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HINTS UPON GARDENING.

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HINTS UPON GARDENING. FLOWER GARDEN.-Remove decayed flower stems, and keep the borders clear of weeds, so as to prolong the season as much as possible. Plant out pinks and carnations, and rooted cuttings of herbaceous plants. The beds of seedlings must be looked over and thinned, and the thinnings planted in fresh pots of newly-dug and firmly-trodden ground. This is the season for planting bulbs. The first lot of hyacinths and tulips should at once be got into pots, and plunged in coal- ashes or coarse sand, so as to quite bury them, and keep them only moderately moist, and as much as pos- sible free from the action of the atmosphere, so as to induce a root action before the foliage is produced. Hyacinths may also be planted in beds and borders, but tulips should not be put into the open ground till next month. A very effective way of using hyacinths is to put them in patches of seven-one in the middle and six round it, every separate patch to be of a different colour. Cuttings of bedding plants may still be taken freely, but there should be no delay, or they may not be well rooted before cold weather sets in. This month and next are the best times for striking calceolarias. Take off the young shoots from near the bottom of the stool, aud put them pretty close together in 5-inch pots, well drained, and filled up to near the rim with a mixture of peat, loam, and sasd, equal parts, and half an inoh of pare sand on the surface. China roses may also be struck now ia pots in the greenhouse, and they do safest under hand. glasses. A second bloom, to last till Christmas, may be obtained from fuchsias, by cutting in the young wood, and giving the plants a little heat to start them afresh. Geraniums struck early in the summer will now be coming into bloom, to keep the greenhouse gay all the winter. Annuals, to bloom early next season, should be sown at once on hard ground, in a dry position; if elevated above the general level, all the better. The following are tie best leading sorts to sow now, to be transplanted in March, to bloom in clumps or masses, when the bloom will be much finer as well as earlier than from spring- sown seeds Calliopsis, Clarkia, Collinsia, Convolvulus minor, Godetia, Eseholtzia, Hibiscus, Iberis Kermesina, Jacobea, Larkspur, Lapinus, Nemophita, Nolana, Poppy (dwarf French), Schizanthua (dwarf), Silene rubella and armeria, Yiscaria octilata, Venus's Looking-glass.— Chrysanthemums to be got in order for blooming with. out delay, to be tied in fts required, and to have plenty of water, varied once a week or so with liquid manure. Cuttings of pompones put in now, and rooted quickly on a gentle dung-heat, will make nice little plants to bloom at Christmas in the house. They must not be stooped at all, and have a rich soil to grow in. Short cuttings should be talsen, so that there will be no necessity to use sticks to support them. Intermediate :) stocks to be potted in thumbs siag y, ancl kept shaded till they make fresh roots. Sow Queens, Intermediates, and Brornptona; the soil to be a sound turfy loam, without dun??; manure will make them too sappy to stand the winter well, but a poor. 9011 will be likely to cause a large proportion of single flowers. Pansies to be propagated now m quantity for planting out in October, and to pot for early blooming in pits in spring. Those lately struck to be planted out in beds of turfy loom, with a liberal admixture of sand and charred rubbish, but very little animal manurp. .BosM mav be budded on briars till the middle of October, but the earlier the better. Those entered in July have made good shoots, and should be looked over occasionally for the removal of wild buds below the work. Roses layered now, and left undisturbed till April next, will then be found well rooted, and may be taken up and potted for bloom the following autumn. Roses lately budded to have the ties loosened. Where buds have failed, others may be in- serted either on the stems of young stocks or on suit- able shoots lower down than those previously worked. Auriculas may be increased now from offsets; if rooted, all the better; if not rooted, put them round the sides of pots, and they will soon strike. Auriculas not yet repotted must be attended to without delay, to ensure new roots before the temperature declines. --Border plants of questionable hardiness to be taken up at the end of the month and potted, or at least one or two of a kma to propagate from, and prevent entire loss.—Carnations and piootees, from layers, to be potted off as soon as well rooted, and cuttings taken at once of all good seedling Dianthua in the borders. Where the propagation of carnations has been de. layed, they may be increased by cuttings under bell. glasses, but when raised 80 late they must not be expected to bloom next season.—Hollyhocks to be propagated at once. The shoots that rise at the base of the flower-stem are to be put in as cuttings round the sides of pots. KITCHEN GARDEN AND FRAME GROUND.—The winter stock sown last month will now be coming for- ward for planting out. Where onions have been cleared off is generally the best place for cabbages for spring use, because the ground, having been well manured for the onions, is in good heart, and yet so far relieved of manure by the onions, that there will be no fear of a rank growth, such as will cause the plants to suffer from frost. Plant out as spaces become vacant, first digging deep, and leaving the surface rough. The planting, however, must be firm, and damp weather should be chosen for it. It is too late now to sow any more winter greens or onions; and if the stock is short, it will be better to get a supply of plants than waste time and patience in sowing. Thin winter spinach to six inches from plant to plant; thin the rows of lettuce that are to stand the winter, but not severely, be- cause in the event of severe frosts the plants protect each other, if somewhat close together; on the same principle, broccoli and cauliflowers left to risk it in the open ground should not be more than fif- teen inches apart each, and the ground for them should not at this season be very rich, or they may suffer in severe weather. We generally plant the spring broccoli without manure, and in the spring, as soon as they commence their new growth, give them regular waterings with house sewage, and so secure fine heads; cabbages we treat the same, so as to avoid the necessity of manure in the autumn, which renders them tender in exposed situations. Earth-up celery, as the rows require it in dry weather, but if not well grown, give plenty of liquid manure, and postpone the earthing-up till the plants have made good substance. This is the best time to form new beds of horseradish, the crowns to be planted 15 inches deep, and six inches apart, in very rich and well- trenched soil. Continue to sow saladings, and gather seeds as fast as they ripen. Potatoes to be taken up as the tops wither; carrots and beetroot may remain till the frost cuts off the foliage, and no longer, but parsnips may be left in the ground, trenched out as wanted for use, unless the ground is required, in which case store them in sand. Celery to be earthed-up only when it has grown to its full size. A fortnight is long enough to blanch it, and it grows but little after the earthing. Cucumbers are mostly beginning to fail now, or will be shortly, so those who want a succession of fruit must be on the alert. Sow or strike cuttings, the latter to be pre- ferred, and get ready to make up new beds. Old plants still in vigour must have the help of linings, and be covered with mats at night. Beware of mildew; if it once appears, remove the affected leaves, and give the plants a sprinkling of sulphur.—Gardener's Magazine.

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--...........----58 AGRICULTURE.