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HINTS UF01\[ GARDENING. KITCHEN GARDEN ANI> FPJAME GBOTTND. —Celery: The early crops to be earthed up as soon as the plants nave attained a good size. If the ground is dry, give a heavy soaking of water the day before intending to laotua them, and be caieful that the soil is nearly dry, or at most only moderately moist, when the moulding is to De done. Sow cabbage, green curled endive, ieuSiice, round spinach.—Winter greens to be got out 2ii plenty now, as peas, potatoes, apd other crops are taken oil. Coilaras. Brussels sprouts, and other quick growing1^ subjects that will mostly be used before Christmas, to be planted. m manured ground, but those to st-uad till next springj to furnish sprouts, not to be manured, as it renders them less able to with. stand severe frosts. Continue to plant broccoli, .Brussels sprouts, Scotch kale, and everything else of the kind from the seed-beds. FLOWER GARDEN. —T&Il-gMWing bedders need a little care now to protect them from high winds. A very effectual and expeditious method is to insert strong stakes, and run a few lengths of stout tarred string "amongst them, so as to form a support to the back and front ef every row. Small forked branches will serve, the same purpose where the plants are not snfficiently regular to be supported with string. Chrysanthemums in the open ground to be topped again, and the soil between them lightly pricked over with a small fork, and some quite rotten dung worked in. It will be found that they always root near the surface, and a dressing of dung will greatly help them, and save the labour of watering, Cinerarias coming up in seed-pans to be pricked out as soon as large enough to lift, and have separate thumb-pots, with light rich compost, and be put in a frame to grow on. By securing a vigorous growth from the first they Jjill be less troubled with fly, and make fine specimens. J-'hbae who have not sown seed yet must do so at once, or it will be too late. ■ GARDEN AND ORCHARD HOUSE trees Yf are in many cases covered with fly. „ 18 18 T^0^, checked, the trees will be barren next 4," v, e a strong infusion of tobacco, and at the !^eJf^«fS3-olvo,a2itil« glue; mix them together, "rnv* 4 in+-k ge and into the mixture dip tl MO too largo to be dipped must be lfcu o their sides and well syiingetL Those dipped must also be syringed the next day? GSIINHOYSE AND CONSERVATORY. — Fuchsias must bejsynnged twice a-day, and have modsrate shade, Fine plants m comparatively arnai1 w^ts will be greatly benefited with weak liquid manure every three or four days, ine stock must be propagated now in quantity for next year's supply. The smallest cuttings make the bbA plants, and there is no need to cut to a joint. A mild bottom-heat will hasten the formation of roots, but it is not needful, as if shut åp in a cold frame and kept shaded and regularly sprinkled they will be well rooted in a fortnight. It is a saving of time in the end to put all cuttings singly in pots at this time of the year, as they can be allowed to. fill the first pots with roots, so as to grow strong from their first start. In preparing pots for the cut- tings, use smallest sixties or thumbs; put a miiture of turf and old dung over the crocks, and fill up with half sand and half leaf, in which the cuttings will root as quickly as in sand alone at this season, and have something to live upon while filling the pots with roots. This is the best method for amateurs who are much away from home, as the single cuttings require less care than when dibbled into sand only in shallow pans. Hard-wooded plants requiring a shift this season must have it at once, or the time will go by for them to derive full benefit from the operation. The most im- portant matter of all is to secure good drainage, and to use the compost in as rough a state as possible con- sistent with the size and nature of the plant. When- ever the cultivator is in doubt about the best soil for any hard-wooded plant, he will be pretty safe in using half peat and half loam, both in a turfy and sweet condition, the more elastic the better. Pelargoniums, as they go out of bloom, to be cut down, and placed in a warm, sheltered, and rather shady place for a week, then to be put in the full sun, and kept rather dry at the root, with occasional sprinklings of the stems and leaves till they break, and then to be repotted back into small pots with sound lumpy turf to make their new roots in. STOVE-HOUSE AND FORCING.PIT. The general collection may be kept in perfect health now without fire-heat, by shutting up early, and sprinkling the floor of the house to cause a humid atmosphere. Do not shade over-much—generally from ten to three will be quite sufficient from this time, till shading is dispensed with altogether. Melons swelling fruit to have plenty of weak manure-water; those ripening their fruit to be kept tolerably dry, but if kept too dry will get infested with red spider, so endeavour to keep them in good health on the smallest possible supplies, and give plenty of air. Those that have borne good crops may be cut back, and set to work again with the help of linings to the beds. Keep these rather close after pruning in, and frequently sprinkle the sides of the frames and the surface of the bed, and give only moderate waterings at the root. Never allow water to fall on the main stems. If the plants cut in appear rather poor, let them break moderately, and then remove a portion of the soil from one side of the roots, and replace with fresh turfy loam. When the roots have run into the now stuff, do the same on the other side, and they will swell a second crop admirably. This is a first-rate season for melons, and if they have not a good flavour, and their proper colour, it is the fault of the grower only. Pines are generally in fine condition, and the produce is of first-rate quality this season. The bsttom-heat must be kept up, and there must be plenty of room between the plants for a free circulation of air. Maintain a moderate humidity among all advancing crops and young stock, and in giving air guard against drying winds and draughts by keeping one side close while the other is open. Where the fruit is swelling nicely, sprinkle the surface of the paths and soil frequently; but where the fruit is changing colour, discontinue the sprinkling, and give only just enough moisture to keep the plants in health. After cutting fruit, earth up the stools, and give a brisk bottom-heat and plenty of moisture. Beds in which pinss are plunged must be kept con- stantly moist, as the heat will not rise through any dry material. Vines now require air night and day from the time the grapes are gathered, unless they are in poor condition, and the wood very green. If so, shut up early, and in another eight or ten days the wood will be getting hard, and then there may be air on night and day. Grapes ripening not to be syringed, but to have a moderately moist atmosphere and plenty of air. Peaches and nectarines must be fully exposed to the atmosphere as soon as the fruit is gathered. Where the fruit is still hanging, give plenty of air, and every morning a light skiff with the syringe over the leaves. Stop the strongest shoots a few at a time, to swell the ripe buds. Wall-trees are generally loaded with superfluous wood, through tha prevalence of a. delusion in favour of plenty to choose from at the winter pruning. Choose now, and remove all that will not be wanted, and what is left will ripen properly.- Gardener's Magazine. Jr 1







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