweeten, and add to the rice broth. A few tomatoes well boiled, and some vegetable marrow mashed thoroughly may be added to the broth. Sippets of toasted bread may be added to the broth. FOR VEGETARIANS AND OTHERS. Another savoury dish, which is from a vegetarian's recipe, is prepared thus Slice a large Spanish onion thinly, and slew in suffi- cient salted water to keep from burning; when nearly cooked add button mushrooms properly oleaned; let these stew until cooked, but not broken. Season and add butter thioken with a little flower, and serve with sippets of toast. OLIVE OIL FOB THE FACE. I note that a writer in the British 2ifedical Journal advises women not to use soap to their faces, but to apply a little best olive oil instead. I have tried the effect, using a small piece of fine linen as a medium, and after it a silk handkerchief. The skin is nourished by the application, and it is said that prema- ture wrinkles are prevented, but of this I cannot be sure. Many soaps dry the skin and render it unpleasantly rough. IF You FOLLOW SUIT YOU MUST TAKE THE CONSEQUENCE. Apropos to skin beautifiers, I'am acquainted with a lady so careful of her looks that thrt-e nights a week she puts on a face mask. It is soft and very flexible, so is not uncomfort- able to wear, even though strapped in posi- tion. The price is moderate, and the mask is said to be more effective than any cosmetic known. I may add, however, that the wear- ing of a facemask to preserve her beauty, but in opposition to her husband's wish, de- termined] one of the Roman emperors to seek a divorce from his wife. This informa- tion is given to all whom it may concern. In conclusion, history also sayeth that the coveted separation was granted, the lady evidently valuing her mask above the husband, over and above the imperial dignity bestowed on her by him.

Footlight Flashes.

RUSKIN'S ENGINEERING ABILITIES.

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A DEATH IN THE DESERT.

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