The Aberystwith Observer

ABERYSTWYTH, j GUIDE TO THE TOWN AN'D I LOCALITY. Aberystwyth stands in the centre ot the coast of Bay, at the mouth of the Ystwyth. and the Hteiuol. It fcas been called the Qaeen of Welsh I ol. It tad ralled the Qtieen of Watering1 Places he Brighton ot Wales, the Biarritz ot' Wales, ami many other names, none of wli.c'r' are more appropriate than its own name, A lorystw.vtii." It i* sheltered by hitlstrom the north au: east witids, and is open to the sea. with warm water from the Gulf Stream and health-giving oreez 's. Wven iu winter the heaviest gales are empei-ed by warmth from the Atlantic. THE SEA. To visitors from the large towns and the country the sea is of course the chief attraction and possibly the sea and the shore at Aberystwyth will compare i av urn tile with those Dr a. y other watering place. Winn ziot distaroeo by storms the water is remark- ably clear, and frequently the bottom can be seen at adoptnotMomeya.rds. The beach is formed of shingle and sanci, the former predominating. It comprises blue stone, which is pleasing to the eye. There is a gradual slope, so that the water seldom r.-i«edes a hundred Jar-ds from high water mark, which is very different from what is found in some parts f the country, where the sea goes out a mile. There are many fine specimens of weeds on the reefs. THE PROMENADES. There are two promenades, the original extending from the pier northward 10 1 Iraiglais, a distance of UHlf-a-miie, and lormiuii a beautiful crescent, or ratu.-r two<re*o«t't*, whtht the new promenade, only re",wrl) opened by the tiarl ot Powis, runs irom the pier southward to the harbour, a distance of another ha f-j-ixjiie, with a co\!ti'latoon of the roadway for nearly ai.otht-r half-a-mileto the harbour breakwater. The extension parses >xl ir >nt of the beautiful build-- ings of tne Ui.iversitv O^ileaeuf Wales, probably the fin-st pudding JH IN le8, and uround the north and wP„t s\dos of the Castle nrounds. The wall at «<mie out- is twenty-eigi.t teet high. The stones were brought trom the Corporation quarry at Y-irad Aiming. SjiiO were described y the late Aldei mati Ht-t'ick, Plymouth—w»io?e firm h".ve constructed rauw«ys and docks, and recently widened Loudon tfr d-e—as t.ie finest he i a '• ev.-r seen. The d<4i-bing or ttie wives against the walls, and especially against t'ij- iiristious, :?id trje splashing of the yvater uVer to the prosnena le, is one of the grandest' s ghti aaginanie. lu iriint of the Marine terrace is a wide, flagged or ntenctde, waere townspeople and visitors mostly congregate, especially in tut; evemu^s, the baud ueing a great attraction. AS A HEALTH RESO BT. For co nsiderably over a hundred years the town h'd:. had a Itigti reputaton as a htalth rv«:;rt, and tfLt refutation is fully maintained, for tar more people have visited the place this summer than it; any previous season. Iu the woids of Mr T. O. Morgan, barrister-at- aw, in his aumirable Guide, long since out of "'1'0 who for health and recreation s,ek a summer retreat, where they may sojourn and i ujoy for a see sou the beneficial effects ot sea air aud »e-i oalhit,g, the western coast of our island seem-* peculiarly inviting inasmuch as west-rly breezes arc softer than those from any other quarter, Mud here some direct trorn the ocean, impregnated with taose eaiiae and renovating propert.es so salutary to the invalid, and grateful to the healthy and robust. These inducements have, d.ubtless, gamed with many a preference for the Welsh coast; the general aspect of which is open to tiie pure and mvi^oiating oreazes of the broad iitLntic. To no place on our coast, however, haa a greater degree ot patronge been extended than to the subject of this notice Nor can the most cursory tourist fail to admit its claim to public favour, wtien contemplating the position of the town atthejnnottonof two romantic valleys in the very centre of a cpaoious bay, into wbicn no la.r;:« rivers discharge themselves to deteriorate the briny quality of the t auslucent waters that lave its pebbly shore, and neur which float no nexsous vapour- to con- taminate the purity of its salubrious ataioi-phere; out affording a delightful combination of mountain air and ocean breeze, whilst the vicinity abounds in subjects historic interest and picturesque beauty." AS WINTER. liESORT. Considerable efforts have been made of recent ears to popularise the town as a winter resort. In ,d,r t, a*,tiiii this end it will be to increase the sociability of the place. ii.therto vi<o nave found l.f:- 111 apartments dol., sy«d it rest8 witii lo<'»i«}j house, boarding house an.i hotel uctpers to increase the social element, winch they .•mi easily do. Of course tradesmen and others cau ■JO much in the same direction. THE TOWN. i he town i-^ being rapidly modernised and extended, andtLJe accommoaation tor visitors La." been üo 11 bled in a tew yea s. New streets have been bmlfc.wich a superior class of houses, and the old houses are being rapidly replaced by others of a better class, this being a condition accompanying the renewal of the Cor- poration leases. Nearly all the land to the east of Chalybeate street and Baker street belongs to the Corporation, aid a revenue of about three thousand pounds a year is now derived from this source. Victoria terrace, Marine terrace, and South Marine terrace face the = pa, but comfortable apartments are provided in all pELits of the town. THE CASTLE. The Castle and ta grounds have been well described as the town's most valuable asset. The hill projects into the sea, and commands a beautiful view ot the whole, of Cardigan Bay. The new promenade skirts its north and west sides. During the winter the promenade on the west si;o cannot fail to be a favorite spot, for it i" sheltered frotH tbe cold winds, and is open nearly all day to the sun, whilst the scats in the retaining walls give addi- tional shelter. The Castle has been in ruins since 1646, when it was mined and blown up by the Parliamentary forces. The original structure was erected by Gilbert de Strongbow, Earl of Strygytl, to whom King Henry f. gave a grant of all the territories of Cadvvgan ap Bletbyn, on the usual condition that he should obtain possession by the sword. It changed hands on several oecasions. The present cast.e was erected in the reign of Eoward 1. In 1835. and 1844 the grounds were excavated and wails cleared. A year or two ago the Town Council decided to make further excavations, and the remains of the wall on the east side were tiaced, and has now been rebuilt. The clearing of the moat, on the north side bas also been commenced, as well as the moat on the south-west. RAILWAYS. Aberystwyth is reached by the Cambrian llailways from all parts of England through Mid Wales and from North Wales, whilst the M, and M. Bhiiway affords direct communication with South Wales and the South and West of England. London can, of course, be reached by both lines. EXCURSIONS. In former years Devil's Bridge was almost the only place of attraction outside the town, but 'of late years other have been opened up. Devil's Bridge can now be peached by rail as well as byroad. Corris, with its narrow gauge railway, and coach drves to Talvllyn and Cader Idris, is vicijs-d by thousands every season. Llyfuant Valley is a charm. ing spot, and cheap tickets arc issued, there, a-j well as to Borth, Aberclovey, TOTPVH, Barmouth, Dol- gelley, Cricciith, Pwllheli, &0. There are also several coaching t"urs. On the Manchester and Milford there are some charming spots, especially in the neighbourhood of Crosswood and-towards Ystrad Meurig, a,nd cheap tickets ace issued.. There: is also a beautiful country from Crosswood along the banks ot the Ystwyth, by Lianafan Bridge, up to Pontrhyd- ygroes and Ysbytey Ystwytn, and up the valley past Hafod, Eglwys Newydd Church, and on to Cwm- ystwyth, and back to Devil's Bridge. Hafod has been described as "the Paradise of Wales." It has been said, but probably without the slightest foundation, that Handel composed the "Hallelujah Chorus" at Hafod. Anyhow, not one of the old guide books, nor any author, makes any mention of this. If it were true it would have been well known, and would certainly have been men- tioned, Handel is alleged to have written his famous choras after hearing people shouting "gogoniant" (glory) at Welsh religions services But what is therp in the shouting of gogoniant to suggest the "Hallelujah Chorus?" Nothing whatever. No more than theye is in the shouting of Hallelujah by Salvation Army lasses, "rlie drive home throogh Ponterwyd and Goginan jls also pretty in uotue- p-«rts and bleak elsewhere. Cwmrheidol valley is also worth an aiternoon drive. DEVIL'S BRIDGE. Descriptions of the bridges—du re are three now, on* above the others-ami of the i alls, and of the bsautifnl scenery around, can be t'ouuu m every guide EX.KRCIS» IN SEA. AIR. Dr Harries, in his GuMe to Sea-Bathing, says — Exercise of whatever kind (sails the muscles mure 0 or less into play, quickens tne circulation of the blood, promotes tne action of the liver and so on, but that carried on in the open air on the. shore has trie incidental advantage ot supplying a pure air fur respiration, and it implies a-, hange ot seene and occupation which reacts favourably on the mind. The n,.r is not only void of the endless varieties or impurities which contaminate it in large towns, but is luipregnatsd with saline particles which are most renovating in many diseases. What a cout.iasr. between this air and the atmosphere of large town- We breathe it deeply and luxuriously, as though we were quaffing some delicious beverage, aud instinctively feel that the soit wasteriy breeze with which we are favoured conveys hea,th and vigour on its balmy wings. The only way of obtaining those marvellous beneficial changes is by making the beacti your headqaart rs, hastening to it early m the morning, and reluctantly leaving ii, in the evening. Therefore, you may consider every hour spent within door* as lost; and he who expects to improve his health whilst leading a sedentary life is as great a rooi as the man who condemns himself to perpetual silence in order to perfect his voice." To comprehend the changes which take place ir, children would be impossible for any one who has not witnessed them. Para air, strong light, and invigorating water—their combined influence is tua.gictt.t. Tu children, says the French author, LVI. L8 Docteur Brochard, th" sea is a beneficial mother who calls all our suffering little ones to partake of her aid, who lends them her succouring hand, and who always procures them comfort and solace for their pain." Once and for all let me impress upon health seekers the fact that but little good can be exp-cted from sea-side visits, without in eo" ry way as.-isting the operation of the regenerating remedies which the ocean offers." CONSTITUTION HILL. 'i his hill is to the north of the town, and over it i" a vv-uk leading to Olarach valley. The summit has been laid out as a pleasure garden, with a pavilion, bandt-tand, kiosks, &c. A cliff railway runs up-waru from the north end of the promenade. PENDIMAS. This hi*jh hill, to the south of the town, commamds a charming view of the whole of Cardigan Bay and ot parts of several counties. On the summit are the remains of an ancient British encampment, and within sight of it are the remains ot half-a-dozen oth«-r old encampments. It is said, that there are no remains of lintisn encampments to the east of the Plyniimon range, whilst there are several to the west, from which it is inferred that in those days North Cardiganshire was attacked from the sea and not I, om the land. On the summit of Pendinas is a monument erected in memory of the Duke of VVelhngton. LLANBADARN FAWR. This pretty little village, which is the garden of Aberystwyth, is chiefly noted tor its fine.old church, Ii, hlCll is cruciform m shape with a massive square tower. The first church was built in the sixth century, an 1 was the cathedral of a diocese, of which t Padaru was the first bishop. That edifice was destroyed by the Saxons, and the diocese ceased to have a separate existence. It is also said that 8t Padaru established a College here on a large scale. In the churchyard are two ancient crosses. The churi'i has b.en recently restored. It contains some fine pieces of sculpture in memory of members > i the (iogerddan and Naut Eos families, and a stone in the floor of the cbancel marks the grave of Lewis Morris, oet, auctquary and Government official, who resided at Penbryn, in the little valley below Goginan. Llanb&da"n is about a tIllle to the east of the town. L; the centre of the village is a large stone, supposed to have been used by the Druids. WHAT OTHER PEOPLE SAY OF ABERYSTWYTH. Dr T. D Harries, in his Guide to Sea Bathing, says This p.ace, as a glance at the map will show, is situated on the beautiful Cardigan Bay. It has a westerly aspect, and is favoured by bracing and temperate breezes, which, blowing over the bounties; Western Ocean, are exempt from the extremes ot he-it and cold, and are impregnated with the very germs of health. The .general appearance of the surrounding scenery reminds one not a little of Matthew Arnold's well known lines— "Far, far from hence The Adriatic breaks in a warm bay, Among the green Illyrian hills, and there The sunshine in the happy glens is fair; Aud by the sea, and in the brakes, The is cool, the sea-side air Buoyant and fresh, the mountain flowers Mois virginal and sweet than ours." i The temperature is never of that humid, relaxing, and languid character which not only enervate- and depresses, but tends to general stomachic derauge- me t. Ample experience Las i-hown too that tne ciiam of iiilis, which shelter the place from the cold noita and east winds so trj ing t; the invalid, do not, ow ng to their lietanee, obstruct, or intertere with the free movement of the air. In consequence of these geographical and atmospheric features,it is observed that less ra.ni falls here than in many places and with a, genera, absence of t'rofet and snow during the coldeat.mouttig of the year, renders Aberystwyth increasingly popular as a desirable winter residence as well. The walks in the neighbourhood are numerous and picturesque." The Aberystwyth Guide of 1816—the first local guide printed—says—" The surrounding country is more romantic, and exhibits far greater natural beauties than any other watering place in England or Wales, however well attended, could yet boast of. The suburbs adjoining are, by nature, fertile, and exhibit all the variegated charms of hill and iial,e. wood and water, whether viewed from the lofty mount or flowery slope, characterising the delightful prospect, with views alternately ascending, and descending, pre-eminently beautiful," &c. A writer in The Umpire," September 4tli, 1904 says "In the autumn, when the season at the great majority of watering-places is on the wane, the health re.-orts on the shores of Cardigan Bay are at their best. In tact, September and October are two of the best months in the year in which to visit them, and they are generally very fine months. The air is bracing, yet never chilly. In fsct it approximates to that of the famed resort.s on the Kiviera. And autumn is the month of sunsets—the most glorious it is possible to see in Great Britain. In the centre of the bay, the most magnificent in Britain lied "ne of the most charming places I know, Aberystwyth. In fact, I might say without much fear of contradictions the most charming, having regard to the wonderful combination of mountain scenery, glorious sea and climate which Aberystwyth can lay claim to. The place has been called the Brighton of Wales but tnat is dointf it an injustice, as it is as much superior to Brighton as a racer is to a cab horse. It, might better be described as the Naples of Britain, only that it is clean where Naples i, dirty, and healthy where Naples is insanitary. But we may well leave titles alone, and be content with having within ea,v reach one of the most desirable places for the searcher after health or pleasure that I-and I speak after an unusually wide experience of holiday haunts and health resorts, both at home and abroad —ever visited." Dr J. A. H. Murray, editor of the Oxford English Dictionary, who has spent his holidays at the quiet seaside resort Borth speaking at Aberystwyth in the summer of 1903, says-" Great mental refresh- ment can be got at Aberystwytb, because Aberyst- wyth husthe mountains and the sea, and those grand features of nature which, after all, have the greatest influence on the mind, and are our greatest educator- I oonfess that the beauties of Aberystwyth are exceeding great, and that the beauties of Wales are very great indeed. Wales is so close at hand to England, and Wales has advan- tages which are not to be found in Scotland or the English Lake districts, or even in Switzerland. In Scotland and 'Switzerland you have mountains, and in the Lake districts natural beauty of a high or. er but Wnles has the exceptional advantage of a delightful combination of sea and mountain almost within immediate reach, so that if one has a large family some members of it may like to dabble on the sands, while others may like, as I do, to ramble over moor and mountain; and ip j« in these$hipgs that Wales has great advantages ever other resorts as a place of health and recreation. Aberystwyth is in many respects a miniature Wales. It has a magnificent sea and a magnificent hill country close at hand, aud the facilities for getting about are increasing. We can now get into the glorious district of the Devil's Bridge, and, with comparative ease, go from Aberystwyth to the top of Cader Idris mountain nd back well within a day." The Cambrian Travellers' Guide," 1813 (?), says —Aberystwyth is a pleasant summer retreat. It is the largest town in the county,, and the roa:" to st have been made equal to the I)e.t in England. Many of the new houses are the property of sir Thomas Bonsgll, Bart., li-'ror,tra,th. The place bids fair to rival the English waterinsj-places. Tbe co4st is grand, and the marine project particularly fine. The rocks are lofty, book "Hd x-av-ted. Th bathing ig well conducted. Tho number of Nhtpa registered in the port is 210, tne tooi»«fire 8 120, und the seamen «n.pl yed 762. The largest vessel | is 207 'ons, a d tne smalie.-t IS. There is about 14 feet of wate: ai, ih at oprit.g Ü ir*. A consider- able fishery i« earned others. ("d m tek-rel herrings, Ac., are sent as far as Shrewsbury; the ref-t, are saite..1, ana with potatoes tut-i the principal food of toe labourIng poor during winter. At i he foot o! t. e cliffs extend reels of 1 .w rocks, the crevices and pools of which are adorned, with numerous beaut ful corraLnesand fuci, and enlivenefi by different kinds of shell fish and marine animals. Mr Henry Skrine, in his Tours through Wales, se.n nd edition, 18i2, -ays:—"The sea views, com- prehending tiie Ca r. arvonshire hills on the opposite side of the bm, continued very fine as we advanced cowan-Is A' er.\«twyth, and most agreeably beguiled the labours of the r ad, which winding over the roefcy bases of ilJeessaut hills, forbad any expeditious advance. In a narrow vale we crossed the Ystwith bya bridge profu-ely decorated with ivy, and ascend- ing a steeproek from its banks, soon came in sight of the greater vale of the iJhyool, and the town of Aberystwyth, situated ou a, bold eminence overhang- ing the sea close to its mouth. This town, forming a fine project as viewed from a sufficient distance, rather disappointed me when we reached it, the streets being steep and ill paved, whhe the housea, built of the black slatcstone of the country, gave the whole a gloomy and rather dirty appearance. It has long been a favourite resort for sea bathing to the inhabitants of the neighbouring counties, and we found it full of company, who must have been con- tented with very moderate accommodation. The beach is sufficiently convenient, and a public walk, traced with some tiste and ingenuity among the fragments of its castle. A WORD FOR SLOW TRAVELLING. 1 It is high time that people living in Wales at leas should cease to complain of what they allege- wromjiy, as we hoid- to be the disadvantage of .low trains on the Cambrian and the M. & M. railways, whose services are a, efficient as tho-e on any rail- ways under similar circuw",1 .ees in the kingdom, or indeed in the wor d. Whot ï", wanted i-< to induce visitors to notíC" the country through which they are pa-sing. Probably of every ten persons who come to the seaside not more than one can give any idea ol the country through which they have travelled. A writer in i \Vodd," describing a trip from Barien to Cologne, says—"The voyage lasts all hour or so longer just now, for the level of tne liver is lower than it has been for many years, and the captains are compelled to slow down at certain places. But this is a delay of which no one would complain when, as ba" been tne ea-e for some time past, the weather is'fine, for the reduced speed gives one all the more time to admire the beautdu scenery." SEAWEEDS AT ABERYSTWYTH. Professor J. H. Salter, U.C.W., has kindly favoured us with the following informatton The sea-weeds are a group of plants so varied and beautiful in structure as to give pleasure to all who attempt to study and collect them. Perhaps the best place to find a good variety is below the College. Here it will easily be seen that they form three classes, according to colour. The green sea-weeds grow upon the seawall and at the top of the beach, the olive-brown ones, represented by the well-known Kueus or Sea-wrack, cover the rocks between tide- marks, while the red ones grow chiefly in deeper water, being adapted to live where only a. dim light can reach them. After a storm numbers of them, which have been torn from their attachment, are thrown up upon the beach, and we then have an opportunity of finding aome of the rare and delicate kinds. Some are leaf-like, some are composel of the finest threads so arranged as to remind one of the structure of a feather. The first to make a list of the seaweeds at Aberystwyth was Mr Thomas Owen Morgan, who was mayor of the town about 1850. In his Guide will be found directions for drying and preserving these fragile but beautiful plants. They should be spread out in water over a sheet of white paper which is then carefully withdrawn, allowing the water to run off while the seaweed remains fully expanded.