The Brecon County Times Neath Gazette and General Advertiser for the Counties of Brecon Carmarthen Radnor Monmouth Glamorgan Cardigan Montgomery Hereford

BRECON FIFTY YEARS AGO. The following description of Brecon and places in its neighbourhood is taken from a publication called Nicholson's Cambrian Travellers' Guide," published in the year 1813, and the interesting information contained therein is a sufficient apology for bringing it under the notice of our readers Brecon, or Brecknock, (from Brechan, the son of Aulach, who succeeded to possess this district in right of his mother Marchell, daughter and heir of King Teudric or Theodric,) is an archdeaconry in the diocese of St. David's, containing the whole of Brecknockshire and Radnorshire, except the parishes Knighton, Norton, Presteigne, Old and New Radnor, and a small part of the Gascob in the latter county, two parishes in Montgomeryshire, seven in Here- fordshire, and two in Monmoutbshire. It consists of seven deaneries and 124 parishes. The archdeacon has a house in St. David's, and a stall in the choir of the cathedral; possesses the great tithes of the parish of that name near Brecon, of which he is patron of the tithes of Llandew, of the hamlet of Penpont, in the parish of Llanspyddid, in the same county; of the tithes of the parish of Llowes, in Radnorshire, of which living he is likewise patron, and of the tithes of the parishes of Llanstephan and Llanddewi fach he has a tenement in right of his dignity in the parishes of Llanrhian and Mathrey, in Pembrokeshire, called Torrbant, consisting of upwards of 320 acres of land. In the centre o the county, but at the southern extremity of the hundred of Merthyr, upon a gentle swell, verlooking a fertile and highly cultivated valley, is stationed the town of Brecon, upon the conflux of the rivers Usk and Honddu, hence in British it is called Aberhonddu. It was not considered as a principal town till the Norman invasion, and it is certain that it owes its consequence to the demol tion of Caerbannau and the building of the castle by Bernard Newmarch. It does not appear, notwithstanding Camden's asser- tion to the contrary, to have been inhabited by the Romans, since no traces of this people have ever been apparent, either in coins, stones, bricks, or inscriptions, though many such have been discovered at Caerbannau and at Llanfrynach. The building of Brecon cannot be fairly attributed to an earlier period than 1092. It appears from Leland that the castle was not completed till the year 1094. The wall was perfect in Speed's time, and until the demolition of the castle in the time of Charles 1. Its track is still perfectly visible, and some parts of it are yet, standing On the outward side was a deep foss or ditch, which is supposed to have been occa- sionally filled with water. On this wall were ten towers, of irregular constructions. The entrances into the town were through five gates the two first seem entrances to the Priory, of which there are some remains. On the south-east Brecon is almost overlooked by a hill called Slwch Tump Northward we have another eminence, called Pen y crug, shelving down gradually to Brecon, so that a traveller from Hay, Battle, or Builtb, finds the town below him. On the south side is Cantreff, and a wooded brow, called Clos y coed. The castle of Brecknock is one of the earliest structures of this description in this country. It was built by Bernard Newmarch, about the year 1094. The outward walls, which are thicker than those of the Roman camp at Gaer, still continue to display the earliest style of Norman architecture. Though the interior of the residence of Bernard Newmarch must be left to conjecture, the form of it remains perfectly visible it was an oblong square, 100 yards by 80. On the east and south the Honddu washed its walls. Hugh Thomas tells us that at each corner of what he calls the square of this building, were two watch towers. The ruins of two of them still remain at the south angle, and upon an elevated and artificial mound, to the north-east, is the keep. Within this fortress, Stafford, duke of Buckingham, and Morton, bishop of Ely, concerted the union of the houses of York and Lancaster, in consequence of which Henry VII was indebted for his station upon the throne of England. Since the confinement of bishop Morton it has been called Ely tower. The ground on this side is higher than the site of the castle, which made it more assailable on the north. There were here, therefore, in addition to the deep ravine or mote before noticed, two additional fosses, occasionally filled from Maenday well. The principal entrance was to the west, opposite to which was another called the Postern, corrupted into Postrwm. Leading from the gate a few yards east, is a stone bridge of two arches, formerly a drawbridge. -According to Speed's map there was another of the same description upon the west side over the mote between the castle and the green mound called Baili glas, where the courts leet and courts baron of the lords of Brecknock were held of old. According to a survey of the manor of Brecknock, taken 13 Henry VIII (see Jones's History, v. ii, p. 804), the goodly hall with its costly pendants does not exist. A tennis-court is formed in one of the angles an under-shot water-wheel adjoins the site. The place of the chapel of Saint Nicholas is also obliterated. The castle continued not only to be the seat for the administration of public justice under the lords marchers, but after its forfeiture to the Crown, and until its demolition in the time of Charles I, the receipt of the king's audit and the common gaol for the county. A county gaol and house of correction has been constructed on the Howardian plan, but so miserably finished that it was deemed insecure, and a strong wall has circumvironed the whole area of the prison and former wall. Besides this gaol the corporation have one adjoining Struet gate, but it is seldom used; they had also a cell near the bridge, over the river Usk, adjoining the gate. The last was taken down in 1776. The Town-hall was built in 1770 it has a cellar or vault below it. where leather and other merchandise are preserved, above which is the market-house, where hops, butter, and other articles, are sold at fairs and markets. On the first floor is a room for the administration of justice, where the great sessions, quarter sessions, and the county and town courts are held. At the end is a jury room. The garret was formerly a receptacle for military stores but in 1805 government erected a handsome depot for arms and ammunition. Exclusive of the town courts, held on Mondays and Thursdays, weekly, they sometimes hold a court of quarter sessions, in which the recorder presides, and tries criminals. The arsenal at Brecon is of brick, built very sub- stantially, yet finished with elegance. It is situated by the road side on the east entrance, in that part of the town called Watton, forming a beautiful and interesting object. The main building is 99 feet in length by 35 in breadth, and two stories high, the lower story, 17 feet high, consists of the armoury, 75 feet by 30, fitted up with racks for the reception of 15,000 muskets, bayonets, &c, and 1,500 swords also a cornice of projection, appropriated for pistols, after the manner of the new armoury in the tower. In this street, at a public house, called the Shoulder of Mutton, Mrs. Siddons was born. The register of her baptism is dated July 14, 1755. The borough is governed by 19 capital and other burgesses 15 of whom, including the bailiff, recorder, and aldermen, are common council men the cham- berlains are also burgesses, and have votes in the election of a representative in Parliament. Its po- pulation accordingtothe latest accounts amounts to 540 houses, containing 2,576 inhabitants. Inns.—The Golden Lion, and Swan. Dr. Mavor thought the former negligently if not uncivilly conducted. Within this borough are two parish churches,St. John's and St. David's, and, within the circuit of the town wall, a third, called St. Mary's. St. John the Evangelist's, formerly from its cross aisles or chapels, called ecclesiasanctce crucis, and sometimes the church of the holy rood, "standeth," as Leland says, north without the waulle upon the ripe of Honddye." It was either entirely erected or considerably improved by Bernard Newmarch. It has undergone many alteratians since that time, and presents a motley appearance; the prevailing features are, however, gothic. It stands upon an eminence formerly surrounded by a lofty wall, part of which remains on th west side. Of the Priory, or Monastery, there are now no remains, save the ont- ward parapet wall, which is very perfect; it stands mar the entrance into the church-yard from the north-west to the foot of the bridge over the Honddu on the south. Near the western pine end of the church is a beautiful circular stone font of the Saxon age. The naive is very lofty, and has been lately ceiled but unfortunately the same decorating and beautifying hour swept away the venerable carved screens from the tradesmen's aisles. The west end of the fabric is intersected by two cross aisles, called "The Chapel of the Men of Battle," and "The Cap- pel Cochiaid," Norman, or Red-haired Men's Chapel," divided Jfrom the vicar's chapel (formerly the Havard's) of somewhat larger dimensions. The Red-haired Men's Chapel is on the south side of the naive on the east side is a small recess used as a burying-place by the family of Hughes of Brecon and Tregunter. Still further east are the ruins of a Vestry-room. The steeple is placed immediately over the intersection of this cross, and covers an area of 10 square yards within the walls. It is said to be considerably higher than St. Mary's it contains six bells, and formerly could be entered by galleries from all parts of the church. The chancel is divided from the body of the church by a gallery, formerly the rood loft. Innovation has not effaced entirely the ancient magnificence of this church. On each side are seen three rows of light, beautifully clustered columns, broken off just above the corbels. The tombs in this church are numerous, their inscriptions frequently long, and not remarkable. The names commemorated and situations of the tombs must here suffice. The tomb of Wafers and his lady is sur- rounded with rails, on the left entering Cappel y Cochiaid, on which nothing remains, save the altar part, on which lie two recumbent figures in stone. The tombs of Reginald de Breos and Mer- edith Thomas, mentioned by Churchyard, do not exist. John Toweas, of Brecon, April 10, 1587, mutilated and defaced Matthew Towers, nephew of the foregoing, June 1, 1614 near the former, Catherine, daughter of William Awbrey, wife of Matthew Towers, July 27, 1683. Within the com- munion rails, upon a board, Mrs. Elizabeth Berriug- ton, wife of the Right Worshipful Humphrey, of Bishopstone, Herefordshire, daughter of the Right Worshipful Thomas Price, of the Priorie of Breck- nock, February 14, 1626. Below this board to the south-west, are the outlines of the figures on the gravestone of her uncle, Richard Price, and his lady before mentioned. The next was an altar-piece,, and placed in the wall over the alter; of high antiquity the figures are in alto relievo, and repre- sent the ascension. Below the communion, Edward 'C' e Games, Esq., of Newton, Septerober9, 1564 S,)ii, b- ward, Frances Owen, daughter of Evan Owen, 1692; Frances Williams, of Talr-y, Carmarthenshire, 1731, aged 45. On the south-w<st, wall, Frarces Owen and Susannah Brewster, 1719 he'o A,, Sarah, wife of Hugh Powell, late of Cwrndvn, 1687, set. 76; under a flat stone beneath Rees Powell, rector of Aberedw, Radnorshire, May 5,1687, set. 55 This pious and good man bequeathed X20 annually, for placing out poor children, natives of the town, to trades; £10 to enable such children to set up in their trades 220 for placing out children in various other parishes, and £ 10 for seeing them up in trades. and several other similar donations. Descending from the communion rails, and passing the monu- ment of Sir David Williams, two stones are placed against the wall, removed upon the interment of a Mrs. Arabella Nixon, who died at the Lion inn, and left her property to her man and maid servant. On the first is an inscription to Morgan Llewellyn of Ystrafcdlte; the other bears the name of William Morgan, Esq.; both are without dates. Nearly opposite, but further north, is a Welsh inscription to the memory of one of the Lewises, of Frwdgrech, 1580. Near him is the grave of his eldest son by his second wife, Edward Lewis, of this town, who married Annie, daughter of John Nott, of Shelsley, Worcestershire; he died September 27, 1654. Near the north wall, Lancelet James, who died August 18, 1716, se. 23 upon another stone, Lancelot Morgan, town clerk, March 24, 1753, set. 29 and Mary his wife, daughter of Meredith James near him, Rebecca James, wife of the aforesaid Meredith James, January 3, 1720, set. 56. She was mother of Lan- celot James, and one of the daughters of Lancelot Herbert, otherwise Harbottle, who died in 1691. On the north wall, further West than the burial place of the Herberts and Jameses, is a marble monument to Mrs. Mary Williams, daughter of David Williams, of Brecon, 1794, set. 84; below her, further south, Mary, wife of Thomas Jones, of Tredustan, Esq., 1725 also Annie, wife first of Thomas Boulcott, and secondly of Jehosophat Jones 1723, set.71 At some distance near the middle of the chancel, are interred some of the Gwynnes, of Abercraaf, who settled at Newton, Pontwilym, and Aber- cynrig, with their children. At some little dis- tance, are deposited the Williames of Lower Gludy. In Cappel y Cochiaid occur inscriptions bearing the following names :-J ohn Price, September 23, 1719, aged 74, and Ann, his wife, August 10, 1699, aged 43; Jenkin Price, barrister-at-law, April 26, 1735, aged 54; Walter Jeffreys, May 19, 1748, aged 71, and Magdalen, his wife, June 14, 1734, aged 50; William Phillips, Esq., recorder, January 18, 1721, aged 58 on the ground several to the Hugheses Mary Powel, October 29, 1701; Thomas Powel, 1690; James Powel, 1670; Richard Jones, 1679; Mary, wife of John Waters, 1682; Thomas Bannister, 1737; John Davies, September 24, 1658; Richard Jones, 1694; David Jones, 1708, aged 30; Morgan Davies, March 18, 1727; Hoel Tho. Morgan, December 28, 1623. On the wall, near the Hughes's Chapel Rice Penrv, December 29. 1683; Meredith Penry, A.M., vicar of Brecon, 1676; Meredith Penry, May 6, 1799, aged 84; Tho. Philips, October 18, 1761, aged 50, and Priscilla, his wife, 1787, aged 83 Anne Watkins, their daughter, 1793, aged 53; Frances, wife of Thomas Philips, March 22, 1757; these were of the Pont-y-wal family; John Jeffrey, January 22. 1718; Elizabeth Lloyd, 1732, and her children. Upon the ground in Hughes' bury- ing place Henrietta Wellington, daughter of Oeorge Wellington, of Haywood, Herefordshire, 1755 Mary Hughes, wife of Richard Hughes, of Brecon, 25th January, 1718. A monument affixed to the wall is in memory of Richard Hughes, June 13, 1739, his wife and children; another to the memory of Amelia Maria Hughes, daughter of Sam. Hughes, Esq June 9, 1794, and his wife. A hatch- ment on the interment of Sam. Hughes is over a door, now stopped up. The Chapel of the Men of Battle appears little better than a barn, b h.g only an entrance to the church. The floor is of earth, except where it is covered with tombstones. Just below the door lies Mary, daughter of Evan David, and wife of Roger Jeffreys, of Brecon, 1695, and children; another, with a cross flory, to D»vid ap Jeuan Thomas of Battle, Oct. 2,1674 under a stone nearly square, lies Maud, wife of Meredith Thomas Richard, 1600; in the middle are tombstones to the memory of Thomas Mitchel, of Battle, Jan. 21, 1805, and his father near this are inscriptions to the Browns of Brecon. This chapel is divided from the Havard's by a wooden partition. The arms of Havard's, three bull's heads caboched, with the motto Hope in God," are still seen upon the eastern pine end. Upon the wall next the chancel is a marble monument to Joanna, daughter of Edw. Hughes, of Brecon, 1741. She intermarried with Thomas Rodd, of Marden, Herefordshire. She left 10s. annually towards the repairs of Cappel yr Havardiad, and 20s. annually to four poor widows. That tenement is now in the possession of Mr. Allen, of Crescelly, in Pembrokeshire. An inscription to Lewis Havard has been preserved by Mr. Townsend, now nearly obliterated. "Hir sepulcus est Idovicus Havarde Generosus, qui obyt occodecimo die mensis Octobris, 1569 cujus anime propitietur Deus." Another Lewis Havard, of Blonsenni, lies buried here, 1723, and his father-in-law, Wm. Awbrey, of Brecon, 1704; further northward Meredith Watkin, glover. Near the north wall, Elizabeth Harris, wife of Wal:er Harris, of Gloucester, 1st Jan., 1691 a marble monument to Gabriel Powell, of Pennant, November 5, 1735; below is a tombstone to John Robinson, of Ludlow. In the middle of the chapel are gravestones to the memory of the Prossers, mercers and saddlers of this town. Near the black marble tombstone, John Jeffreys, mercer, 1604; near him David Vaughan, town clerk, 1686 further west a Roger Thomas, 1685. Eastward is an inscription to Jenett Havard, daughter of Thomas Havard, of Carn y Castell, in the parish of Talgarth. One or two persons of the name of Harper, of the Lion Inn, lie here, and the late wife of Mr. Longfellow, near whom lies, to the soutb, Ann, daughter to Watkin Thomas William, who married Evan John Goch, 1623 another stone Gab. Jeffreys, 1766, and his wife. Upon the east pine and wall, Thomas Charles, of Brecon, gent., 1741 upon the same wall, north, a marble monu- ment, to Esther Elliston, of London, spinster, 1737 another, nearer the churchyard, to Henry Williams, 1736, and other relations, including Thomas Wil- liams, clerk, vicar of Brecon, 1787. Within iron railing, Richard Davies, clerk, B.D., archdeacon of St. David's and vicar of Brecon, 1768, and Richard Davies, clerk, A.M., son and successor to Mr. Wil- liams, 1804. In a niche under an arch there are some remains of a recumbent effigy in stone. In the church the seats cover a great number of the tomb- stones. Proceeding to the west, and entering into the chancel, lies John William Skeel, 1680 near this stone is another to William John William Skwl, 1685 next, Lleiki, daughter of Thomas Davies, 1675 middle of the aisle, Evan ap Richard, tanner, 1507 under the pulpit, Thomas ap Jennn, 1682, and Thomas Williams, 1699 near these, Jane, daughter of Thomas Boulcott, Esq., wife of Walters, 1631; Roderick Prytherch, of Llanspyddid, 1751. Upon the wall near the pulpit are two cenotaphs one to the memory of Charles Powel and his wife, 1740 the other to Margaret, their daughter, 1774. Nearly opposite is a bedaubed stone monument, with the arms of Vaughan, and thus inscribed Ms. Danielis Price, vir ob pietatem et ecclesice amorem animique candorem et perspicacitatem conspicui cui adfuit vultu gravitas, in factis oequitas, in moribus simplicitas. In tota vita integritas. Qui vivere sic noverit non ignoravit mori. Liberos procreavit 15, superstites reliquit 10. Viz natos 4, natas 6 ex uxore Elizabetha, Gulielmi Awbrey filia. Obiit die 22 Decembris, Anno Dom. 1716, cetat. siico 52" Not far from the graves of part of the Cefnbrith family lie three or four of the Vaughans of Brecon. Fur- ther west are two Welsh stanzas, vilely spelt upon the grave of Evan, Peter, and Thomas Philips. Near them is an eulogy more valuable than the laboured epitaphs upon the monuments of the great because it is a short and simple annal: In memory of Isabella Powell, who, though the daughter and only child of John Powell, doctor of physic, by the vicissitude of human affairs, was obliged to have recourse to servitude for a maintenance, in which station she behaved with such probity and integrity, as gained her the regard and esteem of all who knew her, and having lived respected, she died regretted, on the 4th day of February, 1757." The names of Tobias Williams, Esq., 1663, and Henry Parry, vintner, 1653, appear. The Weavers and Tuckers' Chapel contains but few tombs, and those are unimportant. The Taylors and Corvizors' Chap, I is so covered with dirt, diet, and rubbi-b. that none of the inscriptions are visible. In a niche is a stone effigy long known by the name of Mary Drell. Dr. Milner ,ays the tonsure is that of a lay- man. Within the r«i's, where the font is placed, Anne, the wife of William Gunter, 1777; further north a tomb to Thf,m,s Williams, 1676 George Morgan, Esq., 1788 the Rev. David Griffiths, vicar of Merthyr, and master of the school at Br, c(,,), 1769, and his wife, 1792. e churchyard affords little that can interest an intelligent observer. The benefactions to this priory have been rumerous. Bishop Tan tie;- has given in his "Notitia a list, beginning with Walter, who was appointed, about 1095, by Bernard Newmwrch, the founder Robert Salder completes the list. He surrendered the priory to Henry VIII in 1537. at which time the possessions were valued at £ 112 14s. 2d., according to Dugdale. The Chapel of St. F!yr< d. near S -lch, being- parcel nf the possession of St. John's, fell down about the latter end of the 17th century, and is now only a confused heap of stones besides, there was also an hospitium with a chapel annexed, adjoining an enclosure converted to a publ c cod wharf, mar the Watton turnpike the chapel stood where the Spital-barn has been placed. The co'lege, once a Dominican Priory, stands at the east end of the town, and appears as old as the time of Bernard rip Newmarch, by whom it is said to have been founded. Part of an old gate- way, built in a quadrangular form, still remains also a cloister, with the refectory of St. Mary's Church, and the ancient choir, and naive, or shell for burying. Henry VIII. converted this place into a college, called College of Christ, Brecknoek," and joined to it the college of Abergelly. This institution still remains, consisting of the bishop of St. David, who presides as dean, a precentor, trea- surer, chancellor, and nineteen other prebendaries. The Church of St. Mary. according to a document of Mr. Carfe's papers in the Bodhian, appears to have been built as early as the latter end of the 12th, or beginning of the following century, hut it cannot be concluded that the present structure is of that early date. The eastern window of the chancel is the Gothic of the middle age, and the prevailing style of its architecture indicates that it was not erected till after the year 1515. None of its deco- rations or pillars have the slightest pretensions to antiquity. Not a single monument, figure or inscrip- tion is preserved within its walls. The present steeple, which is abont 90 feet in height, was built in the reign of Henry VIII. it has a peal of eight bells, cast by RVudhall, of Glocester. The body of the church consists of two aisles, and on the north- east is the shoemaker's chapel, from which is a door into the vestry, but since the erection of houses close to the windows both these places are become so dark that want of room only compels the inhabitants to occupy the seats in one, but the business usually transacted in the other is now transferred to the Town-hall. The principal entrance is under part of the gallery, in which an organ wa" placed about the year 1794. The Consistory Court for the arch- deaconry is held once a month, under the southern door. This part of the building was divided from the other, where divine service was performed, by a slight partition and railing, about the year 1680. In 1805 it was repaired and improved, the aisles boarded, and two buzaelos placed there, principally at the expense of the Rev. Richard Davies, arch- deacon of Brecon, who also erected several new seats in the chancel. No persons have been buried here within the memory of man, nor does tradition recognise an interment within this fabric, yet during these alterations two stones were remored, evidently sepulchral. In the wall of the north aile are some marble tablets, upon which are inscribed the Lord's Prayer, the Apostle's Creed, and the Ten Command- ments, presented by Mr. Walker, of Newton and upon the wall of the chance! are two tables record- ing all the benefactions to this town, as well as the parish of St. John's, except .Mrs. Rood's. Of this establishment the unfortunate Dr. Dodd was a pre- bend, who has recorded his connection with this place in the following beautiful lines, entitled PIOUS MEMORY. "Whither away, fair maid," I cried, As on old Brecknock's bank I lay, When passing by me I espied A modest maid in neat array. Upon her red but well-turn'd arm A little wicker basket hung, With flowers of various hues replete, And branches ever-green and young. The fragrant bay, the mournful yew, The cypress, and the box were there, The daisy pied, the violet blue, The red pink, and the primrose fair. And why that basket on your arm, With all those fragrant sweets supplied ?" With blushing look and pensive air, And voice of meekness soft she sigh'd: "To yonder churchyard do I haste, To dress the grave where Henry sleeps No maid a truer lover bless'd, By maid more faithful lover weeps. Stern death forbade us to unite, And cut him down with ruthless blow, And now I speed to deck his grave, As 'tis our weekly wont to do." The melancholy custom pleas'd, She left me wrapp'd in pensive thought, Ideas sad, but soothing, rose, When my slow steps the churchyard sought. There kneeling on her Henry's grave, Adorn'd with all her basket's store, The rural maiden sighing hung, Her eyes with tender tears ran o'er! She rais'd those eyes so full of tears, Which now and then stole down her cheek, And much to Heav'n she would have spoke, But sorrow would not let her speak. Yet tho' her thoughts could find no vent, There's One who reads her honest mind, And the true heart to Him devote, Shall ample satisfaction find. Then, gentle maid do not fear, Again thy Henry shalt thou meet, Till then thy tender task pursue, And strew thy greens and flowers so sweet; And you, whom all around I see, The same dear mournful task employ,- Ye parents, children, husbands, wives, The melancholy task enjoy ? Oh 'tis delicious to maintain, Of friends deceas'd a true respect; Then bring me flow'rets, bring me greens, Straight shall my parents' graves be decl, d; And many a friend's (whom faithful love Still keeps alive within my breast) Luxuriantly sad I'll see With choicest garlands weekly drest! Come then, the wicker basket bring, Come, memory, and with me go Each lovely flower that breathes the spring, Affection's gentle hand shall strew. A tender tear of soothing woe, Shall o'er the graves spontaneous fall, While Heav'n the hearts still wish shall hear, And to each other grant us all ( To be continued.)