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GOSSIP ON DRESS.

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GOSSIP ON DRESS. A LADY writer on Summer Fashions in the Standard says: Grey is unquestionably first favourite as far as colours are concerned, at the present time, and will take high rank through the summer, if one may judge from the numberless dresses, mantles, dust cloaks and coats, to say nothing of the bonnets and hats, which are being prepared in different shades of this colour, and in all sorts of materials, both here and in Paris. Yellow and grey are all w. ll worn, as are grey and white, grey and pink. and certain shades of blue, the lighter tones of colour being just now best patronised. A tasteful dress, a French model, is in silver grey summer cloth, with a novel shaped three- cornered panel on the skirt in applique work of the cloth, silver thread and grey silk on a plush forma- tion the drapery is of the cloth, as is the bodice, which has a plastron in stripes of applique work, like design on the skirt panel. ANOTHER grey gown, tailor-made, is in a new check material in grey and white squares of this the bodice and draperies are made, the underskirt being of Venetian cloth in a deeper tone of grey, the check draperies, which are very long, are lined with the cloth, this lining being visible where the dra- peries are turned up over the skirt; the fulness at the back is set in on to the bodice in a fashion highly becoming to the figure. For out-of-door wear with this gown a smart little semi-fitting coat with strapped seams is provided, and a hat of an entirely new shape in Tuscan straw of the same shade of grey; the crown of which is of the cloth arranged in artistic folds, the straw brim being deeply turned up on the left side, and kept in place by a single quill feather run through. ANOTHER tailor-built gown, remarkable for its extreme simplicity, has just been made for Royalty; this is in grey and black and narrow striped cloth of very fine quality and beautifully soft; a long tablier forms the front draping of the skirt, the folds being taken aback quite flatly over the hips, and the full drapery behind raised high below the waist the tightly-fitting bodice is cut with a round basque and buttoned down the centre; and over-coat of the same cloth, with single-breasted front, grey silk lapel and high military collar, being sent out with the dress. 1t NEXT to grey, vieille rose, or Charles X. as it is called by some dressmakers, heliotrope, blues, and reds are the most noticeable. Gobelin, the newest shade in blue, is a delightfully fresh and cool-looking colour, and some very successful dresses are being made of it. One, in nuns' veiling, is trimmed with bands of cream Surah embroidered with corn-flowers,, and bordered with narrow blue lines. This style of trimming is very French-looking, and decidedly effective. The skirt of this dress is full and un- draped, the bodice being also slightly fulled and secured at the waist by a band of the embroidered Surab, which is tied in a loose, careless-looking bow, with long ends, on the left side. The sleeveo are Suite full, with bands and cuffs of the Surah, and ae hat, of the same shade of blue in coarse straw, is ornamented with loops of embroidered Surah and clusters of cornflowers and gras. APROPOS of full sleeves, the old bishop form is rapidly coming into favour again, the fulness being gathered into a band at the wrists. Many of the best French modistes are cutting sleeves thus, and though for tailor-made gowns the coat sleeve is de rigueur, many variations are now observed in the style of sleeve for afternoon and washing dresses. And the material used now frequently differs from that of the dress itself, though corresponding with its trimmings insertions of lace are placed on the out- side of the arm, or if lace is used on the dress as trimming, the sleeves are made of it and zet inf epau- lette fashion on the shoulders. WHY vivid red should be selected as a summer coloar it is difficult to understand; in the winter months, with an absence of sunshine, we need a certain amount of warm colouring in our attire, but when the hot days are really with us then red dresses, mantles, bonnets, hats, and sunshades are trying, there being a want of repose about the aggressive shades of red which is distasteful not only to the eyes, but the feelings of the beholders, while the cool tones of green, blue, grey, cream, and white are absolutely grateful. Fashion, however, decrees that red is to be worn this season, and in this, as in other vagaries, her devotees will follow her blindly. # FOR evening dress pink is greatly worn, and in all shades. One of the greatest novelties in light mate- rials for draping consists of narrow gauze ribbon and white lace insertion, scattered over with roses in crépe' These, being worked in relief, are extremely effective lined with soft rose-coloured silk this makes a wonder- fully pretty draping for bodices and for the fronts of trained dresses. An example of it is displayed by a French maker in a dinner dress, the material of which is rich silk, of a pale pink shade, the demi-train of this is lined with white silk, and the pink petticoat has an overdraping of the rose-covered material, the Y-shaped bodice being also draped with it. A QUIET, but stylish dinner dress is of light pigeon grey silk and striped grey and white gauze, the silk demi-train is lined with white satin, which the train is turned back slightly at the hips to show, the front of the white satin petticoat is draped with the gauze, two panels of silk, with a slight division between them, being set on the right side of the skirt; the gauze passing beneath these panels shows between them, and the graceful folds into which it falls in front are caught together on the left side with grey velvet ribbons. The V-cut bodice is draped very simply with gauze, as are the sleeves, which almost reach the elbow. • • • YET another dinner gown is in cream satin and grey velvet, trimmed with beautiful steel passemen- terie and steel embroidery, the plain square-cut train of this being caught up in two large poufs below the waist. There is always something new in tea-gowns the most artistic lately seen is in the new shade of terra cotta in Umritsur cashmere over soft ivory silk; the lines of this robe are simple and flowing, the back being cut en Princesse, and fitted to t.he figure, the fronts falling in long strait lines from the neck to the feet; at the throat and waist are shaped pieces of terra cotta-coloured beading. ANOTHER model has long hanging sleeves which fall almost to the edge of the semi-fitting gown, which is draped with fine lace, the material being dead-white faille Frant^iise. Lace undersleeves, fitted to the arm, are worn beneath the others. This shape in Tussur silk and lace, with olive green silk lining, would be effective, as also in yellow or grey silk, lined with white satin. TUSCAN straw is more used for millinery this season than any other. A Directoire bonnet in this straw has a knot of yellow ribbon beneath the brim in front, and a crown of black fancy straw, with a plume of Tuscan-coloured ostrich tips and the tail feathers of the blackcock in front. Another, in the same straw, is trimmed with ribbon to match, a band of the straw serving to keep in place a group of black ostrich feathers. The upturned brim is bordered with jet. QUITE an ideal bonnet for an elderly lady is of very fine black lace, draped over a foundation of gold wire, which just shows through it in golden gleams. The lace is arranged wing-fashion at the sides, and kept in place with gold-headed pins; gold-coloured ostrich tips are set high in front, and black velvet bows mingled with lace on the right side, a little gold lace being introduced round the brim of the bonnet, the full lace strings being very becoming and softening to the face. With s.lver-grey feathers and steel lace mingled with the black, this bonnet would look equally well. w OF the large hats, one called the "Dorothy" is certain to become popular. It is in silver-grey rice- straw, with large plumes, bows of ribbon, and em- broidery in the same colour, and is lined with blue velvet. A high-crowned hat in Tuscan straw is also likely to prove a success. The brim of this last is lined with black chip, and turned up deeply on the left side, being there held in place by a large bow of black ribbon folds of delicate crfipe-lisse and a creamy yellow bird of Paradise feather form the rest of the trimming. It is difficult to say which is the prettier of these two hats, for both are really charm- ing creations, stylish, yet in thoroughly good taste. A hat in white velvet, also of large shape, is known as the "Van Dyck." This is trimmed with variously- eoloured feathers. THE Directoire and Empire styles are greatly fol- lowed, and large shapes are covered with black lace, which is noft artistically arranged with aprayw of pale mauve, white lilac, laburnum, apple blossom, or I pink and white thorn. # IN the dress of the present day, as well as in the style of hair-dressing, there is a tendency to return to the modes which prevailed in the latter portion of the eighteenth century and the earlier part of this; the stiff bows of hair, set on the top of the head with high combs to keep, hem in place have been already adopted by ultra-fashionables abroad, and the large bonnets and hats are some of them facsimiles of those which were worn by our grandmothers and great-grandmothers.

----------------" LORD RANDOLPH…

RUSSIAN THREATS TO THE SULTAN.

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[THE STATE OF IRELAND.

------.---CANADA AND THE QUEEN:

A FORTUNATE FIND.

A STRUGGLE FOR LIFE.

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--" lltisallmwflus frtldltjgfltt'#;