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HINTS FOR ALLOTMENT HOLDERS. BY SPADE-WORKER. GETTING THE GROUND READY. I I have had numerous questions lately from readers who have only a moderate depth of soil to deal with, say, from Sin. to lOin. underneath that is clay or very clayey loam. They are in doubt as to the correct method, of procedure. It is obvious to those who have had any experience in J vegetable cultivation that first-class crops cannot be obtained from shallow land, and means ought to be taken to increase the depth of fertile soil. This is best accom- 1 plished by the method known as half-! trenching or bastard trenching. Perhaps I should say that it is most conveniently ac- complished by this practice, for the man' who is considered to be the grower of the finest vegetables in the country makes a point of trenching even newly-broken ground. The clayey subsoil is brought to I the top and the upper layer is put from 2ft. to 3ft. down. The subsoil is very in- ferior stuff, but he finds that if it is ex- posed to the weather for a few months and heavily dressed with lime it will grow good crops the first season. I can endorse this opinion, for I carried out similar work last year. The advantage in subsequent seasons is that one has fertile soil to the depth of nearly 3ft. But, for ordinary purposes, half-trenching answers the purpose; it takes a long time to trench land fully Bastard, or half-trenching, is carried out in the following way: Take out a trench 2ft. wide and the depth of the spade, or one "spit." Wheel this soil to the end of the plot where the work will finish; it will be used to fill the last trench. Dig over the second spit or layer of the first trench, and. mix some manure, vegetable refuse, or leaves with it. Turn the top spit of the next lot of soil into the first trench, thus filling it and opening the second trench. The bottom of this is dug over and manured and itself is filled with the soil dug out to open the third trench. And so on to the end of the plot: This work is so important now, and many do not seem to know how it is done; therefore, I make no apology for referring to it again. PRIZEWINNING HINTS. One of this week's prizes, "1,000 Garden- ing Hints," is awarded to Mr. W. H. Cowell for his note and sketch telling and showing us how to make a useful tool for drawing seed drills: "As most allotment- holders find the work on their plots during the seed-sowing months rather a rush, especially during these times of limited leisure, any device for reducing the labour is sure to be welcomed. One of the tasks which occupies considerable time is drawing the drills in the prepared seed beds for onions, beet, carrots, parsnips, etc. This work is, however, quickly done by means of the seed-drill shown herewith. A home-made tool for making seed- drills. It is not necessary to keep to the exact dimensions given, but at least lOin. should be the space between the peg^, and the latter should be blunt ra+her than too pointed. To use the drill it is only necessary to stretch the line across the garden once for any number of drills, as the last one drawn can always be used as a guide for succeediag ones. Another excellent little device is described and illustrated by Mr. Watkins; it tells how a useful garden rake can be made very cheaply. He is awarded a prize of Garden- ing: A Complete Guide." Mr. Watkins writes: "I am sending a hint and sketch describing and illustrating a very service- able rake. It is made out of a piece of wood and nine nails (thick ones). It is very easily made by anyone. I Useful rake made with piece of wood and nine nails. The top is attached to tlie bottom piece by two screws,.so that if you want to change the nails at any time that is very easily done; it also holds the nails in position firmly. SEASONABLE ADVICE. If such boxes of soil are available, or flower-pots can be used, seeds may now be sown of broad bean, early peas and onion. The seedlings will be ready for transplanting in the open garden in April, and if the seeds are sown thinly, sturdy, healthy plants will be obtained by that time. Ad- vice is already given to plant sfcallots, potato onions, Jerusalem artichokes, etc. but, personally, I shall wait until early: February before I put anything in the ground. As the years pass I am oJ ore cer- tain that nothing is gamed, and incch may be lost, by planting when the ground i« cold and sodden. But there is every reason why you should order roots, bulbs, and seeds without delay. There will be a bipger demand than ever this spring for vegetable roots and seeds, and especially for si allots, onion sets, or small bulbs, potato onions, and potatoes, and I strongly advise all readers of this column to send off their orders as soon as possible. Stocks of some things are short, and those who delay will be left lamenting. PRIZE COMPETITION FOR ALLOT- MENT HOLDERS. Owing to the great interest which has been created by this column, I have decided to present two prizes weekly to readers sending in the best allotment hint or recipe. This week the prizes will consist of useful gardening books. All entries for this com- petition must be addressed "Spadeworker," care of Editor of this paper. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. A. G.âI should advise bastard-trenching the ground; by this means the upper spit'' or layer is transposed, and the second layer is broken up but left in the same position. If possible you should mix manure with the second spit of soil; if yard or stable manure 1 cannot be 'obtained, use leaves or garden rubbish. You will never grow good vege- tables in your soil unless you break it up to a greater depth. I Perplexed.âTo obtain legal advice you ) must consult a solicitor, but I believe the law is that one is not allowed to remove, without the landlord's consent, any peren- nial plant or shrub that is established in the soil. My belief is that the tenant has no right to remove any perennials, whether trees, vegetables, or flowering plants, unless the owner consents. Celt Pad-wholesale terms from Cambrian News," Aberystwyth

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