The Aberystwith Observer

[ALL BIGHTS RESERVED.] STRIVE AND THRIVE. --0- CHAPTER XXV. AN 'UNWELCOME STRANGER. Miss WALWORTH could not long rest under the weight of obligations which her hospitable friends imposed » upon her; and when a few days had elapsed, and by their aid she had procured some necessary clothing, she announced her determination of seeking employ- ment. She saw plainly that she could do nothing for the Sibbalds which would remunerate them for the support of herself and brother; and although she would have been too happy to make her home with them, she never could consent to do so as a dependant. When her friends found that her resolution was fixed, they reflected how they might best aid her endea- vours at self-support, and many were the plans dis- cussed in family council for this purpose. Newspapers were consulted, and long lists of adver- tisements were daily examined, to see if there were any wants which Eda could supply. Don't you think, Sally," said Grace, one morning, that it would be a good plan to take Eda to our stylish cousins, the Minks ? They must have plenty of plain sewing to do, and embroidery, too." I have thought of them," replied Sally; but I do not like to ask favours of such people, who seem almost to have forgotten us since they have become rich. They were glad enough to associate with us before poor Arthur s death." We must not mind that, if we can assist Eda," said Grace. I am sure I do not want to visit such grand people, nor to have them visit us. How would such over-dressed ladies look making a morning-call in a parlour like this, with their carriage and liveried servants at the door ? Neither do I want them," said Sally; but Ido not like to be overlooked just because I am poor. Every- body knows that the Minks would be nothing except for their money, and that but for that terrible accident which deprived us at once of our brother and nephew, they would have been as poor as we are now." And poor Arthur would have had all that immense wealth," added Grace. I am sure he would never have made such a ridiculous display of it." This subject was, of course, one of frequent dis- cussion between the unfortunate sisters and it was revived now chiefly because they wished Eda to be informed on a topic of so great interest to themselves. Some part of these facts, of course, Miss Walworth already knew. Her first interview with Grace had made her acquainted with the loss of Arthur Sibbald and his family, by the calamity of which she had herself so nearly been a victim, and she had subsequently heard from the sisters something of the great fortune which had been diverted from their family by this memor- able catastrophe. Of the Minks, upon whose shoulders the golden shower had alighted, she had never before heard nor of course could she have the slightest suspicion that she had once seen and conversed with the head of that now aristocratic family, at her own home, and on the very day when her acquaintance With Grace commenced. Although Sally Sibbald tried hard to keep down her resentment at the upstart Minks, it awoke to new life whenever the name was mentioned; and she would have probably submitted to any amount of suffering rather than have asked a personal favour at the hands of any of the family. But she believed that she ought not to let this feel- ing operate to the prejudice of her friends, especially as she was certain that it would be rather conferring than receiving an obligation, to supply them with such a seamstress as Eda was sure to prove. It was accordingly resolved that application should at once be made at the millionaire's, and Sally, over- coming all scruples, accompanied the anxious girl to the great house on that very day. They were received with much affability and cor- diality by Mrs. Mink, who, to their great delight, declared that a seamstress was exactly what she did want, and she believed she could give steady employ- ment for six months to a competent person. You know Miranda has a great deal of extra work about these days," she added, with an expres- sive look at Sally, especially embroidery, which she likes to have done under her eye. Her dresses, of course, are all given out, and the colonel complains of the enormous bills. We discharged one young woman only a few days since for some impertinence, «* anc*we f°und no one to take her place. We Ra6re pay^nS her nearly two dollars a day, and I dare say your friend from the country would be glad to Worlr for TIQI-P -M J • J? ur nalt that price. Eda expressed her perfect willingness to do so. Have you any sx>echnents of your work ?" asked Mrs.^ Mink. Miss Walworth produced some, which were pro- nounced highly satisfactory. I expect Miranda every moment," continued the great lady. "She and her pa, that is to say the colonel, are out driving, but they were to be at home at two, which it is now several minutes past. Of course, I prefer to see Mi. before deciding positively, as she may have engaged some one. Besides, I want her to see your work, which I am sure she will like." The great colonel and'his dashing daughter came at last. Miranda was met at the front door by her mother, who detained her there a few moments, to give her some account of the visitors who awaited her. Oh, I am very glad," she said, as she sailed into the room, richly dressed, and extended a hand, with an air of great condescension, to Miss Sibbald. Sally took it, feeling very much as if she would like to bite it, but replying politely to Miss Mink's salutation. I am so glad you have brought us help," she added, quickly, and before Sally could introduce her friend. This is the young woman, I suppose. What y did you say her name was, mother ? While Miranda spoke, her eyes were fixed in very evident surprise upon the beautiful but greatly dis- concerted Eda. I declare I never thought to ask," replied Honora. "Miss Walworth," said Sally, quickly, for she now remembered with some embarrassment that she had not formally introduced Eda even to Mrs. Mink. She had only spoken of her as a young friend of hers from the country. But when her name was pronounced, the mother and daughter at once exchanged glances and the for- mer, who lacked the presence of mind which at all times characterised Miss Mink, put up her hands and exclaimed- Is it possible that-that- Pray, mother, be quiet!" interposed Miranda, very quickly. I presume the young woman is not any one whom you have ever seen or heard of before." Oh, of course not! I did not say she was, did I?" Mrs. Mink had only in part recovered her self- Possession, and still gazed with an air of actual alarm upon the fair young stranger. Miss Sibbald had in the meantime been trying to speak, and she now said calmly, but earnestly- I was about to tell you, and should have done so sooner, only that the subject is for obvious reasons a most painful one to me, that this young lady, Miss Eda Walworth, was one of the passengers on that ill- fated boat on which my poor brother lost his life. She, with her brother, were saved by the efforts of an English gentleman, a Mr. Belmont, who was one of the passengers, and who at the same time rescued an infant. The child's parents were lost, and its rela- tions being advertised for by Miss Walworth's father, We sent Grace to see it, hoping that it might prove to be dear little Arthur. In this, of course, we were disappointed, but it was thus that our acquaintance With Miss Walworth commenced. She has since been unfortunate—and—and—that is all." Extreme pallor evinced the great agitation of both Mry. Mink and her daughter during the recital of this brief story; but if this was observed, it was considered only the natural effect of an exciting Narrative upon ladies of a highly nervous tempera- ment. This opinion was fully confirmed by Miranda's reply It is, then, as mother and I suspected the moment We heard the name, for, of course, we had heard this romantic story before, which, if I mistake not, was in he newspapers at the time. You have really been quite a heroine, then, Miss—a—Walworth." a one as I hope never to be again," Eda re- plied, with a smile. "Ah, very well answered. And now as to—to iisiness matters; will you please to let me see the Peeimens of your work which you have brought °U'tlie embroidei'y more particularly?" ■E-aa showed them, and Miranda, barely touching nem with still ungloved and trembW fingers, jh- etantly replied8 fa shin011' yes"it's very nice—very fine indeed W@ vnv,! certMnly have work for you, either here or at w ttwie. Wfi will send vou word to-morrow, for I 1 really have too many engagements this morning to j give you another minute." No small part of Miss Mink's trepidation had been owing to her fear that Belmont might chance to call before Eda had departed. She had no especial reason j to expect him that afternoon, but as his visits were ¡ frequent, and occurred at uncertain hours, she could | not feel quite free from danger. But the unprincipled Miranda, although partaking ? in the game of duplicity which was designed to pre- ¡ vent Howard and Miss Walworth from meeting, was entirely ignorant of that far graver crime which lay j upon the consciences of her parents, rendering them morbidly sensitive to the fear of exposure. We will not trouble you to call again," Miranda ¡ added, as her visitors went out. I shall be sure to r come and see you soon, and make definite arrange- ments about the work. Good morning." Well! We are not quite pushed out! said Sally, indignantly, when they were outside the door. The I, insolent little hussy! I wish you would not toltch her work." Eda answered, I will decline the work, if it is your wish, but I shall as certainly seek it else- where." Oh, then we had better pocket the insult and the money together, for I know by experience how difficult it will prove for you to obtain other em- ployment at anything like remunerative prices. They I are at least rich and able to pay. But see that you charge them roundly, for it will be some satisfac- I tion if we can do something towards spoiling the Egyptians." CHAPTER XXVI. I A GENEROUS OFFER. GREAT was the commotion produced in Colonel Mink's family by Eda's innocent call, and it was difficult at first for either Honora or her daughter to believe that she had not heard of Mr. Belmont's arrival, and taken this mode of throwing herself in his way. But this view of the case was dismissed on reflec- tion as highly improbable, and the next thought was how to make most sure of keeping her in ignorance of a fact, the knowledge of which might prove so detrimental to Miranda. Of course, she must not come here," said Miss Mink; and if we give her work, even though we send it to her and send for it, it can hardly fail but she will sometimes come for directions. We might, indeed, request her not to come, but that would quite shock her, I suppose, for this kind of people have really quite high notions about being treated with politeness." Never mind their notions," said the mother; she will be glad enough to get the work and the pay on any terms that we choose to dictate." It isn't really necessary to have anything to do with her, except to call there and make some excuse for not employing her. Of course, then she would not come again, and the danger would be very slight of her learning anything about Belmont. People in their station really know nothing of what is going on in our circle." That's very true." our And even if she should learn that he was here, and if they should meet, mamma," added Miranda, glanc- ing at the mirror, 1 don't think there is much to be apprehended." "Neither should I, my child, if You don't know, perhaps, how far Belmont has gone," added Miranda, in a lower voice; and he is evidently not a trifler. I am certain that the evening before last he was on the point of declaring himself, when papa came up to invite us down to champagne and oysters. I would have given worlds for another ten minutes. Not that it will make any difference. It's sure to come, if I'm any judge of signs; and I'm sure I ought to be, after having had seven offers." Seven, my love ? Yes, counting Marberry and that Portuguese, Don what's-his-name ? Oh, that yellow old fool! Yes, I'd forgotten him. Well, I am very glad to hear you are getting on so well with Belmont." What has become of pa ? He knows nothing of all this yet." Oh, he's gone to the stables with Richard. One woyld think the man had been a coachman in his day, by thG way he follows up the horses. But mind, when he comes in, I wish to see him alone about this busi- ness, and I will communicate the result of our deli- berations to you." Oh, very well. I shall be glad enough to be out of the way. You can decide; and all that I shall have to do, will be to obey." Colonel Mink received the startling intelligence of Eda's arrival with marked agitation, and with an out- burst of violent wrath at the ill-fortune which threatened to expose his duplicity and to disappoint his cherished plans. He believed it improbable, indeed, that Belmont would wed an obscure and portionless girl like Eda, whatever might be her attractions or the associations which endeared her to him; but he was sure that he would discontinue his addresses to Miranda if he should discover the bad faith with which his frank and ingenuous confidence had been met. Would it not be better, he asked himself, to hasten to Howard, and proclaim the discovery of the object of his search, trusting to his honour to ratify the already implied engagement existing between himself and Miranda ? He hesitated, but conscience made him cowardly, and he believed he saw a safer course. His ambition to have a peer of the English realm for a son-in-law (for such he believed Belmont was sure to become) was so great, that he would leave nothing undone to ensure its gratification, and a persistence in guilt was resolved upon. He felt even proud of the sagacity which dictated this scheme, in which he could see ] nothing but the most certain success. Miss Walworth and her friends were of course not surprised to see the carriage of Colonel Mink at their door on the next day after their visit to that aristo- cratic family, but they were destined to be greatly amazed by the nature of the errand on which Miss Miranda had come, and which she lost no time in explaining. My father will not listen," she said, to the pro- position to engage Miss Wadsworth "Walworth," suggested Sally, somewhat sharply. Miss Walworth (I beg her pardon), in any hireling capacity. He has too much respect for her virtues and misfortunes, of which he has heard; and he hopes that she will allow him to confer a more substantial benefit upon both her and her excellent father-of whom he has also learned much through a—a—mutual friend." Eda looked really astounded now, and said that she was obliged to Colonel Mink for his good opinion. The colonel understands," continued Miranda, from an old friend of your father, that he has gone to the Island of Jamaica in very poor health." Oh, yes replied Eda, with a sigh. He went very early in the present autumn." And that he is unattended by any member of his family, or by any near friend. Am I correct ? Entirely so," replied Eda, quite breathless with expectation of what was coming. The colonel cannot doubt," continued Miss Mink, that the daughter of such a father must be most anxious to hasten to his side, to administer with her own hands to his wants-to-to inspire him with new fiope, if hope yet remains; or, if otherwise, to solace his last hours, and receive his last blessing." Eda's head sank to the table beside her violent tremors convulsed her frame, and she sobbed aloud. Miranda paused until her emotion had subdued, and then calmly continued- You have answered me, Miss Walworth. I cannot misconstrue these signs. You would like to join your father in the West Indies." "Would like toexclaimed Eda, clasping her hands. Heaven has no blessing in its gifts that I should value so highly as this It has been mv daily and nightly prayer." It is answered, then!" said Miranda. My father authorises me to say that you shall go at once, if it is your wish." But I cannot go without Franky," interposed Eda, with much simplicity. I cannot leave him." Of course not. Pa will furnish you with abun- dant means for your voyage out and back, and your sojourn there through the winter; and he will even take it upon himself to select a vessel for your passage. He also begs that you will accept of this purse, to enable you to make preparations for your journey. Some other time he will disclose the name of the friend to whose kind offices you are indebted for the interest which he takes in your welfare." Eda took the purse which Miss Mink had laid upon the table, and rising, she advanced nearer to her as she said— "I will not affect to hesitate in accepting this munificent kindness, but it seems to me like some fairy tale. I assure you that I have been dreading, while you spoke, that I should awake and find it a dream. Tell your excellent father this, and tell him that I have no words to express my joy or my grati- | tude." | Eda's voice trembled as she said this, and the tears were rolling down her cheeks. "You have expressed both very well," replied Miranda, with a patronising air. "I shall report everything to the colonel, who, I know, will be highly gratified. On what day will you be ready to sail?" Any day." Suppose there should be a vessel going to-mor- row?" All the better! I will be ready." And Miss Mink, after many polite adieus, and some gracious invitations to the Misses Sibbald to visit her after their home had been rendered lonely by the departure of their friend, returned to her carriage and drove off. The Misses Sibbald looked silently into each other's eyes for a moment after she had gone, like people astounded. "Well!" exclaimed Sally, "if the sky should fall this minute, I should not be a bit more surprised than I am now!" Nor I either," said Grace. I shouldn't care much if it did, I am so delighted!" replied Eda. Where—where is dear Franky? I must run out and tell him." (To be continued.)

A CABINET MINISTER OF HEALTH. On Saturday evening the second annual dinner of the Association of Public Sanitary Inspectors took place at the Holborn Restaurant. Nearly 200 sani- tary officials, both county and metropolitan, were present. The president occupied the chair, and with him were Dr. Cameron, M.P. for Glasgow; Dr. Alexander Bain, Lord Rector of the University of Aberdeen; Dr. Richardson, F.R.S Captain Douglas Galton, C.B., Mr. James Beal, Dr. Duafield, Mr. Jerram, the chairman, and Mr. Legg, the secretary. Letters were read from the Earl of Shaftesbury and Earl Fortescue. The toast of the evening, Success to the Association," was proposed by Dr. Cameron, who referred to the enormous strides sanitary science had made of late years, though no great party chief bad yet been found bold enough to follow in the path of the late Lord Beaconsfield, and make sanitation a part of his imperial policy. It was derided at the time as a policy of sewage," but the country generally would have been wiser, happier, and better had it been carried out. Mr. Chadwick had done more than any man living for the improvement of the sanitary con- dition of the people, and he hoped that in the dis- I tribution of titles that was bound to come with the death of the present Parliament, the father of sanitary science in England would not be forgotten. Mr. Chadwick, in reply, said that whatever honour might come to him would be wholly devoted to the work in which he had spent his life. Referring to the part sanitary science will take in the approaching general election, he said the object should be to impress the new constituencies with their para- mount interest in this subject; with the wasteful- ness of ignorance, of which the metropolis has pre- sented so great an example with economy of true science, and with the need of legislative securities for its application in administration. To this end it would be necessary to bring together the sanitary functions, now scattered and weakened and wasted in different departments under distracted and divided attentions, and to consolidate them under the un- divided attention of a Board of Specialists, presided over by a Cabinet minister of health. The need of the consolidation of the educational functions, now scattered and weakened and wasted in independent departments, is at length recognised, and it is proposed to bring them under the undivided attention of a Minister of Education, but the scheme at present dis- played imperfect conceptions of administrative organi- ) sation in the omission of fundamental provisions for physical training, such as have been the greatest suc- cesses of our time, and also in the need of preventive sanitary inspection.

SOME FACTS ABOUT THE RUSSIAN ARMY. The Russian army is, I believe the largest in the world. Every year 210,000 young men between the ages of twenty and twenty-four are chosen from every part of the vast Empire to serve their country. They have to serve fifteen years—six in actual service and nine in reserve. The whole strength of the Russian army would therefore be 1,260,000 men in actual service and 1,890,000 reserve. But these figures show only those who are serving and have served; there are many thousands more placed among the reserve not included in the above figures, but forming a kind of Militia, which in themselves are quite a formidable army. In order to show how they are chosen it will be necessary to give a short account of the laws relating to the enlisting of soldiers. Every Russian, upon reaching the age of twenty-one, must appear before the military authorities in order to be exa- mined by a medical man with regard to his fitness for military service. If not strong enough he is sent home, but has to appear for three successive years. If, after appearing three times, he should still be pro- nounced too weak, he goes free. All the rest who are pronounced fit for military service are next called and lots drawn. Those drawing black tickets must enlist; the rest form the Militia. This is done because there are always more young men than the State requires. As above stated, the State requires 210,000 each year. And every town and village have to furnish a certain number of soldiers, the number being fixed by the Government, and, of course, depending upon the size and population of the town. Thus a large town may have to furnish 500 every year, and a small village only about a dozen. It is said that every place could furnish quite twenty per cent. more men than are required these, amounting to about 200,000, form the Militia. Then we have to add Cir- cassians and Cossacks, who make the military profes- sion their principal trade, and we find that Russia can command an army of nearly 4,000,000.—Saturday Journal, Domestic pursuits-Chasing the man of the house with a broomstick.

GOSSIP ON DRESS. AMONG the alterations observable in this season's fashions, as compared with last, the height of bonnets is, perhaps, the most striking. Last year they could not be small enough, or fit too closely to the head now they tower above the face, and are loaded with ,flowers, fruit, leaves, grasses, feathers, lace, ribbons, and gold, silver, pearl, and steel embroideries. Some cynical individual defined a woman's bonnet as "a mass of irrelevancy," but that was years ago-how far more applicable such a description is now ? Raised many inches above the head, they have massed on them every conceivable kind of artificial adornment. NEXT to height of bonnet may be noticed length of waist; and this will be still more apparent as weeks go on, for the French modistes and man-milliners are making their newest models with even longer waists than those seen at present, except in the case of young girls, when round bodies and sashes are the rule. There is a marked difference, too, in the cut of skirts, which now invariably have the appearance of being morning and afternoon dresses-that is, shorter in front than behind-the difference being caused by the new-shaped pad or cushion, which raises the back drapery at the waist. Crinolettes are an abomina- tion, and happily, as such, banished; even steels are no longer used, neither are the best made dresses sent out tied back with strings, the bouffante appear- ance of the skirt being dependent on the superior cut, and the novel shape of the support, which raises it at the back. THE immense amount of gold, silver, jet, steel, and many-coloured bead embroidery used in trimming dresses and all kinds of mantles is another distinctive feature of the year. For several seasons the employ- ment of bead-work has been on the increase, and lately has reached what we may term a crisis, not to be passed, however, just yet, if one may judge from the new creations in bead-embroidered costumes and confections, which as yet have not left the ateliers of the rulers of fashion, the autocrats of the dress world. THE newest French ball dresses are very pretty and graceful looking, chiefly made of lace, or very pale coloured tulle, with tiny spots embroidered in gold or silver-so delicately and finely that they look like gold lace; others are covered with minute glass beads, which have the effect of dew drops. A dress much remarked at a fashionable ball in Paris was made of gold coloured tulle, with an excessively full and airy looking skirt, ornamented with trails of cowslips, which hung from the shoulders to the edge of the skirt; the bodice was of gold-coloured moire, and the sash of the same material; little bouquets of cowslips were arranged in the hair. AMONG the last new trimmings for ball dresses are separate rose petals; all colours are used. White tulle composes the dress itself, and the petals are only gummed on at one corner, so that they float, as it were, with each movement of the dance. A good many of them are shed in the course of the evening; but the first appearance of such a costume is almost poetic. A very pale yellow tulle dress was gummed over in this manner with petals of the Gloire de Dijon, somewhat darker in shade, but of the same colour as the tulle the bodice and underneath skirt were of yellow silk, the edge of the former finished off with half-opened rosebuds, the same flowers being worn in the hair and arranged on the left side of the skirt, with a wide soft silk sash falling in grace- fully unstudied loops. For quite young girls ball dresses are very simply made those of white striped silk gauze, with a plain skirt, or rather skirts-for there are usually three or five- set in very full, are much worn. A Raphael bodice generally accompanies such skirts, with a wide sash of either moire or soft silk, tied loosely at the back. LACE is more used than ever, both across the Channel and here, for morning and afternoon, as well as evening wear. Fine lace and coarse, silk and woollen, real and imitation, in black, white, and all colours, dyed to suit any dress, is seen on every side young girls wear it 'as well as elderly matrons, and use it either for entire dresses, when piece-lace is re- quired, or else for elaborate trimmings. That there is a wonderfully softening effect about this fabric is unquestionable, and for that reason it is perhaps better suited to age than youth. Old ladies who know how to grow old gracefully invariably employ it largely, and wisely too, for it blends admirably with silvered locks, frames an aged face in suitable surroundings, and drapes necks, shoulders, and arms which have lost the beautiful roundness of youth as nothing else can. ^-TIIERE is perhaps but little novelty in the combina- tion of old lace and rich velvet as materials for the adornment of age, but no other two materials are better suited to the purpose. A petticoat of antique lace with a velvet train falling over it—the newest trains, it may be remarked en passant, are now cut with what are called butterfly wings," instead of the square shape which prevailed in the winter-is a toilet which fits an old lady for wear on any occasion, A handsome dress recently sent out from a well-known London house had a plastron of magnificent old lace --an heirloom of a noble family-mounted on a cream- coloured satin petticoat; the lace, narrow at the waist, widened out to the full front of the skirt; the train, cut in the new style and lined with cream satin, was gathered in small pleats at the back beneath the velvet bodice, which was pointed before, behind, and at the sides. An old-fashioned square double-collated lace cape was worn over it, the smallest collar secured at the throat with a diamond star; the fichu ends of the cape lcosely knotted in front, fell below the point of the bodice, which was buttoned with small dia- mond buttons; the elbuw sleeves were deeply frilled with lace, a cap of this costly fabric, with black velvet butterfly-bows secured with diamond stars, completing the costume. A LATE-AFTERNOON dress from a Paris firm is of black Chantilly and black moire; it is made with an Empire waist and a broad very pale lilac moire sash, the unequal ends and loops forming the pouf behind, u and half shrouded in the deep Chantilly lace trimming of the stylish mantle prepared to wear with it. This is of silk grenadine, beaded in an elaborate design, the collar, revers, and sleeves being adorned in a similar manner. The well-cut back of this mantle is of velou- tine silk, and the lace with which it is lavishly orna- mented matches the dress flounces. The bonnet, com- posed of the same lace, is very high and pointed in front, still further heightened by an artistically- arranged and well-poised bunch of pale lilac blossoms, with the slightest admixture of foliage. The short wide strings are of lace fastened with an amethyst pansy. ONE of the newest and handsomest dress materials j ust introduced is brocatelle, which is an admixture of satin and flax, the latter stiffening it and making it as firm as the brocades our grandmothers rejoiced over. It is used chiefly for trains and panels of dresses, the other portions being of plain silk. Con- sidering its extreme effectiveness, it is not expensive, and being a novelty is sure to become fashionable. In water-colour" one of the newest of the new shades-it is excessively pretty, the only difficulty with regard to this particular colour being the trouble of matching it in the plain material; this accom- plished, the result is admirable. Another beautiful dress material recently brought out by a Lyons manu- factory is, in design, an imitation of the old Gobelins brocade, a wonderfully soft as well as rich effect being attained by tiny cross bars, which give all the effect of a tapestry stitch. A bronze-green brocade, with large velvety brown flowers all over it, is very lovely, as iF, one of a pale salmon ground colour, on which are scattered rich red brown leaves. Epingle is another of the rich dull materials just now so much employed by French modistes. This stuff has a raised pattern all over it, but is of the same dull tone as the FFound. It is to be had in all shades. ALL the above-mentioned new fabrics are suitable for middle-aged and elderly ladies' wear, whom it seems somewhat the rule to ignore when writing on the subject of dress. A striking evening toilet of brocatelle, designed for a matron of ripe years, was thus made. The petticoat was of plain "water- coloui-" silk, and the train, of reasonable length, of brocatelle of the same shade. It was turned back in revers from the front of the dress, these revers being of fine old lace, mounted on the plain silk. A scarf of brocatelle crossed the front of the petticoat from right to left, with a deep fringe of steel beads and chenille, the colour of the dress being well carried out in this mixture. The square-cut brocatelle bodice bad a plastron of lace, the deep edging to which hung below the points of the bodice, which was laced with a silk cord to a few inches above the waist in front, the lace of the plastron just showing through the lacing soft frills of lace fell below the elbow sleeves and also shrouded the throat and bust, the hard outline of the material of the dress against the skin being thus wisely avoided, a lace cap, intended to be worn over hair.rolled up on a cushion, with diamond spray and steel grey ostrich tips, making an elegant finish to a tasteful dress.

Mlt. LOWELL ON INTERN ATION AL i ARBITRATION. A numerous deputation from the Workmen's Peace Association, headed by Mr. W. R. Cremer, waited on Mr. James Russell Lowell, the late American Am- bassador to this country, at his official residence in Albemarle-street, on Saturday evening, for the pur- pose of presenting to that popular member of the Corps Diplomatique attached to the Court of St. James an address preparatory to his leaving England for the United States. The address, which Mr. Cremer read, was as follows The Workmen's Peace Association, To James Russell Lowell, Esq. Sir,—The time having now arrived when your official duties and your intercourse with our rulers being ended, you are about to leave this country, we take this as the last and perhaps the most fitting moment to convey to you the feelings of esteem, on the part of the class we represent, entertained towards you for your continuous and kindly expres- sion and support of the principles of Peace and goodwill towards men.' We believe that the present friendly relations between the United States of America and England could never have existed but for the happy settlement by arbitration of the late unfortunate dispute between the two countries-a result which, in our opinion, is largely due to the pre- paration of the public mind on both sides of the Atlantic by the embodiment of the humane and common sense opinions expressed in your own writings. It is, therefore, but natural that we should avail ourselves of this opportunity to thank you, not only for those opinions, but also for the many times during your residence with us that you have endea- voured by all the means in your power to cement the alliance between the two peoples. May we, sir, in bidding you farewell, ask you to convey to our brethren in America our desire that in future there should always be peace between us, an end only to be obtained by a treaty binding the two nations to sub- mit all differences which may arise to arbitration ? That is a consumma ion which we trust the two Governments will be able to bring about, as in the case of your country and Switzerland. We think it almost superfluous to add that you carry with you not only the best wishes of ourselves but, as we believe, of every thinking man in this country, and we trust that your life may long be spared to continue your efforts in the service of mankind." In the course of a complimentary speech Mr. Cremer ex- pressed a sincere hope that an understanding might be arrived at, by which, in the future, any misunder- standings that might unfortunately arise between the great branches of the Anglo-Saxon race would be settled by arbitration. In that way, he believed, they would have taken the first step towards the realisa- tion of the grand principle of international arbitra- tion. (Hear, hear.) Mr. Nieass, of the Progressive Club, Chelsea, also spoke. Mr. Lowell, in reply, said Mr. Cremer and gen- tlemen, I have been exceedingly touched latterly by the kindness which I have received here in England from all classes, but never have I been more pro- foundly touched than by the deputation that has now waited upon me to express the kind wishes of the English working men. I have twice had the pleasure of addressing working men since I have been in England, and I have been gratified to find that, among all the audiences to whom I have spoken, there were none more intelligent. They were exceed- ingly quick to catch all points, and exceedingly agree- able to talk to. You must not think that I have forgotten the part taken by the working men of England during our Civil War—I won't say on be- half of the North, because we are now a united people- on the side of good order and freedom, and on the only occasion when I had an opportunity of saying so—that was when speaking to the provincial press in London-I alluded to the subject. I agree with you entirely in the importance of a good understanding, and much more between England and the United States, and between the two chief branches of the Anglo-Saxon race. I think you exaggerate a good deal my own merit in relation to anything of that sort, but I have always bad a feeling about me that a war between the two countries would be a civil war, and I believe a cordial understanding between them to be absolutely essential not only to the progress of reasonable liberty, but its preservation and its exten- sion to other races. (Hear, hear.) It is a particular pleasure to me on another account to meet English workmen. I notice, however ardent they may be in their aspirations, and however theoretical on some points-I notice they are always reasonable. The in- dividual man may set the impossible before him as something to be obtained, but I think those commu- nities of men have prospered the best who have aimed at what is possible. We see daily illustrations of that, and anybody who has studied the history of France would be convinced that though England has a form of government not so free as that country, yet you have made a greater advance towards goodwill among men, and towards peace, than France bad done ? I don't wish you to suppose that I am out of sympathy with what I call the French Revolution, although I consider it an enormous misfortune, which might have been prevented and have saved France from many evil consequences that followed: but the manner which it took place we ought all to regard. Since I have been in England I have done something, I trust, to promote a cordial feeling between the two countries. That has been my earnest desire always, and I hope I have to some extent succeeded. You will allow me to thank you warmly for this address, which I shall always feel to be among my most precious possessions, and I shall carry to the workmen on the other side of the Atlantic the message expressive of your sympathy and hope. I hope the occasion will not ever arise even for arbitra- tion. I think if we can talk together face to face we shall be able to settle all differences. I am certain that the relations between the two countries are now of a most amicable and friendly kind, and I am equally sure that my successor is as strongly im- pressed as I could be with the necessity of strengthen- ing these friendly relations. I trust the neces- sity for arbitration may never arise between us. I don't think it will. You will again allow me to give you my most hearty and profound thanks for the kindness you have done me and to wish you all manner of prosperity. I trust also that that reign of peace to which you allude may come soon and reign long. (Hear, hear.) I appreciate ex- tremely what Mr. Cremer said as to your sympathy with the Northern States in the Civil War—with whom no one could help sympathising if they went to the root of the matter. I believe in peace as stronglv as any man can do, but I believe also that there are occasions when war is less disastrous than peace; that there are times when one must resort to what goes before all law, and what indeed forms the foundation of it—the law of the strongest; and that as a general rule the strongest deserve to get the best of the struggle. They say satirically that God is on the side of the strong battalions, but I think they are sometimes in the right, and my experience goes to prove that. The deputation then withdrew. The address, en- grossed on vellum, is to be presented to Mr. Lowell in America. DEPARTURE OF MR. LOWELL. The Hon. J. R. Lowell, the retiring American Minister to the Court of St. James's, left London on Sunday afternoon by the five o'clock train from Euston, on a visit to the Duke of Westminster at Eaton Hall, Chester. On leaving Eaton, he embarks for Boston. Mr. Lowell was driven to the station by Mr. White in that gentleman's private carriage. Mrs. White accompanied them, and Mr. Phelps, the new Minister from the United States was waiting at the station to receive Mr. Lowell. The two envoys, past and present, at once engaged in conversation. The whole of the staff of the American Legation, and several private friends had assembled on the platform to bid Mr. Lowell farewell. Mr. Lowell appeared to be much gratified by the warmth of the friendly demonstration. Amongst those assembled on the platform to say goodbye to the departing minister were Mr. Hoppin and Mr. Henry White, Lieutenant Commander Chadwick, U.S., Mr. Alma Tadema, R.A., and the Misses Smalley, and several other gentlemen connected with the diplomatic world. The London and North Western Railway placed a reserved saloon at Mr. Lowell's disposal.

Women may not have any great fondness for the clothes line, but there is one line they are always fond of-masculine.

CHILD MURDER AT TRAME. At the Oxford County Hall, on Saturday, before Mr. C. E. Thornhill and Sir William Anson, George Lawrence Hanson and Sarah Hanson, his wife, were charged with the wilful murder of their infant child, aged five months, at Thame, on the 4th inst. Dr. Lee said he was called to the prisoners' house at a I, quarter to seven in the morning. He went upstairs, and saw the child lying dead on the bed. There was a quantity of blood on the bed, and a still larger quantity on the floor. He found an incised wound of about an inch and a half upon the left side of the neck, which was deep; there were also three other marks which had been produced by some sharp instrument, radiating from the anterior extremity of the deep wound. They must have been done at three distinct times. The deep wound he had spoken of caused death. The child was iu its night- dress. He remarked that it wa3 a very sad affair, and the female prisoner replied to the effect that her husband had done it. He denied it, and said it was the act of his wife. Dr. Lee, in cross- examination, said he had been attending the female prisoner for some five or six weeks. He did not find anything organically wrong, but she was very much depressed. He told her a fortnight ago that she must make an effort to shake off this depression, and if she did not it could only end in one way, she would have to be removed to an asylum. As far as he knew, the male prisoner was always kind to his children, Mrs. Burnard, a sister-in-law, said she beard Mrs. Hanson shout out from her window that her husband had done something, and asked that the police might be fetched. About a quarter to seven she heard the baby crying upstairs. At that time the male prisoner was chopping wood in the kitchen. She heard someone go upstairs, and then George Hanson said, Sarah, what are you doing to baby?" She did not hear any reply, "but there was a heavy tread, as if someone was coming down- stairs, and then George Hanson came running to tha door and said, Sarah has cut baby's throat." He had three razors in his hand, which he asked her to take charge of, but she refused. Mrs. Johnstone said she saw the male prisoner come out of the house, with his other little girl in his arms. He said, My wife has cut baby's throat, and it is dead." The female prisoner then said, It. was not me, George it was you." He replied, It was not me it was you. I love my children too well." She did not see any blood on Mrs. Hanson's nightdress. In the course of the inquiry it was stated that the mals prisoner had lent his wife's father £250, and an action regarding it was proceeding at the present time. The Chairman of the Bench intimated that under the cir- cumstances the Public Prosecutor would be commu- nicated with, and the prisoners would be remanded for a week.

THE BOARD OF TRADE RETURNS. The Board of Trade returns for May issued on Saturday morning show that the total value of the imports for the month was £ 31,658,363. This, as against £ 33,201,114 in May last year, is a decrease of £ 1,542,751. The decrease in the various classes of imports was as follows £ 1,835,259 in raw materials for textile manufactures £338,633 in raw materials for sundry manufactures £314,657 in dutiable arti- cles of food and drink £ 227,580 in living animals; £ 146,083 in metals; £ 131,412 in dye stuffs, chemicals, &c. On the other hand, there was an in- crease of £ 1,133,592 in the impoit of articles of food and drink admitted duty free, and of £ 221,345 in miscellaneous articles. The total value of the im- ports for the first five months of the year was £162,898,917 against £ 169,958,239 for the same period last year, a decrease of £ 7,059,322. The total value of the exports of British and Irish pro- duce and manufactures in May was £ 17,145,117; against £ 19,857,338 in May hat year-a decrease of £ 2,712,221. A decrease is shown in every branch of the export trade, the most marked items being the following Manufactured yarns and textile fabrics, £ 1,239,867; metals and articles manufactured from them, £ 634,785; machinery and mill work, £174,802, chemicals, &c., £ 127,143; apparel and articles of personal use, £114,861; other articles manufactured or partly manufactured, £ 242,027. The value of the exports of British and Irish produce and manu- factures for the first five months of the year was £86,680,799, against £ 96,971.999 in the same period of last year, or a decrease of £ 10,291,200.

A SAD DOMESTIC STORY. William Charles Patten, 31, a florist, was charged on a warrant, at Marylebone Police-court, London, with threatening to stab Lilla, his wife, whereby she went in fear of some bodily harm. The prosecutrix said she bad been living apart from her husband for about two months. On Tuesday last she met him, and under threats used by him she went to 50, Foley- street, where he lived, and remained with him until eleven o'clock on Wednesday morning, when she determined to leave. When she left the house he followed her, used bad language, and said he would dig her eye out with the penknife he then bad in his hand. He had threatened to throw vitriol on to her face. In reply to the magistrate, the prosecutrix said she had quietly submitted to the will of the prisoner as she was afraid of him. He had got into her room, and taken some of her things away. War- rant Officer Clyde spoke to apprehending the prisoner, who told him that he knew nothing about the threats. The prisoner, who spoke with some emotion, said his wife bad been a misery to him ever since he had been married. They were married while he was a member of the Metropolitan Police Force, and in consequence of her bad conduct he was transferred to other divisions. She had summoned him so many times at Clerkenwell Police court that, although not once convicted, he was com- pelled to leave the force. By the influence of gentle- men who knew his character he got an appointment at Holloffuv Gaol, but she continued her annoyance, and in the end he had to resign that appointment, leaving with a first-class testimonial. After this he found it extremely difficult to get employment, and in his trouble he committed himself, and was sent to prison. After his release some detective officers used i their influence on his behalf, and he secured a good appointment. His wife, however, soon found out the gentleman who gave him the appointment, and in consequence of her going to that gentleman he (the prisoner) was very soon afterwards told that he was net wanted any longer. Now, he added, with deep emotion, he was selling flowers in the street for a living. He produced a testimonial he had received from the Countess Enniskellen, which he handed to the magistrate for examination. His reason for leaving his wife was because he had seen her associa- ting with strange men. Officer Clyde said the pri- soner resigned the police force in 1880. Mr. Cook said the story, as placed before him by both sides, was very inconsistent. Under all the circumstances he should deem it sufficient to call upon the prisoner to enter into his own recognisances in £50 to keep the peace for six months.

CORPORATE PROPERTY AND LEGACY DUTIES. An official memorandum has been issued from the Treasury relating to the Customs and Inland Revenue Bill, 188[j-tba£is, the Budget—explanatory of the proposals in the bill affecting the duties (1) on pro- perty of bodies corporate and unincorporate, and (2) on accounts and successions and legacies. The former subject is dealt with in Clauses 19 to 28. By this part of the bill an annual tax of five per cent, is imposed on the profits or income of pro- perty belonging to corporations. This is an entirely new tax, imposed because corporate property at pre- sent escapes probate and legacy or succession duties. The tax applies both to real and personal property, and is to be charged on the profits or income after deducting all necessary outgoings, which are the same as those allowed under the existing law as to succes- sion duty The following classes of property are ex- empt from the tax: Crown property property legally appropriated to any public or semi-public purpose, to religious or charitable purposes or to the promotion of education, literature, science, or art; property belonging to friendly societies or savings banks, or belonging to trading companies if already liable to legacy or successive duties; and property acquired by Corporations within the last thirty years. The new taxi s to be considered a stamp duty, a first charge on the property, and is to be under the control of the Board of Inland Revenue. The Corporation and every accountable officer thereof is to be answerable for the payment. Each Corporation is to send, under penalties, on October 1 of every year, a return to the Board, stating its gross income and the deduc- tions claimed, with other particulars, whereon the- Board may assess the tax, subject to an appeal to the High Court of Justice. If proceedings are taken in any court of law for the administration of property subject to the tax, the Court is to provide for the payment. The new duties on property devolving by death are dealt with in Clauses 29 to 35 of the bill. There are at present four such ta.xes, called respectively probate, account, legacy, and succession duties. Successions to personal property under will, intestacy, or voluntary deeds are liable to two of these taxes, probate or account duty, and legacy or succession duty whereas personal property passing by marriage settlement and successions to real property are liable to succession duty only. The bill will remedy this anomalous state of things by imposing an actual probate or account duty, or an equivalent tax, on all property passing on death by will or by settlement. Probate or account duty will be imposed on property locally situated abroad belonging to a person domiciled in the United Kingdom, and certain estates pur cadre vie: on real estates directed to be sold by will, or held on trust for sale and on all money charged on real estate by will, other than charges by way of annuity. All these are, under the existing law, exempt from probate duty. The 1 per cent. legacy and succession duty on pro- perties where this new probate and account duty is paid will be abolished. Increased succession or legacy duty will be imposed as an equivalent the probate duty on all successions which do uuo pay probate or account duty. The increase will be 2 per cent. to the existing 1 per cent., and 3 per cent. to all the other existing rates. Husbands and wives, who now pay probate and account duty, will be brought into charge for legacy and succession duty at the rate of 3 per cent. in respect of property which does not pay probate or account duty. In the case of personal property settled on a husband or wife for life, with remainder to lineal issue or lineal ancestors, the duty is to be paid at once and for all. In future real pro- perty to be enjoyed by a person absolutely or as tenant in tail will be taxed upon the capital value, and not only on the life interest, but this tax will only have to be paid, as well as the tax on charges on real estate, by way of annuity, in four annual instalments. The bill shortens the period for payment of account duty to three months. Leaseholds which already pay pro- bate duty will not be additionally taxed, and rever- sionary rights already sold will not be charged to the new tax.