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A TRAMP ACROSS WALES.

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A TRAMP ACROSS WALES. [BY THE REV. J. H. STOWELL, M.A.] a.-LAMPETER. CHAPEL NEBO, LLAN- RHYSTED. I was really very tired on my arrival at Plltnpsaint. As this is to be an unvarnished re- cord of the facts of my journey I must admit my feet. were badly blistered, and my limbs all stiff aching after nearly twelve hours walking in the rain. But liberal measures (of haul and coffee inwardly, and Elliman's embrocation outwardly applIed) brought as they always do a renewal of Comfort and confidence. Yet. as I started next -orning from the little village for my third day's walk I had a general sense of fatigue all over me theater than at any other part of my tour. How- ever, the weather was fine again, and I contrived to whistle and sing my pace into something like three miles an hour with a view of reaching Lam- Peter by mid-day. The way led upward, and very fa.lr views of hill and dale presented themselves. but I began to yearn for something pointed in the Way of mountains nothing but a proper gothic J*Otintain with a sharp top would satisfy me. I had enough of these long, rounded gradual "ills hardly Bteep enough to suggest the familiar awitchback. And my dissatisfaction spurred me 011- I was glad to rest for a few minutes at the hill top. four miles from Lampeter, where I found tiny cottage, outside of which a churn and some ^ns suggested butter milk. The interior was a Picture clean as a new toy, and glittering with Polished utensils, and wonderously coloured earthen ware. it seemed an ideal abode for some fairy Dame Trot, and sure enough at my tap, she came dapper little woman, bright, busy, and contented. couldn't but compare that little paradise of com- fort some twelve feet square with many a sad, Untidy, miserable home I have seen in Barry, in 'he elegant brick houses of civilised, well-to-do, 'erili 11 ghteiied Barry We couldn't converse much, blit she thrice filled my glass with her fresh butter- milk, and sent me invigorated on my way. She Refused money for the milk, though on leaving 1 left a few coppers unnoticed on her table. As tO payment for these frequent milks I may say J^t, except for the few cases where I felt the hospitality of the people had effectually hindered 1 payment, and in certain parts of North Wales Where I was charged twopence a glass, a penny a glass for any kind of milk was satisfactory. And |&e tramp should be provided with coppers, unless he is prepared to fling silver about like a real lord, for there is no convenience for giving change in Country places. At farmhouses and elsewhere People are not in the habit of carrying small money *bout with them as we do in towns, and to get it Presses have to be opened, and drawers unlocked, *,lid bags untied, or stockings unrolled till the visitor is perfectly ashamed of himself for having "eked change for a shillinsr. ooon Lampeter came in sight, its church standing .11t rather strikingly on an eminence, and the sub- 8fcantial-looking, though small town pleasantly Placed in the valley of the river Tivy. 1 Relieve, too, though I am not quite ?yre, that at this point the dim, bluish hne of the horizon beyond showed the waters of Cardigan Bay. If so, then in slightly clearer feather the prospect, as one descends the hill into Lampeter, must be very fine. Near the town I Passed some schools, where about 150 boys and girls ^ere having their ten minutes' romp about 11.30. *>°nae of them came to have a nearer look at the ttnwontQd sight of of a knapsacked tourist, and I podded to them. And then it occurred to one *ittle boy to display certain politeness that had evidently been the subject of much training and ^monition. He lifted his hat and said, "Good horning, sir," with faultless pronunciation and decent. Then another and another followed suit, 1JOtne endeavouring to emphasise the politeness by Repetition, till I found myself marching like a Ppocession to a great chorus of respectful greeting In lIly own language. I tried to look bland and Return the compliment by saying what I hear y elsh people about Barry say for How do you ^O'" but it only frightened a few of the nearest ones and I prudently hurried on. Lampeter is an eminently respectable-looking 'Own, but really there is nothing particular to note ^bout it. Of course I looked for signs of the Col- lege and the" eager novice robed in flattering gown." w.n soon came across some of the eager novices, but _^heir eagerness seemed to be mainly for cricket, fhough they were fairly good novices in general *ftforrnatiou. For they coulu'nt tell me the way 0 Aberystwilh. or to Absrayron. The main roads at Lampeter, but they didn't seem to know ^he name of the nearest town in any of the four ^rcetions. They only knew that it was a long way *o anywhere they knew of. A train had brought '•hem to college, and a train would take them ';¡'Way again if I wanted to go anywhere why Wouldn't I take the train, too, they seemed to louder. So I turned from the youths in cap and ?°vvn to a passer-by who looked like a cattle 'fever, and he told me all I wanted to know, and good deal more. But before proceeding 11 ^Rftibed the slight elevation from which the harch overlooks the town, and enjoyed three "^ell-earned luxuries—the view, a thick bacon *j*J*dwich saved from breakfast, and a half-hour's Midday snooze. There is something delightfully j^preative in thus playing the real tramp. Often *h»ve seen the long-faced but Iighthearted gentle- of the road flung full length in the midday 1!1tn., but never experienced the dreamy ^eetness of such rest till I tried it that in Lampeter Churchyard. To have gone some stufEy refreshment room, or the j^Oip parlour redolent of ancient and evil Johacco in some inn, at the most beautiful time of ^e day, to wait an hour it may be for the pre- paration of an orthodox dinner, would have ruined th(1 rustic bdhemianiem of my day's enjoyment. I positively had no dinner at all in the ordinary ta4bion for the whole twelve days of my tramp, 44d it was a. most excellent piece of self-denial. Jiving me a good many other things besides the twelve half-crowns that :the dinners would have Cost. Then si rose refreshed and went on my way to- J^ards Aberyatwith, not even staying to look at the College buildings. There are two roads diverging miles beyond Lampeter, one making straight; o^ Aberayron on the coast and thence to Aberyst- ^'th, this being an excellent coach route of Nearly 29 miles, and the other across the hills, a ?*°re picturesque walk of 24 £ miles. I chose the jitter, though it was out of the question to expect reaoh Abeiystwith that mailt. And it was-indeed a lonely yet lovely walk, l? £ Pping fartdown into a rich valley, where,, under stone arches of a village bridge, I bathed my eet and rested, rising again up the steep sides of fountain, ?*rom the summit of which I had my j view <ef the glories ef the promised ,?d—North "'Wales. MountaUus, distant, but in [lavish lines along the horizon, •"led me with-some of the longed-for sensations of majesty. 'Prominent ameng them rose a ^ass, lion-shape6, royal, like the iking of beasts -tnong his subjects, undoubtedly Blinilimmon, the *cene, I am told..off Owen Glendowei's high jinks, Well as the bk-^place of the Severn and the j-ye. And, by T&e.way, was it no! Nebo. from' *-ose top Moses viewed the land of Canaan 1 Kb *tM rate, the lines of Dr. Watt's came: to me as I -lIveyed the laufc of so many weeks of eager *-ti:;ipations. '"Could I but elidb where Moses «<#ot!, And view the landscape oe'r," is a curious coizicidence that on descending r side, and proceeding a little wag* ;1 found sitting on the prostrate trunk -of a tree, obviously,a ^preacher, and other £ °. possibly, deacons, wfho told me, on .-eggairing ^out road, to keep straight on pjtst Nebo jV*apej.'I A ruddy and golden sunset was colouring j e Westvand I hurried on at my best pace, though elt aiic&gc lame. I ccwattfivcd, however, to fwJopt 0j8°rt of .tvftvnp's limp—a universal characteristic it ecrnity-not with&ut a certain .scien- 5 c value. But for that limp I «hoii!d ^obably shave had to g?ass the night tlier more ajske a tramp than I wished, for tflfce descent .down was Liaonffeysted, six railed ^ead. A lo»g, forlorn, desolate road it was. J&. ^Q. aPidated rii&age round the .aforesaid N-eibo. ^^Pel offered «?ery uninviting hospitality tsy<o hoys who fr&'b spied me raaa £ <way in terror a collection dejected-lookiaag' men, womea, and dogs efcuae to me, bitt J could hardly relations human uitejiigence with 4^ by my Stest pronunciatitti of Marth pantomime ef a very thirsty jcian drink- eeerf- length they beckoned me io an ex- hro ln^J7 dirty hovel. And in a few minutes a gla8S thin, watersd milk, feg-y flavoured with p&stt emoke. Tb&y pro- unwillingness to money, bat avowed a»ai ° ffive coppers to the tsafcies, and I carted DETERM*B«<L to reach LLAKRHYSTED. TIIOIIGH who kept a public-house and OOfild ""1!tiI k some English now appeared on the ne&m Hi-L ,Very anxious to secure me as guest for the jotifw ahout 9.30, after dark, I came to my ^clt 'f8 en<l' finishing the last half mile on a 8eiJl0fer, in a friendly cart. I thought ra,ther tender on your toes," was the his cu reroark when I accepted the invitation to JloteJ ar ?^' He directed me to the Black Lion W I found very comfortable qaarters by ni?ht, feeling that I had well earned them walk of nearly twenty-three miles. The aU was well, was to find me in North v-! somewhere near the real ffiogg tains. (To U fionthmd.)

BRIDGEND NOTES.

EAST ABERTHAW AND ST. ATHAN…

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TYNEWYDD ECHOES.

EGLWYSILAN SCHOOL BOARD.

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CORRESPONDENCE.

ASSAULT UPON A nHYNCETIIIN…

BLACK MILL JOTTINGS.

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