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FEMININE FANCIES, FOIBLES.…

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FEMININE FANCIES, FOIBLES. AND FASHIONS. BY "MURIEL" (ALL RIGHTS RESER rED. Tasteful Gow; se the bright, genial weather or the past fortnight continues a little longer, the winter ^11 be agreeably shortened, and we may yet have a chance of wearing some of those farming thin gowns provided for the Ournnier, the severity of which, however, pre- clnded the possibility of our displaying. Such dress I saw in Regent-street to-day—the allirt of black China silk printed all over with Purple violets and green leaves. It was made *0 fit the wearer's slim figure like a sheath, fulness being confined to the centre f the back. The bodice was fashioned tri rather uncommon manner. It was Perfectly tight fitting, and the basque, short and round, formed a close line round the hips, with no unnecessary fulness ^hatever. The very high leg-o'-mutton Jleeves were of pale mauve Surah silk so, the simulated under-bodice and the "igh, straight collar, deep enough to turn Over to the depth of an inch, but cut away for several inohea in front, leaving only a band of Ordinary width. The upper half of the cor- Uge, being of mauve silk, showed below the and at the arm-holes, the printed silk being arranged to resemble the bib of a pinafore, but fitting quite tight and fastened down the front with small glittering jet buttons. The sleeves were cut with one seam Only, on the plan of the leg-o'-mutton lleeve of long ago, and similarly fitted to the lower arm, coming quite to the Twt and buttoned there with five tiny sillc- covered buttons. The accompanying black crinoline bat was trimmed with violets and their foliage, and tied with narrow velvet strings. The gloves were a pale tan shade, shoes a deep reddish tan, and stockings a lighter shade of same colour. Another tasteful gown was of pale green foulard printed with white flowers a four-inch rib- bon band of darker green round the bottom of the skirt and ou the lower edge of the ribbon was run a very narrow white braid. Ille skirt was rather more fully draped than ordinary, and caught up on the left side 10 cluster of gathers. A V shape piece of green tilk edged white was inserted gore- wise in the waist, the elongated point reach- ing to the group of gathers aforesaid. The was folded, and had a green collar with White edging. The high sleeves were trimmed to. correspond. A dark fawn straw hat, trimmed with mignonette, completed a pretty and stylish toilet. *.ft S'eaves Stïl H gh. Voluminous sleeves in thin materials, such as foulard, are cut very high, but do not stand up aggressively unless padded and Otiffened, and this is not customary. Cha-rnrng for Evening W ar. A most charming model for evening wear was made with under-akirt of glossy satin, veiled Kussian net, covered with shining opaque spots the size of a shilling. The skirt fell perfecily straight from the waist to the feet, and reaching some distance round the bottom was a full and rather wide foot- ruche made of narrow liussian net woven With silk at either edge, such, in fact, as is so largely used for neck ruffles. Before box- pleating the net, a narrow silver braid was run on the edge and in the centre of every figuring the skirt net a glittering silver bead was sewn. The bodice was corres- pondingly trimmed, # « Popular Russian Net. -Russian net is glossy and rather wide, jQeshed. Usually it is figured with spots *arge or small, but flowers and geometrical designs are also used to pattern it. It is Inite the most popular kind of black net, and will be largely used to make overskirts for coloured silk foundations. I saw a lovely ball gownwbicb had an under skirt of very pale blue lilk beneath black Russian net covered with spots the size of a sixpence. Several rows of narrow blue ribbon were run on the hem. The bodice, of blue silk, was entirely covered with net, and a long trail of wild blue oonvolvolus Was carried from the right shoulder across the front of the corsage, thonce to the bottom of the skirt in an oblique direction. Very long pale blue kid gloves, stitched with black, would be worn. Nor must I omit to mention the dainty little head and neck ornaments supplied with the gloves, the latter formed of two bands of pale blue velvet lightly twisted together, and resting on them was a trail of convolvolua. A tiny diadem of blue velvet, with a few of the same pretty Wild flowers in connection, and the dress was obarmir.gly complete. Russian Net Vei's. "eils of Russian net have almost auper- Redect others. The mesh of the veil net is, of course, much smaller than that of the net used for dresses. It is glossy and firm, but exceedingly clean, which is a great desidera- tum always. OwV Feathers for Neck Trinming. Owls' feathers are being made into the prettiest of neck ruffles from 12s. 6d. upwards, and there are muffs to match. The creamy hue of the feathers is unusually suited to People who have dark, pale akina and dusky hair. jI. Feather Will Rival Fur. Feather trimmings will rival fur during the winter. Feather bands for edging opera cloaks, dresses, and so on are dyed in a variety of colours, and cost from 7s. Gd. the yard upwards. The Kew Cioaks. The new "Pilgrim cloaks I described last Week are sure to be very general. They com- pletely envelope the figure, and there is no special aperture for the hands or arms. There is generally a particular fashion of Wearing certain articles of dress. Ladies used to thrust their thumbs into the pockets of their out-of-door jackets, and when the circular fur-lined cloak appeared a dozen or more years ago it was the fashion to enwrap oneself therein by folding arm over arm, small bags for the hands being fixed in the fronts of the circular for the convenience of the wearer when following the fashion. Woollen brocades are not used now. The Pilgrim cloak is made of cashmere any colour, lined some bright-hued silk. Occasionally a hood is seen at the back. Oftener, however, there is only a small velvet yoke. Handsome silver clasps to fasten at.the Heck are a charming addition. it.* Irish Poplin Is Still My Favourite. Autumn is the time of the year when my thoughts invariably turn to Irish poplin- that most excellent and beautiful material, Which for durability will outlast two or three ilk gowns. My olive green poplin dress I have made quite a hack of, for I am growing a little tired of the fashion in which it is made; but to give me an excuse for buying another dress it deolines absolutely, no matter how ill I may use it. Some of the dyes are exquisite, and the material lends itself well to embellishment with the handsome beaded passementerie that is now worn. A poplin gown in the new turquoise blue, ornamented with jet passementrie studded with imitation turquoises, was one of the most superb dinner dresses I ever saw. There is more substanoe in poplin than in silk, and it is, therefore, better suited to the heavy beadembroideries whioh fashion favours. I think when I have a decent excuse for the purchase of having a cinnamon colour Irish poplin, having broken the Tenth Com- mandment over one of that colour purchased by a friend. My favourite makers have a lovely variety of poplins in all the new shades, including bark. A single dress is sent carriage al paid to any part of the United Kingdom. « u Tai!or-made Gowns have Decided Advantages. A tailor-made dress stands alone for neat- ness and durability, and nowadays every lady who goes about much possesses a gown of this class. If it be perfect as regards fit, the wearer can hold her own among the most handsomely-dressed women, for a good tailor- built gown is outre nowhere except when full evening dress is required. In the spring of last year I fear that some of my readers were disappointed by reason of my giving the ad- dress of my own tailor, whom I did not know had decided not to undertake work for new cus- tomers. In order not to disappoint again, 1 have bad a gown made by another tailor, and I have much pleasure in recommending his work. The fit and style are exceptionally good, and the price very moderate. A perfect- fitting dress of good material costs four and a half guineas. Mr. Coale has just set up business, and superintends all orders himself, he having mastered all the rudiments of his trade, in tailors' phraseology, "on the board," which means ascent from the lowest rung of the sartorial ladder. Mr. Coale prefers to fit the dress or jacket on the figure. When this is impossible by reason of distance he will, on, receipt of a well-cut bodice pattern, do his utmost for his customer. If there be no trustworthy bodice at hand the local tailor would, doubtless, take measurements for a consideration. The dressmaker who hangs skirts for Mr. Coale is very clever. I am exigent as regards the fall of my skirts, for no dress can look well if it does not hang well, and I am much pleased with my skirt. Braiding, the new speciality for jackets and dresses, is very carefully executed. Every stitch is done by hand and in the most oareful manner, H -,iid Work Before M chine, Machine braiding is very unsatisfactory. A stitch gives way, the braid gets dragged, and the garment never looks 80 well again. Now that braiding is becoming general I will impress on my readers the necessity of paying for hand work. It is expensive but lasting, and few things are so provoking as to see a braided jacket or dress with the pattern destroyed by constant repairs, for braid always stretches when it catches, and the superfluous length is difficult to deal with. If any reader wishes to know what my gown is like, the description is very j much at their service. Dull sage green cloth-my favourite colour-vest of white cloth, covered with a handsome design worked in sage green narrow braid. In the top of the sleeve is inserted an elongated half diamond of white cloth, covered with the same pattern worked with similar braid. Many tailors, though they fit well, seem at fault to know what style best sets off a parti- cular figure. I was glad to follow a suggestion made, and when carried out I had every reason to be glad I gave in to what proved superior insight. Fruit Bonnets. Fruit bonnets are popular, but they have a hard effect, and I cannot say that I admire them. Mountain-ash berries, which resemble tiny melons in a yellow red colour, look well in bunches on dark velvet bonnets, but cherries, strawberries, grapes, apricots, peas, &o., do not oommend themselves to my taste. Indoor Gaines. The season for out-of-door games is draw- ing to a close, but we look forward to another year. The new way of playing the old- fashioned game of "stoolball" is likely to be popular, 1 think. It resembles cricket, to which so many of our sex are devoted, but I think exercise and recreation of less masculine character will be more to the taste of a majority of women. Mr. 11. W. Hackwood, of Matlock, Bath, Derbyshire, will on tlpplication forward rules for cr targette," which is the modified form of cricket I allude to. 4 For Handy Persons. There are any number of charming ways of making ornamental covers for magazines, Bradshaw and ABU timetables, tele- gram cases, and music folios. Most are fashioned of oardboard covered with art áerge, and then embroidered with silk in a charming manner, the initials or words descriptive of contents being worked either in the centre or across one of the corners of the cover. It is not easy to the inexperienced to carry out the patterns and lovely colour-contrasts which go to produce the charming effects I wish to describe. I have little time for fancy work and am not au fait at depicting it in writing, but, novice as I am, I have during a short respite from penmanship made a very smart little cover for a Whitalier's Almanac." I cannot embroider flowers, so I bought a ball of fine silver braid and one of Briggs's patterns and worked a mediaeval design on a ground of art blue. I procured some handsomely-shaped ornamental letters, with which I wrought the title of the book. I think other women who cannot embroider in silk will find braiding in metallic or flilh- braids quite within the com- pass of their ability. lit No More Daggers. I am glad to hear of a new wire bonnet grip, which will secure the headgear firmly, and so, I trust, banish those aggressive and dan- gerous daggers with which my sisters are accustomed to pin their hats and bonnets on. I have seen some very ugly scars produced by the said bonnet pin, and am always glad to avoid its propinquity. » And They Call This "Charity," A short time since I paid a hurried visit to R-, not an aristocratic watering-plaoe. but near London, and very charming, spite of its Cockney reputation. There I met a lady who, working under a society, took upon herself the management and the formation of homes of rest for working men, giving her services gratis in lieu of the financial assis- tance it is not in her power to bestow. Much good work has been done, but I confess I was much surprised that no provision had been made to meet a case such as I feel bound to make known. A man recovering from severe Ulness was sent to the home bv some benevo- lent person, all preliminaries being arranged beforehand, but he arrived in such a state of destitution as regards olothing that the matron and lady superintendent decided that he could not possibly remain, the other in- mates being neatly dressed, so the unfortunate creature, more sorely in need, it seemed, than any of his fellows, was rejected, because, forsooth, he bad nothing, so to speak, to clothe his nakedness It was too late to help when I heard the decision had been carried out, or I would have gone begging on the man's behalf, trusting the requirements of decency might be satisfied without that last alternative. Could the poor fellow's plight have been so dire when the railway officials gave him passage? My heart bled for him —recovering from illness suffered in some horrible slum, and probably looking forward to convalescence by the sea, in pure air, with good food, companionship, and wholesome surroundings. The unfor- tunate Lazarus arrived, was condemned, and speedily returned to the place whence he came. The credit of the home must not be risked by admitting so ragged a robin. 0 Charity, what abuses are com- mitted in thy name! I dare not venture to imagine what bitter thoughts, what pangs of disappointment and despair were seething and raging in that poor fellow's heart. Will someone—I have no near masculine relatives of my own—send a few 11 cast-offs to the Home of liest, that such painful necessity—if necessity it were-may never occur again. French Lobster. I do not recommend the following dish, but I have been asked to give a reoipe for French lobster, and here it is:-One good-sized fish, four tablespoonfuls of white stock, two of cream, a blade of mace, cayenne to taste, and bread crumbs. JJemove the flesh of the lobster from its shell, breaking the latter as little as possible; divide the lobster meat into neat pieces; put stook and cream and seasoning into a lined stewpan; add the lobster, and simmer slowly for few minutes. Wash the I¡, shell, put the meat in it cover with bread crumbs; put bits of butter over and brown before the fire. Celery Patties. Stew as much celery in milk as will be wanted chop it finely add pepper and salt; fill patty pans therewith; cover with bread crumbs; set a piece of butter on the top of each patty, then brown, and serve very hot. To Correspondents "M. I have not been able to go out, but if not otherwise nhtailnb!(', I believe Mrs. Haweis herself would give information. Her address is Cheyne Walk, Chelsea. Mrs. Haweis is the wife of the Vicar of St. James's, Westmoreland-street, Marylebone. You do not worry me, thank you. I am pleased to assist my readers. I will inquire of my st-it ioner when I can go out. "EH."—Address—267, Regent-street, London, N.W., for patterns and price list. Tho suggestion of making shaped dress tritiimings" was my own. The patterns you buy are in straight lengths only but if you are an ndrpt at crochet, slipped trim- mings could be designed, I believe, without diffi- culty.

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