The London Welshman

IN LOVELY WALES. I 1: IX.-THE VALE OF TOWY. Who can describe, in mere prose, that home and inspiration of poets and patriots, the Vale of Towy ? Who, at least in the limits of a newspaper article, will dare attempt to describe how— Through the long vale to the sea, the full-fed, devious Towy Turns and returns on itself, like the coils of a silvery snake ?" The writer has known the Vale from his youth, and has feasted his eyes on its beauties time CAERCENNIN CASTLE. (Reproduced from a Steel Engraving drawn by GASTINEAU.) ^nd again, but he can only say with John Dyer, Its son and poet,- Ever charming, ever new When will the landscape tire the view? The fountain's fall, the river's flow, The woody valleys, warm and low The windy summit, wild and high Roughly rushing in the sky The pleasant seat and ruined tower, The naked rock and shady bower; The town and village, dome and farm, Each gives to each a double charm, As pearls upon an Ethiop's arm." It is a region unfrequented by the blatant tourist, unspoilt by the Birmingham holiday- maker. And yet it is as full of natural charm and historic associations as any in Wales. Far UP in the "blainau Towy" the scenery is as stern and wild as any in this island. Who that has once seen it can forget the rugged defile through which the Towy tumbles by the cave of Twm Sion Catti ? As we follow the clear stream in its winding course, what memories rise of Cymru Fu. There, on the left, a mile or so above Llandovery, we see the Church of Llanfair-ar-y-bryn, where rest the remains of Pantycelyn, the sweet singer of Wales. In the little grey Irish-locking town may still be seen some remnants-alas, that vandal hands should have so recently made them so few !—of the house of Vicar Pritchard. Here also one may see the fine fabric of the College, which is at once a monument to the patriotism and Welsh- manship of the founder, and a reproach to the Bishops of St. Asaph and St. David, who de- prived it to a large extent of its Welsh character. Here also Brutus lived and worked here William Rees set up his press and issued his Welsh books and periodicals fifty years ago. Lower down, overlooking the Vale at Llanwrda, stands Hafod, the home of David Jones o Gaio, while higher up-though almost in sight of the Towy —Kilsby and Thomas Lewis (" Wrth gofio'i ruddfanau") were born. On the other side stands Y Lasallt, the birthplace of Dr. Morgan Owen, the Bishop of Llandaff, and the friend of Archbishop Laud and Vicar Pritchard. Next to Llanwrda comes Llansadwrn, the home of Nancy Jones, commonly known as of Crug-y-bar -the chapel where she worshipped. Hidden from the main road by towering trees stands Abermarlais-not indeed the palace of Gruffydd ap Niclas and Rhys ap Thomas-but standing near the same spot and built a century ago by Admiral Sir Thomas Foley, one of Nelson's heroes of the Nile and Copenhagen. On the other side one sees the majestic Van, with its romantic lakes, and its still more romantic legends the stately triple peaks of Trichrug and the British fortress of Garn Goch. Lower down we see the white houses of Llandilo, nestling cosily in its beautiful eminence, while behind and above the town, like a glorious dark crown, stand the magnificent oak trees that proclaim the splen- dours of the Royal Park of Dynevor. And what Welshman can stand at the ruins of the ancient castle without feeling his blood run more hotly and rapidly in spite of the prosaic modern mansion" that desecrates the scene ? Here is what is left of the mighty fortress of Roderick the Great, of Rhys ap Tewdwr, of the Lord Rhys, of Rhys ap Thomas. Here stands what was once the centre of South Welsh Nationalism. What hopes and fears, what ambitions and failures, what storm and stress, what feastings and joustings, could not these ivy-clad ruins speak of, had they but the gift of tongue It was to this castle that Howell the Good brought